42—THE ESTIMATION OF CROSS-LINKS IN WOOL FROM THE EXTENT OF SWELLING IN FORMIC ACID

An account is given of the application of a gravimetric method for measuring the extent of swelling of wool in formic acid to a series of wool samples containing decreasing amounts of randomly distributed disulphide bonds. In accordance with the Flory-Rehner equation, a linear relation was observed between disulphide content and V 5/3, where V is the volume of dry wool expressed as a fraction of the volume of swollen wool. This calibration curve was then used in conjunction with swelling data to assess the number of cross-links introduced on the treatment of wool with formaldehyde and other bifunctional reagents. The method is particularly useful for ranking in order relatively high levels of cross-linking.     

49—THE EFFECT OF THE RELATIVE BEHAVIOUR OF BLEND COMPONENTS IN DETERMINING THE STRUCTURE OF WOOL CARPET YARNS

An account is given of the use of a tracer-fibre technique to investigate the configuration, the mean radial position, and the contribution to hairiness of various typical blend components in purewool carpet yarns produced on three different spinning systems. Tracer fibres selected to represent the components of an ‘unimproved’ fleece were found to behave differently during spinning, both from each other, and from tracer fibres selected from ‘improved’ fleeces. The choice of spinning method (woollen, open-end, or semi-worsted) was found to have most effect on the arrangement of fibres near the surface of the yarns.     

9—THE VALIDITY OF PRESSURE-CORING FOR ESTIMATION OF THE CONTENT OF BURR MEDIC IN WOOL BALES

Miniature wool bales of about normal packing density (approximately 16 lb/ft³ on a greasy-wool basis) were constructed from burr-free greasy wool with burr added in such a way that the true over-all burr content was known. These were sampled with a range of pressure-coring tools differing in size. Except when small coring tools were used in bales of high burr content, there was no significant difference between the mean burr content of several core samples from a miniature bale and the true over-all value for that bale. It is concluded that the act of pressure-coring does not distort the burr content of a sample and that the sample is therefore suitable for determination of clean-wool content. The between-core variance of burr content decreases as the size of coring tool increases.     

10—THE VALIDITY OF PRESSURE-CORING FOR ESTIMATION OF THE CONTENT OF NOOGOORA BURR IN WOOL BALES

Experiments are described to establish the validity of samples, for Noogoora-burr determination, taken from wool bales with pressure-coring tools. Coring tools of ¾-in. and larger diameters give unbiassed samples for the determination of both Noogoora burr and burr medic. The ½-in.-diameter tool, although previously shown to give unbiassed samples for the determination of burr medic, is subject to some bias in the sampling of bales containing Noogoora burr.     

REVISITING “SUBSISTENCE CRISES”: THE CHARACTERISTICS OF DEMOGRAPHIC CRISES IN FRANCE IN THE FIRST HALF OF THE 19TH CENTURY 1

According to traditional accounts, France underwent a serious crisis in 1846. Although it has never really been proven, it is held that the crisis was due to an enormous deficit in agricultural production. The study of price fluctuations, where price increases are taken to be proportional to production deficits, has led to the characterization of this crisis as a subsistence crisis. Certain historians have even noted strong demographic repercussions, in particular an increase in mortality. This article proposes to reassess the importance of this crisis. It also re-examines the different economic and demographic variables and the relationships between them at a national and regional level. In fact, as far as the demographics are concerned, this crisis turned out to be of a low magnitude, particularly when compared to the crises resulting from cholera in the 1830s. This first observation leads to an assessment of the real importance of production deficits. Contrary to the famines of the end of the 17th century, this crisis, although labelled a subsistence crisis, is characterized by a rather low deficit in cereal production. Substitutes such as potatoes, buckwheat, maize, and imports limited the effect of the crisis. As far as price increases are concerned, they appear to be non-proportional to production deficits: the two variables are not correlated.     

THE RÔLE OF OBJECTIVE MEASUREMENT IN THE WOOL-TEXTILE INDUSTRY

The part played by objective measurement in the wool-textile industry is discussed and it is shown how it supports the global research and development programme for wool. Objective measurement is concerned not only with raw wool but also with fibre conversion and with product and process development in such areas as yarn production, coloration, mothproofing, flame-resist processes, machine-washability, apparel products, and non-apparel products, particularly carpets.     

32—DEPOSITS IN THE ROTOR GROOVE IN OPEN-END SPINNING PART III: THE EFFECT OF YARN ROTATION IN THE PERIPHERAL-TWIST ZONE

It is shown in this paper that the direction of rotation about its own axis of the section of yarn in the peripheral-twist zone depends upon whether the yarn is withdrawn from the front or the back of the rotor, irrespective of the direction of rotation of the rotor or of the direction of twist in the yarn, and that this affects the rate of build-up of deposits in the rotor groove. Front take-off gives inward rotation, which pushes particles down the slide wall into the rotor groove, whereas back take-off gives outward rotation, which tends to keep the groove clean. The shape of the groove also affects the rate of build-up of deposits and the maximum spinning time.     

40—THE EQUILIBRIUM DISTRIBUTION OF VEGETABLE PARTICLES IN THE BEARD OF A WORSTED RECTILINEAR COMB

A mathematical model is presented that accounts for the distribution of vegetable particles in the beard of a rectilinear comb. The average advancement of a particle in a particular cross-section is dependent on the proportion of moving fibres and the time for which they move in that section.     

34—WITHDRAWAL FORCES IN THE PROCESSING OF WOOL SLIVERS: PART II: THE INFLUENCE OF VARIATIONS IN GILLING ON THE WITHDRAWAL FORCE

An account is given of the use of withdrawal-force measurements to determine the extent of fibre alignment in slivers. It is shown that a direct relation between withdrawal force and percentage noil exists. Several variations in the preparation of slivers were investigated, namely, the number of gillings, the draft during gilling, and the direction of feed.     

23—THE SETTING OF KNITTED WOOL FABRICS IN THE EXTENDED STATE

Setting treatments known to be effective for woven wool fabrics were applied to pure-wool weft-knitted fabrics while they were held in the extended state. The fabrics, of plain, interlock, and bourrelet structures, were initially wet-relaxed and conditioned before treatment. The effectiveness of the treatments was assessed by steam- and wet-relaxation techniques. For the plain fabrics, even the most successful treatments were not capable of preventing most of the set from being lost during a single mild wash. On the other hand, about half the set imparted lo the double-jersey fabrics could be retained under the same conditions. A possible explanation for this difference is advanced, this being based upon the difference in the setting behaviour of fibres in torsion and in bending.     

THE COMPOSITION OF UNSAPONIFIABLE MATTERS IN TEA SEED OIL AND THE CONTENT OF THEM DURING SEED DEVELOPMENT

The unsaponifiable matters of seed oil of Camellia sinensis L.have inhibitory effect against tumor promotion.Throughout the period of seed development,the content of oil and unsaponifiable matters were measured.The unsaponifiable matters of this oil were separated by flash chromatography into four fractions:less polar compounds,triterpene alcohols,4-methylsterols and sterols.Thin-layer chromatography on silver nitrate impregnated silica gel were used to separate triterpene acetates and steryl acetates.The β-amyrin acetates,germanicol acetate,taraxerol acetate,lupeol acetate and dammaradienyl acetate,△^7-stigmastenyl acetate and α-spinasteryl acetate were isolated and identified.α-Amyrin acetate,Φ-taraxasteryl acetate,butyrospermol acetate,tirucalla-7,24-dienyl acetate and △^7-Avenasteryl acetate were identified.     

25—COMPOSITION TOLERANCES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TWO-COMPONENT TEXTILE FABRICS PART II: THE CONTROL OF COMPOSITION VARIATION IN TEXTILE MANUFACTURE

Aspects of the manufacturing technology of two-component fabrics are considered in the light of statistical methods developed in Part I. Quite small design errors increase failure rates significantly; the nominal composition should always be based on actual analyses of intermediate and final products.

Many textile fabrics, especially those containing blended staple-fibre yarns, will not conform consistently to a specified tolerance of ±3 percentage units when tested by the analysis of a single sample or garment; a tolerance of ±5 units is technically realistic for well-made fabrics. A ±3-unit tolerance can reasonably be met by a statement of the average composition of a production batch.

It may therefore be concluded that the EEC Directives, in their mandatory specification of composition labelling, sampling, analytical methods, and tolerances, are unrealistic, since their requirements are not industrially achievable by many textile manufactures.     

9—THE CONSISTENCY OF THE VALUATIONS OF GREASY WOOL BY SIX APPRAISERS IN A WOOL-BUYING FIRM

A study is made of the consistency of six woolbuyers' estimations of type, yield, and valuation of greasy wool. Parameters for consistency and accuracy are estimated and intra-class correlation coefficients used to rank the buyers within the firm. The results indicate that changes in greasy-price limits are influenced more by changes in type appraisal than by changes in yield estimation. The method is discussed as a means of regularly checking the standard and improvement of buyers in a firm.     

BPERSIST IN THE STRATEGY OF QUALITY ANDFAMOUS BRAND TO PUSH THE DEVELOPMENT OF LEATHER INDUSTRY TO A

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31—SOME ASPECTS OF THE MECHANISM OF SEAM SLIPPAGE IN WOVEN FABRICS

A theoretical analysis (subject to some assumptions) of the principles of seam slippage in woven fabrics is presented. It is shown that the amount of seam slippage, or fabric resistance to seam slippage, depends on such factors as yarn-to-yarn friction, yarn-to-sewing-thread friction, yarn flexural rigidity, and stitch and fabric geometry.     

30—AN APPLICATION OF MINI-COMPUTERS TO THE OPTIMIZATION OF THE OPEN-END-SPINNING PROCESS PART V: THE EFFECT OF SUPPRESSING ONE DRAWFRAME PASSAGE IN THE OPEN-END PROCESSING OF ACRYLIC FIBRES

The optimization of the opening-roller speed in open-end spinning is studied for a given type of fibre, and the effect on the yarn properties of suppressing one drawframe passage is considered. The experiments carried out with acrylic fibre show the existence of an optimum zone for the speed of the opening roller and also indicate that the suppression of a drawframe passage in the normal industrial process leads to a drop in yarn quality that principally affects the regularity and influences both the tenacity and the elongation at break of the yarn to a less extent.     

48—THE EFFECTS OF OPERATING VARIABLES IN RAW-WOOL SCOURING

The effects of several operating variables on the equilibrium liquor concentrations in the first three bowls of a raw-wool scour have been quantitatively investigated by using a mathematical model to simulate the scour. A computer program has been written to solve the equations generated by the model. Included in the investigation were the effects of wool throughput, scouring efficiency, squeeze-roller performance, centrifuge throughput and performance, and flowdown rate. Conditions that would increase the amount of grease recovered are predicted.     

19—THE MEASUREMENT OF TORQUE IN CONTINUOUS-FILAMENT YARNS. PART II: THE EFFECT OF YARN TENSION

The yarn torque developed by the applied tension in the torsion-balance apparatus described in Part 1 of this series is calculated by using an expression derived in an earlier paper. Differences in shape of net-torque–twist curves are studied for nylon monofilaments and model plied yarns; these differences in shape are related to friction effects and to the mechanical properties of the constituent filaments. The torsional rigidity of the yarns is evaluated from the initial slope of the torque–twist curves for a series of nylon monofilaments; the torsional rigidity and torsional modulus are also calculated from the load–extension curve of a closely wound helical spring by employing the classical theory of elasticity.     

33—WITHDRAWAL FORCES IN THE PROCESSING OF WOOL SLIVERS: PART I: THE DETERMINATION OF WITHDRAWAL FORCE

Apparatus is described by means of which the force necessary to withdraw a tuft of fibres from a sliver inserted in pins can be measured. An account is given of the use of this apparatus in investigations of withdrawal-force variations for different sliver weights and withdrawal speeds.