37—THE SURFACE TOPOGRAPHY OF CHEMICALLY TREATED WOOL FIBRES

An account is given of experiments in which wool fibres were subjected to a large variety of chemical treatments considered as being representative of those commonly used in industrial finishing. For treatments designed to produce shrink-resistance, samples of similarly treated fabrics, subsequently subjected to a felting test (based on the International Wool Secretariat Specification 7), showed the area shrinkage to be within acceptable limits.

Qualitative scanning-electron-microscope studies revealed relatively little damage to the surface topography of wool fibres when treatments were applied at the ‘normal’ level.

When some of the treated fibres were subjected to a wash test (International Organization for Standardization No. 2), partial fragmentation of the cuticle occurred after chlorination and bleaching with hydrogen peroxide. However, little damage was observed after the wash test made on fibres treated at ‘normal’ levels.     

精纺毛织物三维印花工艺的研究

羊毛纤维具有毡缩性,而防缩剂具有防毡缩性,用防缩剂对羊毛织物印花、焙烘后再缩绒,则会得到具有立体感的绒面花型.基于这一原理,开发了三维印花毛织物.文章给出了印花浆料的配方,指出了生产过程中各工序的要点及难点,如染色后处理、印花浆料的配制、花型的选择、焙烘、缩呢及蒸呢等.     

4—FRICTIONAL AND FELTING PROPERTIES OF WOOL FIBRES TREATED WITH BENZOQUINONE

The effects of benzoquinone treatment on the frictional properties of wool fibres against a variety of surfaces are reported. The principal variations observed are explained in terms of ‘ploughing’ effects by scale tips and support the theory that the shrinkproofing properties of benzoquinone are not attributable to changes in frictional properties. The loose-wool-felting behaviour of short fibres emphasizes the importance of fibre-bending in felting and suggests that modification of this latter property may be the manner by which benzoquinone produces shrinkproofing effects.     

Investigation of effects of protease enzyme produced by Bacillus subtilis 168 E6-5 and commercial enzyme on physical properties of woolen fabric

Abstract

Wool is one of the most important fibers in textile industry, and has been commonly used for producing value added products due to its properties of lightness, warmth, softness, and smoothness. However, the special scale structure in wool cuticle can cause felting shrinkage of wool fabrics. Proteases have been widely used to modify the surface of wool to prevent wool felting, due to their ability to catalyze the hydrolysis of peptide bonds in wool scales. Although the treatment of wool with proteases was considered as an environmentally friendly technique to provide wool fabrics with shrink resistance properties, proteases exhibited low efficacy in removing the cuticle scales because of the highly cross-linked barriers. In this study, wool fabric was treated with protease enzyme obtained from novel isolated bacteria and commercial protease enzyme, and the results were compared. The tear strength, pilling changes in ΔE values, whiteness and yellowness values of wool were controlled. Results showed that treatment with Bacillus subtilis 168 E6-5 protease enzyme yielded improvements in the physical properties of wool fabric compared with commercial enzyme.     

紫外线、等离子体、酶、氧化剂处理对羊毛特性影响的研究

对国外近些年来羊毛加工技术的部分研究成果进行了综述,包括紫外线、等离子体、酶、氧化剂处理在羊毛加工上的应用,以它们对羊毛的漂白、染色、印花、防毡缩、抗起球等方面的性能和表面结构的影响。     

CF4低温等离子体处理对羊毛织物性能的影响

 为了改善羊毛织物染色性能,运用CF4低温等离子体对羊毛织物表面改性,探讨改性后织物理化性能的变化。应用SEM研究等离子体处理对织物表面形貌的影响,采用热重分析表征改性后热稳定性的变化,应用表面元素分析及红外光谱表征改性后织物表面分子结构的变化。研究结果表明,处理后织物的表面形态和化学性能都发生了变化,短时间处理能提高织物的润湿性能,延长处理时间织物表面引入了含氟基团（C-F）,可赋予织物表面较好的拒水拒油效果,改性后织物的热稳定性有所提高,染色性能得到改善。     

Innovative critical solutions in the dyeing of protein textile materials

Even though animal fibres contribute a comparatively low proportion of world fibre production, they are highly sought after and play a significant role in the luxury, high value-added end of the market. Natural protein fibres have two major classes, which may be categorized as keratin fibres (hair or fur), such as wool, cashmere, and other animal hairs, and secreted (insect) fibres with silk as the main fibre in this category. Colouration of protein fibres is characterized by many variables, each with a different effect on the final product. Indeed it is quite complicated to achieve the intended colour in the first dyeing attempt. Dyeing defects are not always due to the actual dyeing process, but may be introduced in earlier production and processing stages. This work attempts to provide a detailed review of the major issues in the dyeing of various protein textile materials in different forms such as loose fibre, yarn, fabric, and garment. An overview of different types of protein fibres is given and a summary of current industrial practices for the dyeing of protein fibres is provided followed by key variables that affect the control of colour in the dyeing of protein fibres. Key steps and critical factors involved in the production of dyed protein textile materials are described in detail and solutions to the problems that may arise at each stage are provided.     

超支化聚合物对羊毛织物的改性研究

为了改善羊毛织物的防毡缩性能,利用三羟甲基磷(THP)交联作用,将端氨基超支化聚合物(HBP-NH2)共价结合到羊毛纤维上,并测试整理后织物防毡缩、抗菌和染色性能及断裂强力变化。结果表明:单独使用超支化聚合物处理,羊毛织物的毡缩率由20.69%下降到17.31%,未达到羊毛织物防毡缩的目的;而经三羟甲基磷/超支化聚合物处理后,羊毛织物的毡缩率下降到7.43%,达到机可洗标准;且抑菌率达92.37%,低温条件下羊毛织物的染色性能也得到明显改善。     

Laccase-catalyzed in-situ dyeing of wool fabric

Compared to the traditional dyeing processes using synthetic dyes, biological dyeing method has a bright future in the textile industry due to their advantages of environmentally-friendly and milder processing conditions. Biological dyeing involves the catalysis of phenolic monomers by oxidoreductases, such as laccase, to form the colorful polymers used for dyeing. In this study, wool fabrics were treated with laccase/phenol via a one- or two-step treatment, and polymers synthesized in-situ were used to dye wool fabrics. The K/S values of the wool fabrics were evaluated under different treatment conditions, including the dosages of laccase and dye precursor, temperature, pH, mediator type, and mechanical agitation. The surface of wool fibers was examined using a scanning electron microscope (SEM). The results showed that the dyeing effect of the wool fabric samples using the single step processing method of in-situ color synthesis and fabric dyeing was better than those dyed using the two-step methods of color synthesis and fabric dyeing under the same conditions. The color depth of the dyed wool fabrics increased gradually with increasing concentration of laccase, and also depended on other process parameters, such as dosage of catechol, temperature, and pH. Moreover, addition of mediators and adjustment of mechanical agitation also improved the color depth of the wool fabrics which were dyed in-situ.     

Influence of different pretreatments on the accessibility of transglutaminase and tyrosinase to wool fibre proteins

Wool fibres are subject to a variety of industrial chemical treatments prior to finishing processes. The influence of such treatments on subsequent enzymatic treatments is still poorly characterised, but its importance is paramount to achieve maximal efficiency of enzymatic action on the fibres. The effect of such treatments on wool fibre structure and their significance on the accessibility of the enzymes transglutaminase and tyrosinase to their target amino acids within wool proteins was investigated. These enzymes are of great interest due to their potential as protein cross‐linkers and their capability to covalently graft beneficial compounds onto proteins. The accessibility of target amino acids was assessed using specific peptides tagged with fluorescent probes, followed by epifluorescence or confocal microscopy. Differences in the action of the different chemical pretreatments were found, with a treatment with permonosulphuric acid resulting in the greatest level accessibility to both enzymes, followed by chlorination and plasma treatments. This was confirmed by the increase in tensile strength of treated wool observed in the enzyme‐treated yarns. This work illustrates that the accessibility of these enzymes to their target aminoacids in solid substrates such as wool is key for their action and to achieve the desired property modifications. The techniques used have the advantage of permitting the visual monitoring of the diffusion of the active enzymes through the wool fibre structure and to relate this to the extent of enzymatic reaction. Crucially, this will allow an informed choice of the best wool processing stage at which to introduce such enzyme treatments.     

The effect of low‐temperature plasma for improving wool and chitosan‐treated wool fabric properties

In this study, plasma treatment was used to modify the surface properties of wool fabrics by partial removal of the scales and the lipid layer. The effects of low‐pressure pseudo‐discharge in oxygen gas on the dyeing properties of untreated and pretreated wool fabrics are discussed. Three dyes were used, namely acid dye, 1:2 metal complex dye and reactive dye. Different exposure times (1–5 min) of oxygenated plasma treatment were effected to improve the hydrophilicity, wettabillity, dyeability and the washing and light fastness properties of the dyed wool fabrics (which were increased by increasing the plasma exposure time). Also, the washing and light fastness properties of the chitosan‐treated wool fabrics were investigated. In addition, the presence of chitosan before or after the plasma exposure had no effect on the washing and light fastness properties of the wool fabrics.     

EEC Inter-laboratory Tests on Methods of Analysis of Fibre Mixtures — Reply

The effectiveness of a uv-curable silicone polymer as a shrinkresist treatment for wool has been evaluated. Shrinkresistance can be achieved at relatively low levels on fabrics which have been subjected to a preparatory treatment (corona discharge or chlorination), with little impairment of fabric handle. Ultra-violet radiation technology is shown to offer potential for the development of dry shrinkproofing treatments for wool.     

Natural dyeing of wool with henna and yarrow enhanced by plasma treatment and optimized with response surface methodology

Abstract

In this study, response surface methodology was employed for optimization of natural dyeing of wool with henna leaves and yarrow flowers. As natural dyes have generally low affinity towards textile fibers and need considerable amounts of metal mordants to be absorbed satisfactorily, plasma treatment was used as an environmentally friendly pretreatment to enhance the dyeability and lower the amount of mordant needed. The results showed that the color value of the samples increased by increasing the plasma treatment power, dyebath temperature, and alum mordant concentration. However, the color value was higher at lower pH values. ATR-FTIR, SEM, and AFM investigations confirmed the significant surface chemical and topographical changes of the fibers. Plasma treatment can be considered as an alternative of wet chemical treatments for surface modification of wool to improve its dyeability and reduce the need for potentially toxic metallic mordants.     

Frequency dependence of ultrasonic wool scouring

Conventional aqueous scouring of greasy wool promotes wool felting and can be energy and water intensive. Ultrasonic wool scouring could be an alternative technology to minimise the negative impact, provided that the cleaning efficiency and fibre quality are not compromised. This study examined the influence of ultrasonic irradiation frequency and ultrasonic power variations on wool scouring performance at different liquor ratios. Scoured fibre, residual ash content, residual grease content, whiteness and yellowness were evaluated. The impact of liquor degassing on wool scouring effectiveness was studied. Fibre surface damage was also assessed in this work. It was observed that while there was no significant influence of ultrasonic frequency on the whiteness or yellowness of the scoured fibres, wool scoured at frequencies of 28 kHz and 80 kHz had more grease and dirt removed than that scoured at 45 kHz. Low ultrasonic power and degassed bath liquor increased wool grease removal ability. Ultrasonic treatment caused scale cracking/peeling in some wool fibres. More severe cuticle damage was observed in fibres scoured at the lower frequency. This damage resulted in increased dye uptake by the fibres.     

壳聚糖在纺织品染整加工中的应用

介绍了壳聚糖在纺织品染色及防皱、抗静电、抗菌等功能性整理方面的应用与研究情况。棉织物和真丝织物用直接染料染色前、羊毛织物用酸性和活性染料染色前或用媒介染料染色中、涤棉和人棉织物染色前用壳聚糖处理均能提高染料上染率。经壳聚糖处理后 ,涤纶织物抗静电效果显著 ,亚麻织物、棉织物和真丝织物的弹性回复角均有提高 ,各种织物的抗菌效果明显。     

8—SOME EFFECTS OF THE COMPOSITION OF WASH LIQUORS ON THE SHRINKAGE-RESISTANCE OF POLYMER-TREATED WOOL

Some effects of the composition of wash liquors in laundering on the shrink-resist effectiveness of polymer treatments on wool are described. In addition to the known effects of the surface tension of the wash liquor, the foaming properties of the liquor are shown to be important. The effect of foam on the shrink-resist effectiveness of polymer-treated wool fabrics is greater than would be expected from previous studies on untreated and oxidatively shrink-resist-treated wool. In machines where agitation is achieved by rotation of a drum or cube, low concentrations of foam-producing surfactants inhibit felting shrinkage. In machines with submerged agitators, the presence of foaming surfactants in the liquor has little effect on felting shrinkage.     

Feltability of cashmere and other rare animal fibres and the effects of nutrition and blending with wool on cashmere feltability

Felting is a unique attribute of animal fibres used for the production of a range of industrial and apparel textiles. Felting can be an adverse attribute as a consequence of dimensional shrinkage during laundering. As there is little objective information regarding the feltability of rare animal fibres or the factors which may affect felting three investigations were undertaken. A survey (n?=?114) of the feltability of cashmere from different origins of production, cashgora, quivet, camel hair, llama, guanaco, bison wool, cow fibre and yak wool quantified the large variation between and within these fibre types. Cashmere from some origins and cashgora produced higher feltball density than the other fibres. Different nutritional management of cashmere goats (n?=?35) showed that cashmere grown by poorly fed goats had a lower propensity to felt compared with cashmere grown by better fed goats. A consequence of the progressive blending of cashmere (n?=?27) with a low propensity to felt superfine wool (high fibre curvature) increased the propensity of the blend to felt, but when the same cashmere was blended with low curvature superfine wool, there was little or no effect on feltability. The mechanisms which lead to variance in feltability of these fibres were quantified with multiple regression modelling. The mechanisms were similar to those reported for wools, namely variations in the resistance to compression, fibre curvature and mean fibre diameter, with likely effects of fibre crimp form. It is possible to source cashmere and other animal fibres which have different propensities to felt and therefore to produce textiles which are likely to have different textile properties.     

THE FASHION CONSUMER IN THE GLOBAL MARKETPLACE

Abstract

This monograph traces the various means by which flax fibre is transformed into linen yarns and fabrics. The principal innovations and developments of the past fifty years are identified. An extensive range of relevant literature is reviewed. Details are given of how the fibre is extracted from the stem of the flax plant and of the stages of yarn and fabric production. An explanation is given of how yarns are produced from short fibres (known as tow) using carding, drafting and dry spinning, and from long fibres (known as line) using hackling, drafting, doubling, roving and wet spinning in warm water. Further areas covered include yarn winding, linen weaving, dyeing and finishing. New applications for flax fibre, beyond traditional uses in apparel or furnishing fabrics, are also identified.     

Ramie fibre: part I. Chemical composition and chemical properties. A critical review of recent developments

The monograph deals with a critical review of the recent research work and development on ramie, a long vegetable bast fibre. The review is divided into two parts. Part I discusses the progress of recent work on ramie, chemical components like fibre degumming, its effects on fibre composition, chemical constituents, i.e. hemicellulose, cellulose, non-cellulosic and mineral matters. Besides various chemical properties of native and modified fibres such as accessibility, infrared, cellulose I-V, DP, grafting, cross linking and resin finishing and dyeing etc. are dealt with.     

STANDARD SIZING AND FIT TESTING APPLIED TO WOMEN'S HOSIERY

The monograph deals with a critical review of the recent research work and development on ramie, a long vegetable bast fibre. The review is divided into two parts. Part I discusses the progress of recent work on ramie, chemical components like fibre degumming, its effects on fibre composition, chemical constituents, i.e. hemicellulose, cellulose, non-cellulosic and mineral matters. Besides various chemical properties of native and modified fibres such as accessibility, infrared, cellulose I–V, DP, grafting, cross linking and resin finishing and dyeing etc. are dealt with.