Investigation of Seam Pucker in Lightweight Synthetic Fabrics as an Aesthetic Property Part II: Model Implementation Using Computer ‘Vision’

This paper reports upon the development of a new measuring procedure for seam pucker which is based on computer ‘vision’. The procedure is objective and is focused on the aesthetic property of the seam assembly. The results are presented in two parts; Part I reported on the development of a cognitive model for the measurement of seam pucker and Part II, described here, explains the model's implementation by using the computer ‘vision’ system.     

A Model of Seam Pucker and Its Applications. Part II: Experimental

Abstract

A simple model of a lockstitch seam (301) has been developed in part I, which is used to derive a measure of the severity of puckering in the seam.

This article compares the numerical assessment of pucker, derived from the model in part I, with fabric mechanics experiments and visual assessments of the phenomenon. It is shown that there is good linear correlation between the two. The model is then used to evaluate with precision, which of a selection of stiffeners, is needed to reduce pucker to an acceptable level, without overstifenning the seam. This work has implications in design and garment construction and manufacture, and in easy care garments. For the first time the idea of, precisely selecting a siffener so that it can locally to the seam alter the mechanics of the assembly, is introduced, as minimum intervention in the combat of seam puckering.     

提高免烫衬衫袖窿起皱级别的方法

免烫面料由于其特殊的整理方式,容易出现袖窿缝口缩皱的问题,严重影响了衬衣的品质和外观而达不到客户要求。以实例说明改良前后的接缝起皱级别的对比,经检测分析表明:缝纫线的调整;线迹密度的适当调节;对袖窿进行熨烫整理;对衣片含湿率进行调整等有利于提高衬衣袖窿接缝起皱级别,解决了免烫衬衣袖窿接缝起皱低的问题。     

小波分析在织物缝纫平整度客观评价中的应用

提出一种基于小波分析的缝纫平整度客观评价方法,可以克服主观评价的局限性,使得缝纫外观质量的检测更加快速、准确。在对缝纫平整度标样图像进行处理的基础上,采用二维离散小波变换提取图像高频分量中细节系数的标准差作为特征向量,其在特定的分析尺度上随缝纫平整度的恶化呈现出明显的单调递增趋势。通过计算平整度评估因子（EK）确定了最佳小波和最佳小波分析尺度,从而建立了缝纫平整度等级的客观评判模型。采用棉织物的缝纫样本检验了模型,结果表明主客观评价的吻合度达到85%以上,由此验证了该方法的可行性。     

超声波缝合涤纶织物缝口的力学性能

通过定速拉伸超声波缝合涤纶织物缝口,比较不同因素组合下的缝口力学性能,揭示超声波花轮压力、花轮速度、功率与织物缝口力学性能的关系。研究表明：超声波花轮压力越大,花轮输送速度越小,超声波功率越大,织物缝口的力学性能越好。缝口断裂强度、断裂伸长率、断裂功与提出的超声波缝合影响因子（压力×功率/速度）呈极显著的正线性相关,该影响因子可以用来表征超声波缝合织物缝口的力学性能,运用该影响因子可简化超声波缝纫机的调节操作过程。     

The Characterisation of the Static and Dynamic Drape of Fabrics

This paper discusses and establishes the static and dynamic drape of fabrics as an aesthetic property. A new algorithm is introduced, which defines more precisely the drapability of a given fabric. Experimental results show that it is more accurate to describe the different types of fabric-drape performance by using a feature vector, and this is found to be in good agreement with subjective assessment. A computer-based vision system, the Static- and Dynamic-drape-measurement System (M³), was developed and made possible the application of the new algorithm to actual fabric measurement. The results show agreement between aesthetic judgement and subjective assessment, and consequently fabric drape is standardised into four drape grades, ranging from high to low. The M³ is able to relate fabric drape with mechanical properties, simulating intelligence or expert knowledge when property change is needed for achieving a required drape performance.     

Investigating the relation of fabric’s buckling behaviour and tension seam pucker formation

In the present study, the formation of tension seam pucker is considered in more details in order to compute the thread compression load in terms of sewing thread tension. To this end, the stitch formation in the fabric is simplified. The exerted thread compression force on the fabric in each stitch is calculated according to the thread tension, its mechanical properties and the cycles that the sewing thread suffers before shaping the stitch. In addition, the fabrics properties that are effective on the seam puckering are measured and their relation with the applied load on the fabrics is investigated. This process is carried out for 12 various fabrics which can be classified into three groups according to the application in the clothing. Outcomes indicated that it is possible to compute the compression force on the fabric in each stitch in every sewing tension level that is useful to predict the seam puckering formation in fabrics with known mechanical properties. The results of this research help to analyse the compression load on the fabric based on sewing thread tension.     

基于灰色模型的服装面料缝纫皱缩预测

对影响缝纫质量的重要指标——缝纫皱缩的预测方法进行探讨。选择16种典型面料,在FAST织物风格实验基础上,运用主成分分析法将面料的各项力学性能指标综合为3个主成分分量。通过缝纫实验,运用主客观方法评价织物缝纫后的外观质量,并借助于灰色模型研究以面料性能主成分分量为相关因素序列的缝纫皱缩预测模型,经检验,模型具有较好的精度。     

Automated assessment of textile seam quality based on surface roughness estimation

In this paper the issue of automated seam quality control is addressed, focusing especially on seam pucker evaluation. Currently this task is accomplished by human experts considering five grades of quality. The proposed method estimates surface roughness of seam specimens producing robust and efficient novel features highly correlated to quality grades (QGs). At the initial stage, oblique illumination is applied and two-dimensional images of the specimens are acquired. The images are automatically rotated and centered in respect to the seam line and segmented into four regions. Each region produces an intensity curve through averaging, and roughness estimation is performed based on intensity mean deviation. Finally, a QG is assigned to each specimen using a k-nearest neighbor classifier (kNNc). A data set containing 211 seam specimens, created by two different kinds of fabric, has been used for testing and a correct classification rate of 81.04% has been produced matching up to the performance of human experts.     

雪纺面料性能与缝缩方向性研究

由于缺乏对同一种面料缝缩方向性变化规律的了解,对缝缩的控制常常依赖于经验,为此研究了雪纺面料在不同方向上面料性能与缝缩的变化规律。在0°~360°范围内沿面料经向每隔10°分别取样并缝制,还包括45°、135°、225°和315°斜向角度,用FAST风格仪测定不同方向面料的弯曲性能、拉伸性能、剪切性能,分别测定面料不同方向的缝缩率,并通过AATCC标准对缝缩进行主观评价。分别建立面料性能方向性与缝缩率方向性以及主观评价值之间的回归预测方程,对合理选择面料丝缕方向进行服装造型设计及制作有指导意义。     

Determination of a sewing quality index of denim fabrics

This paper reports a determination of a sewing quality index in order to assist the industry in providing quality clothing before production. The particularity of this work lies in the fact that it encompasses various sewing quality parameters (efficiency, slippage, and puckering) into a single overall quality index. Moreover, a program was investigated, to determine the quality index, so that the manufacturer has only to enter the available data. In fact, by entering the input parameters which are blend composition, seam direction, fabric mass, stitch density, and seam thread linear density, an overall quality index will be given and the seam quality as well as the defect sources will be displayed. To reach this aim, regression models were determined to predict seam quality. In this work, 18 denim fabrics were sewn with two commercial sewing threads. Their influences, ranked according to the seam quality, were also determined. The seam efficiency was calculated by determining both the seam and the fabric's tensile strength. The seam slippage was determined by calculating the difference between the elongation at the break of the seam and the elongation at the break of the fabric. Seam puckering was determined by measuring both the fabric and seam’s thickness.     

经编提花间隔汽车座椅套的接缝性能

为研究汽车座椅面料在使用过程中的接缝强力,首先根据花型各自不同特点选取了基本组织和提花组织两类共12种样品,使用针织面料生产中常用的4种接缝线迹进行试样加工,然后采用条样法分别对经纬二个方向进行接缝强力及织物自身强力的拉伸断裂测试。对试验结果进行处理分析得到了可最大程度发挥经编提花间隔织物强力优势的缝迹,并总结不同花型结构对经纬向接缝强力的影响,以期对经编提花间隔汽车座椅面料的花型设计提供参考。     

缝纫平整度客观评判模型的研究

借助于图像处理技术,提取缝纫平整度照片的图像灰度标准差、图像熵、小波变换系数标准差、小波信息熵等特征参数,建立了缝纫平整度的客观评判的概率神经网络模型.经过训练和检验,得出该模型的预测值与期望值之间的相关系数在0.99以上,说明网络模型有效,且精度高,可以用于预测未知缝纫样本的缝纫平整度等级.     

聚烯烃防皱薄膜嵌条在免烫衬衫中的应用

聚烯烃防皱薄膜嵌条能够解决免烫衬衫缝线部位起皱难题,文章根据该薄膜嵌条的特性,阐述了其理化性能,使用特点以及特殊部位的使用方法。     

Influence of some sewing parameters upon the sewing efficiency of denim fabrics

This paper reports an experimental investigation of the effect of the seam threads linear density, the stitch density and some fabric properties on the seam efficiency. Furthermore, on the basis of the seam quality parameters, regression models were determined in order to predict seam efficiency. In this work, 18 denim fabrics, having different compositions and masses, were sewn with two commercial sewing threads. Their performances, ranked according to the seam quality, were also determined. The seam efficiency was calculated by determining of the seam tensile strength and the fabric tensile strength. It was concluded that the increase in the seam thread linear density increases the seam efficiency, as well as the stitch density. However, the fabric mass has a random effect on seam efficiency. About the composition, we conclude that the seam efficiency decreases with polyester but increases with elastane. According to the seam direction, it was found that, in the weft direction, the seam efficiency was more important than in the warp direction.     

Visual aesthetic perception of handwoven cotton fabrics

We revealed the factors that govern the visual aesthetic perception of handwoven fabrics by performing two psychological experiments to determine the effects of cotton hand-spun yarn on the perceptual and cognitive responses to woven fabrics. First, a free sorting task followed by multidimensional scaling and hierarchical cluster analysis explored the effect of yarn type (hand-spun, machine-spun, and slub-yarn) on the woven fabric. Visual categorization of the fabrics depended on yarn type. Second, functional and aesthetic perceptions that produced the differences among yarn types were investigated by semantic differential scaling method that collected subjects’ ratings for the fabrics from 17 bipolar adjective pairs. Generalized linear mixed-effects modeling revealed the association between the yarn type and perception expressed by functional and aesthetic words. Visual aesthetic perception of fabrics was also affected by the consumers’ background. Our method and findings can be applied to examine the visual aesthetic of other textile products.     

The Warm-up Effect as a Means of Increasing the Discriminability of Sensory Difference Tests

A procedure involving rapid tasting of alternate samples, known as ‘warm-up,’ was used prior to difference testing and was found to improve performance on triangle tests, both for a model and a food system. Requiring judges to describe the difference during the warm-up improved performance marginally.     

压头埋头度对卷封叠接率的影响

本文通过对设定理想参数下的２０９罐型在计算机上的模拟卷封，分析了压头埋头度对卷封叠接率的影响，阐述了压头埋头度对卷封叠接率的影响趋势，并提出改变压头埋头度对改变卷封叠接率的参考数据，以及在实际生产中的指导方法     

Using face masks with spectacles versus contact lenses

PurposeTo test the hypothesis that various subjective ocular and task-related parameters associated with wearing a face mask would be better in neophyte contact lens (CL) wear compared to habitual spectacle (Sp) wear.MethodsThirty participants were randomised to continue in Sp (n = 15) or wear somofilcon A daily disposable CL (n = 15) (‘group’). A surgical face mask (Type II R) was worn for at least one hour per day on four or more days per week. After two weeks, participants completed the Quality of Life Impact of Refractive Correction Questionnaire (QIRC), a two-part face mask usability questionnaire and graded ocular-related symptoms using 0–100 visual analogue scales.ResultsThere was no difference between groups for overall QIRC score but some individual question scores reflected better quality of life in the CL: ‘outdoor activities’, ‘keep fit’ and ‘able to do things’ (all p < 0.05). Differences in favour of the CL were seen for the following in the face mask usability questionnaire: ‘breathing’, ‘heat’, ‘comfort on ears’, ‘overall comfort’, ‘walking’, ‘driving’, ‘reading’, ‘computer use’, ‘exercising’ and ‘socialising’ (all p < 0.05). Significant differences were also seen for the 0–100 VAS symptoms probing vision quality in favour of the CL: glare, distance and near vision, fogging, restricted field of view and peripheral blur.ConclusionThis work supports anecdotal reports that CL are a better vision correction option than Sp when used in conjunction with a face mask. Participants reported a range of benefits to the CL/face mask combination for vision-related symptoms, breathing and heat-related symptoms and a number of day-to-day activities including walking, driving and exercising. All of the benefits relating to the CL are likely to result in improved adherence to face mask use. Overall, the findings of this work suggest that where possible, CL should be the preferred vision correction option for people using face masks.