24—THE RELATIONS BETWEEN THE FIBRE-LENGTH PARAMETERS OBTAINED FROM THE DIGITAL FIBROGRAPH,THE COMB SORTER,AND THE SHIRLEY PHOTO-ELECTRIC STAPLER

An account is given of an investigation in which linear relations, with varying degrees of correlation, were found between the span length (S.L.) from the Digital Fibrograph and (a) the upper-half mean length, (b) the upper-quartile length, and (c) the mean fibre length, respectively, from the comb sorter, and between S.L. and the staple length determined on the Shirley Photo-electric Stapler. Correlations were dependent on the span amount in the S.L. and reached their optimum value for 30% S.L. and comb-sorter parameters, and for 2.5–10% S.L. and staple length from the Shirley Photo-electric Stapler.     

33—THE DYNAMICS OF THE FALSE-TWIST PROCESS PART I: THE PROCESS SURVEYED

The changes experienced by a yarn during its progress through the falst-twist-texturing system are examined. The relations involved, between twist, tension, and torque, and the process parameters, are shown to be those of a feedback system, and the dynamic operation of the process is considered, in a general way, by using this concept.     

34—A CONTRIBUTION TO THE STUDY OF THE INFLUENCE OF THE DESIGN OF THE YARN-WITHDRAWAL TUBE ON THE DIAMETER AND HAIRINESS OF OPEN-END-SPUN ACRYLIC-FIBRE YARNS

An investigation is reported in which factorial experiments were conducted to study the influence of the design of the yarn-withdrawal tube (or nozzle) on the diameter and hairiness of open-end-spun acrylic-fibre yarns. Three nozzle types, combined with three values of yarn linear density and five values of twist multiplier, were studied for four different (but equal-diameter) rotor types. lt is shown that the nozzle type has very little influence on yarn diameter but has a more significant effect on yarn-hairiness parameters. As the nozzle diameter increases, yarn hairiness also tends to increase, but, when the nozzle is grooved, an interaction is produced between yarn friction and the false twist generated that leads to a yarn that is less hairy when tested on the Digital ITQT Hairiness Meter. The principle of measurement of the apparatus used can lead to different results and trends when applied to this problem.     

53—THE APPLICATION OF RADIO-TELEMETRY TO THE MEASUREMENT OF WEFT TENSION DURING THE WEAVING CYCLE

A set of criteria is presented for the continuous monitoring of weft tension under dynamic weaving conditions on a conventional shuttle loom. A radio-telemetry system is developed that is designed for the direct measurement of weft tension within the shuttle itself. Components of the system that are described include the transducer, transmitter and amplifier, power supply, switchgear, and aerial; the assembly of these components within the shuttle and the relay of weft-tension traces to an external receiver and recording device are also discussed. The performance characteristics of the monitoring system are studied, and a typical trace of weft tension is related to the action of the various weaving mechanisms on a conventional loom.     

33—THE STRENGTH OF COTTON FIBRES AND THE DEGREE OF DEVELOPMENT OF THE SECONDARY WALL

A comparative analysis of two methods of determination of the maturity of cotton fibre is reported. One consisted in comparing fibres with reference drawings and the other in using the polarizing microscope. The relationship between the degree of development of the secondary wall determined by these methods and the strength of cotton as one of its most important physical properties was also taken into consideration.

The degree of correlation between the methods discussed and between the results obtained with them and the breaking load was found.

It was also ascertained that the degree of maturity was not the same throughout the length of the fibre. It increased from the base to the tip of the fibre.     

10—THE USE OF FLUORESCENT STAINS FOR THE STUDY OF THE STRUCTURE OF ANIMAL FIBRES

An account is given of the use of fluorescence microscopy for the study of the structure of various animal fibres. Sections of wool, mohair, llama, cow-tail, and horse-tail fibres, which were either untreated or had had some chemical treatment, were stained with fluorescent stains; much more detail was shown by this technique than by other staining methods. Basic dyes (acridine orange, rhodamine B, rhodamine 3GO, and thioflavine T) stained the orthocortex and acid dyes (uranin and geranine G) the paracortex.     

39—THE DETERMINATION OF THE LATERAL-COMPRESSION MODULUS OF FIBRES

An account is given of the measurement of the transverse deformation of fibres under various loads acting normal to the fibre longitudinal axis by a technique in which fibres are interleaved between glass plates in a vertical stack. Graphs of transverse load against compression are plotted for nylon, acrylic, and viscose rayon fibres under both air-dry and wet conditions.

An expression for the transverse deformation in terms of the applied load is proposed and used to calculate the lateral-compression moduli of the various fibres. The results show that, laterally, nylon fibres in both wet and dry states have the highest modulus and that acrylic fibres appear to be least affected by immersion in water. Viscose rayon fibres are most affected by water and experience a reduction in modulus by a factor of about 20.     

17—THE ORIENTATION AND MOTION OF THE WEAVING REED

Reed motion is discussed in terms of the orientation at which the reed is mounted on the sley. Looms examined suggest that normally this orientation is determined primarily by whether or not the weft-insertion element is guided within the working width and by the alignment with the warp required of any such guides during weft insertion. Reed-orientation angles are given for three looms with very different weft-insertion systems, and the method of measurement is outlined.

The relationship between the extreme reed positions is discussed, together with the reed-displacement components parallel and perpendicular to the reed face in its furthest-forward position. The orientation angle is shown to have only a modest effect on the perpendicular component and hence on the size of shed available for weft insertion.     

38—THE EFFECT OF FIBRE ARRANGEMENT ON THE INDICATION OF THE AIR-FLOW APPARATUS FOR WOOL FINENESS

The air-flow fineness apparatus, long used in the measurement of the fibre diameter of wool tops, is finding a rapidly growing application in the determination of the fineness of samples of loose wool or corings. It is known that the indication of the instrument is sensitive to the arrangement of fibres in the plug and that a calibration made by using wools in the form of tops cannot be expected to hold for the same wools in a different form.

This paper reports an investigation into the shift in instrument indication produced by subjecting tops to a variety of treatments: cutting, coring, hand- and machine-washing, and passage through the Shirley Analyser. The treatments were applied singly or in certain combinations. In all cases, the treatment produced an apparent increase in mean fibre diameter, i.e., increased air-permeability, the magnitude of the increase rising with mean diameter. The change in apparent diameter is considered to arise from an increase in pore-size distribution in the fibre mass, which is the result of disordering the fibre arrangement. Disordering can be caused by various treatments.

The effect of a steaming treatment on tops was somewhat similar to that produced by the other treatments already mentioned.

The magnitude of the apparent shift in diameter is tabulated for the important cases.     

56—THE WRINKLING BEHAVIOUR OF WOOL FABRICS: THE EFFECT OF THE STRUCTURE OF FORMALDEHYDE CONDENSATION POLYMERS ON THE STABILIZATION OF ANNEALED WOOL

An investigation is reported of the use of formaldehyde condensation polymers of aromatic amines, heterocyclic amines, and phenols to stabilize the improved wrinkle-recovery of annealed wool. These polymers were formed in situ during the annealing process.

The most effective polymer networks were those obtained from the reaction of formaldehyde with multifunctional compounds such as (i) 2,4,6-triaminopyrimidine, (ii) 2,6-diaminopyridine, (iii) 3,5-diamino-1,2,4-triazole, (iv) 1,3,5-trihydroxybenzene, (v) 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, and (vi) 2,4,6-triamino-s-triazine.     

THE UKE摩登女神

灵感源自希腊女神的富于权势与风华绝代，以简洁的风格表达出身然的美感．华丽的造型下，是年轻、鲜活而随性的韵味，同时又蕴藏着深沉的奢华。     

17—THE PREDICTION OF THE COMMERCIAL CARBONIZING YIELD OF WOOL

An investigation is reported in which the core-test yield was compared with the achieved mill yield for 90 commercial batches of Australian wool. Eight Australian mills participated in the trial. It was found that the wool base of the greasy wool (B _g%) was directly proportional to the achieved mill yield. The carbonizing loss, which was on the average 3.05% (on an oven-dry basis), was negatively correlated with the vegetable-matter base of the greasy wool (VMB _g%. The most precise prediction of the achieved mill yield was given by the equation:

ECCY% = 1.1972 B _g% + 0.1616 VMB _g% ? 5.12,

where ECCY% is the estimated commercial carbonizing yield. For the 90 batches in the trial, the standard error of the prediction was 1.95%.     

NIGEL CABOURN THE ARCHAEOLOGIST

古流行文化 灵感何来？音乐，电影，艺术等都是时尚设计师的指定答案，不过如果你问Nigel Caboum品牌的设计灵感何来，一个字：“抄”！不过复制动作背后对古着的钻研，布料上的考究，可以肯定NIGEL CABOURNR的复刻并非时下低俗的照搬，能够将数十年历史的衣物忠实呈现，将Nigel Cabourn老人家当成考古学家都不为过。     

THE VICTORIANA 轮廓时代

灵感源自维多利亚时代的细致女性风格,融合了颇具视觉冲击的现代时尚搭配,完美展现性格女性的完美特征。     

28—THE SPECIFIC HEAT OF WOOL CONTAINING AN ADDITIVE AND THE HEAT OF FUSION OF THE ABSORBED WATER

Specific-heat values are presented, in the temperature range from ?70 to 100°C, for a modified wool at various water contents. The modification was analogous to a dyeing process and involved the uptake of 14% of an additive by the wool. As for untreated wool, an endothermic peak resulting from the fusion of absorbed water was found in the range from ?30 to 0°C. The absorbed water exhibits a sub-division into freezable and non-freezable fractions. Heats of fusion of freezable absorbed water are given and compared with corresponding results for untreated wool. The integral heat of fusion at saturation water content is much less for treated than for untreated wool, as is the amount of freezable water. It appears that the treatment causes the exclusion of a considerable quantity of loosely held water. This is in accord with the concept, derived from Flory–Huggins solution theory, that one effect of the additive is to swell the wool fibres and thereby cause a greater resistance to further swelling at a given water content.     

19—THE EFFECTS OF THE CYLINDER SPEED,DRAFT, AND DELIVERY RATE IN THE JUTE BREAKER CARD

A study of the effects of the breaker-card-cylinder speed and delivery-roller speed on jute-yarn properties is reported. Though machine makers recommend a cylinder speed of 200 rev/min, a speed of 150 rev/min is shown to give a better yarn, even when the production is kept at the same level. Finer fibres absorb more power and yield yarn of higher strength. The strength realization of the fibre is also higher at a lower cylinder speed.     

49—THE EFFECT OF THE RELATIVE BEHAVIOUR OF BLEND COMPONENTS IN DETERMINING THE STRUCTURE OF WOOL CARPET YARNS

An account is given of the use of a tracer-fibre technique to investigate the configuration, the mean radial position, and the contribution to hairiness of various typical blend components in purewool carpet yarns produced on three different spinning systems. Tracer fibres selected to represent the components of an ‘unimproved’ fleece were found to behave differently during spinning, both from each other, and from tracer fibres selected from ‘improved’ fleeces. The choice of spinning method (woollen, open-end, or semi-worsted) was found to have most effect on the arrangement of fibres near the surface of the yarns.     

18—THE EFFECT OF HUMIDITY ON THE PHOTOTENDERING OF UNDYED FIBRES

Various undyed textile fibres exposed to the Light-fastness Tester under different humidity conditions are shown to lose tensile strength to different degrees; poly(vinyl alcohol) fibre, viscose, nylon, and cotton are found to be very sensitive to changes in humidity, whereas Orion acrylic fibre and Terylene polyester fibre are the least sensitive materials among those tested.     

36—THE EFFECT OF EXTRANEOUS MATTER ON THE INDICATED DIAMETER OF WOOL FIBRES AS MEASURED BY THE AIR-FLOW TECHNIQUE

The air-flow technique for the measurement of wool-fibre fineness has advantages over other methods because of its speed and convenience of testing. However, if the wool being tested is in the form of washed corings from greasy bales or corings from scoured bales rather than tops, the sample may contain impurities such as vegetable matter or sand and dust, and, although it is possible for such impurities to be removed, the treatment requires time and the continuous attention and judgement of a trained operator.

The effect of the presence of impurities on the indicated mean diameter of wool fibres is therefore a matter of some importance, and an account is given in this paper of an investigation undertaken to study this effect.

The theoretical basis of the influence of impurities on the indicated diameter is given, and it is shown that the experimental results are, in general, in agreement with the predicted values. Provided that the amount of vegetable matter present does not exceed 5% and coarse, sandy dirt is present to an amount not exceeding 1%, it is likely that the error in the indicated diameter resulting from the combined effects will fall in the range from 0 to +4.2%, i.e., the error would not exceed ±2.1% at the 95% probability level, which might be an acceptable figure for many purposes if an adjusted calibration were made.     

23—THE SETTING OF KNITTED WOOL FABRICS IN THE EXTENDED STATE

Setting treatments known to be effective for woven wool fabrics were applied to pure-wool weft-knitted fabrics while they were held in the extended state. The fabrics, of plain, interlock, and bourrelet structures, were initially wet-relaxed and conditioned before treatment. The effectiveness of the treatments was assessed by steam- and wet-relaxation techniques. For the plain fabrics, even the most successful treatments were not capable of preventing most of the set from being lost during a single mild wash. On the other hand, about half the set imparted lo the double-jersey fabrics could be retained under the same conditions. A possible explanation for this difference is advanced, this being based upon the difference in the setting behaviour of fibres in torsion and in bending.