19—THE EFFECTS OF THE CYLINDER SPEED,DRAFT, AND DELIVERY RATE IN THE JUTE BREAKER CARD

A study of the effects of the breaker-card-cylinder speed and delivery-roller speed on jute-yarn properties is reported. Though machine makers recommend a cylinder speed of 200 rev/min, a speed of 150 rev/min is shown to give a better yarn, even when the production is kept at the same level. Finer fibres absorb more power and yield yarn of higher strength. The strength realization of the fibre is also higher at a lower cylinder speed.     

46—THE GEOMETRY,DIMENSIONAL PROPERTIES,AND STABILIZATION OF THE COTTON PLAIN-JERSEY STRUCTURE

Dimensional stability in cotton plain-jersey fabrics can be attained by either mechanical-relaxation techniques (consecutive laundering and tumble-drying cycles) or chemical treatments (fabric mercerization without tension). Both treatments cause large linear-dimensional changes (shrinkage) leading to the same final stable condition, that is, to a fixed loop configuration, categorized by unique values of k _c and k _w. Although, for all practical purposes, the ultimate k-values are close enough to constants, they are not entirely independent of fabric tightness (K) and some yarn variables. They are substantially the same as the values found for completely relaxed wool fabrics that have been treated to prevent felting. Geometrical fabric thickness and bulk density are significantly dependent on fabric tightness. Photographic evidence reveals that cotton yarns, like those of wool, bulk in the fabric during relaxation (both mechanical and chemical) to cause changes in ‘cover’. It seems that the fixed loop configuration occurs when bulking leads to a completely ‘jammed’ structure.     

THE HAPPY MONK:下班以后,回家之前

在知乎上,有一个很火的问题:为什么有些人开车到家后会独自坐在车中发呆?其中一个高赞回答是:“很多时候我也不想下车,因为那是一个分界点。推开车门你就是柴米油盐、是父亲、是儿子、是老公,唯独不是你自己;在车上,想一个人静静,这个躯体属于自己。”     

33—THE DYNAMICS OF THE FALSE-TWIST PROCESS PART I: THE PROCESS SURVEYED

The changes experienced by a yarn during its progress through the falst-twist-texturing system are examined. The relations involved, between twist, tension, and torque, and the process parameters, are shown to be those of a feedback system, and the dynamic operation of the process is considered, in a general way, by using this concept.     

65—THE CSIRO PORTABLE SONIC FINENESS TESTER,MODEL B

A small air-flow fineness tester for wool, which uses the sonic system and gives a direct reading of the fibre diameter, is now available commercially. It Is intended specifically for measurements of fibre diameter in such applications as ram selection and flock-culling. The instrument is accordingly calibrated for full-length hand-carded wool and uses a 2-g test specimen. An account is given of the instrument and trials conducted with it. An accuracy of ±0.5 μm is obtained if corrections for altitude and ambient conditions are made. An interesting feature is that it has been possible to produce commercial instruments with identical calibration characteristics. This has important implications for the future of the air-flow method.     

34—A CONTRIBUTION TO THE STUDY OF THE INFLUENCE OF THE DESIGN OF THE YARN-WITHDRAWAL TUBE ON THE DIAMETER AND HAIRINESS OF OPEN-END-SPUN ACRYLIC-FIBRE YARNS

An investigation is reported in which factorial experiments were conducted to study the influence of the design of the yarn-withdrawal tube (or nozzle) on the diameter and hairiness of open-end-spun acrylic-fibre yarns. Three nozzle types, combined with three values of yarn linear density and five values of twist multiplier, were studied for four different (but equal-diameter) rotor types. lt is shown that the nozzle type has very little influence on yarn diameter but has a more significant effect on yarn-hairiness parameters. As the nozzle diameter increases, yarn hairiness also tends to increase, but, when the nozzle is grooved, an interaction is produced between yarn friction and the false twist generated that leads to a yarn that is less hairy when tested on the Digital ITQT Hairiness Meter. The principle of measurement of the apparatus used can lead to different results and trends when applied to this problem.     

16—THE PREPARATION,FINE STRUCTURE,AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF PARTLY METHYLATED COTTON FABRICS

Cotton fabric has been methylated under a variety of conditions. The extent of methylation has been shown to be dependent on the time of methylation and on the degree of swelling or disruption of structure. The latter is caused by the alkali pretreatment or by the swelling of the partly methylated cellulose. Fabric physical properties have been measured and the influence of the methylation treatment has been examined.     

53—THE APPLICATION OF RADIO-TELEMETRY TO THE MEASUREMENT OF WEFT TENSION DURING THE WEAVING CYCLE

A set of criteria is presented for the continuous monitoring of weft tension under dynamic weaving conditions on a conventional shuttle loom. A radio-telemetry system is developed that is designed for the direct measurement of weft tension within the shuttle itself. Components of the system that are described include the transducer, transmitter and amplifier, power supply, switchgear, and aerial; the assembly of these components within the shuttle and the relay of weft-tension traces to an external receiver and recording device are also discussed. The performance characteristics of the monitoring system are studied, and a typical trace of weft tension is related to the action of the various weaving mechanisms on a conventional loom.     

33—THE STRENGTH OF COTTON FIBRES AND THE DEGREE OF DEVELOPMENT OF THE SECONDARY WALL

A comparative analysis of two methods of determination of the maturity of cotton fibre is reported. One consisted in comparing fibres with reference drawings and the other in using the polarizing microscope. The relationship between the degree of development of the secondary wall determined by these methods and the strength of cotton as one of its most important physical properties was also taken into consideration.

The degree of correlation between the methods discussed and between the results obtained with them and the breaking load was found.

It was also ascertained that the degree of maturity was not the same throughout the length of the fibre. It increased from the base to the tip of the fibre.     

10—THE USE OF FLUORESCENT STAINS FOR THE STUDY OF THE STRUCTURE OF ANIMAL FIBRES

An account is given of the use of fluorescence microscopy for the study of the structure of various animal fibres. Sections of wool, mohair, llama, cow-tail, and horse-tail fibres, which were either untreated or had had some chemical treatment, were stained with fluorescent stains; much more detail was shown by this technique than by other staining methods. Basic dyes (acridine orange, rhodamine B, rhodamine 3GO, and thioflavine T) stained the orthocortex and acid dyes (uranin and geranine G) the paracortex.     

PROPOSTE 2013:科莫面料展,ALWAYS ON THE MOVE

2013年五月,在如诗如画的意大利北部湖区城市科莫,第21届PROPOSTE面料展如期举行。这也是古老经典的Erba别墅第21次承办PROPOSTE展会。正如这次的展览主题"ALWAYS ON THEMOVE"在经历了二十年的时光这个欧洲顶级的精品面料展整装再出发,继续前行在路上。     

39—THE DETERMINATION OF THE LATERAL-COMPRESSION MODULUS OF FIBRES

An account is given of the measurement of the transverse deformation of fibres under various loads acting normal to the fibre longitudinal axis by a technique in which fibres are interleaved between glass plates in a vertical stack. Graphs of transverse load against compression are plotted for nylon, acrylic, and viscose rayon fibres under both air-dry and wet conditions.

An expression for the transverse deformation in terms of the applied load is proposed and used to calculate the lateral-compression moduli of the various fibres. The results show that, laterally, nylon fibres in both wet and dry states have the highest modulus and that acrylic fibres appear to be least affected by immersion in water. Viscose rayon fibres are most affected by water and experience a reduction in modulus by a factor of about 20.     

17—THE ORIENTATION AND MOTION OF THE WEAVING REED

Reed motion is discussed in terms of the orientation at which the reed is mounted on the sley. Looms examined suggest that normally this orientation is determined primarily by whether or not the weft-insertion element is guided within the working width and by the alignment with the warp required of any such guides during weft insertion. Reed-orientation angles are given for three looms with very different weft-insertion systems, and the method of measurement is outlined.

The relationship between the extreme reed positions is discussed, together with the reed-displacement components parallel and perpendicular to the reed face in its furthest-forward position. The orientation angle is shown to have only a modest effect on the perpendicular component and hence on the size of shed available for weft insertion.     

38—THE EFFECT OF FIBRE ARRANGEMENT ON THE INDICATION OF THE AIR-FLOW APPARATUS FOR WOOL FINENESS

The air-flow fineness apparatus, long used in the measurement of the fibre diameter of wool tops, is finding a rapidly growing application in the determination of the fineness of samples of loose wool or corings. It is known that the indication of the instrument is sensitive to the arrangement of fibres in the plug and that a calibration made by using wools in the form of tops cannot be expected to hold for the same wools in a different form.

This paper reports an investigation into the shift in instrument indication produced by subjecting tops to a variety of treatments: cutting, coring, hand- and machine-washing, and passage through the Shirley Analyser. The treatments were applied singly or in certain combinations. In all cases, the treatment produced an apparent increase in mean fibre diameter, i.e., increased air-permeability, the magnitude of the increase rising with mean diameter. The change in apparent diameter is considered to arise from an increase in pore-size distribution in the fibre mass, which is the result of disordering the fibre arrangement. Disordering can be caused by various treatments.

The effect of a steaming treatment on tops was somewhat similar to that produced by the other treatments already mentioned.

The magnitude of the apparent shift in diameter is tabulated for the important cases.     

56—THE WRINKLING BEHAVIOUR OF WOOL FABRICS: THE EFFECT OF THE STRUCTURE OF FORMALDEHYDE CONDENSATION POLYMERS ON THE STABILIZATION OF ANNEALED WOOL

An investigation is reported of the use of formaldehyde condensation polymers of aromatic amines, heterocyclic amines, and phenols to stabilize the improved wrinkle-recovery of annealed wool. These polymers were formed in situ during the annealing process.

The most effective polymer networks were those obtained from the reaction of formaldehyde with multifunctional compounds such as (i) 2,4,6-triaminopyrimidine, (ii) 2,6-diaminopyridine, (iii) 3,5-diamino-1,2,4-triazole, (iv) 1,3,5-trihydroxybenzene, (v) 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, and (vi) 2,4,6-triamino-s-triazine.     

THE UKE摩登女神

灵感源自希腊女神的富于权势与风华绝代，以简洁的风格表达出身然的美感．华丽的造型下，是年轻、鲜活而随性的韵味，同时又蕴藏着深沉的奢华。     

14—COMPARISON OF THE FELTING PROPERTIES OF LOOSE WOOL FIBRES,WORSTED-SPUN YARN,AND KNITTED FABRIC

When the felting properties of loose wool, yarn, and fabric are compared, before and after chemical modification, only a poor relationship is found between the felting rates of all three assemblies. It is therefore impossible to predict the effect of a particular treatment on a fabric by applying the same conditions of treatment to the loose wool. A very detailed study of a particular treatment is necessary before loose-wool felting can be used for prediction purposes.     

17—THE PREDICTION OF THE COMMERCIAL CARBONIZING YIELD OF WOOL

An investigation is reported in which the core-test yield was compared with the achieved mill yield for 90 commercial batches of Australian wool. Eight Australian mills participated in the trial. It was found that the wool base of the greasy wool (B _g%) was directly proportional to the achieved mill yield. The carbonizing loss, which was on the average 3.05% (on an oven-dry basis), was negatively correlated with the vegetable-matter base of the greasy wool (VMB _g%. The most precise prediction of the achieved mill yield was given by the equation:

ECCY% = 1.1972 B _g% + 0.1616 VMB _g% ? 5.12,

where ECCY% is the estimated commercial carbonizing yield. For the 90 batches in the trial, the standard error of the prediction was 1.95%.     

THE RÔLE OF OBJECTIVE MEASUREMENT IN THE WOOL-TEXTILE INDUSTRY

The part played by objective measurement in the wool-textile industry is discussed and it is shown how it supports the global research and development programme for wool. Objective measurement is concerned not only with raw wool but also with fibre conversion and with product and process development in such areas as yarn production, coloration, mothproofing, flame-resist processes, machine-washability, apparel products, and non-apparel products, particularly carpets.     

NIGEL CABOURN THE ARCHAEOLOGIST

古流行文化 灵感何来？音乐，电影，艺术等都是时尚设计师的指定答案，不过如果你问Nigel Caboum品牌的设计灵感何来，一个字：“抄”！不过复制动作背后对古着的钻研，布料上的考究，可以肯定NIGEL CABOURNR的复刻并非时下低俗的照搬，能够将数十年历史的衣物忠实呈现，将Nigel Cabourn老人家当成考古学家都不为过。