计算机信息技术在纺织工业上的应用

从智能纺织材料、花色图案、颜色管理、服装CAD设计、特殊用途服装以及因特网在纺织商务上的应用六个方面，详细阐述了计算机、信息技术在纺织工业上的应用。     

Effect of location in the canopy on the colour development of three apple cultivars during growth

BACKGROUND: Homogeneity in appearance is one of the quality aspects asked for in the supply chain. Decreasing the biological variation in batches of harvested apples (cultivars Braeburn, Fuji and Gala) becomes increasingly important. Skin colour is one of the aspects that determine both optimal harvest and stage of development. Skin colour is affected by location in the canopy. The rules of development of biological variation are now established and will be used on skin colour data. RESULTS: The Minolta colour aspects a*, b* and L* measured before commercial harvest change in a sigmoidal fashion and can be analysed including the biological variation, with a logistic model in indexed nonlinear regression, obtaining explained parts of above 90%. The mechanism of colour change is not affected by state of development or location in the canopy. The location in the canopy affects the intensity of both red and green colouring compounds. The variation in colouration is not affected by the location in the canopy. CONCLUSION: The red‐coloured apple cultivar (Gala) depends more on the location in the canopy than the less‐coloured cultivars (Fuji and Braeburn). The colour development in Fuji apples is considerably slower, with a much larger variation in stage of development. The location in the canopy affects all aspects of biological variation (biological shift factor and asymptotic starting level of colouration) for all three colour aspects L*, a* and b*, but only the mean value, not the standard deviation. The biological shift factors per colour aspects are linearly related. Once induced, variation remains constant during development. Copyright © 2012 Society of Chemical Industry     

云纹半色调的圆网印花

经过对花型的难点和重点进行综合分析,合理选择分色制版参数,确定制版方法;配合使用点、线、面与半色调、云纹、泥点过渡、枯笔、撇丝等描稿技巧,使用国产镍网、感光胶以及电脑辅助设计系统,在国产印花机上进行大量实践,总结了云纹、半色调的圆网印花操作经验,已生产此类花型1000万米以上。     

Some challenges in modern hair colour formulations

Formulation of hair coloring product involves two stages, first a development of product base followed by formulation of desired shade. During that process a special consideration needs to be given to a whole range of product characteristics such as dye stability in the product medium, colour wearability on hair, light fading and finally rheology of the product. This paper reviews improvement in permanent coloring products as it relates to dye and base composition. Examples are shown where a reduction or elimination of certain dyes, m-phenylenediamine or sodium picramate, improves long term stability and product performance on hair. In cases when only reduction of the dyes was carried out, improvement in stability was achieved through their use as secondary colour contributors and not as primary ones. There are also other composition aspects that impact colour performance of the final product. For example, pH of the coloring mixture has a pronounced effect on the final colour developed in hair. It is shown that a shift in tonality caused by pH change can be predicted for finished product using a simple system composed of the main coupler-intermediate pair employed in the product. The colour response to pH change of this simple system was found to mirror that of the product. This predictability can be used as a formulation tool to develop more efficient dye systems. Effects of some functional materials on colour result such as propylene glycol, ascorbic acid or silicone are also shown.     

Review of non-enzymatic browning and antioxidant capacity in processed foods

Browning reactions represent an interesting research area for the implications in food technology, nutrition and health. The development of some non-enzymatic browning reactions, such as Maillard reaction, has been recently associated to the formation of compounds with strong antioxidant capacity. In this paper, the relation between colour changes due to non-enzymatic browning and the formation of compounds with antioxidant activity is discussed. Simple positive or complex correlation between colour and antioxidant properties can be found depending on composition and technological history of the product. Complex relations between these variables are generally obtained in multi-component and in formulated foods, where the simultaneous development of a number of reactions, interacting or prevailing Maillard reaction itself, can affect in opposite ways the overall antioxidant properties and colour of the product.     

UG二次开发技术在模具CAD系统设计中的应用

Unigraphics是一个优秀的机械CAD/CAM/CAE一体化软件,具有良好的开放性,可进行不同层次的二次开发,快速高效地实现用户特殊要求。本文结合实例,探讨了三维软件Unigraphics二次开发工具的特性及利用其进行系统开发的基本方法和关键技术,包括用户环境的设置、用户界面的设计和应用程序设计,并详细阐述了Unigraphics二次开发工具在模具CAD系统设计中的具体应用。     

针织CAD软件的应用与研究

主要研究了针织CAD软件的应用。通过对针织CAD软件的应用进行测试,分析了针织CAD软件选型的宗旨及其模板的设计思路,软件符合操作简便可视直观的特性。通过使用针织CAD软件设计工艺与手工设计工艺的对比,得到结果:针织CAD适用款式90%以上,设计效率可提高30%～70%,同时在资源共享方面加速了产品的开发、促进了生产管理,在质量控制方面提高了设计质量及产品的竞争力,最终能给企业带来良好的经济效益,达到推广运用针织CAD的目的。     

Computer-controlled Fancy Drawframe

In this paper, a novel technique of computer-aided multicolour pattern blending at the drawframe is described. None of the existing methods of blending allows on-line control of the colour composition of the sliver. In this work, the development of a drawframe that is capable of producing a ‘fancy sliver’ having a varying colour composition along its length is described. An appropriate drive mechanism for the rollers has been fabricated. The colour composition of the output sliver is controlled by varying the amount of pre-drafts given to the input slivers of different colours before they are fed into a main drafting section. This is achieved by controlling the speeds of various drafting rollers with the help of a multi-level computer-based digital control system. Software has been developed to achieve the real-time automation of the fancy drawframe for producing desired colour patterns in the sliver. The paper further discusses the quality of the sliver produced on the developed drawframe. Yarns made in this way can be used to produce unique fancy effects in woven as well as knitted fabrics.     

Colour forecasting

Abstract

The underlying principles of colour forecasting now have a history spanning a full century. This issue of Textile Progress is somewhat timely as the challenges that industry face now differ from those of the twentieth century, in particular, the increased need to address sustainability and the increased competiveness of the global marketplace. This Textile Progress provides an overview of the historical context drawing out the importance of the role of colour forecasting in the fashion and textile industries. It provides a detailed analysis of the more-recently established and establishing trend forecasting methods with a view to thinking more innovatively about the potential of colour forecasting. It investigates the effects and impact of colour and trend forecasting with a particular focus on the consequences of the process and system on business, on consumers and on the environment. In reviewing the developments in colour forecasting, we begin with the subjective techniques highlighting the strengths and weaknesses of the approaches. The more-objective characteristics that have emerged from new developments and new thinking provide a focus on the potential for greater accuracy in colour forecasting. This issue of Textile Progress explains how and why colour forecasting is an essential component of the business of making and selling fashion garments, through merchandising, retailing and fashion marketing, as well as being important in fashion design and product development processes. Developments affecting the design of colour forecasting systems are shown to draw on marketing theory, though without much consideration for the human-business interface, specifically, colour preferences, colour psychology and cultural meanings of colour. The overall aim of this Textile Progress is to assist an understanding of the colour forecasting process and its contribution to the larger trend forecasting system, and to highlight the challenges the colour forecasting sector faces for a twenty-first century fashion-business strategy. Attention is paid to the colour forecasting process and forecasting as a system, including its application in the design process and skills acquisition. The more-recently established trend forecasting methods are critically analysed, as are previously unpublished contributions to knowledge through original sets of primary research data, and finally potential improvements are suggested.     

Reducing lipid peroxidation for improving colour stability of beef and lamb: on-farm considerations

Meat colour and lipid stability are important sensory properties. Myoglobin oxidation is correlated with lipid oxidation, and one can exacerbate the occurrence of the other. Approaches to reduce both oxidative processes could focus on minimising oxidising agents in meat. In on-farm practices, dietary supplementation of antioxidants is a useful approach for improving lipid stability and then meat colour stability, and further improvement could be a combination of using hydrophobic and hydrophilic antioxidants. Genetic variations in the endogenous antioxidant systems could be identified for the development of a breeding strategy to bring a long-term benefit to the meat industry. To have a better understanding of oxidative stress and oxidation of long chain unsaturated fatty acids in live animals, the isoprostanes could be measured as an effective marker in vivo.     

Factors influencing the relationships between reducing sugars and fry colour of potato tubers of cv. Record

The influence of sampling and sugar and colour assessment on the correlation between sugar content and fry colour of potatoes was investigated in cv. Record stored at 5 and 10°C (to produce a wide range of reducing sugars), and sampled at the basal, middle and apical region of the tuber.
When colour and reducing sugars from adjacent slices were compared excellent correlations were found between these two factors whether the colour was measured objectively, as reflectance density (RD) of the ground paste from fried disks (r = 0.9550) and optical density (OD) of extract from the paste (r = 0.9507), or subjectively against IBVL colour cards (r =−0.9378). Although good correlations were found for individual scorers, using matching colour cards, significantly different regression lines were found between individuals. Reducing sugar levels were generally higher at the basal end than at the apical end. Consequently, the correlations between fry colour and reducing sugars are much poorer if reducing sugar and colour are measured on different tissue in the same tuber and the variation in colour explained by variation in reducing sugar decreased from 90 to 50%.
Sampling within tubers thus appears to be a major factor determining the ability to accurately predict fry colour from reducing sugar content. It is suggested that if potatoes for processing are to be rejected on the colour of the darkest part of a tuber then a sample core for sugars should be taken from the basal region of the tuber.     

Modelling the biological variance of the yellow aspect of Granny Smith apple colour

BACKGROUND: The yellow aspect of colour is usually not considered for produce with a green‐to‐red or a green‐to‐yellow transition upon ripening. The magnitude of change is simply too small and, additionally, masked by a large variation. The colour of ‘Granny Smith’ apples, harvested from three orchards at two stages of maturity, was measured individually using the CIE L*a*b* system during storage in a regular atmosphere at three temperatures: 1, 4 and 10 °C. A model was developed based on a simplified mechanism, consisting of two consecutive reactions, to describe the development of the apple colour expressed as b* and L* values during storage. RESULTS: Monitoring individual apples made it possible to include and describe the biological variance of colour in batches of apples and to extract information on chilling injury, as a process active at 1 °C. All variations could be attributed to a single source related to the amount of yellowing compounds at the moment of harvest, indicating differences in state of maturity between individual apples. The obtained explained part (R²_adj), using nonlinear mixed effects regression analysis was well over 90% for all data combined over more than 3000 observations. CONCLUSION: Orchard location had a slight effect on the mean initial colour value, indicating differences in development stage, most probably due to differences in assessing the harvest date. The magnitude of the variation in these colour values was, however, the same for all three orchards. The behaviour of the green colour aspect (a* value) has been reported separately, as this represents the major change in perceived colour. The changes in b* and L* values are rather small, while the biological variation between the individual fruit is at least of the same magnitude. The model presented here is, as far as known, the first model on b* and L* values for green‐coloured products. Analysing b* and L* data using this model provides additional information with respect to the stage of maturity at harvest in a batch or for an orchard of Granny Smith apples. All the variation in the yellow colour aspects could be attributed exclusively to the initial level of yellow compounds. Copyright © 2010 Society of Chemical Industry     

CAD二次开发技术(Ⅱ)

CAD技术发展至今已经日趋成熟,但国内外诸多的CAD软件大多建立在通用应用平台之上,要使CAD软件能针对专业领域方便地解决问题,必须使用CAD二次开发技术。本文叙述了现代CAD的二次开发技术,介绍了其关键技术和发展现状,对AutoCAD、pro/e、solidedge、UG、CATIA等二维和三维CAD软件的二次开发技术和工具作了介绍。     

CAD二次开发技术(Ⅰ)

CAD技术发展至今已经日趋成熟,但国内外诸多的CAD软件大多建立在通用应用平台之上,要使CAD软件能针对专业领域方便地解决问题,必须使用CAD二次开发技术。本文叙述了现代CAD的二次开发技术,介绍了其关键技术和发展现状,对AutoCAD、pro/e、solidedge、UG、CATIA等二维和三维CAD软件的二次开发技术和工具作了介绍。     

Browning of salted sun-dried fish

The lipid of traditional salted, sun-dried fish is highly susceptible to oxidation during processing and storage at tropical ambient temperatures (25–30°C), leading to browning and potential loss of nutritional and economic value of the product. Determinations of extractable fluorescence and soluble brown colour have been found to be relevant indicators of the high degree of lipid oxidation in such fish. Studies on model systems consisting of aerated fish oil and a range of components natural to fish confirmed that, at 25°C, the products of lipid oxidation reacted with phospholipids and amino acids to produce significant fluorescence. Similarly, proteins and amino acids interacted with lipid oxidation products to produce browning, although at 25°C, this only occurred in the presence of water. Temperatures above 50°C are required for the development of browning of aerated fish oil alone. The level of free amino acids in salted, sun-dried fish was found to decrease during storage which correlates with amino acid involvement in fluorescence and colour production. The fluorescence/colour can be related mechanistically to the development of lipid oxidation products and hence provides a realistic basis for their acting as indicators of extensive lipid oxidation.     

A computer based system for matching colours during the monitoring of tea fermentation

The design and development of a personal computer (PC) based system for monitoring changes in colour during the fermentation process that is used to produce tea is described. The technique is based on imaging the fermenting tea at different intervals of time and processing the colour images. A digital camera, together with a special lighting arrangement, was used to capture colour images during the fermentation process. The RGB colour model was used so that histogram dissimilarity measurements matched the colour of test images to a standard image colour. This dissimilarity measurement was represented by difference from the Manhattan norm (L1). The technique was compared with the visual methods used by expert tea tasters.     

Modelling the effect of asparaginase in reducing acrylamide formation in biscuits

The influence of asparaginase on acrylamide formation, as well as colour development, in short dough biscuits was studied. In particular, asparaginase concentration, incubation time and temperature were changed according to an experimental design. As acrylamide formation was found to vary significantly between biscuits obtained by using the same ingredients and process, a mixed effect model was used to model variation of acrylamide concentration. By contrast a fixed effect model was used for colour polynomial analysis. Within the range of study, the overall results allowed the best conditions for minimising acrylamide formation to be found. It can be suggested that acrylamide development was at a minimum at intermediate asparaginase concentrations, as well as at the lowest time and temperature of incubation. Asparaginase addition did not significantly affect the colour of the final product, although the quadratic term of the incubation temperature did slightly.     

轴向经编针织物的设计与仿真

为了解决轴向经编针织物计算机辅助设计方面的不足并且最终实现其快速设计,本文针对轴向经编针织物的CAD设计与仿真功能进行了研究。在深入了解轴向经编针织物生产工艺的基础上,采用实验的方法测量了织物结构的尺寸,建立了轴向经编针织物的CAD设计模型,其中包括地组织模型和铺纬组织模型;重点研究并建立了轴向经编针织物的纱线与线圈的二维仿真模型,以及玻璃纤维衬纱、线圈的三维仿真模型;以Visual C++ 为开发工具,并且结合OpenGL（Open Graphics Library）图形库,最终在WKCAD4.0系统中实现了轴向经编针织物的CAD设计与仿真功能。     

Colour stability and lipid oxidation of fresh beef. Development of a response surface model for predicting the effects of temperature, storage time, and modified atmosphere composition

Samples of fresh beef muscles (Longissimus dorsi) were packed under varying modified atmosphere conditions (20-80% oxygen) and stored at 2-8°C for 10 days. At 2 day intervals meat samples were analysed for surface colour and extent of lipid oxidation (TBARS). Response surface models for predicting the effects of temperature, storage time and modified atmosphere composition on colour stability and lipid oxidation were developed. Temperature and time were found to be the most important factors for retaining meat colour and minimizing lipid oxidation. However, the oxygen content also had a significant effect on both quality parameters. A stable interval of maintaining a good meat colour was found between 55 and 80% O(2). Response surface modelling was found to be very promising for modelling of chemical quality changes in meat stored under different conditions, but the large biological differences between animals may complicate the development of generally valid models.