纺织新材料及染整加工特性(上)

介绍近年来国内外开发的纺织新材料：新型天然纤维、再生纤维素纤维、再生蛋白质纤维、新型和功能性合成纤维等的基本特性;并对部分纺织新材料,如聚乳酸纤维（PLA）、竹纤维、大豆蛋白纤维和聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯（PTT）纤维的前处理、染色、热定形、后整理等关键技术作了综述分析。     

Plasma technology in wool

The textile industry processes a large quantity of fibres obtained from various animals of which wool is commercially the most important. However, it has some technical problems which affect the quality and performance of the finished products such as felting shrinkage, handle, lustre, pilling and dyeability. These problems may be attributed mainly to the presence of wool scales on the fibre surface. The scales are relatively hard and have sharp edges which are responsible for causing fibre directional movement and shrinkage during felting. Furthermore, the scales also serve as a barrier for diffusion processes which will adversely affect the sorption behaviour. In recent years, there has been an increase in the modification of wool surface scales by physical means such as mechanical, thermal and ultrasonic treatments, and chemical methods such as oxidation, reduction, enzyme and ozone treatments which can solve the felting and sorption problems to a certain extent. Hitherto, chemical treatments are still the most commonly used descaling methods in the industry.

Owing to the effect of pollution caused by various chemical treatments, physical treatments such as plasma treatment have been introduced recently as they are capable of achieving a similar descaling effect. Since the 1960s, scientists have successfully exploited plasma techniques in materials science. The plasma technologies have been fully utilised to improve the surface properties of fibres in many applications. The fibres that can be modified by plasmas include almost all kinds of fibre such as textile fibres, metallic fibres, glass fibres, carbon fibres, fabrics and other organic fibres.

Plasma-treated wool has different physical and chemical properties when compared with the untreated one. The changes in fibre properties alter the performance of the existing textile processes such as spinning, dyeing and finishing to produce a series of versatile wool products with superior quality. Therefore, the aim of this monograph is to give a critical appreciation of the latest developments of plasma treatment of wool. In this monograph, different surface treatments of wool including plasma treatment will be precisely described. Since plasma treatment can be used to alter material surfaces by removing outer layers, thus the method of generation of plasma and the reaction mechanisms between material surface and plasma species will be highlighted in this monograph. Similar to other chemical reactions, the factors such as (i) the nature of gas used, (ii) gas flow rate, (iii) system pressure and (iv) discharge power affecting the final results of plasma treatments will be described.

The main content of this monograph includes the application of plasma treatment on wool under different industrial conditions such as dyeing and shrinkproofing processing which will be reported and discussed respectively. In addition, the common analytical methods such as Scanning Electron Microscopy, X-ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy and Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy with Attenuated Total Internal Reflectance mode analysis employed for characterising the surface properties of plasma-treated wool will be discussed. Based on the surface characterisation results, more details about the mechanism of plasma treatment that affects the wool processing such as dyeing and shrinkproofing can be explored.

In the latter part of the monograph, the serviceability of plasma-treated wool fabrics is discussed and the possibility of applying the plasma-treated wool fabric to industrial use is evaluated based on standard performance specification, e.g. ASTM. The fabric performance in terms of tailorability and sewability are also discussed with reference to the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F) results. As the plasma process is a “dry” process, i.e. the water used in the plasma system can be recycled, thus it can solve the industrial effluent problem resulting in providing an effective means for the modification of wool fabrics.     

Assessment of key issues in the coloration of polyester material

In a previous publication we reviewed some of the most critical issues that affect the coloration and properties of cotton-based textiles [R. Shamey and T. Hussain, Textile Progress 37(1/2) (2005) pp. 1–84]. Today, polyester is still widely regarded as an inexpensive and uncomfortable fiber, but this image is slowly beginning to fade with the emergence of polyester luxury fibers. Polyester fibers currently comprise a commanding 77% share of the total worldwide production of the major synthetic fibers [F. Ayfi, 2003–2004 Handbook of Statistics on Man-Made/Synthetic Fibre/Yarn Industry. Part One, Fibre for Better Living, Association of Synthetic Fibre Industry, Mumbai, India, 2004, p. 177]. More than 95% of all polyester fibers manufactured today is based on polyethylene terephthalate. The dyeing properties of polyester fibers are strongly influenced by many of the processing conditions to which each fiber may be subjected during its manufacturing or in subsequent handling. Significant differences in properties of fibers can therefore arise due to their different processing history. Often, the root cause(s) of a problem in the dyed synthetic material can be traced as far back as the manufacturing process. In order to resolve many of the outstanding issues that commonly occur in the dyeing of this important fiber, a comprehensive review of the issues dealing with the manufacturing history as well as fiber processing conditions, including preparation, dyeing, and finishing is warranted. Although some of the underlying problems are related to common causes such as water quality and imperfections in machinery employed, others are specific to the treatment conditions of the fiber. Such conditions include preparation of ingredients, polymerization, fiber and filament processing conditions, as well as heat setting that can cause problems in the coloration of fiber. This summary analysis complements the rich pool of knowledge in this domain and addresses problems in the dyeing of polyester textile materials in various forms. An overview of various textile operations for polyester is given in the beginning. Then, various key steps and critical factors involved in the production of dyed polyester textile materials are described in detail and problems originating at each stage are summarized.     

改善极细涤纶纤维染色性的途经

论述了极细涤纶纤维的染色性，如极细纤维表观染色深度浅的原因，极细纤维的上染性、染色速度、色泽的鲜明性、染色坚牢度等，着重介绍其改善的途径，主要从染料、材料及染色方法等方面来解决。     

纺织染整专利申请中的"商品名称"使用

纺织染整领域的专利申请包含许多工艺方法,撰写专利申请文件时经常出现一些商品名称作为原料使用的情况.根据现行专利法及其实施细则、审查指南,结合纺织领域的审查实践,介绍了商品名称在纺织染整领域专利申请中出现的撰写问题及其原因,允许使用商品名称的情形,专利审查答辩中恰当的修改方式和证据的使用等.     

Upcycling of waste textiles into regenerated cellulose fibres: impact of pretreatments

Abstract

Due to several factors including textile waste accumulation and the use of environmentally harsh chemicals, the textile industry has become the second worst polluting industry worldwide. Therefore, significant effort is currently underway to find solutions to reduce this impact. In this study, coloured waste cotton fabrics were regenerated through a wet spinning process into new coloured fibres, hence recycling not only the fibre materials but also the colour. The impact of pretreatments on the colour retention and degree of polymerization of waste cotton-based fabrics was investigated in terms of the degree of polymerization of the waste cotton, the rheological properties of the spinning dope and the ability to maintain the original colour of the waste fabric. The spun fibres showed mechanical strength similar to commercial viscose fibre. The colour from the original fabric was retained under selected acid pretreatment conditions.     

羊毛的紫外线预处理染色工艺研究

由于毛用活性染料利用率不像酸性染料那样高,为了提高染料利用率,本研究采用自行设计的紫外线辐射装置对羊毛织物进行紫外线照射处理,照射功率和照射时间都进行了分组。研究了不同条件紫外线辐射处理对羊毛染色性能的影响,测试并分析了处理后羊毛的上染率、色牢度和强力变化,最后使用正交实验得出紫外线处理染色的最优条件。最佳照射功率为60W、照射时间15min、染料利用率达90%。     

珍珠纤维活性染料染色性能探讨

文章通过大量实验探讨了几类活性染料在珍珠纤维上的上染率、固色率、牢度、色泽风格等染色性能,确定KE型活性染料较适合珍珠纤维的染色。     

Dyestuff—fibre interactions

The strength and nature of dye–fibre interactions vary according to fibre type and dye type. In the case of acid dyes for polyamide fibres, cationic dyes for acrylic fibres, disperse dyes for hydrophobic fibres, and direct dyes for cellulosic fibres, these interactions may be classified as non-covalent, a classification which includes van der Waals (VDW), electrostatic, induction, solvophobic and charge-transfer interactions.
Reactive dyes are a notable exception to the above, since the interaction which is responsible for their excellent wet fastness is the dye–fibre covalent bond, however, these dyes are increasingly viewed as environmentally unfriendly due to high salt usage and residual unfixed colour. This situation may be improved by either incorporating amine sites in the cellulose or by reversing the system to incorporate reactive residues in the fibre and nucleophilic sites in the dye.
Nonionic disperse dyes are valuable for hydrophobic fibres such as polyester but have made little impact on hydrophilic fibres such as silk, wool and cotton. Experiments to develop simple treatments to render the latter fibres disperse dyeable are described and the combined role of solvophobic and – interactions discussed.     

T/C24×T400混纺织物的连续平幅染整加工

根据T-400纤维的特点,兼顾棉纤维的染整要求,其前处理采用冷轧堆练漂,短蒸复漂,低温定型,染色用TERASIL分散染料和UnivadinePB分散促进剂进行连续平幅加工,生产实践表明,其成品弹性损伤小,匀染性好,色牢度达到出口订单的要求。     

等离子体改善亚麻染整性能的研究

采用低温等离子体对亚麻织物进行表面处理,可改变纤维的表面化学结构和形态,并使其染色性能发生相应的变化。结果表明,处理后的亚麻织物染色速率、上染率、固色率都有所提高。从而解决亚麻染料上染率低、染色牢度差、色光萎暗等缺陷,大大提高了亚麻的染色性能。     

Variation in the softness and fibre curvature of cashmere,alpaca, mohair and other rare animal fibres

Softness of apparel textiles is a major attribute sought by consumers. There is surprisingly little objective information on the softness properties of rare animal fibres, particularly cashmere, alpaca and mohair. Samples of these and other rare animal fibres from different origins of production and processors were objectively measured for fibre diameter, fibre curvature (FC, crimp) and resistance to compression (softness). While there were curvilinear responses of resistance to compression to FC and to mean fibre diameter, FC accounted for much more of the variance in resistance to compression. Fibre type was an important determinant of resistance to compression. The softest fibres were alpaca, mohair and cashgora and all of the fibres measured were softer than most Merino wool. Quivet, llama, camel, guanaco, vicuña, yak wool, bison wool, dehaired cow down and Angora rabbit were also differentiated from alpaca, mohair and cashmere. There were important differences in the softness and FC of cashmere from different origins with cashmere from newer origins of production (Australia, New Zealand and USA) having lower resistance to compression than cashmere from traditional sources of China and Iran. Cashmere from different origins was differentiated on the basis of resistance to compression, FC and fibre diameter. Cashgora was differentiated from cashmere by having a lower FC and lower resistance to compression. There were minority effects of colour and fibre diameter variation on resistance to compression of cashmere. The implications of these findings for the identification and use of softer raw materials are discussed.     

竹纤维的理化性能及染色研究

对一种新型纤维——竹纤维的部分物理性能、化学性能及染色性能进行研究。采用化学系统分析法、平均法得到竹纤维化学成分的质量分数。在化学性能方面主要测定其酸、碱溶失率。并从上染速率曲线、染色牢度这两方面对活性染料竹纤维染色作了初步研究：     

丙烯酸树脂在纺织印染中的应用

丙烯酸树脂是一种较为常用的化工材料,主要用作漆料,应用于纺织印染中,使织物的色彩更加自然,提升产品质量。文章对丙烯酸树脂化工材料在纺织印染中的应用进行研究,分析化工材料丙烯酸树脂的分类,总结出丙烯酸树脂使用类型的选择、防皱整理应用、泡沫涂层应用以及乳液聚合4项丙烯酸树脂在纺织印染中的应用步骤,希望能为广大纺织业工作者提供帮助。     

传统染色技艺的研究

现如今在这个快餐式的生活时代,人们更加崇尚工匠精神,传统染色技艺也不例外,其具有自身的审美特征,经过时代的洗礼,也越发具有魅力。以“纺织面料”为载体,分别对拓印、锤草印花、蒸煮染色、四缬防染等染色工艺进行研究,希望能给行业的设计师们提供一些素材,在今后的设计中能将传统技艺继续发扬光大。     

超临界CO_2技术及在纤维染色方面的应用

研究了超临界CO2染色技术,先分析了超临界流体及其物理意义,常用的超临界流体的性能比较,超临界CO2染色的机理、特点及与传统染色技术的比较.探讨了超临界CO2技术在纤维染色方面的应用,分别应用于合成纤维及天然纤维的染色,接着分析了影响超临界CO2染色效果的四个因素.     

液相色谱技术在染整中的若干应用

液相色谱技术作为重要的提纯与分析手段,对染整行业的检测方法开发、印染机理研究都有不可替代的作用。综述了液相色谱技术在染整学科中的发展历程;列举了该技术在染整研究中的应用,包括染化料的定性定量分析、纤维对染料吸附的热力学研究、以及不同染料配伍值的计算。另一方面,也综述了纺织材料作为新型色谱填料的相关研究。液相色谱技术与印染技术的结合,不但可以丰富纺织材料的研究手段,揭示小分子化学品与纤维材料之间的相互作用规律,还可以开发性能独特、具有生物相容性的新型纤维形态色谱填料,用于蛋白质、糖以及其它化学品的分离。     

提高丝光羊毛纱线染色的一次成功率

提高染色的一次成功率(Right First Time)是纺织品市场对纺织染色企业的要求.丝光羊毛(Mercerized Wool)纱线的染色因其特殊性,要提高染色的一次成功率,需要做更多的工作.文章认为提高染色的一次成功率是一个系统工程,正确仿样和稳定生产是关键.具体分析了影响丝光羊毛纱线染色的一次成功率的各个主要环节,并提供了提高丝光毛纱染色的一次成功率的可行方案.     

Feltability of cashmere and other rare animal fibres and the effects of nutrition and blending with wool on cashmere feltability

Felting is a unique attribute of animal fibres used for the production of a range of industrial and apparel textiles. Felting can be an adverse attribute as a consequence of dimensional shrinkage during laundering. As there is little objective information regarding the feltability of rare animal fibres or the factors which may affect felting three investigations were undertaken. A survey (n?=?114) of the feltability of cashmere from different origins of production, cashgora, quivet, camel hair, llama, guanaco, bison wool, cow fibre and yak wool quantified the large variation between and within these fibre types. Cashmere from some origins and cashgora produced higher feltball density than the other fibres. Different nutritional management of cashmere goats (n?=?35) showed that cashmere grown by poorly fed goats had a lower propensity to felt compared with cashmere grown by better fed goats. A consequence of the progressive blending of cashmere (n?=?27) with a low propensity to felt superfine wool (high fibre curvature) increased the propensity of the blend to felt, but when the same cashmere was blended with low curvature superfine wool, there was little or no effect on feltability. The mechanisms which lead to variance in feltability of these fibres were quantified with multiple regression modelling. The mechanisms were similar to those reported for wools, namely variations in the resistance to compression, fibre curvature and mean fibre diameter, with likely effects of fibre crimp form. It is possible to source cashmere and other animal fibres which have different propensities to felt and therefore to produce textiles which are likely to have different textile properties.     

SML染色载体对涤纶微细纤维染色的影响

研究了环保型分散染料染色载体ＳＭＬ对涤纶微细纤维染色的影响,从其对涤纶微细纤维上分散染料的上染速度曲线,升温上染速率曲线,提升性,移染率以及染色织物的表观色泽浓度,颜色特性和染色牢度的影响来看,ＳＭＬ具有良好的应用前景。