织物折皱回复性能的研究

把毛织物看成是具有内摩擦约束的弹性条，利用能量分析的方法对毛织物在折皱回复时的回复力与变形的关系进行了分析，通过；简单的模型及公式将织物在回复过程中的重要性质表征出来，理论与实测结果基本吻合。     

织物折皱回复规律与建模

根据纺织材料黏弹性理论,研究织物的折皱回复变化规律。在织物摩擦约束力偶与其弯曲曲率成正比的假设条件下,把织物看成是具有内摩擦约束的固体黏弹性材料,利用标准线性固体和滑块并联组成的模型,对织物的折皱回复行为进行分析,把织物的加压弯曲、释压回复等行为过程用同一模型联系起来,在此基础上推导出织物折皱回复角的回复规律方程。并以毛织物和毛/涤混纺织物为实验材料进行验证,经实际测试证明,该模型能较好地反映织物折皱回复角的回复规律。     

织物折皱回复角的计算

利用标准固体单元和滑块并联组成的模型,在织物摩擦约束力偶与其弯曲曲率成正比的假设下,对织物的弯曲和折皱回复进行了分析,并用纯弯曲实验得到的数据计算出织物的模型参数,从而计算出织物在不同时刻的回复角,平纹织物的理论预期与实测结果符合较好。     

Evaluating the crease recovery performance of woven fabrics considering bending behaviour in various directions

Since the woven fabric is used on the 3D body, it encounters bending deformation and crease in various directions. Due to the prominence of these deformations in the appearance of the garment, the inspection of bending and crease recovery behaviour of fabric in different directions needs to be considered. In this paper, the evaluation of bending rigidity and crease recovery of fabrics is carried out in various directions. Analysis of the results revealed that fabric-bending rigidity could be expressed as a sinusoidal function of sample orientation towards warp direction. For all the studied fabrics, from warp axis to bias direction, bending rigidity follows a descending trend, however; crease recovery angle has an ascending tendency. Reverse variations were achieved for both properties from bias direction to weft axis due to the variant warp and weft yarn contributions in each direction. Hence, the lowest bending rigidity was obtained in the bias direction (45°), while the highest crease recovery angle was recorded for the mentioned direction. Moreover, an exponential function is utilized to express the non-linear relation between bending rigidity and the crease recovery in different directions of the fabric. The statistical analysis of the results clarified that the effect of fabric direction and structural parameters on the bending and crease recovery behaviour is significant in the confidence range of 95%.     

织物的弯曲性能

用线性粘弹理论对织物在小弯曲变形情况下的弯曲性能作了分析。假定织物的弯曲行为是粘弹性的,具有内摩擦约束,内摩擦弯矩与弯曲曲率成正比。织物流变模型由标准线性固体模型和一个摩擦元件并联组成。通过分析曲率周期性变化时的弯曲行为,建立了弯曲性能与模型参数之间的关系。利用实验所得到的模型参数对表征织物弯曲性能的指标进行计算,理论计算与实验结果相符。     

Exploring the relationship between bending property and crease recovery of woven fabrics

Fabric bending property dictates fabric crease behaviors. Exploring the relationship between fabric bending and crease recovery properties is important for better understanding of fabric performance. This paper presents the viscoelasticity modeling of a creased fabric to characterize the torque and bending deformation by crease recovery and bending parameters, respectively. In the experiment, nine types of fabrics were selected to analyze the relation between bending property and crease recovery property. The bending rigidity (B) and the bending hysteresis moment (2HB) were measured by the KES-FB2 Pure Bending Tester. The initial angular velocity (IV) was measured by a dynamic crease recovery tester. The experimental results showed that B and 2HB generally decrease at the beginning and then almost remain unchanged with the increase in IV. We used an exponential function to express the non-linear relation between bending rigidity and the initial angular velocity, and proved that the initial angular velocity is related to fabric bending property and can be used to characterize the fabric crease recovery property.     

Sequential image for measurement of fabric crease recovery angle

Crease recovery, one of an essential property for assessing fabric usability, is often evaluated by crease recovery angle method. This paper presents an image registration method based on mutual information to measure the crease recovery angle. The mutual information of two random variables is a measure of their mutual dependence. The maximum normalized mutual information can be worked out when the positions of the free wing in both the rotated frame and the other frame achieve a perfect match. The difference of recovery angles between two frames is defined as the rotated angle of the former frame when the normalized mutual information of the rotated frame and the latter frame is the maximum. Compared with Hough transform method, the recovery angle measured by the proposed method is more accurate when the free wing bends. Besides, mutual information is also applied to determine the stable time when the recovery process reaches a steady state by measuring it between a frame and the other frame which is captured 10 s after the former frame. The experimental results show that the crease recovery properties of wool–polyester-blended fabrics are better than the fabrics made of other materials. However, the property of 100% cotton fabric is poorer among the selected fabrics. It is demonstrated that the method has excellent robustness and adaptability in recovery angle calculation.     

机织物折皱回复各向异性的研究

针对织物的各向异性,研究了纯棉平纹和斜纹织物的折皱回复性能随取向角变化的情况。采用织物折皱回复动态测试仪测量不同取向角的动态回复指标,包括初始回复速率、急弹时间、急弹回复角度、缓弹时间、缓弹回复角度。结果表明,仅回复角度随取向角变化存在一定规律性,平纹织物的折皱回复角度随着取向角的增加呈现先增大后减小的趋势,斜纹织物正面对折和反面对折试样的趋势有所不同。试验证明了织物对角线方向能较全面反映结构均匀平纹织物的折皱回复性能,斜纹斜向和其垂直方向能作为斜纹织物的测试角度。     

温湿度对纯棉织物折皱回复性影响的研究

文章针对纯棉织物折皱回复性差的问题,探讨了温湿度对纯棉织物折皱回复性能的影响。结果表明:在外力一定的情况下,纯棉织物的折皱回复角会随着温湿度的升高不同程度变小,织物的折皱回复性能下降。     

22—A THEORETICAL AND EXPERIMENTAL INVESTIGATION OF THE CREASE RECOVERY OF PLAIN-WEAVE FABRICS WOVEN FROM STAPLE YARNS

The retained angle at a crease is considered to be made up of two components: inelastic and frictional. A theoretical scheme has been developed that enables the inelastic component to be calculated from the appropriate fibre, yarn and fabric data and the calculations are illustrated for three fabrics.

An experimental investigation of the crease-recovery behaviour of these fabrics, in conjunction with the calculations described above, has established a method of deducing the frictional component from the low-curvature bending-recovery behaviour of a fabric, and it is thus possible to make an estimate of the fabric crease-recovery angle. The calculation has been carried out for a range of fabrics woven from eighteen fibre types, each in four different cover factors, and the results are shown to agree reasonably well with the measured crease-recovery angles for the same fabrics. The experimental results are discussed and some interesting relationships are pointed out; in particular it is shown that fabrics must be well relaxed if the full potential of a high-recovery fibre is to be realized.     

氨纶丝预牵伸倍数对弹力织物性能的影响

为了解氨纶丝预牵伸倍数对弹力织物性能的影响,在一定的工艺设备与条件下,纺制了不同牵伸倍数的环锭弹力纱及转杯弹力纱,利用这些弹力纱作为纬纱,分别织制了环锭弹力纱织物和转杯弹力纱织物.为了进行对比,还织造了相同规格的纯棉织物.经织物性能测试表明:弹力织物除断裂强度比纯棉织物低外,断裂伸长率、弹性回复率、折皱回复率、透气性能均优于纯棉织物;环锭弹力纱织物除折皱回复性比转杯弹力纱织物低之外,断裂强力、断裂伸长率、弹性回复性、透气性能指标均优于后者;弹力织物除透气性外,断裂强度、断裂伸长率、弹性回复、折皱回复都随弹力丝预牵伸倍数的增大先增大后减小.     

平纹纯棉色织面料纬密对洗后外观平整度的影响

文章主要研究了平纹纯棉色织面料在经密相同的情况下,不同的纬密对面料折皱恢复角、洗后外观平整度的影响,结果表明:折皱恢复角、洗后外观平整度与面料的纬密在设定的范围内存在很强的相关性,合理调整面料的纬密对提高面料的洗后外观平整度起很大作用,为有免熨烫要求的平纹纯棉色织面料密度设计提供了理论依据。     

Analysis of bending properties of worsted wool yarns and fabrics based on quasi-three-point bending

Abstract

The bending behavior of worsted wool yarns and fabrics plays a crucial role in handling and performance of end-use textiles. Hence, the fabric/yarn bending properties were studied based on a quasi-three-point bending model by means of the theoretical modeling and the corresponding measuring method. By means of the formula and the measured curves, the curve of bending rigidity and the curvature of a fabric or a yarn can be calculated so as to characterize the bending behavior more precisely than in the previous work. All the experiments on the fabric/yarn bending rigidity have been conducted for both the worsted wool fabrics and the corresponding yarns procured from the fabrics, with the same apparatus bending evaluation system of fabric and yarn, which was developed independently. The measured results of bending rigidity and curvature curve show good correlation with the bending moment and the curvature relationship of the theoretical modeling, and the comparisons of bending rigidity among KES-FB2 (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics-2 pure bending tester), FAST-2 (Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing-2 bending meter), and the independently developed apparatus show that the three systems exhibist reasonably high correlations. It is confirmed that the new apparatus and the theoretical model are both viable and precious. Meanwhile, the theoretical relationship between the yarns and the fabrics has also been discussed, and the theoretical analysis of the bending behavior between the yarns and the fabrics is helpful in selecting a better theoretical model of the fabric-to-yarn bending rigidity ratio.     

织物折皱回复性能建模研究

基于纺织材料的弹性回复性能及织物的内摩擦作用,研究织物在较小折皱力作用下的折皱弯曲与回复性能,通过简单的模型及公式表征织物回复过程中的重要性质,分析毛及毛涤织物在折皱回复过程中回复力与折皱弯曲形变的关系。利用KES-FB3压缩仪设计折皱弯曲测试试验,用所得数据计算模型参数,能较好地反映出织物折皱回复规律,理论计算值与实测值吻合程度较好。     

新型无甲醛防皱整理剂BTP400在棉织物上的应用

为提升无甲醛防皱整理棉织物的品质,以自制含双二氯均三嗪基团的无甲醛防皱整理剂BTP400浸渍整理织物,探究BTP400与织物的结合方式,研究了影响BTP400固着棉织物效率的因素,并考察了固着的BTP400质量分数与织物防皱性能间的关系。优化得到的防皱整理工艺条件：BTP400、碳酸钠和硫酸钠3种助剂的质量浓度分别为10、8、5 g／L,浸渍温度为50℃,浸渍时间为50min。结果表明：BTP400以共价键与织物连接,最高固着率为42.7％;随固着的BTP400 质量分数的增高,织物干、湿态折皱回复角增大,最大值分别提高47.1％ 和19.3％;整理棉织物外观平整度等级为3级,耐水洗性良好,且强力及白度与原织物持平;BTP400防皱整理织物的综合品质优于丁烷四羧酸和醚化2D树脂整理织物。     

高支高密色织面料紧度、织造难度系数与折皱回复角的关系研究

通过测试相同经纬纱支、不同密度面料的折皱回复角,可以很明显地看出折皱回复角与面料紧度、织造难度系数存在一定的关系,合理调整面料的经纬向紧度、总紧度,对提高面料的折皱回复角起很大的作用。     

18—TIME-DEPENDENT RECOVERY AND RELAXATION EFFECTS IN RESIN-TREATED COTTON FABRICS

Results are presented for the crease-recovery of resin-treated Oxford-weave fabrics after various loading and recovery times. Results are also given for the bending couple-relaxation and tensile stress-relaxation of these fabrics. It is shown that the differences between the crease-recoveries of moist-cure-treated and pad–dry-cure-treated fabrics may be attributed, at least in part, to the time-insensitivity of the former. It is also shown that the relaxation rates obtained by bending and extending a fabric sample are broadly similar within a reasonable range of either curvature or extension. An explanation is offered for some differences in behaviour.     

丝毛复合网络织物防皱性能研究

比较了不同比例丝毛复合网络织物的折皱性，研究了用多功能弹性体处理丝毛复合网络织物后对折皱性的影响，并用酸碱水解法、氨基酸含量的变化和扫描电镜法，探讨弹性体提高丝毛复合对网络织物折皱回复性的原因，以及不同的加工方法对比毛复合网络织物风格的影响。     

针织西服面料的挺括风格研究

为探讨针织面料在西服开发应用的要求与标准,寻找能够用于西服开发的针织面料,分别从弯曲长度、折皱回复性、悬垂性3个方面对针织面料的挺括风格进行量化分析。借助实验仪器以及数据处理得到弯曲刚度、折皱回复角、静态悬垂系数3项性能指标,以机织西服面料为参考标准,对针织面料的挺括风格进行研究分析。结果表明:6路变化罗马组织是较为适合针织面料开发西服的组织结构,其结构稳定性优于12路小提花组织以及变化间隔组织,降低纵向弯曲刚度与横向弯曲刚度的差异;织物厚度增加0.1 mm,折皱回复程度提高10%;织物密度控制在110~130线圈/(5 cm)时,悬垂程度达到机织西服面料的60%以上;6路变化罗马组织配合高织物密度能够使针织面料的挺括风格达到机织西服面料的80%。     

水性聚氨酯的合成及在亚麻织物防皱整理中的应用

基于DMDHEU树脂整理后的亚麻织物存在甲醛释放量高的问题,以异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯(IPDI)、聚乙二醇(PEG)、乙二胺基乙磺酸钠(AAS)和亚硫酸氢钠(NaHSO₃)为原料,合成封端型水性聚氨酯,并将其应用于亚麻织物的防皱整理。探讨了水性聚氨酯制备的优化工艺,通过红外光谱对合成产物进行表征。结果表明,水性聚氨酯制备的优化工艺为:n(—NCO)/n(—OH)=2.0,70℃预聚反应120 min,AAS用量3%,40℃扩链反应1 h,n(NaHSO₃)/n(NCO)=2.0。经水性聚氨酯整理后亚麻织物的折皱回复角为151.32°,并且无甲醛释放。