模拟实际着装的织物抗皱性测试方法

针对现有的织物抗皱性测试方法不能直接用来表征穿着过程引起的折皱这一现象,提出一种可模拟实际着装的织物抗皱性测试方法。构建了模拟装置,并利用图像处理技术提取了折皱密度。经20块织物的相关实验验证得出：模拟方法与实际着装产生的折皱非常相似,说明模拟方法具有一定的可行性,且其测试稳定性好于折皱回复角法;0°折皱回复角与折皱密度的相关性最大,随后是45°,建议增加45°折皱回复角的测试,以使测试结果更能表征实际着装时织物的折皱变形能力;建立了多元回归模型,此模型可用来预测实际着装时的折皱密度,无需经过工作量繁重的服装制作和实际穿着实验。     

纺纱方式对织物抗皱性能及拉伸弹性的影响

为开发天然抗皱免烫衬衫面料,探讨纺纱方式对拉伸弹性及抗皱性的影响,用聚酯(PET)长丝与纯棉纱通过全聚纺、全聚纺包芯、全聚赛络纺包芯、全聚赛络纺双丝包芯、全聚纺包芯合股5种纺纱方式,开发了5种线密度为14.8 tex的纱线,并织造了相同规格的5种织物,对织物的抗皱性、尺寸稳定性、刚柔性、拉伸变形性等进行测试与分析。 结果表明:纤维的急弹性变形比例、初始模量越大,织物的弹性及折皱回复性越好;纱线的毛羽少、表面光洁、条干均匀、初始模量大,则织物抗皱性好;全聚赛络纺包芯纱、全聚纺包芯双合股纱的抗皱性、尺寸稳定性、拉伸弹性回复性均较好,织物的外观平整度均为3.5级;全聚赛络纺包芯纱比全聚纺包芯纱双合股纱生产流程短,成本低,更适合用于开发高保形免烫衬衫面料。     

直接染料与低甲醛整理剂的——浴染色整理

使用国产直接染料和低甲醛类防皱整理剂对纯棉织物进行一浴法染色整理。主要研究了防皱整理剂、催化剂、焙烘条件、直接染料以及添加剂对染色整理织物的表面深度、折皱回复角以及断裂强度等性能的影响,并且测定和评价了其染色坚牢度。     

织物紧度和抗皱整理工艺对纯棉机织物折皱回复性的影响

为提升棉织物的抗皱性能,研究了织物紧度和抗皱整理工艺的协同作用对棉织物抗皱性能的影响.选取了不同紧度的斜纹、平纹2组棉织物试样,测试了其在抗皱整理前后的急弹与延迟回复角、表面形貌和化学结构.在实验基础上,结合双因素方差分析,确认了织物紧度、树脂质量浓度双因素的协同作用对织物抗皱性影响的显著性,分析了双因素单独和协同情况...     

Fabric wrinkling evaluation: a method developed using digital image analysis

The textile and clothing industry has conventionally used subjective methods for the assessment of fabric wrinkling. Indeed, the fabrics were usually evaluated subjectively in reference to a set of visual standards. However, the visual assessments of the wrinkling degree, often showing inconsistencies between wrinkle judgments of observers, are severely influenced by the color and the fabric texture which may exist. In this paper, an objective method which permits an evaluation of multidirectional wrinkling of any colored fabric has been developed using digital image analysis. This method consists in capturing images of the color wrinkled fabrics and processing them in simple steps using image‐processing software. The surface roughness, density, width, length, number, and height of the wrinkles, considered as wrinkling characteristics, were extracted. Wrinkle degree was selected to use as the comparative parameter of the result evaluation from conventional and digital methods. The wrinkle grade of each fabric sample obtained through the conventional technique was statistically compared with that obtained through the digital technique developed. This study demonstrates that the results of the digital method developed for wrinkle evaluation of colored fabrics were similar to those of conventional methods of wrinkling evaluation.     

Investigation on the novel measurement for fabric wrinkle simulating actual wear

It is very important to measure fabric wrinkling objectively and accurately. However, the most commonly used measurements could not be employed to realistically evaluate and predict how fabric will resist wrinkle when worn on human body. In our previous study, an equipment of measuring fabric wrinkling that can simulate actual wear was proposed. In this paper, we conduct further investigation on the measurement for fabric wrinkle-simulating actual wear, including improving the equipment, validating its repeatability, and clarifying its more accurate relationship with the wrinkle recovery angle (WRA) method. Results show that the measuring repeatability of the method is much better than WRA method and fabric wrinkling in the warp and bias direction plays more important part than weft. Therefore, it is advisable that WRA of the bias should be increased, whose measurement stability is the best in the WRA method as well. Equations of Wrinkle Density (WD) with WRAs are established, which can be used to estimate wrinkling of clothes after actual wear only by several WRAs of fabrics, avoiding the tedious clothes making and trial work.     

芯丝种类对织物抗皱性及抗变形性的影响

文章采用全聚纺纺纱方式生产了JC/PET、JC/PTT、JC/SPH、JC/T400四种包芯纱和一种纯棉纱,利用这五种纱线织造了规格相同的五种机织物。分别利用客观与主观评价法,评价织物的抗皱性及平整度等级,同时测试了织物的拉伸弹性回复率,以研究芯丝种类对织物抗皱性及抗变形性的影响。结果表明:芯丝的加入可以改善纯棉织物的平整度;长丝的初始模量、弹性影响织物的抗皱等级,SPH的初始模量最高、T400的弹性回复性最好,因此JC/SPH和JC/T400包芯纱织物抗皱等级最高,可以达到3. 5级;且这两种长丝的表面均有沟槽,截面为异形,起到毛细管作用,其织物具有较好的吸湿排汗作用,是开发高保形免烫衬衫面料的理想选择。     

PTT纤维品种对针织物弹性的影响

用KES测试分析了PTT的短纤织物、DTY长丝织物和PTT/PET双组分并列复合长丝织物的弹性伸长率、弹性回复率、塑性变形及抗疲劳特性,并且将其性能与氨纶、普通化纤织物(涤纶、锦纶织物)进行比较发现,PTT各种形态织物的弹性伸长均比普通化纤织物的弹性伸长大,比氨纶织物的弹性伸长小;在低负荷下,其回复性能均比普通化纤织物小,塑性变形比普通化纤织物大;3种形态的PTT针织物中PTT/PET双组分并列复合长丝织物的弹性伸长最大,回复性能最好,PTT短纤织物的回复性能最差,塑性变形最大。     

织物折皱回复规律与建模

根据纺织材料黏弹性理论,研究织物的折皱回复变化规律。在织物摩擦约束力偶与其弯曲曲率成正比的假设条件下,把织物看成是具有内摩擦约束的固体黏弹性材料,利用标准线性固体和滑块并联组成的模型,对织物的折皱回复行为进行分析,把织物的加压弯曲、释压回复等行为过程用同一模型联系起来,在此基础上推导出织物折皱回复角的回复规律方程。并以毛织物和毛/涤混纺织物为实验材料进行验证,经实际测试证明,该模型能较好地反映织物折皱回复角的回复规律。     

热湿处理对免烫羊毛织物保形性能的影响

为提升热湿处理后免烫羊毛织物的保形性能,分别在不同温度和湿度条件下对免烫羊毛织物进行处理。借助织物折皱弹性测试仪、万能强力仪、扫描电子显微镜、傅里叶红外光谱仪、X射线衍射仪等对处理前后免烫羊毛织物的折皱回复角、断裂强力和微观结构进行测试与表征。结果表明:免烫羊毛织物的折皱回复角随着测试温度和相对湿度的升高而下降,其中经90%相对湿度、100 ℃条件处理的免烫羊毛织物,折皱回复角降低为原样的88.2%;当免烫羊毛织物的处理温度不变时,断裂强力随着相对湿度的增高而逐渐下降;经过较高温度热湿处理的免烫羊毛织物,其表面纤维受到损伤,结晶度基本没有变化。     

织物折皱回复力的测试研究

分析了织物产生折皱及回复的过程,指出形成折皱的过程是与时间有关的松弛过程,织物折皱回复能力的大小,取决于折皱回复力和摩擦阻力之间的相对平衡关系.采用自制装置测量织物距折痕不同距离的初始折皱回复力发现,距折痕距离越大初始折皱回复力越小,并且随着折皱过程中外部压力作用时间的增大,初始折皱回复力不断减小,折皱回复角也不断减小,其变化规律符合负指数关系.     

Inspecting anisotropy in wrinkle recovery angle of woven fabric

In this paper, the anisotropic wrinkle recovery properties of plain and twill fabrics are explored by studying the variations of the wrinkle recovery angle with sample orientation angle. Orientation angle is the angle measured counterclockwise from the weft direction to the sample’s long axis, that is, the crease direction. This study focused on inspecting anisotropy in wrinkle recovery to find more effective test angles for different woven fabrics. A dynamic wrinkle recovery tester was used to measure the recovery angles of specimens automatically which were cut in various directions. The trend of plain fabrics shows that its recovery angle generally increases at first and then decreases with the increase in the orientation angle. The trend of twill fabrics differs in folding ways. The experimental results revealed that the wrinkle recovery angles of the woven fabrics had the lowest values near the orientation angles of 0° and 90°, i.e. the warp and weft directions, and therefore these two traditionally used directions in the standard test method did not best reflect the wrinkle recovery yielded from both warps and wefts. The diagonal direction (45°) was proven to be the optimal orientation angle for a balanced plain fabric, while the two orthogonal directions, i.e. the twill direction and its perpendicular direction, were found to be more relevant for a twill fabric. Optimal orientation angles used to test the wrinkle recovery angle of a woven fabric should be associated with its structure.     

精纺毛织物折皱回复性研究

选取了24种精纺毛织物,将织物沿0°、10°、20°、30°、40°、45°、50°、60°、70°、80°、90°方向裁剪成11个试样,然后用YG541E型全自动激光织物折皱弹性测试仪测试了24块毛织物在11个方向下的急弹性和缓弹性折皱回复角。经过数据处理得出以下结论:毛织物的平均急弹性回复角(X)和平均缓弹性回复角(Y)之间具有高度正相关关系,且Y=0.9219X+20.275,可以应用此公式由急弹性回复角计算缓弹性回复角,以减少测试工作量;建议今后对毛织物进行折皱回复性测试与评价时,为提高评价准确性,经向、纬向以及45°斜向需一起考虑。     

基于图像处理的织物多方向抗皱性测试方法

目前的抗皱性测试方法只能测试织物单一方向的折皱回复性,这与服装穿着时多方向的起皱形态相差较大。针对这种情况,本文首先设计一种能近似模拟服装膝盖和肘部起皱形态的多方向起皱装置,然后给出了其使用与测试方法,进而提出两个评价指标--急弹性和缓弹性抗皱面积比,最后将20块织物的这两个指标与急弹性和缓弹性折皱回复角进行对比分析,得出急弹性和缓弹性抗皱面积比分别与急弹性和缓弹性折皱回复角具有高度正相关关系。且多方向起皱装置所形成的折皱形态更接近服装实际穿着时的起皱形态,也能更好地反映织物的综合抗皱能力。     

Modelling crease recovery behaviour of woven fabrics

Crease recovery behaviour is an important property of fabrics for apparel applications. A theoretical model is developed in which the fabric is represented by an elastic element and a frictional element. The frictional restraint is assumed to be proportional to the square root of the curvature of the fabric during deformation. An energy method is applied to the study of crease recovery behaviour of the fabric. Equations of crease recovery work and crease recovery force as a function of curvature are derived. Two basic parameters are needed to characterise the fabric in the crease recovery model: the bending rigidity and bending hysteresis of the fabric; both are readily measured in a pure bending test. Good agreement is observed between experimental data and theoretical predictions for wool/polyester blended and worsted fabrics.     

棉织物的柠檬酸与有机硅复合整理

为了提高棉织物的疏水性能和抗皱性能,采用柠檬酸与侧链乙烯基聚硅氧烷(相对分子质量5000)改性聚丙烯酸酯(PASi)作为复合整理剂对棉织物进行整理.研究了复配种类、用量、焙烘温度和时间对织物抗皱性能、疏水性能、白度、透湿性能的影响.结果 表明:柠檬酸与PASi复配使用,用量均为10 g/L,160℃焙烘3 min时,整...     

纤维素酶对亚麻针织物性能的影响

分析了纤维索酶的作用机理,采用41.67 tex的双股亚麻针织纱在12 G手摇横机上进行试织.得出纬平针、1+1罗纹、四平3种不同组织的亚麻针织物样片,并使用纤维索酶对亚麻针织物进行处理,对比酶处理前后亚麻针织物的基本参数、折皱回复性、悬垂性、刺痒感等.通过测试发现,经纤维素酶处理后,3种织物的悬垂系数减小,折皱回复角有所增大,手感更加柔软,刺痒程度降低.为亚麻针织产品的开发提供了一定的理论依据.     

基于视频序列的织物折皱回复角动态测量

针对现有织物折皱回复性能测量方法存在仅能静态测量某时刻织物折皱回复角度值的不足,本文提出了基于视频序列的织物折皱回复角度动态测量方法。按AATCC66-2008标准要求,以SDL-M003折皱回复角试验机的负载装置压试样,再将试样置于视频序列采集系统中,对采集到的单帧图像依次进行二值化、细化预处理,采用Hough变换检测图像中织物折皱回复两翼对应的角度,进而获得折皱回复角。试验结果显示,基于视频序列的方法与AATCC66-2008测量方法的结果接近,表明了基于视频序列方法的可行性,并且该方法可以精确描述织物折皱回复的动态过程,为实现新的折皱回复性能指标的提出奠定了实验基础。     

双乙烯砜基团活性染料染色对棉织物防皱性能的提升

为提高棉织物的防皱性能,采用不同活性基团的活性染料,通过冷轧堆工艺对棉织物进行染色。借助X射线衍射仪、傅里叶红外光谱仪和扫描电子显微镜对染色棉织物的化学性能和表面形貌进行表征,探究了活性染料基团数量、种类、距离对染色棉织物防皱性能的影响,并对染色棉织物的颜色性能进行分析。结果表明：相较于单活性基团染料,双活性基团染料可以提高棉织物的防皱性能;相较于含有异双基团的活性红198染色棉织物,含有双乙烯砜基团的活性黑5染色棉织物具有更好的防皱性能;在活性黑5、活性橙131、活性蓝203以及活性红AS这4种双乙烯砜基团染料中,活性基团距离越大,染色织物的防皱性能越好,其中活性黑5染料染色织物的折皱回复角可达到210°;染料主要在纤维的无定形区与大分子链上的羟基发生共价键合反应,形成交联结构提升了棉织物的防皱性能。     

纯棉纱线合股数对织物性能的影响

为研究纯棉纱线合股数对织物力学性能和保形性的影响,采用线密度相同的单纱、双股线、3股线、4股线4种股线类型,以适当的经、纬密分别织制成平纹、斜纹、缎纹组织的织物。对织物的拉伸性能、撕裂强力、拉伸弹性、折皱回复性、悬垂性、弯曲性进行测试与分析。结果表明:3股线织物的断裂强力和撕裂强力较大,4股线织物的断裂伸长率较大,双股线织物的拉伸弹性回复率较大;平纹织物仅有双股线织物的折皱回复性优于单股线织物,斜纹和缎纹织物的折皱回复性随合股数的增加均变差;双股线平纹织物悬垂性相对较好,但均没有斜纹和缎纹织物的悬垂性好;单纱织物的弯曲性能比股线织物好。