铜颗粒增效湿摩擦牢度提升剂的性能及其应用

为提高活性染料深色织物湿摩擦牢度,在丙烯酸丁酯、甲基丙烯酸甲酯及十二烷基苯磺酸钠水溶液混合体系中制备了铜颗粒增效湿摩擦牢度提升剂。使用扫描电子显微镜对其形貌进行表征,测试其粒径,研究了其作为湿摩擦牢度提升剂对活性染料染色棉织物的最佳整理工艺及应用性能。结果表明：铜颗粒增效湿摩擦牢度提升剂的平均粒径为2472 nm,改性铜微粒在水溶液中呈石榴状聚集。浸轧法的最佳整理工艺为：湿摩擦牢度提升剂质量浓度20g／L,pH 值5～6,焙烘温度110 ～120 ℃,焙烘时间2 min。当活性染料用量分别为６％、８％（o.w.f）时,经铜颗粒增效湿摩擦牢度提升剂整理后活性染料染色棉织物的耐摩擦色牢度提高1～1.5 级。     

Anisotropy in geometrical and tensile properties of plain weave fabric: verifying a semi-empirical model

Geometrical and mechanical behaviors of fabric are extremely anisotropic. Exploit of fabric in multiplicity applications is dependent on its behavior in differ directions. Thus, attempts had been made to study the behavior of fabric in off and on axis systematically. For this purpose, authority of a semi-empirical model, based on earlier work, was experimentally investigated. The model consists of a numerical way to estimate yarn path under axial and normal tension simultaneously. A test method to evaluate flattening of yarn was presented in this study. Moreover, to reduce stress concentration at the sample’s corners a modified griper was applied. On the basis of initial data of fabric and flattening behavior of constitutive yarns, the fabric geometry and tensile force–strain (TF–S) curve of a strip fabric in arbitrary direction are capable to estimate using stated model. The variations in density of warp and weft yarns, shear angle, and TF–S curve of a fabric in different directions were measured and are compared with theoretical values. It was found that the stated model is applicable to predict fabric geometry and tensile behavior of a plain weave fabric under stress in arbitrary direction. Experimental results indicated that the strength of fabric at 45 degree was 22.59% higher than the strength of fabric in average of principal directions. On the basis of semi-empirical model, it is anticipated that the maximum strength of presented fabric would be occurred at 60 degree with 27.99% higher than the strength of fabric in average of principal directions.     

拼接对针织物拉伸性能和服装压力的影响

为了分析拼接工艺对针织物服用性能的影响,通过对15种锦纶/氨纶弹性针织物分别进行10%、20%、30%、40%、50%、60%拉伸率下的拉伸力值测试。从15种织物中优选3种进行拼接组合,并测试其拉伸性能,建立了单种针织物拉伸力值和拼接针织物拉伸力值的回归方程;测试了不同拉伸率下单种针织物试样和拼接针织物试样的服装压力,并建立了拉伸力值、拉伸率和服装压力的回归方程,总结了织物拉伸力值与服装压力的相互关系,能够辅助预测弹性针织物拼接后的拉伸力,为针织服装压力的相关研究提供参考和指导。研究结果表明:弹性针织物纵向与横向的拉伸率呈高度正相关。拼接针织物试样拉伸力与单种针织物试样拉伸力间存在显著相关性,且拼接针织物拉伸力受2种织物中拉伸力较大织物的影响大。通过拉伸率、拉伸力及服装压力的回归方程能够较好的预测服装压力。     

面料拉伸性能对经编无缝服装服装压的影响

通过对经编无缝服装面料的拉伸性能测试和经编无缝服装的服装压测试,探讨了面料拉伸性能与经编无缝服装压的关系,研究表明,服装压与弹性回复率、断裂强力和弹性模量呈正相关关系,与塑性变形率呈负相关关系;在原料、织物密度不变情况下,组织结构是影响面料拉伸性能的主要因素。研究成果对经编无缝服装设计和生产有指导意义。     

机织针织复合织物与多层双轴向纬编织物拉伸性能对比

选用玻璃纤维作经纱、纬纱和高强涤纶作针织纱分别编织机织针织复合(CWK)织物和多层双轴向纬编(MBWK)织物,测试两种织物的横向、纵向的拉伸性能,分析比较拉伸负荷和位移特征曲线。研究表明：在拉伸过程中,CWK织物MBWK织物均先由其中的经纱或纬纱,在较低的伸长下,承担较高的负荷,直至经纱或纬纱断裂,然后由针织结构,在较高的伸长下,承担较低的负荷,直至针织结构破坏;经纱和纬纱以交织形式衬入针织结构中,使得CWK织物的轴向的拉伸强度稍低于MBWK织物,但起到一定的“预牵伸”作用,可使针织纱对经纱和纬纱捆绑效果更好。     

涂层过程中织物拉伸对膜材料拉伸性能的影响

针对机织基布涂层前后结构相变化所导致的拉伸力学性能的变化,建立了膜材料拉伸力学的空间桁架模型,旨在讨论涂层过程中织物经向拉伸对膜材料拉伸性能的影响。建模过程中分别考虑了以经纬纱屈曲转换为主及纱线拉伸伸长为主的变形机制,用最小二乘法分段线性拟合来描述织物拉伸性能的非线性,用PVC/PES膜材料的拉伸试验验证模型的可靠性。结果表明:通过控制织物在涂层过程中的应变量,可以由涂层前织物的拉伸行为预测涂层后膜材料的拉伸性能。     

Fatigue failure characterization of multi-axial warp-knitted composites under cyclic uniaxial tensile loading

In this work, the fatigue failure mechanisms of quadri- and tri-axial warp-knitted fabric composites (QWFC and TWFC) were investigated. A series of quasi-static state tensile tests and cyclic loading experiments were carried out, and the morphology of fatigue failure was visualized by optical and scanning electron microscopes (SEM). The results showed that while the failures of QWFC and TWFC were similar with X-shape morphology, QWFC had longer fatigue life than TWFC. The SEM images illustrated that the matrix of QWFC was not uniform, and contained cracks with scaly appearance, in addition to small amount of fiber curls. Moreover, the fracture surface was flat and layered. In contrast, the matrix of TWFC had propagation of cracks along ±45° direction; its fracture surface had sphere ‘budding yeast-like’ appearance. The wrap-knitted fabric contained increased numbers of layers in the composites, thereby had longer fatigue life.     

聚四氟乙烯／芳纶破斜纹织物衬垫拉伸性能数值仿真

为了解自润滑关节轴承织物衬垫的拉伸性能,对其拉伸性能进行了数值仿真与试验验证。通过进行切片试验,利用激光共聚焦显微镜观测纤维截面形态,对截面形貌轮廓尺寸进行测量计算,得到了纤维束的几何参数,利用ANSYS有限元软件建立了织物衬垫增强相单胞模型;基于复合材料细观力学方法和周期性边界条件,研究了织物衬垫拉伸性能,利用ANSYS得出了聚四氟乙烯（ PTFE）／芳纶（ Kevlar）混织破斜纹衬垫的拉伸弹性常数;并将数值仿真分析结果与拉伸试验结果对比,结果相差约20％,在误差允许范围内。     

皂洗酶复配及其在染色后处理中的应用

应用漆酶DeniliteⅡS进行了染液脱色与棉染物酶洗试验,考察了不同助剂对漆酶处理效果的影响。结果表明：阴离子表面活性剂十二烷基硫酸钠、螯合剂EDTA等对漆酶酶活有一定的抑制作用;非离子表面活性剂平平加O和吐温-80能增加漆酶反应活性,使脱色率（数量、比例）增加。漆酶与吐温-80复配的皂洗酶对棉染物有较好的酶洗效果,处理后织物湿摩擦牢度有所增加。     

不同组织结构织物的拉伸、撕裂和冲击强力效果

织物的组织结构通过组织因子和交织指数表达,这些因素之间的联系是r=0.98,R2=0.97。研究了这些参数对织物拉伸、撕裂和冲击强力的影响。织物的拉伸性能受其参数和结构的影响。因此,这项工作可以帮助理解织物相关强度的决定因素。试验研究织物中纱线相互交织或交错模式对拉伸、撕裂和冲击强力的影响。以12种具有代表性的不同交织方式织成的织物作为研究的对象。本试验工作表明:在这些不同的组织结构中,平纹的组织因子和交织指数是12种组织中最高的,花式组织最低,表明织造类型影响织物的强度性能。利用方差分析帮助进行结果分析。     

PTT/PET双组分长丝织物拉伸性能测试与分析

为了解PTT/PET三维卷曲复合丝及其不同织物参数对织物拉伸性能的影响,通过改变PTT/PET复合丝比例、捻度、织物组织和纬密4个参数织造了33种织物,测试并分析了这些织物的拉伸性能指标。研究发现：PTT/PET双组分长丝织物拉伸断裂强力较低,而断裂伸长较高,低负荷条件下织物具有高伸长特性;在相同的条件下,随着纬纱PTT/PET含量提高,断裂强力呈下降趋势而断裂伸长相应提高,纬密主要影响织物拉伸断裂强力,对断裂伸长的影响不大,PTT/PET复合丝的捻度对低负荷条件下织物拉伸性能影响明显,因织物组织不同其拉伸性能也存在一定差异。     

广角机织物的织造工艺及其偏轴拉伸力学性能

为开发适用于不同应用领域的产业用纺织品,在对原有普通剑杆织机改进的基础上,探讨了广角机织物的织造工艺,织造了经纱和纬纱夹角为120°的涤/棉平纹广角机织物。借助万能材料试验机研究了普通涤/棉正交织物和广角机织物不同偏轴方向的拉伸力学性能,获得了其应力-应变曲线和特征值变化规律,并分析了其变形及失效模式。结果表明:对于普通正交机织物和广角机织物,其拉伸断裂强力均呈现出明显的极轴特性;在断裂强力相同的情况下,与普通正交机织物相比,广角机织物纬向的断裂伸长率提高了30%,经、纬向弹性模量分别提高了42%和79%,展现出优异的强度和变形特征。     

羊毛与棉针织物湿舒适性能对比

以14．6、26．0tex羊毛纱线和14．6、28．1tex棉纱线为试验原料,制备出4组纬平针织物。介绍了羊毛织物和棉织物的制备方法及工艺参数,并对4种针织物的透气性、吸湿性、压缩回弹性、抗弯刚度等性能进行了测试,分析了纱线规格对针织物湿舒性能的影响。试验结果为：在不同相对湿度条件下,羊毛针织物的透气率均大于棉针织物：在高相对湿度状态下,高支羊毛针织物的湿舒适性能最优良,羊毛针织物的蓬松性更好,且不易粘连人体,适宜穿着。     

灯芯点结构导湿快干针织物的设计

为了保持织物内层干燥和人体的舒适性,采用H型截面吸湿快干涤纶纤维和彩棉纤维,设计了一种具有很高的汗质传递速率的灯芯点结构导湿快干功能针织物,能使人体汗液迅速从织物内层渗透、扩散到织物外层,保持内层干燥。还研究了亲水整理技术对织物性能的影响,以实现最佳舒适功能效果。     

三维间隔织物复合材料的制备及拉伸性能研究

介绍三维间隔织物复合材料的制备方法,并采用Instron 5969型万能材料试验机对三维间隔织物复合材料的拉伸性能进行测试,重点分析间隔高度、经纬向等结构参数对三维间隔织物复合材料拉伸性能的影响。结果表明:三维间隔织物复合材料拉伸性能随间隔高度的增加而下降;纬向拉伸性能优于经向。     

Tensile characteristics and stress relaxation analysis of woven fabrics in terms of fabric direction

Abstract

Woven fabrics in various end uses are subjected to tensile loads in different directions, so investigation of the effect of fabric direction on the tensile behaviour and the stress relaxation performance of fabrics is important and needs to be considered. In this study, the tensile and stress relaxation properties of woven fabrics with five various weave structures have been analysed, in different directions. It was concluded that the tensile properties of fabrics such as Young’s modulus, breaking load and elongation and also the work of rupture were significantly affected by the fabric direction and weave structure. Moreover, it was determined that the fabric tensile stress relaxation (%) was considerably affected by the applied strain level, fabric direction and weave structure in the confidence range of 95% and it might well be expressed as a Gaussian function of sample direction.     

Effects of ultrasonic treatment on wool fibre and fabric properties

The protein structures of wool, treated in fabric form with ultrasonics for different time durations, were analysed by X-ray diffraction (XRD) and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR), in comparison with the wool without ultrasonic treatment. Fabric water absorption and tensile properties were measured in addition to the fibre micro-structure analysis. It is shown that while the ultrasonic treatment had little effect on the fibre crystallinity, some chemical structures in the protein were altered to some extent during the process. Disruption of fibre internal waxy lipids upon ultrasonic treatment provided the fibres with increased water absorption. Protein chains in the macro fibrils were shown to be rearranged to a more regular and less flexible structure, as a result of the ultrasonic treatment. Fabric tensile tests showed an increased tenacity and a reduced extensibility to the ultrasonically treated fabric. Prolonged ultrasonic treatment, however, significantly reduced both fabric tenacity and extensibility.     

小应力下织物拉伸和弯曲性能对其湿态贴体性的影响

为了研究湿态下织物脱离皮肤时对皮肤的贴附性能,本文采用新型研发的织物湿态黏附仪对织物试样在湿态下对皮肤的贴服性能测试,得到黏附力,黏附距离和黏附功三个指标,并得到黏附曲线。对10种不同类型的织物试样的黏附曲线形状进行观察分析,总结出黏附曲线的共性特征,发现黏附曲线分为3个区域,每个区域对应不同分离过程。为探讨影响织物的湿态舒适性的力学因素,采用KES系统对织物试样测试其拉伸和弯曲性;同时测试得到相应试样在分离速度为15mm/min下的黏附曲线和黏附指标值;对数据进行分析,发现织物的拉伸功与最大黏附力大致呈正相关,而弯曲刚度恰好相反;最大黏附距离越大,黏附曲线越平坦。     

中心切口对机织物增强柔性复合材料破坏过程与拉伸性能的影响

对预置中心裂纹切口和圆形切口机织物增强柔性复合材料在低速拉伸条件下的力学性能进行测试,随后对切口试样的破坏过程和拉伸曲线进行对比分析,对切口试样的缺口敏感性、拉伸模量和屈服强度随切口强度比的变化趋势进行研究.试验结果表明,织物增强柔性复合材料具有强烈的缺口敏感性,相对于中心圆形切口,机织物增强柔性复合材料对中心裂纹切口较为敏感.切口试样的拉伸模量和屈服强度随切口尺寸比的变化趋势表明,“切口强化”效应可用拉伸模量和屈服强度的强化来间接描述.     

有色棉底布电脑测配色套色

对电脑测配色公式进行推导,建立适合有色棉底布套色的基础数据库。染料总用量相同,采用单一染料分别对空白棉织物单次和两次进行染色,结果显示分次染色后棉织物的K/S值低于单次染色。根据该现象,对现有的套色功能提出质疑。分别建立以空白棉织物和有色棉织物为底布的基础数据库并对数据库的套色准确性进行测试,结果显示直接采用有色棉织物为底布建立基础数据库获得的各染料单位浓度的K/S值应用于有色棉织物套色更符合套色的染色过程,降低了套色次数,减少了套色时间。本文根据实际情况对电脑测配色理论进行了一定程度的拓展,并为采用电脑测配色对有色棉织物修色提供了一条新的途径。