面料抗皱性能规律研究

为获得面料抗皱性能规律,用织布机自制45块面料,采用压皱实验测试面料抗皱性能,得到结论如下:面料密度显著影响面料抗皱性能,面料密度越大抗皱性能越差;面料组织对面料抗皱性影响略小,缎纹面料抗皱性最好,平纹面料抗皱性最差,斜纹面料居中。     

Role of filament cross-section in properties of PET multifilament yarn and fabric. Part I: Effect of fibre cross-sectional shape on transmission behaviour of fabrics

The transmission property of a fabric is a key factor that affects clothing’s comfort and decides the functional potential of clothing. The dependence of filament cross-section with varying shape factor (SF) on air, moisture and thermal transmission behaviour of fabric is determined in case of polyester multifilament woven fabrics. The linear density of each filament is kept identical for all 12 cross-section shape filaments. The SF of filament cross-section is an important factor which remained the prime factor to influence the transmission behaviour of fabric samples directly in many cases. Other indirect factors that influence the transmission behaviour of fabrics when the SF is identical are yarn structure, inter-fibre and inter-yarn space. Twelve different novel cross-sectional shapes are considered to make the multifilament woven polyester fabrics. The fabrics made from multifilament yarns having different SFs show that relative moisture vapour permeability and air permeability decrease with the rise in SF. Wickability increases with the rise in the SF of a filament cross-section. Multilobal, hexalobal and plus shapes were made a part of novel cross-sectional shapes in order to develop fabrics of higher comfort index.     

纤维素织物形态记忆整理中的液氨处理研究

采用间歇式液氨处理纤维素纤维织物后，再用聚氨酯进行形态记忆整理，探讨了织物结构性能的变化规律。研究结果表明，整理产品的综合效果高于或超过传统整理方式，具有形态记忆恢复功能和较高的强力保留率，而且改善了织物的手感和外观，游离甲醛含量低于50mg／kg。     

织物性能与服装结构对喇叭裙外观形态的影响

为了掌握优化喇叭裙外观形态的织物性能和服装结构参数变化的规律,采用2种织物性能对比明显的面料,通过实验研究裙片数量、裙长等服装结构参数变化对喇叭裙外观形态的影响。结果表明:硬挺面料相对柔软面料做的喇叭裙的裙摆宽度要长、裙摆张角要大、波纹的总均匀程度要好;喇叭裙随裙长的减短,裙摆的张角明显变大,波纹逐渐变得均匀,波纹的形状变平,逐渐不明显;随着裙片数的增加,喇叭裙的波纹均匀程度明显变好,尤其是柔软的面料。     

基于后梁高度差异的机织物纬纱行为研究

为使机织物中纬纱形成特殊的屈曲形态的外观效应,采用经纱在织机后梁上分区段扦插抬杆的办法,研究经纱差异张力下的织物纬纱行为特征。试样选用250 dtex×2涤纶/羊毛55/45混纺纱作经纬纱线,配置平纹组织,经向密度为200根/(10 cm)。设置不同抬杆扦插高度H值、扦插宽度K值和织物纬密P_w值,测试示踪纬的波动幅度M值。试验结果表明:H值在2.5 cm及以下,试验具有可行性;H值增大、K值减小,M值增大;当P_w值增大到300根/(10 cm)时,M值的增大趋势明显减弱;纬纱的屈曲形态与程度在织物试织过程中始终维持,并在织物下机后基本保持原状。     

Compression creep behaviour of polyester needle-punched nonwoven fabrics

This present study deals with the compression creep behaviour of polyester needle-punched nonwoven fabrics. Polyester fibres of three different cross-sectional shapes (round, circular hollow and trilobal) have been selected for this study. An instrument has been designed and fabricated to measure the compression creep property of needle-punched fabrics. The effect of duration of compression load, fabric weight, fibre cross-sectional shapes and reinforcing material on percentage compression creep has been studied. It has been observed that initially, compression creep decreases rapidly and with increase in time, decrease of percentage creep becomes minimal. After about 8500?min of application of the same compression load, no change in compression creep is noticed. The percentage compression creep decreases with the increase in fabric weight irrespective to fibre cross-sectional shapes of polyester needle-punched nonwoven fabrics. Trilobal cross-sectional fabric shows maximum amount of percentage compression creep at all levels of fabric weight followed by round and hollow cross-sectional polyester samples, respectively. The percentage compression creep is higher in case of fabric samples made without reinforcing material compared to the samples with reinforcing material. Hollow cross-sectional polyester fibre can be successfully used as raw material for the preparation of needle-punched nonwoven fabrics with or without reinforcing material carpet or floor mats. However, normal round cross-sectional polyester fibre only with reinforcing material can be used for the said application. Compression creep values of these selected polyester needle-punched fabric samples are much lesser in comparison with commercial market polypropylene needle-punched carpet samples.     

织物悬垂形态的模拟仿真

为利用织物结构、力学性能参数来预测织物悬垂形态,提出利用织物悬垂性能指标对织物悬垂形态进行仿真重建的方法,建立起织物结构、力学性能参数与织物悬垂性能指标的关系。从悬垂程度和悬垂形态2个方面,提出了10个表征织物悬垂性能的指标,利用这些悬垂性能指标及MatLab语言,对织物悬垂形态进行了三维仿真重建,获得了直观的视觉仿真效果,为预测织物悬垂形态的研究提供了一种新方法。     

Effects of ultrasonic treatment on wool fibre and fabric properties

The protein structures of wool, treated in fabric form with ultrasonics for different time durations, were analysed by X-ray diffraction (XRD) and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR), in comparison with the wool without ultrasonic treatment. Fabric water absorption and tensile properties were measured in addition to the fibre micro-structure analysis. It is shown that while the ultrasonic treatment had little effect on the fibre crystallinity, some chemical structures in the protein were altered to some extent during the process. Disruption of fibre internal waxy lipids upon ultrasonic treatment provided the fibres with increased water absorption. Protein chains in the macro fibrils were shown to be rearranged to a more regular and less flexible structure, as a result of the ultrasonic treatment. Fabric tensile tests showed an increased tenacity and a reduced extensibility to the ultrasonically treated fabric. Prolonged ultrasonic treatment, however, significantly reduced both fabric tenacity and extensibility.     

束缚态下服装面料的保型规律

 为了模拟人体实际着装环境下服装保型性能,设计一种新的服装面料保型性测试方法,在服装面料上施加一定压力,使面料紧贴在自制椭圆柱上16h后去除外力,自然状态下静置5min,用面料四侧面图像的凸起面积法评价面料保型性能。为获得面料保型规律,用织布机自制45块面料,用新设计方法测试面料保型性能,得到结论如下：面料密度显著影响面料保型性能,面料密度越大保型性能越差;面料组织对面料保型性影响略小,具体是缎纹保型性最好,平纹保型性最差,斜纹居中。     

织物悬垂三维形态的测量与重建

介绍了用结构光测量织物悬垂三维形态的方法。利用平行结构光在织物表面形成明暗相间的等高线条纹,用基于极坐标径向扫描的方法对织物投影图像中等高线条纹及织物边缘进行识别,得到织物曲面上的等高线及织物边缘点坐标,最后利用基于极坐标网格的三维曲面建模方法对悬垂织物的三维形态进行了重建。实验结果表明,上述方法能够比较理想地实现织物悬垂三维形态的测量与重建。     

纬平棉针织物双向拉伸线圈形态分析

针对纬平针织物在平幅丝光过程中线圈拉伸易变形的问题,对丝光前纬平棉针织物进行了双向拉伸,研究不同拉伸条件下线圈形态变化规律,同时采用网格法将织物分成不同的单元,分析双向拉伸条件下不同单元的位移矢量、圈距、圈高、形态系数、剪切角等结构参数沿拉伸方向的变化规律。结果表明:织物形变较小的区域呈椭圆形,且随着拉伸张力的增加,椭圆区域面积逐渐变小,圈距和圈高均符合抛物线的变化规律,形态系数呈周期性梯度分布,线圈最大剪切角变小,且所有剪切角减小的趋势变缓。     

基于图像处理的织物保形性检测

为更加全面、准确地评价织物保形性,开发了能够模拟织物在日常使用中被压皱后展平的恢复过程动态检测系统。通过检测系统获取织物折痕回复的视频序列,利用程序提取出各时刻的单帧视频图像,然后依次对图像进行预处理、二值化处理与细化处理,最后提取出反映织物保形性的指标,包括顶角、顶高、保形面积。实验结果表明:在折痕回复阶段,随时间延长各指标变化速率逐渐降低,在压力为10 N,加压时间为10 s的条件下,试样在60 s后趋于平稳;60 s时的顶角与现有标准方法测得的折皱回复角存在线性函数关系,顶高、保形面积与标准方法测得的悬垂系数之间存在线性函数关系。该系统可以通过顶角、顶高、保形面积3项指标预测织物折皱回复角与悬垂系数,并能够精确描述织物保形性动态变化过程,可实现对织物保形性精确、全面的评价。     

Assessment of the effect of fabric constructional parameters on surface roughness of wool fabrics

Surface roughness properties of wool fabrics are one of the important parameters of clothing quality and hand feeling. This paper presents a comparison between surface roughness characteristics of wool fabrics produced from different constructional parameters such as warp and weft yarn density, weft yarn count, and weave pattern. Roughness values of fabrics were affected by constructional parameters and the effects were related to fabric cover, fabric thickness, and crimps of yarns in fabric structure. A general overview of the results showed that surface roughness of wool fabrics decreased and the effect of changes in structural construction decreased as cover of fabrics increased.     

Novelty of bamboo fabric

Fabric samples using 100% cotton, 100% viscose rayon, 100% regenerated bamboo viscose fibre and cotton/bamboo viscose blend (60/40) were produced and characterised for hand value and health care applications. The present study shows the results of these woven fabrics in terms of antibacterial, absorbency, ultraviolet protection factor (UPF), static characteristics, moisture vapour permeability (MVTR) and handle and dust catchability. Bamboo fabrics (100%) give better results compared to 100% cotton and 100% viscose fabric in terms of antibacterial property and absorbency i.e. wettability. Bamboo fabric (100%) also shows slightly higher moisture vapour transmission rate than cotton fabric. In the case of UPF, 100% cotton and 100% bamboo give excellent-rated UPF. There is no significant difference between these fabric samples in terms of time to lapse half saturated voltage. Total hand value is higher in the case of viscose and bamboo fabric than cotton fabric. The studies also show that breaking load and extension of bamboo gauze bandages are higher than cotton bandages. Sinking time is faster but absorptive capacity is lower in the case of bamboo gauze bandage than cotton gauze bandage.     

PTT纤维形态记忆面料的染整工艺探讨

文章对PTT纤维及形态记忆面料的性能做了介绍,对PTT纤维记忆面料的染整工艺作了探讨。     

Weight reduction of microfibre polyester fabric and the effect on its physical and mechanical properties

For the present work, a heat‐set microfibre polyester woven fabric was treated with five different sodium hydroxide concentrations in similar conditions. Their physical and mechanical properties were studied and discussed. Changes in eight properties due to the weight reduction, i.e. surface properties, tear strength, crimp, compression, pressure recovery, crease recovery, abrasion and weave density which are reported in this work were not available for any type of weight reduced polyester fabrics in the cited literature. Results show that the weight reduction decreases yarn and fabric strength, fabric abrasion resistance, fabric tear strength and bending stiffness. On the other hand, it increases fabric thickness under low pressure, crease recovery angle, air permeability and drape of the fabric. The treatment showed no significant effect on the surface properties of the samples.     

Understanding the influence of fibre,yarn and fabric parameters on UV protection of wool-knitted fabrics

This work investigated the influence of fibre, yarn and fabric parameters on the UV protection of fabrics. It proposed a model for UV interaction based on a theoretical hypothesis, targeted experimentation and statistical analysis. Undyed and untreated wool-knitted fabrics with varying mean fibre diameter, yarn linear density, yarn twist, fabric cover factor and fabric structure were examined. A statistical model was presented to report the relationship between fibre/yarn/fabric parameters and fabric UPF values. An optical model on the interaction between the UV light and a single jersey fabric was constructed to understand the penetration of UV light. The models were verified by the UV transmittance results of knitted wool fabrics. The results obtained from the statistical and optical models were used to propose a set of optimized parameters for lightweight summer/spring UV-protective knitted fabrics. Testing confirmed that these fabric parameters provided both high UV protection and good tactile comfort.     

织物密度对水泥复合材料界面粘结的影响

通过 3种不同织物密度的尼龙纤维织物的拉出试验和抗折强度试验 ,研究了它们所增强的水泥复合材料的界面粘结状况和织物密度对水泥复合材料界面粘结性能的影响 ,并初步讨论了纱线捻度对织物增强水泥复合材料界面行为的作用。结果表明 :在平纹织物中 ,织物的密度 ,对它所增强的水泥复合材料界面行为的影响是双重性的。以经向密度为 80根/10cm ,纬向密度为 50根/10cm的尼龙纤维织物与水泥基体间的粘结状况最好。     

Wool fabric having thermal comfort management function via shape memory polyurethane finishing

Abstract

In this study, wool fabrics were treated with shape memory polyurethane (SMPU) at different concentrations (5–20?wt%) by using pad-dry-cure process. Transition temperature (T_g) of the SMPU was suitable for body temperature so as to create a fabric having smart breathability and insulation. FT-IR and SEM analyses were conducted for assessing polymer and wool fabric interactions. Air, water vapor permeability (WVP), and water absorption capacity tests of raw and SMPU treated fabrics were carried out within temperature range covering points lower and above T_g of the polymer (20–65?°C). Effects of relative humidity (RH) on WVP were also investigated with the tests carried out under differing RH values (20–80%). According to the results, wool fabrics treated with 10?wt% SMPU had the best smart transfer capability changing according to temperature and relative humidity. Its absorption capacity was also superior with its acceptable hand values according to bending rigidity results.     

利用织物实际弯曲形态测试其弯曲性质的算法

介绍了织物弯曲理论和测试方法的研究现状,提出了一种利用织物在自重作用下的实际弯曲形态间接测试织物弯曲性质的测试方法。详细叙述了该方法的测试原理,在此基础上利用数学多项式回归和微积分方法对实际弯曲形态曲线上的信息进行计算处理,提出了织物在自重作用下的弯矩与曲率、弯曲刚度与曲率关系的算法。利用此方法对织物进行测试,取得了很好的结果,与KES方法测试得到的弯曲刚度值对比,获得了很好的相关性验证。