Investigating the effect of material and weave design on comfort properties of bilayer-woven fabrics

The paper focuses on the development of a bilayer-woven fabric and investigating the effect of weave design and material type on its comfort properties. Face layer was plain woven with cotton yarn, while two different weave designs (2/2 and 3/1 twill) and four different materials (cotton, polyester, micropolyester and nylon) were used for the back layer. The comfort properties of fabric, including air permeability (AP), thermal resistance, water vapour resistance and overall moisture management capacity, were determined. It was found that both the layers of fabric as a whole contribute to the comfort properties of bilayer fabric. The highest AP was exhibited by fabrics having both layers of cotton, while 3/1 twill samples have a lower value of thermal resistance as compared to the 2/2 twill samples. The results further showed that micro polyester woven in 3/1 twill weave exhibits better comfort properties.     

色织衬衫面料的设计与开发

结合流行趋势,采用涤纶纱为原料,利用平纹、斜纹、小提花等组织与色纱排列的搭配,设计了4种女士色织衬衣面料,并上机织造了4块面料;对设计的系列织物的透气性、耐磨性、抗皱性和起毛起球性进行了测试分析,对色织衬衣面料的开发具有一定的参考.     

聚酯长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能

为研究聚酯(PET)长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能,利用PET长丝与纯棉纱开发了3种线密度为9.8 tex的纱线,并以二上二下斜纹组织织造了4种织物。对织物进行了折皱回复性、免烫性、尺寸稳定性、悬垂性等保形性能,强伸性、拉伸弹性、顶破性等抗变形性测试,以及手感风格、透湿性、透气性等服用性能测试。对比分析了纯棉纱织物与复合纱织物的保形性与服用性能。结果表明:PET长丝/棉复合纱可改善纯棉织物的折皱回复性、悬垂性,提高免烫等级,同时又不影响织物的服用性能;包芯纱织物比包缠纱织物有更好的保形性,更高的免烫等级,是免烫衬衫面料的理想选择。     

Y形涤纶纤维机织物的开发与性能分析

为了研究Y形涤纶纤维机织物的性能,利用Y形涤纶纤维的纯纺纱以及与棉纤维的混纺纱线,设计开发了16种平纹和斜纹组织织物,对其吸湿排汗性能如吸湿性、透湿性、 吸水性及快干性进行了测试与分析。结果表明：较稀疏、轻薄的混纺织物比纯纺织物透湿性好;而较紧密、厚实的纯纺织物比混纺织物透湿性好；随着织物组织结构紧密度和厚度的增加,Y形涤纶纤维织物的干燥速度下降。     

镀银纤维功能性织物的性能分析与优化设计

探究镀银纤维试制功能性纺织品的设计要点.选择锦纶基镀银纤维、棉纤维、涤纶纤维、锦纶纤维等多种材料,通过对经纬纱线的线密度、捻度、捻向、纤维成分、颜色及织物经纬密度、组织等进行系统设计,试制出了10种织物,并测试了这10种织物的防静电、导电、电磁屏蔽和防紫外线性能.测试结果表明,所试制的织物均具有良好的防静电性、导电性和电磁屏蔽性.指出,锦纶基镀银纤维织物的防静电、防紫外线、电磁屏蔽性能优良;对于防紫外线、电磁屏蔽性能而言,股线织物优于单纱织物,轻薄型织物优于中厚型织物,深色织物优于浅色织物.     

十字形涤纶机织物的吸湿排汗性能

为了解十字形涤纶机织物吸湿排汗性能,利用不同结构的十字形涤纶混纺纱线,设计开发了平纹和斜纹组织的交织物,并对其吸湿排汗性能如吸湿性、透气性、透湿性、吸水性及干燥性等进行测试,分析了纤维含量及织物结构对吸湿排汗性能的影响。测试结果表明,纤维含量及织物结构对十字形涤纶机织物的吸湿排汗性能都有一定的影响。     

氨纶的性能及其机织物的染整加工

对氨纶纤维的弹性、强度、耐热性、染色性能和耐化学药品性进行了分析。分别阐述了氨纶全棉机织物（包括平纹纬弹织物、斜纹和缎纹纬弹织物和经纬双弹织物）、锦棉氨纶织物、涤棉弹力织物、氨纶合捻线机织物、纬弹灯芯绒织物等品种的染整加工工艺。对于不同的氨纶织物品种应采取不同的加工工艺，特别是全棉纬弹斜纹和缎纹织物，对坯布就要分析其组织结构，再研究具体的工艺条件。     

高紧度形状记忆纤维/棉机织物的记忆性能

为探究高紧度状态下形状记忆机织物的记忆性能,设计开发了15种形状记忆纤维（SMF）在经纬向呈不同分布的高紧度形状记忆纤维/棉机织物,与参照织物一起进行形状记忆性能的测试,结果表明：织物的形变固定率（Rf）一致性程度较高;形状回复率（Rr）总体随SMF含量提高有增大趋势,此规律经向比纬向明显;织物某一向的紧度超过一定限度时,经纬纱之间的摩擦阻力将会造成另一向的形状回复性能不足;单向含SMF织物因拉伸载荷对另一向的收缩和剪切效应,使得织物另一向也具有一定的形状记忆性能;高紧度机织物在某一向SMF含量固定（或不含SMF）时,织物另一向的形状记忆性能随SMF含量增加而提高。     

微多孔聚酯短纤维织物的制备与性能

为了研究微多孔聚酯短纤维织物的湿传递性能,以165 dtex/48 f低弹涤纶网络丝为经纱、14.76 tex×2微多孔聚酯短纤维氨纶包缠纱为纬纱,根据不同的织物组织结构和有无亲水处理,开发了4种平纹和斜纹织物。比较不同组织结构和有无亲水处理织物的吸湿性能。结果表明:较为稀松的斜纹织物吸湿性要比紧密的平纹织物好;经亲水处理的织物吸湿性能与未经亲水处理的织物相差不大;微多孔聚酯纤维因自身具有较好的液态水传递能力,而无需亲水处理;用初始芯吸速率可表征织物液态水传递能力。     

The research on jacquard weaving technology of self,adhesive Song brocade bag fabric北大核心CSCD

In order to make the Song brocade bag fabric have self, adhesive function, low, melting polyester fiber and silk were interwoven as raw materials. The Song brocade fabric with self, adhesive function was made through interweaving two groups of warp and four groups of weft. The wraps are divided into the ground warp and surface warp with a ratio of 3, 1. The weft arrangement ratio is A, B, C, D =1, 1, 1, 1, of which D weft is a low, melting polyester fiber. The surface layer of ground wrap is warp twill (R = 3), and the surface ground weave displays the color of ground warp. Three surface pattern weaves are weft twill (R =3) with the surface warp and A, B, C wefts woven, and they display the color of A, B, C weft respectively. D weft is backed on the reverse side of fabric, and it is the long floating line so that low, melting polyester fiber is backed on the reverse side of fabric. The Song brocade fabric was overlaid with the layer of lining fabric used to make bags keep certain shape. Meanwhile, they were heated by high temperature to make the two layers of fabrics bonded together. This process is not only more efficient in production, but also more environmentally friendly and safer, compared with the bonding process of common bags. © 2018 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.     

Relations between Fabric Structure and Friction: Part II: Weft Knitted Fabrics

Abstract

In the earlier part of the series (Jeddi et al., 2003) the authors defined a new index for the structural asperity of woven fabrics and found the relationship between this index and fabric frictional parameters. In this part, the authors develop this definition for weft knitted fabrics and introduce a ‘Fabric Structural Asperity Index’ (FSAI) for interlock gating of knitted structures. This index, which can be explained as the ratio of miss stitches to the total number of needles in a structural knit cell, shows a good relation with frictional resistance parameters of the course over course direction of motion.

The experimental results show that the static and dynamic frictional resistances of the course over course motion are higher than the wale over wale motion. The values of frictional forces for different structures have no statistical difference in the wale over wale direction of motion. This paper also studies the effectiveness of the structural cell stitch length and fiber content on the frictional behavior of the fabrics.     

织物组织结构对衬衫面料撕破强力的影响

探讨织物组织结构对衬衫面料撕破强力的影响.以纯棉、棉涤混纺、棉涤混纺加少量天丝为原料,织造不同组织结构的织物：平纹、斜纹及纵条纹组织,所有试样均采用同样的液氨免烫后整理工艺.采用冲击摆锤法测定织物的撕破强力,并且从紧度比对撕破强力、织物组织对纯棉试样撕破强力,以及原料对撕破强力的影响三个方面进行分析.结果表明,随着织物的经纬向紧度比增大,织物的纬向撕破强力呈递增趋势;对于常见规格的纯棉织物,平纹组织的经、纬向撕破强力均小于其他组织,尤其是纬向撕破强力较容易出现不合格情况,斜纹组织织物的撕破强力较高,纵条组织织物的撕破强力因组成条纹的各基本组织的配置不同而不同,其撕破强力一般介于平纹和斜纹组织织物之间;在棉涤混纺加入少量天丝时,平纹组织织物的撕破强力会明显提高.产品设计中合理设计织物结构,使经纬向紧度比增大,可以提高纬向的撕破强力.     

Determinants of electrical resistance change of in situ PPy-polymerized stretch plain woven fabric under uniaxial tensile strain

Although the conductive stretchable woven fabric has been widely used as the sensitive material of strain sensors monitoring human motion, it is lack of a deep understanding of the determinants of its electrical resistance change under uniaxial tensile strain. This study chose two kinds of typical stretchable plain woven fabric, i.e. cotton/spandex core-spun yarn fabric and polyester/spandex filament yarn fabric, and they were coated by in situ polymerization of polypyrrole. Their electromechanical responses under certain uniaxial tensile loadings were measured and compared. Meanwhile, by a multi-architecture analysis, i.e. the intrinsic resistance of yarns, the contact resistance of interlacing yarns and the contact resistance of adjacent yarns in parallel, several hypotheses were proposed and tested to determine the determinants of electrical resistance change under tensile strains. The results showed that the resistance change in woven fabric with in situ polymerization of polypyrrole mainly depends on the contact resistance of the adjacent conductive yarns in tensile direction, and the electromechanical responses of the cotton/spandex core spun yarn are significantly different from those of the polyester/spandex filament yarn. It was concluded that the conductive yarn density and fabric structure are critical parameters of woven fabric as resistive strain sensor.     

Inspecting anisotropy in wrinkle recovery angle of woven fabric

In this paper, the anisotropic wrinkle recovery properties of plain and twill fabrics are explored by studying the variations of the wrinkle recovery angle with sample orientation angle. Orientation angle is the angle measured counterclockwise from the weft direction to the sample’s long axis, that is, the crease direction. This study focused on inspecting anisotropy in wrinkle recovery to find more effective test angles for different woven fabrics. A dynamic wrinkle recovery tester was used to measure the recovery angles of specimens automatically which were cut in various directions. The trend of plain fabrics shows that its recovery angle generally increases at first and then decreases with the increase in the orientation angle. The trend of twill fabrics differs in folding ways. The experimental results revealed that the wrinkle recovery angles of the woven fabrics had the lowest values near the orientation angles of 0° and 90°, i.e. the warp and weft directions, and therefore these two traditionally used directions in the standard test method did not best reflect the wrinkle recovery yielded from both warps and wefts. The diagonal direction (45°) was proven to be the optimal orientation angle for a balanced plain fabric, while the two orthogonal directions, i.e. the twill direction and its perpendicular direction, were found to be more relevant for a twill fabric. Optimal orientation angles used to test the wrinkle recovery angle of a woven fabric should be associated with its structure.     

家庭滚筒洗衣机洗涤温度对机织物外观平整性的影响

家庭滚筒洗衣机洗涤衣物时,水、洗涤温度的共同作用对织物外观平整性影响显著,合适的温度设定有助于洗衣机的参数优化。文中选取5种常见白色普通整理的机织物,在滚筒洗衣机温度分别为室温20、30、45、60、75 ℃条件下洗涤,测试其洗后外观平整度、洗涤前后弯曲刚度及剪切刚度等指标。研究发现,洗涤温度较低时,机织物外观平整度较好;洗涤温度增大时,机织物平整度降低,洗后弯曲刚度及剪切刚度减小。纯棉织物20℃与75℃洗后的平整度最大差值为1.6级;涤纶织物20℃与75℃洗后的平整度最大差值为3.8级,洗涤温度对涤纶织物平整度的影响较棉织物大。研究成果可为机织物家庭滚筒洗涤温度的设置提供依据。     

玻璃纤维织物的自动几何建模研究

织物的组织结构与其性能有很大的关系。通过设计并织造了四种不同组织(二维方平组织、3/1斜纹组织、双层斜纹组织,以及三维角连锁组织)、不同厚度的玻璃纤维织物,并对它们的几何形态进行模拟。结果表明,根据纱线的物理结构参数和织物的实际照片创建织物几何模型可行,且模型能够反映纱线的空间结构。     

An investigation into the effect of fabric structure on the compressional properties of woven fabrics

Lateral compression is one of the most important mechanical aspects of fabrics, which reflects their handle. Fabric compressional features depend on the compressional characteristics of constituent yarns and the fabric structure. In order to consider the effect of fabric structural parameters on its compressional properties, woven fabrics with five different weave patterns (plain, hopsack 2/2, twill 2/2, twill 3/1, warp rib 2/2) were produced with three different nominal weft densities (12, 15, 18 cm^?1). The compressional properties of produced fabrics were evaluated at different pressure values using a conventional fabric thickness tester. It was observed that increasing the weft density leads to decrease in the dissipated compression energy as well as the compressibility of the fabric, while the thickness recovery of the fabric increases. Moreover, the plain woven fabric exhibited the lowest dissipated compression energy and compressibility, while the highest thickness recovery. Besides, at the low pressure level, the fabrics with the lower weft densities demonstrate the higher thickness. By increase in the pressure level, the fabric thickness decreases by decreasing the weft density.     

Effect of woven fabric structure on the air permeability and moisture management properties

In this study, six different woven samples were produced on air jet loom with two different weave designs (i.e. 3/1 twill and 1/1 plain), three different picking sequences (i.e. single pick insertion (SPI), double pick insertion (DPI) and three pick insertion (3PI)). All the woven samples were singed, desized, bleached and finished together at industrial scale, as a single lot. The effect of these factors on the wetting, wicking and air permeability (AP) of the fabric samples was analysed. It was revealed that the fabric weave design and picking sequence has statistically significant effect on fabric wetting time, water spreading speed and AP of the fabric. It was found that fabrics woven in twill weave design and with simultaneous 3PI give significantly better AP, shorter wetting time and better water spreading rate as compared to plain woven fabrics and those with double or SPI. It could be concluded that the thermophysiological comfort of woven fabrics may be significantly improved simply by selecting a suitable weave design and picking sequence.     

芳纶/不锈钢纤维混纺机织物电磁屏蔽性能研究

为制备综合性能优异的电磁屏蔽织物,采用芳纶/不锈钢纤维混纺纱,通过改变组织结构、厚度、叠合角度的方法来织造电磁屏蔽织物,并分析其电磁屏蔽性能。结果表明:三原组织中,平纹织物的电磁屏蔽效能最佳,缎纹织物的电磁屏蔽效能最差;织物厚度增加,电磁屏蔽效能随之增强;织物叠合角度为45°时明显优于叠合角度0°和90°时的电磁屏蔽效能;芳纶/不锈钢纤维混纺机织物还具有优异的阻燃性能、机械性能和耐水洗性能。     

莱赛尔舒适面料的设计与开发

莱赛尔纤维服用性能优异,不仅具有较高的干湿强力,其织造的面料拥有很好的舒适性,原料资源可再生,生产过程低碳无毒,产品能完全降解。根据莱赛尔纤维的特性,从密实、透孔2种组织结构着手,设计了3/1右斜纹、四枚经面破斜纹及透孔织物,并在半自动电子多臂小样织机上进行了产品试织。结果表明,透孔织物设计时经纬浮线长的分布是影响织物透气性的重要参数,同时也要考虑采取合适的上机参数,如经向采取空筘,纬向采取间歇式卷取等方式,来改善织物的孔隙效应。