机织物折皱回复各向异性的研究

针对织物的各向异性,研究了纯棉平纹和斜纹织物的折皱回复性能随取向角变化的情况。采用织物折皱回复动态测试仪测量不同取向角的动态回复指标,包括初始回复速率、急弹时间、急弹回复角度、缓弹时间、缓弹回复角度。结果表明,仅回复角度随取向角变化存在一定规律性,平纹织物的折皱回复角度随着取向角的增加呈现先增大后减小的趋势,斜纹织物正面对折和反面对折试样的趋势有所不同。试验证明了织物对角线方向能较全面反映结构均匀平纹织物的折皱回复性能,斜纹斜向和其垂直方向能作为斜纹织物的测试角度。     

织物折皱回复的各向异性表征

针对织物折皱回复存在各向异性且难以描述的问题,将通过研究试样取向角与其对应的折皱回复角的关系,寻找更科学的织物折皱回复性能表征方法。选择纯棉平纹和斜纹织物为实验材料,从经纱方向（取向角定为0°）顺时针旋转,每隔15°取一试样,平纹织物取样角度范围为0°~90°,斜纹织物取样角度范围为0°~180°。通过机器视觉测量每一试样的折皱回复角,结果表明：平纹织物可用15°和75°取向角对应的折皱回复角均值表征织物折皱回复性能;斜纹织物折皱回复角与其纹路角度密切相关,对于左斜120°左右的斜纹织物,正面用取向角15°、105°、120°的折皱回复角均值,反面用取向角0°、60°、120°的折皱回复角均值来表示织物折皱回复性能更加合理。     

纯棉纱线合股数对织物性能的影响

为研究纯棉纱线合股数对织物力学性能和保形性的影响,采用线密度相同的单纱、双股线、3股线、4股线4种股线类型,以适当的经、纬密分别织制成平纹、斜纹、缎纹组织的织物。对织物的拉伸性能、撕裂强力、拉伸弹性、折皱回复性、悬垂性、弯曲性进行测试与分析。结果表明:3股线织物的断裂强力和撕裂强力较大,4股线织物的断裂伸长率较大,双股线织物的拉伸弹性回复率较大;平纹织物仅有双股线织物的折皱回复性优于单股线织物,斜纹和缎纹织物的折皱回复性随合股数的增加均变差;双股线平纹织物悬垂性相对较好,但均没有斜纹和缎纹织物的悬垂性好;单纱织物的弯曲性能比股线织物好。     

Evaluating the crease recovery performance of woven fabrics considering bending behaviour in various directions

Since the woven fabric is used on the 3D body, it encounters bending deformation and crease in various directions. Due to the prominence of these deformations in the appearance of the garment, the inspection of bending and crease recovery behaviour of fabric in different directions needs to be considered. In this paper, the evaluation of bending rigidity and crease recovery of fabrics is carried out in various directions. Analysis of the results revealed that fabric-bending rigidity could be expressed as a sinusoidal function of sample orientation towards warp direction. For all the studied fabrics, from warp axis to bias direction, bending rigidity follows a descending trend, however; crease recovery angle has an ascending tendency. Reverse variations were achieved for both properties from bias direction to weft axis due to the variant warp and weft yarn contributions in each direction. Hence, the lowest bending rigidity was obtained in the bias direction (45°), while the highest crease recovery angle was recorded for the mentioned direction. Moreover, an exponential function is utilized to express the non-linear relation between bending rigidity and the crease recovery in different directions of the fabric. The statistical analysis of the results clarified that the effect of fabric direction and structural parameters on the bending and crease recovery behaviour is significant in the confidence range of 95%.     

Modeling and optimizing the frictional behavior of woven fabrics in climatic conditions using response surface methodology

Frictional characteristics of woven fabrics can determine smoothness and softness values of textiles. In this paper, we have studied the influence of factors such as temperature, relative humidity, fabric structure, type of fiber material, and direction of motion on roughness properties of fabric surface using response surface method (RSM). For this purpose, woven fabrics with plain, rib2/2, twill2/2, twill1/3, twill3/1, twill1/7, and twill7/1 were produced with polyester warp yarn and two different weft yarns (cotton and polyester). Then, a statistical model (RSM) was used for the experimental plan (with these variables) to determine the runs of experiment (or selected points). Next, the frictional forces measurement was carried out on the fabrics in those directions. The experimental results showed that fabric-to-fabric friction (static frictional resistance, kinetic frictional resistance, and smoothness of woven fabrics) is highly sensitive to factors like relative humidity, fabric structure, type of fiber material, and direction of motion while temperature factor (in the range 0–50°C) has no sensitive effect on frictional parameters.     

Anisotropy in wrinkle properties of woven fabric

In this paper, the wrinkle resistance of plain fabrics woven with weft yarn in S‐ and Z‐twist directions and at various twist levels in different test directions has been measured and then analysed. Results show that the wrinkle resistance increases as the weft yarn twist increases. The wrinkle properties of the fabric show that the direction of test has an obvious effect on the results and the wrinkle resistance depends on the method of folding such as face‐to‐face and back‐to‐back methods. The experimental results showed that there is anisotropy in wrinkle properties of the fabric made of yarns with different twist directions. When the fabric is folded face‐to‐face and the weft twist direction is S, the wrinkle resistance of fabric in various test directions shows a convex curvature, whereas when the same fabric is folded in a back‐to‐back manner then results show a linear curvature. This means that the wrinkle resistance of a fabric differs in various directions and in the method of folding (back‐to‐back or face‐to‐face) and shows an anisotropic wrinkle resistance nature.     

织物紧度和抗皱整理工艺对纯棉机织物折皱回复性的影响

为提升棉织物的抗皱性能,研究了织物紧度和抗皱整理工艺的协同作用对棉织物抗皱性能的影响.选取了不同紧度的斜纹、平纹2组棉织物试样,测试了其在抗皱整理前后的急弹与延迟回复角、表面形貌和化学结构.在实验基础上,结合双因素方差分析,确认了织物紧度、树脂质量浓度双因素的协同作用对织物抗皱性影响的显著性,分析了双因素单独和协同情况...     

纯棉织物折皱回复角与其组织结构参数的关系

为从织物自身组织结构方面优化纯棉织物的折皱性,首先设计织物组织结构参数并制备织物,利用数字式织物折皱弹性仪测得织物的折皱回复角。在此基础上,建立纯棉织物经、纬向和总折皱回复角与织物组织结构参数(包括经纬纱线密度、经纬纱捻度、经纬向密度)之间的线性回归方程;同时分析织物折皱回复角与各组织结构参数间的相关性。结果表明:回归方程的计算值与折皱回复角实测值绝对误差不超过0.61°,回归方程具有较高的实用性;经纬纱捻度、线密度对纯棉织物的折皱回复性影响最大,可通过提高经纬纱捻度、降低经纬纱线密度来改善纯棉织物的抗皱性。     

An investigation into the effect of fabric structure on the compressional properties of woven fabrics

Lateral compression is one of the most important mechanical aspects of fabrics, which reflects their handle. Fabric compressional features depend on the compressional characteristics of constituent yarns and the fabric structure. In order to consider the effect of fabric structural parameters on its compressional properties, woven fabrics with five different weave patterns (plain, hopsack 2/2, twill 2/2, twill 3/1, warp rib 2/2) were produced with three different nominal weft densities (12, 15, 18 cm^?1). The compressional properties of produced fabrics were evaluated at different pressure values using a conventional fabric thickness tester. It was observed that increasing the weft density leads to decrease in the dissipated compression energy as well as the compressibility of the fabric, while the thickness recovery of the fabric increases. Moreover, the plain woven fabric exhibited the lowest dissipated compression energy and compressibility, while the highest thickness recovery. Besides, at the low pressure level, the fabrics with the lower weft densities demonstrate the higher thickness. By increase in the pressure level, the fabric thickness decreases by decreasing the weft density.     

精纺毛织物折皱回复性研究

选取了24种精纺毛织物,将织物沿0°、10°、20°、30°、40°、45°、50°、60°、70°、80°、90°方向裁剪成11个试样,然后用YG541E型全自动激光织物折皱弹性测试仪测试了24块毛织物在11个方向下的急弹性和缓弹性折皱回复角。经过数据处理得出以下结论:毛织物的平均急弹性回复角(X)和平均缓弹性回复角(Y)之间具有高度正相关关系,且Y=0.9219X+20.275,可以应用此公式由急弹性回复角计算缓弹性回复角,以减少测试工作量;建议今后对毛织物进行折皱回复性测试与评价时,为提高评价准确性,经向、纬向以及45°斜向需一起考虑。     

棉/不锈钢长丝机织物的电磁屏蔽及折皱回复性能

为研究组织结构与磨损对织物屏蔽性能的影响,以及不锈钢长丝对织物折皱回复性的影响,使用自制的棉/不锈钢长丝包芯纱织制了3种不同组织的机织物,测试了织物在0.3~1 500 MHz频段上的电磁屏蔽性能,并使用平磨仪对各织物分别摩擦60、120、180、240 及300次后,测试了织物磨损后的电磁屏蔽性能;同时,采用视频序列法测试了织物的动态折皱回复角。结果表明：织物组织结构对电磁屏蔽性能有一定影响,平纹组织结构紧密,屏蔽效果好;经过若干次磨损后,织物的电磁屏蔽性能先小幅升高后逐渐降低;相同磨损条件下,试样耐磨性越好,屏蔽效能的降低幅度越小;由于不锈钢长丝的加入使织物的折皱回复性降低,可以采用浮长更长的组织改善织物起皱现象。     

Comparison of artificial neural network and adaptive neuro-fuzzy inference system for predicting the wrinkle recovery of woven fabrics

The aim of this study was to compare the artificial neural network (ANN) and adaptive neuro-fuzzy inference system (ANFIS) models for predicting the wrinkle recovery of polyester/cotton woven fabrics. The prediction models were developed using experimental data-set of 115 fabric samples of different constructions. Warp and weft yarn linear densities, ends/25 mm and picks/25 mm, were used as input/predictor variables, and warp and weft crease recovery angles (CRA) as output/response variables. It was found that the prediction accuracy of the ANN models was slightly better as compared with that of ANFIS models developed in this study. However, the ANFIS models could characterize the relationships between the input and output variables through surface plots, which the ANN models could not. The developed models may be used to optimize the fabric construction parameters for maximizing the wrinkle recovery of polyester/cotton woven fabrics.     

组织结构对UHMWPE短纤纱织物防刺性能的影响

UHMWPE短纤纱具有优秀的抗切割性与较好的树脂浸润性,非常适用于制作防刺材料。文章试织了12种不同织物规格的试样,进行准静态穿刺实验,探究5种因素(组织、紧度、纱线线密度、经纬密和面密度)对织物防刺性能的影响,并比较不同穿刺角度下织物防刺性能的差异。结果表明:与方平织物与接结双层织物相比,平纹织物的防刺性能最好;同种经纬密或同紧度下,粗特纱织制的平纹织物防刺性能好;随着经密增加,紧度增加,面密度增加,防刺性能逐渐增加,但织物过于紧密时,防刺性能反而降低;平纹织物的穿刺性能具有各向异性,经纬向的防刺性能优于45°方向。     

织物组织结构对衬衫面料撕破强力的影响

探讨织物组织结构对衬衫面料撕破强力的影响.以纯棉、棉涤混纺、棉涤混纺加少量天丝为原料,织造不同组织结构的织物：平纹、斜纹及纵条纹组织,所有试样均采用同样的液氨免烫后整理工艺.采用冲击摆锤法测定织物的撕破强力,并且从紧度比对撕破强力、织物组织对纯棉试样撕破强力,以及原料对撕破强力的影响三个方面进行分析.结果表明,随着织物的经纬向紧度比增大,织物的纬向撕破强力呈递增趋势;对于常见规格的纯棉织物,平纹组织的经、纬向撕破强力均小于其他组织,尤其是纬向撕破强力较容易出现不合格情况,斜纹组织织物的撕破强力较高,纵条组织织物的撕破强力因组成条纹的各基本组织的配置不同而不同,其撕破强力一般介于平纹和斜纹组织织物之间;在棉涤混纺加入少量天丝时,平纹组织织物的撕破强力会明显提高.产品设计中合理设计织物结构,使经纬向紧度比增大,可以提高纬向的撕破强力.     

色织衬衫面料的设计与开发

结合流行趋势,采用涤纶纱为原料,利用平纹、斜纹、小提花等组织与色纱排列的搭配,设计了4种女士色织衬衣面料,并上机织造了4块面料;对设计的系列织物的透气性、耐磨性、抗皱性和起毛起球性进行了测试分析,对色织衬衣面料的开发具有一定的参考.     

几种不同组织结构的衬衫面料保形性研究

根据常见的衬衫面料组织结构,使用JC9.7 tex纱线设计了6种不同组织结构的面料,研究不同组织结构对织物保形性的影响。对面料的保形性(尺寸稳定性、抗折皱性、外观平整度、抗起毛起球性、顶破性、悬垂性)及舒适性(透气、透湿性)进行了测试。结果表明:组织结构对织物的折皱回复角、外观平整度等级、顶破强力、透湿量与透气率有直接影响;织物紧度太大、太小都不利于织物的折皱回复,相同紧度下斜纹组织的抗皱性比平纹好;6种组织结构中2/2斜纹组织抗折皱性最好,2/2方平组织的顶破强力、抗起毛起球等级最高,2/2破斜纹透气、透湿性最好,2/2斜纹组织具有良好的保形性。     

精纺毛织物结构参数与折皱回复性的关系

为探究精纺毛织物结构参数与折皱性能的关系,收集了18 种精纺毛织物,应用JN-1型织物折皱回复性能动态测试仪进行折皱回复角测试,通过数据分析,得出结构参数与折皱回复角间的关系。为了进一步分析各结构参数对织物抗皱性能的影响程度,找出对折皱回复角影响较大的结构参数,同时研究了织物结构参数与折皱回复角的相关性。结果表明：精纺毛织物的折皱回复性不仅与织物原料、纱线线密度和捻度有关,还与织物经纬密、织物紧度以及面密度有关;除了纤维原料以外,纱线捻度对织物折皱回复性的影响最为显著。     

玻璃纤维织物在剪切变形作用下的渗透率

为研究织物剪切变形对纤维增强材料渗透行为的影响,采用真空导入模塑工艺测试玻璃纤维织物预成型体的表观渗透率。结果表明：剪切变形降低了预成型体的渗透率;对于斜纹织物,不同的剪切方向使纤维增强材料的渗透率呈现一定的差异,在剪切角为10°时,异向剪切的渗透率较同向剪切高出约26%;对于不同织物组织,剪切 变形下的渗透率差异显著;一般情况下,随着剪切角的增大纤维增强材料的渗透率逐渐下降,当织物剪切30°后,其渗透率平均下降约50%,但平纹织物在剪切角为10°时,渗透率却略有上升;剪切变形引起了织物整体渗透行为的改变,流动前峰的形状由一条平行于纬纱的直线逐渐变化成倾斜的直线。     

The effect of yarn twist direction on the formability of woven fabrics

This experimental work examines the influence of the yarn twist on the formability of a woven fabric. Consideration is given to the phenomenon of bedding between warp and weft yarns, as affected by the local helix angles of bent yarns. A total of 28 plain weave woven fabrics (four groups, each with seven samples) were produced, using Solospun? yarns as warp and weft threads. The fabric bending length and the initial modulus of each sample were measured from which the formability was calculated. Results indicated that the fabrics in which the warp and weft twists are unidirectional (Z &; Z) have higher formability in comparison to those fabrics in which the warp and weft twists are opposite to each other (Z &; S). In addition, among the former fabrics the highest formability belongs to those in which the total helix angle of the warp and weft is close to 90 degree whereas the lowest formability belongs to the latter fabrics with least amount of twist.     

广角机织物的织造工艺及其偏轴拉伸力学性能

为开发适用于不同应用领域的产业用纺织品,在对原有普通剑杆织机改进的基础上,探讨了广角机织物的织造工艺,织造了经纱和纬纱夹角为120°的涤/棉平纹广角机织物。借助万能材料试验机研究了普通涤/棉正交织物和广角机织物不同偏轴方向的拉伸力学性能,获得了其应力-应变曲线和特征值变化规律,并分析了其变形及失效模式。结果表明:对于普通正交机织物和广角机织物,其拉伸断裂强力均呈现出明显的极轴特性;在断裂强力相同的情况下,与普通正交机织物相比,广角机织物纬向的断裂伸长率提高了30%,经、纬向弹性模量分别提高了42%和79%,展现出优异的强度和变形特征。