织物折皱回复的各向异性表征

针对织物折皱回复存在各向异性且难以描述的问题,将通过研究试样取向角与其对应的折皱回复角的关系,寻找更科学的织物折皱回复性能表征方法。选择纯棉平纹和斜纹织物为实验材料,从经纱方向（取向角定为0°）顺时针旋转,每隔15°取一试样,平纹织物取样角度范围为0°~90°,斜纹织物取样角度范围为0°~180°。通过机器视觉测量每一试样的折皱回复角,结果表明：平纹织物可用15°和75°取向角对应的折皱回复角均值表征织物折皱回复性能;斜纹织物折皱回复角与其纹路角度密切相关,对于左斜120°左右的斜纹织物,正面用取向角15°、105°、120°的折皱回复角均值,反面用取向角0°、60°、120°的折皱回复角均值来表示织物折皱回复性能更加合理。     

Anisotropy in wrinkle properties of woven fabric

In this paper, the wrinkle resistance of plain fabrics woven with weft yarn in S‐ and Z‐twist directions and at various twist levels in different test directions has been measured and then analysed. Results show that the wrinkle resistance increases as the weft yarn twist increases. The wrinkle properties of the fabric show that the direction of test has an obvious effect on the results and the wrinkle resistance depends on the method of folding such as face‐to‐face and back‐to‐back methods. The experimental results showed that there is anisotropy in wrinkle properties of the fabric made of yarns with different twist directions. When the fabric is folded face‐to‐face and the weft twist direction is S, the wrinkle resistance of fabric in various test directions shows a convex curvature, whereas when the same fabric is folded in a back‐to‐back manner then results show a linear curvature. This means that the wrinkle resistance of a fabric differs in various directions and in the method of folding (back‐to‐back or face‐to‐face) and shows an anisotropic wrinkle resistance nature.     

织物折皱回复角测试方法比较

针对现有测量方法存在的测试过程自动化程度低,测量结果精度不高等弊端,以YG541E型全自动激光织物折皱弹性测试仪、SDL-M003A型折皱回复角试验机和自主研发基于视频序列的JN-1型织物折皱回复性能动态测试仪为测试仪器,将折皱回复角变异系数CV值作为评价指标,对比了3种织物折皱回复角测试方法。结果表明,基于视频序列的JN-1型织物折皱回复性能动态测试仪测量结果准确、稳定,且具有自动化程度高的特点,可为织物折皱回复性能的测试提供可靠有效的技术手段。     

织物折皱回复角的计算

利用标准固体单元和滑块并联组成的模型,在织物摩擦约束力偶与其弯曲曲率成正比的假设下,对织物的弯曲和折皱回复进行了分析,并用纯弯曲实验得到的数据计算出织物的模型参数,从而计算出织物在不同时刻的回复角,平纹织物的理论预期与实测结果符合较好。     

织物折皱回复力的测试研究

分析了织物产生折皱及回复的过程,指出形成折皱的过程是与时间有关的松弛过程,织物折皱回复能力的大小,取决于折皱回复力和摩擦阻力之间的相对平衡关系.采用自制装置测量织物距折痕不同距离的初始折皱回复力发现,距折痕距离越大初始折皱回复力越小,并且随着折皱过程中外部压力作用时间的增大,初始折皱回复力不断减小,折皱回复角也不断减小,其变化规律符合负指数关系.     

基于视频序列的织物折皱回复角动态测量

针对现有织物折皱回复性能测量方法存在仅能静态测量某时刻织物折皱回复角度值的不足,本文提出了基于视频序列的织物折皱回复角度动态测量方法。按AATCC66-2008标准要求,以SDL-M003折皱回复角试验机的负载装置压试样,再将试样置于视频序列采集系统中,对采集到的单帧图像依次进行二值化、细化预处理,采用Hough变换检测图像中织物折皱回复两翼对应的角度,进而获得折皱回复角。试验结果显示,基于视频序列的方法与AATCC66-2008测量方法的结果接近,表明了基于视频序列方法的可行性,并且该方法可以精确描述织物折皱回复的动态过程,为实现新的折皱回复性能指标的提出奠定了实验基础。     

棉/不锈钢长丝机织物的电磁屏蔽及折皱回复性能

为研究组织结构与磨损对织物屏蔽性能的影响,以及不锈钢长丝对织物折皱回复性的影响,使用自制的棉/不锈钢长丝包芯纱织制了3种不同组织的机织物,测试了织物在0.3~1 500 MHz频段上的电磁屏蔽性能,并使用平磨仪对各织物分别摩擦60、120、180、240 及300次后,测试了织物磨损后的电磁屏蔽性能;同时,采用视频序列法测试了织物的动态折皱回复角。结果表明：织物组织结构对电磁屏蔽性能有一定影响,平纹组织结构紧密,屏蔽效果好;经过若干次磨损后,织物的电磁屏蔽性能先小幅升高后逐渐降低;相同磨损条件下,试样耐磨性越好,屏蔽效能的降低幅度越小;由于不锈钢长丝的加入使织物的折皱回复性降低,可以采用浮长更长的组织改善织物起皱现象。     

Comparison of artificial neural network and adaptive neuro-fuzzy inference system for predicting the wrinkle recovery of woven fabrics

The aim of this study was to compare the artificial neural network (ANN) and adaptive neuro-fuzzy inference system (ANFIS) models for predicting the wrinkle recovery of polyester/cotton woven fabrics. The prediction models were developed using experimental data-set of 115 fabric samples of different constructions. Warp and weft yarn linear densities, ends/25 mm and picks/25 mm, were used as input/predictor variables, and warp and weft crease recovery angles (CRA) as output/response variables. It was found that the prediction accuracy of the ANN models was slightly better as compared with that of ANFIS models developed in this study. However, the ANFIS models could characterize the relationships between the input and output variables through surface plots, which the ANN models could not. The developed models may be used to optimize the fabric construction parameters for maximizing the wrinkle recovery of polyester/cotton woven fabrics.     

织物折皱回复角与其力学性能指标间的关系

为探究较精确、易行的测试和表征织物折皱回复角的方法,首先采用KES-F织物风格仪测试了织物的弯曲、剪切、拉伸和压缩性能,并在KES系统原有力学性能指标基础上引入2个新指标:残余弯曲曲率和残余剪切变形,进而通过数据分析建立了采用织物力学性能指标表示其经、纬向折皱回复角的回归方程;同时分析了织物折皱回复角与各力学性能指标间的相关性.结果表明:回归方程的计算值与折皱回复角的实测值差异不超过0.1°:拉伸功回复率、拉伸比功和弯曲刚度对织物折皱回复性的影响最大,可以通过提高织物的抗拉伸、弯曲和剪切性能及拉伸功回复率来改善织物的抗皱性.     

试验参数对棉织物回复角测试结果的影响

为更加快速和准确地测试棉织物的折皱回复角,基于研究室自主研发的JN-1型织物折皱回复性能动态测试仪,以 2 种棉织物为试样,选取样本容量、施加压力、加压时间和回复时间为试验参数,对织物进行折皱回复角测试并进行对比分析。结果表明,当测试样本容量为10个、施加压力为5 N、加压时间为5 min、回复时间为5 min时,测试结果具有相当高的准确性和稳定性,同时兼顾了试验的工作量和工作效率。     

织物紧度和抗皱整理工艺对纯棉机织物折皱回复性的影响

为提升棉织物的抗皱性能,研究了织物紧度和抗皱整理工艺的协同作用对棉织物抗皱性能的影响.选取了不同紧度的斜纹、平纹2组棉织物试样,测试了其在抗皱整理前后的急弹与延迟回复角、表面形貌和化学结构.在实验基础上,结合双因素方差分析,确认了织物紧度、树脂质量浓度双因素的协同作用对织物抗皱性影响的显著性,分析了双因素单独和协同情况...     

基于原位力学测试的织物折皱回复性表征

针对现有基于折皱回复角和外观平整度的织物折皱回复性评价方法在织物品种适应性和评价结果稳定性等方面的缺陷,提出织物折皱回复性的原位力学测试方法。通过解析原位力学测试原理,基于所测的力-位移测试曲线,提取用于表征织物折皱回复性的3个评价指标;并通过与织物折皱回复角变异系数的对比分析,说明原位力学测试方法的可靠性和稳定性好于折皱回复角法;采用相关性分析发现,折皱特征指标和织物折皱回复角在0.01水平下显著相关,表明原位力学测试方法可有效评价织物的折皱回复性能,并基于折皱特征指标构建了织物折皱回复角的多元回归模型,可用于织物折皱回复性能的全面、客观表征。     

精纺毛织物结构参数与折皱回复性的关系

为探究精纺毛织物结构参数与折皱性能的关系,收集了18 种精纺毛织物,应用JN-1型织物折皱回复性能动态测试仪进行折皱回复角测试,通过数据分析,得出结构参数与折皱回复角间的关系。为了进一步分析各结构参数对织物抗皱性能的影响程度,找出对折皱回复角影响较大的结构参数,同时研究了织物结构参数与折皱回复角的相关性。结果表明：精纺毛织物的折皱回复性不仅与织物原料、纱线线密度和捻度有关,还与织物经纬密、织物紧度以及面密度有关;除了纤维原料以外,纱线捻度对织物折皱回复性的影响最为显著。     

芯丝种类对织物抗皱性及抗变形性的影响

文章采用全聚纺纺纱方式生产了JC/PET、JC/PTT、JC/SPH、JC/T400四种包芯纱和一种纯棉纱,利用这五种纱线织造了规格相同的五种机织物。分别利用客观与主观评价法,评价织物的抗皱性及平整度等级,同时测试了织物的拉伸弹性回复率,以研究芯丝种类对织物抗皱性及抗变形性的影响。结果表明:芯丝的加入可以改善纯棉织物的平整度;长丝的初始模量、弹性影响织物的抗皱等级,SPH的初始模量最高、T400的弹性回复性最好,因此JC/SPH和JC/T400包芯纱织物抗皱等级最高,可以达到3. 5级;且这两种长丝的表面均有沟槽,截面为异形,起到毛细管作用,其织物具有较好的吸湿排汗作用,是开发高保形免烫衬衫面料的理想选择。     

Modelling crease recovery behaviour of woven fabrics

Crease recovery behaviour is an important property of fabrics for apparel applications. A theoretical model is developed in which the fabric is represented by an elastic element and a frictional element. The frictional restraint is assumed to be proportional to the square root of the curvature of the fabric during deformation. An energy method is applied to the study of crease recovery behaviour of the fabric. Equations of crease recovery work and crease recovery force as a function of curvature are derived. Two basic parameters are needed to characterise the fabric in the crease recovery model: the bending rigidity and bending hysteresis of the fabric; both are readily measured in a pure bending test. Good agreement is observed between experimental data and theoretical predictions for wool/polyester blended and worsted fabrics.     

模拟实际着装的织物抗皱性测试方法

针对现有的织物抗皱性测试方法不能直接用来表征穿着过程引起的折皱这一现象,提出一种可模拟实际着装的织物抗皱性测试方法。构建了模拟装置,并利用图像处理技术提取了折皱密度。经20块织物的相关实验验证得出：模拟方法与实际着装产生的折皱非常相似,说明模拟方法具有一定的可行性,且其测试稳定性好于折皱回复角法;0°折皱回复角与折皱密度的相关性最大,随后是45°,建议增加45°折皱回复角的测试,以使测试结果更能表征实际着装时织物的折皱变形能力;建立了多元回归模型,此模型可用来预测实际着装时的折皱密度,无需经过工作量繁重的服装制作和实际穿着实验。     

涤纶机织拉毛产品的开发

通过比较针织拉毛产品和机织拉毛产品的工艺流程,讨论了两种织物的特点,叙述了涤纶机织拉毛产品的开发思路,提出了涤纶拉毛织物加工过程中的主要难点和解决这些难点的基本方法.     

精纺毛织物折皱回复性研究

选取了24种精纺毛织物,将织物沿0°、10°、20°、30°、40°、45°、50°、60°、70°、80°、90°方向裁剪成11个试样,然后用YG541E型全自动激光织物折皱弹性测试仪测试了24块毛织物在11个方向下的急弹性和缓弹性折皱回复角。经过数据处理得出以下结论:毛织物的平均急弹性回复角(X)和平均缓弹性回复角(Y)之间具有高度正相关关系,且Y=0.9219X+20.275,可以应用此公式由急弹性回复角计算缓弹性回复角,以减少测试工作量;建议今后对毛织物进行折皱回复性测试与评价时,为提高评价准确性,经向、纬向以及45°斜向需一起考虑。     

Evaluating the crease recovery performance of woven fabrics considering bending behaviour in various directions

Since the woven fabric is used on the 3D body, it encounters bending deformation and crease in various directions. Due to the prominence of these deformations in the appearance of the garment, the inspection of bending and crease recovery behaviour of fabric in different directions needs to be considered. In this paper, the evaluation of bending rigidity and crease recovery of fabrics is carried out in various directions. Analysis of the results revealed that fabric-bending rigidity could be expressed as a sinusoidal function of sample orientation towards warp direction. For all the studied fabrics, from warp axis to bias direction, bending rigidity follows a descending trend, however; crease recovery angle has an ascending tendency. Reverse variations were achieved for both properties from bias direction to weft axis due to the variant warp and weft yarn contributions in each direction. Hence, the lowest bending rigidity was obtained in the bias direction (45°), while the highest crease recovery angle was recorded for the mentioned direction. Moreover, an exponential function is utilized to express the non-linear relation between bending rigidity and the crease recovery in different directions of the fabric. The statistical analysis of the results clarified that the effect of fabric direction and structural parameters on the bending and crease recovery behaviour is significant in the confidence range of 95%.     

铜氨纤维机织面料的生产

介绍了纯铜氨纤维机织物的浆纱、织造、前处理、染色、印花,以及后整理的加工技术和要点。铜氨纤维织物织造时应采用合理的浆纱工艺和边组织结构;前处理采用茶皂素卷装温堆、高温短蒸工艺;染色和后整理加工需严格筛选染料和柔软剂;每一加工工序均采用卷装方式,可获得手感柔软、悬垂性好、色泽饱满艳丽、色牢度佳的纯铜氨纤维机织高档服装面料。