Surface roughness properties of polyester woven fabrics after abrasion

Effect of abrasion on surface roughness properties of textured polyester woven fabrics has been investigated. The effects of weft density, weft yarn filament number, fiber fineness, and weave pattern on surface roughness after abrasion were studied. Surface roughness values of control fabric (not abraded) and abraded fabrics after four different abrasion cycles were discussed according to different constructional parameters. Surface roughness values of fabrics changed according to abrasion cycles and the changes were related to yarn float lengths, yarn densities, yarn fiber fineness, and initial fabric surface roughness. A general overview of the results showed that abrasion eliminated the effect of texture especially at the fabric samples with initially high surface roughness. The surface roughness of fabrics with initially high surface roughness decreased at a greater extent than the ones with low surface roughness after abrasion. Fabrics with high surface roughness were affected more by abrasion and the effect of abrasion on rough surfaces depended on different manners regarding the compactness of woven structures.     

Assessment of the effect of fabric constructional parameters on surface roughness of wool fabrics

Surface roughness properties of wool fabrics are one of the important parameters of clothing quality and hand feeling. This paper presents a comparison between surface roughness characteristics of wool fabrics produced from different constructional parameters such as warp and weft yarn density, weft yarn count, and weave pattern. Roughness values of fabrics were affected by constructional parameters and the effects were related to fabric cover, fabric thickness, and crimps of yarns in fabric structure. A general overview of the results showed that surface roughness of wool fabrics decreased and the effect of changes in structural construction decreased as cover of fabrics increased.     

Investigation of the relation between surface roughness and friction properties of polyester fabrics after abrasion

This paper focused on the investigation of surface roughness and friction properties of polyester fabrics after abrasion. Experiments were performed on polyester woven fabrics produced from the same yarns in warp and weft directions but with different constructional properties. Surface roughness parameters of amplitude, spacing and hybrid, along with static and kinetic coefficients of friction were measured before and after multiple abrasion cycles. Abrasion was used in order to change the surface characteristic (peak and valley heights and depths and their distributions) in such a way by forming ruptured fiber ends under the control of abrasion. Measurements were made along warp, weft, and diagonal directions. The results showed that roughness parameters decreased numerically as abrasion cycles increased and as ruptured fiber ends formed. Static and kinetic coefficients of friction changed in different manners when measurements were performed along warp and weft directions. It was concluded that initial and resultant peak heights and valley depths together with their distribution on fabric surface govern roughness and friction properties of surfaces in opposite ways. Roughness parameters of skewness and kurtosis could be further considered in the research of friction properties of textile surfaces.     

Investigation on permeability and moisture management properties of different denim fabrics after repeated laundering

The physiological comfort determined by air permeability and moisture management properties of fabrics is influenced by various constructional parameters of the fabric which give woven fabric a porous structure. Evaporation of sweat during wear has the potential to cool the body besides restricting the additional weight of sweat being absorbed by the fabric. In this study, comfort characteristics of denim fabrics with different weft yarn of cotton, polyester and core spun Lycra have been discussed. Effect of enzyme washing and repeated laundering on air permeability, moisture management and drying rate has also been discussed. It was observed that air permeability and water vapour permeability of unwashed denim fabrics with cotton weft yarn are significantly higher than the fabric with polyester and Lycra cotton weft yarns. The wetting time is higher for cotton and Lycra cotton yarn fabrics. One-way transport index is highest for Lycra cotton weft fabrics and lowest for fabrics with polyester weft. Fabrics with polyester weft yarns show highest spreading rate, spreading radius and drying rate due to better wicking and hydrophobic nature of polyester fibres.     

抗电磁辐射精纺毛织面料的开发及其影响因素

 本文旨在通过两种加工方式研制成抗电磁辐射精纺面料,一种是镀银长丝与羊毛单纱并捻合股织造成并捻织物,一种是镀银长丝直接用作经纬纱与羊毛交织成交织物。由织物的屏蔽效能测试结果可知,并捻织物电磁屏蔽效能在2250-2650MHz波段内优于交织物,最高可达85dB,具有较好的抗电磁辐射效果。另外,经纬密度的变化对织物电磁屏蔽能力也有一定影响,两种织物紧度在78%左右、交织物羊毛与长丝比例为1:2时电磁屏蔽效果较好。其结果对开发高性能抗电磁辐射精纺面料有一定的指导意义。     

Tensile and Frictional Properties of Wool-Cotton Union Khadi Fabrics

ABSTRACT

This paper describes the tensile and frictional behavior of wool-cotton union fabrics developed using different wool-cotton blended warp yarns, and mixed wool weft yarns spun on khadi spinning system. The tenacity and elongation at break of fabric increase with the blending of cotton with JK crossbred wool in the warp direction and high content of Australian merino wool in the weft direction, however, initial modulus decreases. The static and dynamic coefficient of friction positively correlates to the wool content in warp yarn and negatively correlates with linear density and the proportion of Australian merino wool in weft yarn.     

Thermo-physiological comfort characteristics of polyester air-jet-textured and cotton-yarn fabrics

Air-jet-textured polyester yarns were produced using two feed yarns differing in filament fineness and number of filaments. By varying the overfed rates of feed yarns and changing their positions in core and effect, five textured yarns were produced. Woven fabrics were prepared using these textured yarns as weft and cotton yarns in warp. To study the effect of air-jet-texturing parameters on the thermo-physiological comfort characteristics of fabric, the woven fabrics were tested for thickness, thermal properties, transverse wicking and air permeability. It is observed that thermal conductivity and resistance of fabrics are not influenced by the texturing parameters/textured yarn structure. These properties are mainly dependent on the entrapped air present in fabrics. Thermal absorptivity is a transient phenomenon of heat flow reflecting that the ‘warm-cool feeling’ effect of fabrics depends on smoothness/roughness of fabric surface. Fabrics with smooth surfaces have higher thermal absorptivity values as they provide a large area of contact with human skin. The roughness of fabrics depends on the number of surface loops and filament fineness. Transverse wicking of fabrics depends on the size, continuity and alignment of the capillaries present in the core of textured yarns.     

Further Progress on the Abrasion Kinetic Modelling of Woven Fabrics Using the Martindale Abrasion Tester

Abstract

The abrasion behaviour of thirty-nine woven fabrics made of wool, polyester and cellulosic (viscose and flax) fibre blends has been measured using the Martindale wear and abrasion tester. The abrasion resistance has been assessed through the number of cycles needed to produce yarn breakage. The abradability has been measured by the rate of weight loss per 1000 abrasion cycle (kcy). A cumulative distribution of weight loss versus abrasion cycles has been plotted using the weight loss produced at 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% of the number of cycles needed for yarn breakage. The plot shows the abrasion kinetic and a third degree polynomial model has been used to fit it. The first derivative at the origin gave the initial abradability or rate of mass loss (mg/kcy). A very high negative correlation between the number of abrasion cycles to produce yarn breakage and the mean abradability has been observed. The abrasion resistance depends on the fabric type, the woollen fabrics being the less abrasion-resistant while the worsted ones showed higher abrasion resistance. Abrasion kinetics depends on fabric sett, interlacing weave and composition. Closed fabrics with high sett levels, interlacing weaves and polyester content, showed a concave abrasion kinetic while open fabrics with higher content of wool and/or cellulosic fibres showed a convex abrasion kinetic. Using regression analysis, the most relevant fabric parameters related to the abrasion resistance were fabric composition, thickness and the weave interlacing coefficient.     

柔丝织物紫外线透射性能分析

为研究柔丝织物紫外线透射性能,在同一工艺条件下织造不同规格的柔丝织物,通过对织物在280～400 nm波长范围内紫外线透过率测试,分析柔丝纤维比例、纱线纤度、纬纱密度等结构参数对紫外线透射性能的影响。研究发现:柔丝纤维中存在大量对紫外线有吸收作用的物质,使柔丝织物具有较好的防紫外线性能;随着柔丝纤维比例、纱线纤度、纬纱密度的增加,试样紫外线透过率呈下降的趋势;各结构参数对紫外线透过率影响程度大小顺序为:柔丝纤维比例、纱线纤度、纬纱密度。     

防紫外毛涤混纺织物的开发及其性能研究

采用原料创新将抗紫外线涤纶纤维与防缩羊毛混纺,选用不同的混纺比,设计纺纱工艺流程及主要技术参数,选用相同的纱支、不同的经纬密度及织物组织上机织造,得到了不同规格的轻薄面料.测试和分析了不同规格抗紫外线毛涤织物的紫外线防护效果,并对各类织物的热湿舒适性能进行了测试与评价.结果证明,所设计并试织的系列织物具有较好的防紫外线性能和热湿舒适性能;在保证紫外线防护系数符合要求的情况下,织物的紧度不宜过大,以使夏季织物具有较好的热湿舒适性能.     

用Dref 3摩擦纺多组分纬纱织造的织物的风格特征

研究分析了3种用Dref3摩擦纺多组分纬纱织造的平纹织物的风格特征。3种不同的纬纱是：芯皮均为粘纤;水溶性PVA作皮,粘胶无捻纱条作芯;PVA无捻纱条作芯,粘纤作皮。3种纱均在Dref3型摩擦纺机上按芯皮50／50比例纺成,经纱统一采用2合股纯棉纱线。将3种纱分别织成织物,然后用热水将PVA溶解去除。织物性能的测定结果：织物性能与组成织物的纱组分性能并不一致。无捻芯纱(溶掉PVA表皮)织物具有较高的拉伸强力、撕裂强力、折皱回复性和耐磨性;而空心纱(溶掉PVA作芯)织物具有丰满、蓬松的结构和良好的耐压缩性能。     

基于导电纤维针织物的柔性传感器研究

本文以4种镀银纱纬编针织物为试样,测试了其单向拉伸时的导电性能,考察了拉伸性能对其电阻的影响。研究结果表明,在小应变的情况下,电阻与其应变成线性关系;竖条纹双罗纹针织物的灵敏度最大,横条纹双罗纹针织物的次之,镀银纱纬平针织物的最小;纱线间接触电阻的变化是引起纬平针织物电阻变化的最关键因素;将双罗纹织物重复拉伸来模拟心跳信号,结果显示电阻能基本稳定在一个值上,可以满足传感器稳定性的要求。     

圆纬机上机工艺参数对羊毛纬平针织物纵行歪斜的影响

以单股美利奴羊毛纱线和纬平针织物为研究对象,通过正交试验方法,探讨了下机织物经自然松弛处理和湿松弛处理后,给纱张力、弯纱深度、主轴转速、成圈系统数等主要上机工艺参数对织物纵行歪斜角的影响。试验结果显示,给纱张力对自然松弛状态下的羊毛单纱纬平针织物歪斜角的影响显著,成圈系统数对湿松弛处理后的羊毛单纱纬平针织物歪斜角有一定影响,织物湿松弛洗涤处理会增加羊毛纬平针织物的纵行歪斜现象。     

精纺毛织物结构参数与折皱回复性的关系

为探究精纺毛织物结构参数与折皱性能的关系,收集了18 种精纺毛织物,应用JN-1型织物折皱回复性能动态测试仪进行折皱回复角测试,通过数据分析,得出结构参数与折皱回复角间的关系。为了进一步分析各结构参数对织物抗皱性能的影响程度,找出对折皱回复角影响较大的结构参数,同时研究了织物结构参数与折皱回复角的相关性。结果表明：精纺毛织物的折皱回复性不仅与织物原料、纱线线密度和捻度有关,还与织物经纬密、织物紧度以及面密度有关;除了纤维原料以外,纱线捻度对织物折皱回复性的影响最为显著。     

Effect of structural parameters of porous yarns and fabric on air permeability and moisture transfer of double-face woven fabrics

In this study, effect of fabric structural parameters of double-face woven fabrics including kind of porous yarn namely micro-porous yarn and hollow yarn, hole size of hollow yarn, percentage of these yarns in double-face woven fabric structure, and finally weft density on air permeability and moisture transfer of woven fabrics was evaluated. These yarns were produced by using water-soluble continuous polyvinyl alcohol filaments as core part for hollow yarns and as doubling yarn in micro-porous yarn. Results revealed the effect of kind of porous yarn, hole size of hollow yarn, and weft density on air permeability and moisture transfer of woven fabrics. The percentage of porous yarns as weft did not show obvious trend. Analysis of variance was used to study the effect of these variables on air permeability and moisture transfer of double-face woven fabrics statistically.     

黄麻混织针织物的设计与开发

本研究针对黄麻纱线粗硬、毛羽较多,弹性低等特点,对纱线毛羽、细度及强度进行测试并选择适合的棉及涤纶纱线进行混合。将黄麻与棉及涤纶纱线经过合股上蜡处理后,在针织横机上设计并编织罗纹、移圈、圆筒等不同组织和结构的黄麻混织织物及产品。通过对黄麻混织织物的耐磨性、透气性、抗起毛起球等性能进行测试与分析,结果表明麻涤1罗纹织物耐磨性、耐起毛起球性最好,而麻棉4为单面圆筒织物线圈密度最小,透气性能最优;麻棉2由于具有移圈及凹凸效果,透气性能次之,耐磨性稍差。所织织物适合制作具有田园风格的家居类装饰物,从而开发黄麻纤维更广泛的应用领域。     

纯棉织物折皱回复角与其组织结构参数的关系

为从织物自身组织结构方面优化纯棉织物的折皱性,首先设计织物组织结构参数并制备织物,利用数字式织物折皱弹性仪测得织物的折皱回复角。在此基础上,建立纯棉织物经、纬向和总折皱回复角与织物组织结构参数(包括经纬纱线密度、经纬纱捻度、经纬向密度)之间的线性回归方程;同时分析织物折皱回复角与各组织结构参数间的相关性。结果表明:回归方程的计算值与折皱回复角实测值绝对误差不超过0.61°,回归方程具有较高的实用性;经纬纱捻度、线密度对纯棉织物的折皱回复性影响最大,可通过提高经纬纱捻度、降低经纬纱线密度来改善纯棉织物的抗皱性。     

Performance of Error Back Propagation vis-à-vis Radial Basis Function Neural Network: Part II: Reverse Engineering of Woven Fabrics

Abstract

This paper describes the application of an artificial neural network approach to engineer the design of woven wool and wool blended suiting fabric, to be used by the weavers. Two neural network models based on error back propagation and radial basis function algorithms are used for ascertaining fabric constructional parameters such as fibre composition, yarn density, yarn tex, weave, yarn crimp and yarn twist to obtain desired low stress mechanical properties and other properties such as breaking strength and extension, bending rigidity, shear rigidity and tear strength of the suiting fabric. Of the two networks, radial basis function network is again found to be fast to train and easier to design than back propagation network. Evaluation of both the models for each fabric property specification shows good agreement between predicted and generally accepted fabric, yarn structure–property relationships.     

羊毛混纺户外运动服用针织面料开发与性能评价

为满足人们对春秋季户外休闲运动服装的需求,采用藏青羊毛纱、白色羊毛纱、涤纶丝以及锦纶丝为原料,在双面电脑提花机上开发4款羊毛针织面料,并选择2款规格相近的高密度面料作为对比样。对6种面料的耐磨性、顶破强力、抗起毛起球性、透气量、悬垂系数、克罗值、液态水分管理能力进行测试分析,采用模糊综合评价方法对面料的服用舒适性能进行评价,最后选出服用性能最好的羊毛针织面料,为羊毛户外休闲运动针织面料的开发提供参考。