细旦涤纶与毛混纺纱线及织物的性能

细旦涤纶兼具微细纤维及涤纶纤维的优缺点,文中从细旦涤纶与毛混纺纱线的结构着手,详细分析了毛／涤纱线的结构性能及其强物的性能。细旦涤纶优先分布在混纺线的里层。随着涤纶细度的降低,纱线条干均匀度提高,强力不匀率下降,纤维强力利用系数和纱线强力得到提高;其混纺织物的断裂强力,拉伸弹性,悬垂性,柔软性和吸湿透气性能得到提高。回弹性,折皱恢复性,抗起毛起球和耐磨性能下降。     

羊毛织物的湿膨胀和永久性定形

从纱线织缩率和纱线间相互作用力,以及纱线间应力松驰的角度,阐述了羊毛织物湿膨胀性能的影响因素,并以羊毛织物结构和整理过程的关键为基础,讨论了永久性定形和湿膨胀的关系以及降低永久性定形和湿膨胀的方法。     

PTT/毛与PET/毛混纺织物的弹性比较

对PTT/毛混纺织物与PET/毛混纺织物进行弹性测试.通过对比分析发现,与同组织的PET/毛混纺织物相比,PTT/毛混纺织物断裂强力较低,而断裂伸长较大,缓折痕回复性较好,在整个拉伸过程中表现出低模量的特征;PTT/毛混纺织物的弹性伸长和弹性回复能力大,对人体收紧力适中,应力松弛小.     

预处理对聚吡咯/羊毛复合导电纱线性能的影响

为了改善聚吡咯/羊毛复合导电纱线的导电性,采用化学原位聚合的方法,以纯羊毛纱线为基材,以吡咯为单体,三氯化铁为氧化剂,十六烷基三甲基溴化铵为掺杂剂,制备了聚吡咯/羊毛复合导电纱线。根据羊毛纤维湿热条件的拉伸特性,采用机械拉伸和机械/化学试剂共同作用的方法,改变羊毛纤维的鳞片结构和表面性质,增加吡咯与羊毛纤维的反应位点。为了进一步提高复合导电纱线的导电性,采用多次负载的方法,增加聚吡咯在羊毛纱线上的负载。实验结果表明:经过预处理后的聚吡咯/羊毛复合导电纱线具有较高的强力和较低的初始模量,其导电性能大大提升,电阻值由未经处理的730Ω/cm下降到34.83Ω/cm。     

毛织物的汽蒸压烫缩率与湿膨胀率

织物尺寸稳定性是服装生产厂对面料的基本质量要求之一。文中重点分析了（1）汽蒸压烫缩率（LPS）与湿膨胀率（HE）和松弛缩率（RS）之间的关系；（2）决定湿膨胀率的各项因素，在数据处理方面使用了QBASIC语言编程的多元回归分析程序。     

纯棉环锭纱结构力学性能与其强力计算方法

根据纤维性能和纱线设计参数预测纱线强力,对合理使用纤维原料、降低成本、保证成纱质量具有重要意义。对环锭纱结构力学性能进行了系统研究,得出了环锭纱的相关力学性能参数与纱线号数和捻度的关系;通过对从工厂收集的200组纯棉纱线号数、捻度、强力等数据的统计分析,并综合考虑纱线号数、是否精梳、是否使用长绒棉等因素,得出了号数和捻度与纱线强力相对值的经验函数关系。综合考虑环锭纱的力学性能参数和经验函数,根据连续介质力学理论,推导出一种纯棉环锭纱单纱强力计算公式。该公式使用方便,对纯棉环锭纱强力预测精度较高。预测强力与实测强力之间呈线性关系,二者之间回归方程的决定系数达到0.9623。     

Analysis of bending properties of worsted wool yarns and fabrics based on quasi-three-point bending

Abstract

The bending behavior of worsted wool yarns and fabrics plays a crucial role in handling and performance of end-use textiles. Hence, the fabric/yarn bending properties were studied based on a quasi-three-point bending model by means of the theoretical modeling and the corresponding measuring method. By means of the formula and the measured curves, the curve of bending rigidity and the curvature of a fabric or a yarn can be calculated so as to characterize the bending behavior more precisely than in the previous work. All the experiments on the fabric/yarn bending rigidity have been conducted for both the worsted wool fabrics and the corresponding yarns procured from the fabrics, with the same apparatus bending evaluation system of fabric and yarn, which was developed independently. The measured results of bending rigidity and curvature curve show good correlation with the bending moment and the curvature relationship of the theoretical modeling, and the comparisons of bending rigidity among KES-FB2 (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics-2 pure bending tester), FAST-2 (Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing-2 bending meter), and the independently developed apparatus show that the three systems exhibist reasonably high correlations. It is confirmed that the new apparatus and the theoretical model are both viable and precious. Meanwhile, the theoretical relationship between the yarns and the fabrics has also been discussed, and the theoretical analysis of the bending behavior between the yarns and the fabrics is helpful in selecting a better theoretical model of the fabric-to-yarn bending rigidity ratio.     

赛络纺棉/毛段彩纱结构及其性能

针对环锭纺三罗拉和四罗拉法所纺段彩纱条干不匀的结果问题,采用同轴双后罗拉2组粗纱同锭位藕合等量喂入的方法纺制等线密度赛络纺棉/毛段彩纱,并对成纱的结构及性能进行了分析。纱线的纵向观测结果表明棉与毛的质量比差异越大,分段时间越长,纱线的段彩效果越明显;截面观测结果表明棉和毛纤维在纱中互相压紧并包缠形成类似于太极阴阳鱼的结构;分段中棉与毛质量比差异及纺纱分段时间增加时,纱线的断裂强度变小,CV值变大,但对有害毛羽数量影响不大。该纺纱方法使用天然的棉和毛纤维,既丰富了现有花式纱线的产品种类,也在对细纱机进行简单改装的条件下制得股线风格的毛型感段彩纱,符合绿色低碳循环发展的趋势。     

The effect of fabric strain during pressure steaming on fabric dimensional properties

It is shown that tension applied to fabric which is then permanently set by steaming under pressure for a short time has a significant effect on fabric dimensional properties. Increasing levels of stretch applied to fabric before pressure steaming resulted in decreases in fabric hygral expansion and relaxation shrinkage and also lowered fabric shrinkage that resulted from permanent setting. The setting conditions resembled those used in conventional pressure decatising, and it is suggested that in batch decatising, precise control of the length and width of fabric as it is batched up with the wrapper before steaming under pressure could enable predictable changes in fabric dimensions, relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion to be obtained.     

A study on siro-, solo-, compact-, and conventional ring-spun yarns. Part I: structural and migratory properties of the yarns

Properties of spun yarns are mainly affected by fiber properties and yarn structure. Yarn structure is principally influenced by the spinning system. In fact, each spinning system tends to produce a distinctive yarn structure. Recent refinements in spinning technologies have yielded significant improvement in yarn structure. Siro, solo and compact spinning are the new spinning systems to have made a breakthrough until recently. Of the various structural parameters for staple yarns, fiber migration has a crucial influence on the yarn mechanical properties. Thus, the need for precise and concise information about fiber migration becomes important for better understanding of yarn structure and hence yarn mechanical behavior. The work presented here aims to analyze fiber migration in siro-, solo-, compact-, and conventional ring-spun yarns by varying the twist factor. The results demonstrate that the siro-spun yarns exhibit the highest fiber migration parameters, followed by compact-spun yarns, solo-spun yarns, and conventional ring-spun yarns.     

中性染色条件下羊毛保护剂的作用

将实验室合成的 2种抗定形保护剂 (BP - 1和BP - 2 )应用于纯羊毛织物的中性条件染色试验中 ,以商用抗定形保护剂MiralanHTP和交联型IrgasolHTWNEW作为对照 ,对染色后织物的永久定形、湿膨胀及拉伸性能进行了测试。结果表明 :保护剂BP - 1和BP - 2在中性条件下对羊毛纤维具有良好的保护作用 ,优于目前商用产品。     

Thermal insulation and thermal contact properties of wool and wool/PES fabrics in wet state

The most important parameters characterizing thermal comfort of special garments are thermal resistance and water vapor permeability. Contrary to common textiles, protective garments are often used in wet state, which affects their comfort properties. However, current measuring instruments mostly do not enable reliable measurement of wet fabrics. In the article, Alambeta instrument was used, which provides reliable measurement of thermal comfort of dry and wet fabrics. Research program included evaluation and discussion of the thermal properties: conductivity, resistance, and absorbtivity of wool and wool/partial use of hydrophobic fibers woven fabrics in dry, standard, and wet states. The effect of composition on the above-mentioned properties of these fabrics has also been investigated.     

两种喷气涡流纺黏胶纱及其针织物的性能对比

测试分析了黏胶纯纺与黏胶/涤纶混纺的喷气涡流纺针织纱线的性能,比较了两种纱线编织的双罗纹针织物的力学性能、KES风格性能、服用性能和染色牢度。试验结果显示:纯黏胶喷气涡流纺针织纱毛羽较少,两种纱线的拉伸性能相似;纯黏胶喷气涡流纺纱双罗纹针织物的抗起毛起球性能优良,织物较硬挺,而黏胶/涤纶(65/35)混纺喷气涡流纺纱双罗纹针织物柔软性好,尺寸稳定性佳,表面更为光滑平整,且两种织物的染色牢度都好。     

PTT/毛混纺纱性能测试与评价

对规格相同的PTT/毛和PET/毛混纺纱进行测试,对比分析PTT/毛混纺纱线的毛羽、拉伸性能、回弹性能及沸水收缩率。实验结果表明,PTT/毛混纺纱线毛羽较少,纱线拉伸模量低于PET/毛混纺纱,纱线拉伸断裂伸长率较高;PTT/毛混纺纱在定伸长5%条件下,弹性回复率达到96%,在定伸长15%的条件下弹性回复率达到87%,且急弹性回复率大于PET/毛混纺纱;PTT/毛混纺纱的沸水收缩率与PET/毛混纺纱的沸水收缩率相比差异不大,都具有良好的沸水稳定性。     

聚酯/粘胶混纺空气变形丝的性能

由聚酯和粘胶长丝生产混纺空气变形丝,以研究不同混纺比对物理性能的影响。研究揭示:这种混纺空气变形丝的外形膨松度随聚酯比例的减少而增大,并在聚酯/粘胶质量分数比为50:50的混纺纱中膨松度最大。在混纺空气变形丝中,随聚酯比例的减少,丝圈的不稳定性增大,而收缩率减小。在聚酯/粘胶混纺空气变形丝中,随聚酯比例的减少,强度和伸长下降。     

应用原位聚合法的PTT/毛/聚苯胺复合导电纱制备与性能

本文采用了一种新颖的基于原位聚合法的连续制备导电纱线的方法,以PTT/毛混纺纱为原料,制备了PTT/毛/PANI复合导电纱线,探讨了反应液浓度对复合导电纱电导率的影响,并研究了PTT/毛/PANI复合导电纱的表面形貌、化学结构及力学性能。研究结果表明：随着反应液浓度的提高,复合导电纱线中的聚苯胺含量增大,纱线的电导率提高,可达1.08×10-2S/cm;红外分析表明复合导电纱是PTT、羊毛与聚苯胺的共混体系;纱线经导电处理后,断裂强力、断裂伸长率与初始模量均有所提高,但屈服应力和屈服伸长率都有一定程度的下降。     

毛涤/粘麻衬衣面料的开发

毛涤 粘麻交织产品具有悬垂性好、透气、挺括、弹性足、吸湿优良、抗静电等特点。文中根据实际生产所积累的经验,对原料的选择、纺纱织造、后整理等各道工序进行了较全面的阐述。     

毛/涤混纺纱上浆研究

单经单纬毛织物的兴起,决定了精纺毛/涤混纺纱必须通过浆纱工序.羊毛纤维表面有鳞片层,湿热状态下会产生缩绒现象.毛纱弹性好,但毛羽多、湿强度低、耐热耐碱性差.根据羊毛纤维和纱线的结构、特性,文章分析了毛纱上浆的特点和难点,依据"相似相溶"原理,研究制定了毛/涤混纺纱上浆用浆料及浆料配方,并阐述了上浆条件和主要工艺参数.上浆后,纱线达到了贴伏毛羽、增加耐磨、增强保伸、改善织物织造性能的目的.通过大量实验,测试并分析了浆液性能、浆膜性能和浆纱质量,得出了适用于毛/涤混纺纱上浆的最佳浆料配方.     

涡流纺纱线的包缠加捻对其力学性能的影响

为探究涡流纺纱线的包缠加捻与成纱力学性能的关系,从理论上分析了涡流纺纱线拉伸过程中的纤维形变与受力,详细研究了涡流压力和纺纱速度对涡流纺纱线力学性能的影响.结果表明:外层纤维螺旋包缠特性对涡流纺成纱的力学性能起着决定性作用,涡流压力和纺纱速度为影响涡流纺包缠和加捻效果的主要因素;当纺纱速度为280 m/min时,随着涡...     

原液着色PTT/毛混纺纱力学性能及其织物染整加工方法研究

文章研究了不同比例的毛/原液着色PTT(50/50或30/70)混纺纱在张力及不同热处理条件下的力学性能.实验表明,松弛条件下的干热或湿热处理均导致了其延伸性能增强、模量略微降低及回弹性能降低;而小张力条件下的干热或湿热处理均导致了混纺纱初始模量略微上升、回弹性能提高,但是延伸性能和断裂强力变化较小.基于此,设计采用化纤染整线实现了毛/原液着色PTT织物的高效短流程染整,并获得了良好效果,即使是毛/PTT 30/70织物也有优良的毛感和弹性,证明了PTT纤维在毛纺产品开发中的潜力.