Investigation on permeability and moisture management properties of different denim fabrics after repeated laundering

The physiological comfort determined by air permeability and moisture management properties of fabrics is influenced by various constructional parameters of the fabric which give woven fabric a porous structure. Evaporation of sweat during wear has the potential to cool the body besides restricting the additional weight of sweat being absorbed by the fabric. In this study, comfort characteristics of denim fabrics with different weft yarn of cotton, polyester and core spun Lycra have been discussed. Effect of enzyme washing and repeated laundering on air permeability, moisture management and drying rate has also been discussed. It was observed that air permeability and water vapour permeability of unwashed denim fabrics with cotton weft yarn are significantly higher than the fabric with polyester and Lycra cotton weft yarns. The wetting time is higher for cotton and Lycra cotton yarn fabrics. One-way transport index is highest for Lycra cotton weft fabrics and lowest for fabrics with polyester weft. Fabrics with polyester weft yarns show highest spreading rate, spreading radius and drying rate due to better wicking and hydrophobic nature of polyester fibres.     

A model of seam pucker and its applications Part I: theoretical

Abstract

This article considers a simple model of the lock stitch (301) seam, and uses it to derive a measure of the severity of puckering in the seam. The numerical value of the measure depends on the bending properties of the fabrics and thread in the seam, together with the tensions in the threads. How the latter may be estimated is discussed.     

Determination of a sewing quality index of denim fabrics

This paper reports a determination of a sewing quality index in order to assist the industry in providing quality clothing before production. The particularity of this work lies in the fact that it encompasses various sewing quality parameters (efficiency, slippage, and puckering) into a single overall quality index. Moreover, a program was investigated, to determine the quality index, so that the manufacturer has only to enter the available data. In fact, by entering the input parameters which are blend composition, seam direction, fabric mass, stitch density, and seam thread linear density, an overall quality index will be given and the seam quality as well as the defect sources will be displayed. To reach this aim, regression models were determined to predict seam quality. In this work, 18 denim fabrics were sewn with two commercial sewing threads. Their influences, ranked according to the seam quality, were also determined. The seam efficiency was calculated by determining both the seam and the fabric's tensile strength. The seam slippage was determined by calculating the difference between the elongation at the break of the seam and the elongation at the break of the fabric. Seam puckering was determined by measuring both the fabric and seam’s thickness.     

Inspecting anisotropy in wrinkle recovery angle of woven fabric

In this paper, the anisotropic wrinkle recovery properties of plain and twill fabrics are explored by studying the variations of the wrinkle recovery angle with sample orientation angle. Orientation angle is the angle measured counterclockwise from the weft direction to the sample’s long axis, that is, the crease direction. This study focused on inspecting anisotropy in wrinkle recovery to find more effective test angles for different woven fabrics. A dynamic wrinkle recovery tester was used to measure the recovery angles of specimens automatically which were cut in various directions. The trend of plain fabrics shows that its recovery angle generally increases at first and then decreases with the increase in the orientation angle. The trend of twill fabrics differs in folding ways. The experimental results revealed that the wrinkle recovery angles of the woven fabrics had the lowest values near the orientation angles of 0° and 90°, i.e. the warp and weft directions, and therefore these two traditionally used directions in the standard test method did not best reflect the wrinkle recovery yielded from both warps and wefts. The diagonal direction (45°) was proven to be the optimal orientation angle for a balanced plain fabric, while the two orthogonal directions, i.e. the twill direction and its perpendicular direction, were found to be more relevant for a twill fabric. Optimal orientation angles used to test the wrinkle recovery angle of a woven fabric should be associated with its structure.     

广角机织物的织造工艺及其偏轴拉伸力学性能

为开发适用于不同应用领域的产业用纺织品,在对原有普通剑杆织机改进的基础上,探讨了广角机织物的织造工艺,织造了经纱和纬纱夹角为120°的涤/棉平纹广角机织物。借助万能材料试验机研究了普通涤/棉正交织物和广角机织物不同偏轴方向的拉伸力学性能,获得了其应力-应变曲线和特征值变化规律,并分析了其变形及失效模式。结果表明:对于普通正交机织物和广角机织物,其拉伸断裂强力均呈现出明显的极轴特性;在断裂强力相同的情况下,与普通正交机织物相比,广角机织物纬向的断裂伸长率提高了30%,经、纬向弹性模量分别提高了42%和79%,展现出优异的强度和变形特征。     

The Effect of Yarn Twist and Fibre Percentage in Blends on the Dimensional Properties of the Interlock Structure

An account is given of an investigation of the dimensional properties of a series of interlock weft knitted fabrics produced from open-end cotton-polyester blended yarns with different yarn twist, loop length, fibre percentage in blend, and variety of relaxation treatments. A comprehensive experimental analysis shows that the Ks value (stitch density multiplied by the square of loop length) is related to yarn density, fibre percentage in blends, and relaxation treatments. It is also concluded that the correct relaxation state for cotton fabrics to reach the maximum shrinkage is full mechanical relaxation, and for cotton polyester blended and 100% polyester fabrics is chemical relaxation treatment. The empirical results show that the effect of mechanical relaxation decreases as the percentage of polyester in blends increases.     

聚酯与棉三层纬编针织物的机械及热学性能

针织编织中纱线线圈的相互串套,可生产二维和／或三维的织物,并有可能生产多层织物。三层织物由放湿层、吸汗层以及散热层组成,因此具有良好的热湿舒适性能。经编和纬编均可生产三层织物。主要研究棉／聚酯／棉和棉／聚酯／聚酯2种三层织物,通过测试两者的的尺寸稳定性、吸湿性、芯吸性以及导热性,对比其机械及热学特性。实验研究发现纱线原料种类和组合方式对三层织物性能有很大影响。     

雪纺面料性能与缝缩方向性研究

由于缺乏对同一种面料缝缩方向性变化规律的了解,对缝缩的控制常常依赖于经验,为此研究了雪纺面料在不同方向上面料性能与缝缩的变化规律。在0°~360°范围内沿面料经向每隔10°分别取样并缝制,还包括45°、135°、225°和315°斜向角度,用FAST风格仪测定不同方向面料的弯曲性能、拉伸性能、剪切性能,分别测定面料不同方向的缝缩率,并通过AATCC标准对缝缩进行主观评价。分别建立面料性能方向性与缝缩率方向性以及主观评价值之间的回归预测方程,对合理选择面料丝缕方向进行服装造型设计及制作有指导意义。     

Modeling and optimizing the frictional behavior of woven fabrics in climatic conditions using response surface methodology

Frictional characteristics of woven fabrics can determine smoothness and softness values of textiles. In this paper, we have studied the influence of factors such as temperature, relative humidity, fabric structure, type of fiber material, and direction of motion on roughness properties of fabric surface using response surface method (RSM). For this purpose, woven fabrics with plain, rib2/2, twill2/2, twill1/3, twill3/1, twill1/7, and twill7/1 were produced with polyester warp yarn and two different weft yarns (cotton and polyester). Then, a statistical model (RSM) was used for the experimental plan (with these variables) to determine the runs of experiment (or selected points). Next, the frictional forces measurement was carried out on the fabrics in those directions. The experimental results showed that fabric-to-fabric friction (static frictional resistance, kinetic frictional resistance, and smoothness of woven fabrics) is highly sensitive to factors like relative humidity, fabric structure, type of fiber material, and direction of motion while temperature factor (in the range 0–50°C) has no sensitive effect on frictional parameters.     

织物组织结构对衬衫面料撕破强力的影响

探讨织物组织结构对衬衫面料撕破强力的影响.以纯棉、棉涤混纺、棉涤混纺加少量天丝为原料,织造不同组织结构的织物：平纹、斜纹及纵条纹组织,所有试样均采用同样的液氨免烫后整理工艺.采用冲击摆锤法测定织物的撕破强力,并且从紧度比对撕破强力、织物组织对纯棉试样撕破强力,以及原料对撕破强力的影响三个方面进行分析.结果表明,随着织物的经纬向紧度比增大,织物的纬向撕破强力呈递增趋势;对于常见规格的纯棉织物,平纹组织的经、纬向撕破强力均小于其他组织,尤其是纬向撕破强力较容易出现不合格情况,斜纹组织织物的撕破强力较高,纵条组织织物的撕破强力因组成条纹的各基本组织的配置不同而不同,其撕破强力一般介于平纹和斜纹组织织物之间;在棉涤混纺加入少量天丝时,平纹组织织物的撕破强力会明显提高.产品设计中合理设计织物结构,使经纬向紧度比增大,可以提高纬向的撕破强力.     

经编提花间隔汽车座椅套的接缝性能

为研究汽车座椅面料在使用过程中的接缝强力,首先根据花型各自不同特点选取了基本组织和提花组织两类共12种样品,使用针织面料生产中常用的4种接缝线迹进行试样加工,然后采用条样法分别对经纬二个方向进行接缝强力及织物自身强力的拉伸断裂测试。对试验结果进行处理分析得到了可最大程度发挥经编提花间隔织物强力优势的缝迹,并总结不同花型结构对经纬向接缝强力的影响,以期对经编提花间隔汽车座椅面料的花型设计提供参考。     

Comparison of artificial neural network and adaptive neuro-fuzzy inference system for predicting the wrinkle recovery of woven fabrics

The aim of this study was to compare the artificial neural network (ANN) and adaptive neuro-fuzzy inference system (ANFIS) models for predicting the wrinkle recovery of polyester/cotton woven fabrics. The prediction models were developed using experimental data-set of 115 fabric samples of different constructions. Warp and weft yarn linear densities, ends/25 mm and picks/25 mm, were used as input/predictor variables, and warp and weft crease recovery angles (CRA) as output/response variables. It was found that the prediction accuracy of the ANN models was slightly better as compared with that of ANFIS models developed in this study. However, the ANFIS models could characterize the relationships between the input and output variables through surface plots, which the ANN models could not. The developed models may be used to optimize the fabric construction parameters for maximizing the wrinkle recovery of polyester/cotton woven fabrics.     

聚酯/聚酰胺及其棉混纺织物的染色性能

通过测试聚酯/聚酰胺织物（以下简称改性聚酯）的沸水收缩率,改性聚酯/棉(65/35)混纺织物的最佳前处理条件,改性聚酯织物常压染色和改性聚酯/棉织物分散/活性染料一浴一步法染色的K/S、色牢度,对新型改性聚酯及其棉混纺织物的染色性能进行了研究。实验结果表明：染前热定型后,改性聚酯及其棉混纺织物的经向、纬向收缩率都低于5%;改性聚酯/棉织物的前处理优化工艺条件为：双氧水4g/L、精炼剂3g/L 、NaOH4g/L;改性聚酯织物可以常压染色;改性聚酯/棉分散/活性染料一浴一步碱性染色匀染性良好,染色样品的熨烫、日晒、干摩擦牢度都达到4级及以上。     

平纹纯棉色织面料纬密对洗后外观平整度的影响

文章主要研究了平纹纯棉色织面料在经密相同的情况下,不同的纬密对面料折皱恢复角、洗后外观平整度的影响,结果表明:折皱恢复角、洗后外观平整度与面料的纬密在设定的范围内存在很强的相关性,合理调整面料的纬密对提高面料的洗后外观平整度起很大作用,为有免熨烫要求的平纹纯棉色织面料密度设计提供了理论依据。     

Study of wicking behavior of water on woven fabric using magnetic induction technique

An apparatus for measuring the wicking rise of water in fabrics has been developed and several types of fabrics were examined. The method is based on the electromagnetic field induction due to wicking penetration of water into capillary spaces of fabric samples. The measuring system is coupled with a personal computer, and the distance of water rise as a function of time is determined. Plain woven fabric samples with different weft yarn counts, density, and type of fiber in blend yarn were examined. The results obtained by wicking measurement were compared with water vapor permeability index data and the test method for wettability of textile fabrics on the same samples. The average wicking rise of water decreases with the increase of weft yarn density. The wicking of water along the cotton–polyester blend weft yarn is higher than 100% cotton weft yarn samples. The relation of water vapor permeability (WVP) index and the test method for wettability of the same fabric samples show the same behavior as the wicking rise. The equivalent geometric factor neglecting the Earth’s gravitational field is calculated by the average slope L ²/t from the experimental data of wicking of water into the samples. The radii of open channels in the woven fabric sample tends to decrease as a result of increasing weft yarn density.     

蒸镀超疏水涤纶织物的制备及其疏水性能

为实现耐久超疏水涤纶织物的简易制备,采用物理气相沉积技术在碱减量预处理的涤纶表面蒸镀低表面能的聚四氟乙烯。采用扫描电子显微镜、接触角测试仪、耐磨试验仪和热分析仪分别对镀膜织物的微观形貌、浸润性、耐久性和膜材的热稳定性进行表征。设计单因素与正交的组合试验方案,对各因素与疏水性能之间的关系进行分析。结果表明：影响镀膜织物疏水性能的主次因素依次为NaOH 质量浓度、蒸镀速率和蒸镀厚度;当NaOH 质量浓度为15g/L,蒸镀速率为0.3nm/s,蒸镀厚度为1.5 μm 时,可制得超疏水涤纶镀膜织物,其接触角和滚动角分别为151°和8.1°;经过7 000次的摩擦试验后,镀膜织物仍拥有124°的接触角和58.6°的滚动角,表现出良好的使用耐久性。     

Development of woven stretch fabrics and analysis on handle,stretch, and pressure comfort

Twelve stretchable fabrics are woven in two sets with one set in 50^s and 60^s 100% cotton in warp and 40^s, 50^s, and 60^s cotton core spun lycra yarn in weft and another set with 2/75 and 2/120?Nm silk in warp with 40^s, 50^s, and 60^s cotton core spun lycra yarn in weft. Hundred percent cotton sari blouse materials commercially available in the market are also included for a comparative study of pressure distribution between cotton core spun lycra fabrics and cotton blouse materials. The influence of fabric specification on total hand value (THV), stretch properties, and pressure comfort is analyzed. The effects of body shape and fabric mechanical properties on garment pressure are also analyzed. The results indicated that the finer counts of cotton core spun lycra woven with cotton and silk to elasticize fabrics provided improved hand feel, stretch, and pressure comfort values. The average pressure value of the samples at the major pressure points with the cotton/cotton core spun lycra samples and silk/cotton core spun lycra samples is lower than 100% cotton samples’ fabric physical properties, stretch properties, mechanical properties, and THV significantly influenced the pressure distribution and comfort of garments.     

棉/单芯涤纶长丝包芯纱织物的力学性能研究

文章对棉/单芯涤纶长丝包芯纱织物的力学性能指标进行了测试分析与比较,其断裂强度和撕裂强度均高于同规格纯棉环锭纱织物,经向的拉伸强度和撕裂强度比纬向的要大,而顶破性能则比纯棉环锭纱织物差。     

纯棉织物折皱回复角与其组织结构参数的关系

为从织物自身组织结构方面优化纯棉织物的折皱性,首先设计织物组织结构参数并制备织物,利用数字式织物折皱弹性仪测得织物的折皱回复角。在此基础上,建立纯棉织物经、纬向和总折皱回复角与织物组织结构参数(包括经纬纱线密度、经纬纱捻度、经纬向密度)之间的线性回归方程;同时分析织物折皱回复角与各组织结构参数间的相关性。结果表明:回归方程的计算值与折皱回复角实测值绝对误差不超过0.61°,回归方程具有较高的实用性;经纬纱捻度、线密度对纯棉织物的折皱回复性影响最大,可通过提高经纬纱捻度、降低经纬纱线密度来改善纯棉织物的抗皱性。     

Investigating the relation of fabric’s buckling behaviour and tension seam pucker formation

In the present study, the formation of tension seam pucker is considered in more details in order to compute the thread compression load in terms of sewing thread tension. To this end, the stitch formation in the fabric is simplified. The exerted thread compression force on the fabric in each stitch is calculated according to the thread tension, its mechanical properties and the cycles that the sewing thread suffers before shaping the stitch. In addition, the fabrics properties that are effective on the seam puckering are measured and their relation with the applied load on the fabrics is investigated. This process is carried out for 12 various fabrics which can be classified into three groups according to the application in the clothing. Outcomes indicated that it is possible to compute the compression force on the fabric in each stitch in every sewing tension level that is useful to predict the seam puckering formation in fabrics with known mechanical properties. The results of this research help to analyse the compression load on the fabric based on sewing thread tension.