不同纺纱流程下色纺纱色差对比

针对有些企业用一种纺纱方法纺色纺纱小样,在小样被接受后,用另一种纺纱方法纺批次样,然而所得批次样与小样之间的色差能否被接受的问题,本文将相同配比的有色纤维混合体,分别通过环锭纺、转杯纺以及快速纺三种不同的小样纺纱流程纺成纱线,绕在纸板上,再经过测色仪测色,比较不同纺纱流程下纱线之间的色差,并对造成色差的原因进行分析。结果表明：转杯纺纱线与快速纺纱线之间的色差均值为0.36CMC(2:1)单位,环锭纺纱线与快速纺纱线之间色差均值为0.95CMC(21:1)单位,环锭纺纱线与转杯纺纱线之间色差均值为0.77CMC(2:1)单位,造成色差的主要原因是成纱方法不同,引起纱线结构与纱线表面状态不同,进而对不同波长的光线反射率也不同。     

环锭纺及转杯纺和喷气涡流纺混色纱的纤维混合效果研究

为研究环锭纺、转杯纺和喷气涡流纺3种不同成纱方法对混色纱中各色纤维混合效果的影响,分别使用3种成纱方法、2种条混方式(1道并条工序、3道并条工序)纺制6种混色纱,并制作6种混色纱的横截面切片样本,通过计算汉密尔顿指数,表征混色纱中各色纤维径向分布的均匀程度,分析不同成纱方法的纤维混合规律;同时测试6种混色纱的成纱性能,分析不同成纱方法混色纱的成纱质量。结果表明:转杯纺混色纱纤维混合效果优于环锭纺和喷气涡流纺,环锭纺次之,喷气涡流纺纤维混合最不均匀;经过3道并条工序的混色纱纤维混合效果优于经过1道并条工序的混色纱;环锭纺混色纱的强度最高,喷气涡流纺混色纱的毛羽最少。     

天然染料染色羊毛的色域拓展及颜色预测模型

天然染料色谱不全的缺陷限制了其在羊毛上的应用。为丰富天然染料染色羊毛纤维的颜色色谱,选用天然红、黄、蓝三原色染料染色羊毛织物与纤维,然后对羊毛织物的一浴法拼混染色和有色纤维的拼色进行研究,并基于Kubelka-Munk单常数理论和Stearns-Noechel模型分别对一浴法拼混染色织物和拼混有色纤维进行颜色预测。结果表明：使用一浴法拼混染色,染色后的羊毛织物在CIELAB色域空间中分布不均匀,倾向于红(+a^*),色相角(h)分布范围主要集中在0°～24°、324°～360°之间;经有色纤维拼混获得的颜色空间分布更加均匀,更倾向于黄(+b^*),色相角(h)分布范围集中在0°～50°、316°～360°区域;Kubelka-Munk模型和Stearns-Noechel模型可分别用于天然染料一浴法染色羊毛织物和羊毛有色纤维拼色的颜色预测,为进一步提高生产效率、降低配色成本提出新思路。     

彩色聚合物微球的制备及其在纺织品印染中应用的研究进展

为弥补纺织品着色用染料和颜料存在的不足,开发彩色聚合物微球作为新型色素是有效途径之一。介绍了聚合物微球的制备方法,综述了近年来国内外制备彩色聚合物微球的3种方法:聚合包覆法、直接染色法和表面修饰法,从彩色聚合物微球的粒径尺寸及单/窄分散性、染料在聚合物微球表面的吸附量及吸附稳定性、纯度和功能性4个方面探讨了由不同方法所制得的彩色聚合物微球的特点。结果表明:将彩色聚合物微球用于织物的染色和印花,可获得较高的颜色深度和鲜艳度,主要色牢度指标均达到服用性能要求;彩色聚合物微球具有染料色彩鲜艳和有机颜料耐久性好等优点,在纺织品印染方面具有良好的应用前景。     

Fabrication of poly(vinylidenefluoride‐co‐hexafluoropropylene) nanofiber yarns by conjugate electrospinning

Conventional electrospinning is an efficient method to fabricate polymer nanofibers which are usually collected as non‐woven mats. Recently, in order to fabricate a nanofiber yarn, conjugate electrospinning has been developed using coupled spinnerets applied with two high electrical voltages of opposite polarities In this paper, poly(vinylidenefluoride‐co‐hexafluoropropylene) (PVDF‐HFP) nanofiber yarns are prepared by conjugate electrospinning. The effects of the concentration and delivery rate of polymer solution and the distance between coupled spinnerets on the structure of PVDF‐HFP nanofiber yarns are investigated. The structure of the nanofiber yarns is observed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The mechanical properties of the nanofiber yarns are measured by electronic fiber strength tester. The results show that the PVDF‐HFP nanofiber yarn consists of a large number of nanofibers aligned well along the longitudinal axis of the yarn, and the nanofibers have diameters ranging from several hundred nanometers to a few microns. The diameter of nanofibers in yarns increases with the increase in the polymer concentration, which significantly affects the structure of nanofiber yarns. The PVDF‐HFP nanofiber yarn electrospun from the polymer solution with a concentration of 45% has the highest tensile strength of 0.25 cN/dtex and an elongation of 180.13%.     

有色棉底布电脑测配色套色

对电脑测配色公式进行推导,建立适合有色棉底布套色的基础数据库。染料总用量相同,采用单一染料分别对空白棉织物单次和两次进行染色,结果显示分次染色后棉织物的K/S值低于单次染色。根据该现象,对现有的套色功能提出质疑。分别建立以空白棉织物和有色棉织物为底布的基础数据库并对数据库的套色准确性进行测试,结果显示直接采用有色棉织物为底布建立基础数据库获得的各染料单位浓度的K/S值应用于有色棉织物套色更符合套色的染色过程,降低了套色次数,减少了套色时间。本文根据实际情况对电脑测配色理论进行了一定程度的拓展,并为采用电脑测配色对有色棉织物修色提供了一条新的途径。     

静电纺制备纳米纤维纱方法的研究综述

概述了通过静电纺丝制备连续纳米纤维纱线的方法,并对其原理和研究情况进行了阐述与总结,这些方法大多数存在纺丝时间短、可操作性较差、纱线连续卷绕性不够等问题,只有水浴法较为成熟,基本可以实现长时间连续纺丝卷绕,获得纳米纤维长丝纱。     

基于环锭细纱机的彩色纺纱及其产品创新

纵观每年举办的国际流行纱线展,创新的针织面料有很大一部分是基于纱线色彩的多样拼接和搭配,以此呈现出不同风格及效果。因此,愈加多元丰富的面料对纱线提出了新的要求,需要以纱线为基础载体呈现多样的颜色风格及效果。目前,有色彩效果的纱线开发和研究主要聚焦在3个方面:一是基于环锭细纱机生产的段彩纱、云纹纱、麻灰纱等;二是基于四色针梳机开发的渐变色彩纱;三是基于其他新型纺纱方法,如摩擦纺、转杯纺等纺纱方法开发的纱线。文章基于前期分别在四色针梳机和摩擦纺纱机上开发不同风格彩色纱线的工作,主要介绍近期新研发的彩色纱线,分析用环锭细纱机研发彩色纱线的创新方向。     

Dyeing of Chicken Feather Fibers with Natural Dyes

ABSTRACT

In this study, coloration of the feather fibers with natural dye sources was examined. By this way it was planned to introduce colored chicken feather fibers to serve for different textile applications. For the coloration of the feather fibers, the natural dye sources “Buckthorn,” “Madder,” and “Hibiscus” were used. During the dyeing process, different mordanting agents were added to the dye bath to see the effect of the mordanting agents and also dyeing of the feather fibers without use of any mordanting agent was investigated. Afterwards samples were evaluated in terms of color efficiencies and color values. Moreover, the washing and light fastnesses of the samples were tested. As a result, it was observed that the tested natural dye sources can be used for the coloration of the chicken feather fibers and different colors can be easily obtained with the use of these natural dye sources and mordants.     

A non-aqueous dyeing process of reactive dye on cotton

Based on previous work, the feasible method for dyeing cotton with reactive dye in dye/decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane (D5) suspension system was re-established by increasing the system stability using selected surfactants, and taking the color depth (K/S value) as the evaluation index, the dyeing process parameters such as temperature, dyeing duration, pick-up ratio of alkali solution on fabric, as well as the alkali concentration were optimized further for setting up dyeing conditions. The dyeing results produced by new method showed that the dye uptake could reach nearly 100% without any salt as accelerating agent. Since just a little water was used in the process, hydrolysis of reactive dyes was restrained, fixing rate was increased, and the apparent color depth of the dyed sample was much better than traditional water bath dyeing. The washing fastness and rubbing fastness of samples were satisfactory.     

静电纺纳米纤维纱线研究进展

为拓展静电纺纳米纤维的应用领域,提高静电纺纳米纤维的力学性能,对国内外近期静电纺纳米纤维纱线的研究进展进行了综述。按照加捻方式的不同,将纤维加捻方法分为流场加捻、电场加捻和机械加捻,详细介绍了几种加捻方法,并对这些方法制备的纱线的性能参数以及方法的优劣进行了对比;讨论了静电纺丝工艺参数对纱线力学性能的影响,并介绍了几种提高纳米纤维纱线力学性能的方法;对静电纺纳米纤维纱线在智能化织物、生物工程以及电子器件领域的应用进行了总结;最后针对静电纺纳米纤维纱线中存在的问题以及未来的发展趋势进行了分析。     

新型抗菌羊毛/羊绒混纺纱线生产工艺研究

目前羊毛羊绒类产品的抗菌处理,一般是通过与各类抗菌功能性纤维混纺或在织物后整理工艺负载抗菌剂来实现.本文采用色纺散纤在染色后处理阶段进行抗菌处理,然后通过半精纺色纺工艺生产抗菌羊毛羊绒混纺纱线,对其抗菌性能进行了测试.研究表明:通过在散纤染色后处理阶段对纤维进行抗菌处理生产出的羊毛羊绒抗菌混纺纱线其纱线指标与抗菌性能优...     

Direct electrospinning of highly twisted,continuous nanofiber yarns

Yarns are key building blocks to construct complicated fibrous structures for diverse applications. Although carbon nanotube yarns have been fabricated by a few novel techniques, challenges still remain in processing other nano fibrous materials into yarns, especially during the fiber fabricating process. In this paper, we report a simple but efficient and versatile method to prepare well‐twisted continuous nanofiber yarns directly through an electrospinning process. The yarn electrospinning process used two oppositely charged electrospinning nozzles to generate a hollow nanofiber “cone” on an intermediate funnel collector. Continuous nanofiber yarns can be directly withdrawn from the “cone” apex, with up to 7400 turns per meter of twists inserted through the rotation of the funnel. The maximum yarn production rate is 5 m/min, and the yarn twist level and fiber orientation can be controlled by the funnel rotating speed and yarn withdrawal rate. The yarn tensile properties showed dependence on the twist level.     

棉／毛混纺纱卡染色工艺探讨

比较毛用活性兰纳素染料和RW型活性染料对棉／毛混纺纱卡的染色性能,探讨了RW型活性染料对棉／毛混纺纱卡的-浴染色工艺。结果表明：RW型活性染料比活性兰纳素染料得色深,匀染性好,低碱固色条件对羊毛纤维损伤小,棉／毛混纺纱卡织物强力损伤低,说明棉／毛混纺纱卡用Rw型活性染料-浴染色工艺可行,产品质量能达到客户要求。     

Investigating the effects of draw ratio,hot-pin temperature,and overfeeding on the color values of air-jet textured polyester yarns

In this study, influence of draw ratio, hot-pin temperature, and overfeeding on the color values of air-jet textured yarns, which were produced from polyester partially oriented yarn, was investigated. Two different air-jet textured yarns were produced by setting the value of only one variable to its minimum and maximum, while the reference values selected for the production of the reference yarn were used for the rest of the variables. Six different air-jet textured yarns, which were produced by varying draw ratio, hot-pin temperature, and overfeeding, and the reference air-jet textured yarn were dyed with the same dyeing procedure. Some physical properties such as linear density, tenacity, and breaking extension of the air-jet textured yarns were measured and images of the cross-section of the yarns were taken. The color coordinates of the dyed yarn samples were also measured. The color differences of six yarn samples compared to reference air-jet textured yarn were calculated. Changing draw ratio, hot-pin temperature, and overfeeding affected the color values of the air-jet textured yarns according to the results. It was found that, overfeeding is the parameter that affects the color values of the air-jet textured yarn most.     

Laccase-catalyzed in-situ dyeing of wool fabric

Compared to the traditional dyeing processes using synthetic dyes, biological dyeing method has a bright future in the textile industry due to their advantages of environmentally-friendly and milder processing conditions. Biological dyeing involves the catalysis of phenolic monomers by oxidoreductases, such as laccase, to form the colorful polymers used for dyeing. In this study, wool fabrics were treated with laccase/phenol via a one- or two-step treatment, and polymers synthesized in-situ were used to dye wool fabrics. The K/S values of the wool fabrics were evaluated under different treatment conditions, including the dosages of laccase and dye precursor, temperature, pH, mediator type, and mechanical agitation. The surface of wool fibers was examined using a scanning electron microscope (SEM). The results showed that the dyeing effect of the wool fabric samples using the single step processing method of in-situ color synthesis and fabric dyeing was better than those dyed using the two-step methods of color synthesis and fabric dyeing under the same conditions. The color depth of the dyed wool fabrics increased gradually with increasing concentration of laccase, and also depended on other process parameters, such as dosage of catechol, temperature, and pH. Moreover, addition of mediators and adjustment of mechanical agitation also improved the color depth of the wool fabrics which were dyed in-situ.     

具有间隔色彩效果的纱线制备及性能研究

采用有色涤纶长丝与天然纯棉纤维为原料,制备出一种具有间隔色彩效果的新型复合纱线.为探讨该复合纱线的工艺优化方案,研究了涤纶长丝预加张力、捻系数、后区牵伸倍数(E后)、涤纶长丝含量等工艺参数对纱线的性能影响.结果 表明,有色涤纶长丝张力为15 cN、捻系数为380、后区牵伸倍数为1.5、涤纶长丝含量为20％时,纱线的综合...     

活性染料拼色轧染过程中补液模型的研究

为探究染料拼色轧染体系中补液系统的数字化控制方法，基于拉曼光谱技术对染料拼色染色过程进行实时监测，建立了染料拼色轧染过程中的补液模型。利用拉曼光谱技术与偏最小二乘法(PLS)相结合的方法，建立拼色染料浓度的定量分析模型，实现染料拼色上染过程的实时监测，得到染料拼色上染过程中各染料的初始上染速率值；然后根据补液前后染液质量守恒和各染料质量守恒公式建立染料拼色轧染的补液模型，计算出需要实时补加的各染料质量。实验验证结果表明：通过该补液模型进行补液后，轧染的25块织物色差均保持在0.5左右，且轧染液中各染料的质量浓度基本保持不变；而以原染液质量浓度补液后织物色差达到7左右，染料质量浓度降低了50%以上；该补液模型相比原染液补液体系的准确性较高。     

TEMPO-氧化纤维素纳米纤维对染料的吸附性能及其在有色纸中的应用研究

为改善有色纸制备过程中染料流失及相关污染问题,本研究基于纳米纤维素的高比表面积和丰富官能团特点,提出将TEMPO-氧化纤维素纳米纤维（TOCNF）用于有色纸的制备,以提高染料留着率,降低废水中的染料含量,重点分析了TOCNF对染料（活性红195）的吸附性能及其对有色纸染色性能和物理性能的影响。结果表明,TOCNF对染料的吸附性能良好,上染率可达30.4%,且随着温度的提高、反应时间延长、染料浓度的提高以及TOCNF用量、NaCl用量和Na2CO3用量的增加,TOCNF对染料的吸附性能逐渐提高;TOCNF的加入不仅可显著提高有色纸染色性能（色差最高可达3.81）,而且可提高其力学性能。     

苋菜天然色素染色性能及应用

研究了苋菜红天然植物染料在不同条件下的稳定性及染色性能.通过测试染液可见吸收光谱、织物色度以及染色牢度来探讨pH、温度对苋菜红天然色素的影响及染料对丝绸织物的染色性能.结果显示:苋菜红天然染液颜色特征随pH改变而有所改变,在酸性条件下表现出比较稳定的红色调;染液在70℃以下热稳定性良好;金属离子媒染可以提升苋菜红染丝绸织物的染色深度和牢度.