涤纶机织拉毛产品的开发

通过比较针织拉毛产品和机织拉毛产品的工艺流程,讨论了两种织物的特点,叙述了涤纶机织拉毛产品的开发思路,提出了涤纶拉毛织物加工过程中的主要难点和解决这些难点的基本方法.     

铜氨纤维机织面料的生产

介绍了纯铜氨纤维机织物的浆纱、织造、前处理、染色、印花,以及后整理的加工技术和要点。铜氨纤维织物织造时应采用合理的浆纱工艺和边组织结构;前处理采用茶皂素卷装温堆、高温短蒸工艺;染色和后整理加工需严格筛选染料和柔软剂;每一加工工序均采用卷装方式,可获得手感柔软、悬垂性好、色泽饱满艳丽、色牢度佳的纯铜氨纤维机织高档服装面料。     

机织物仿真模拟方法探讨

基于机织物结构模拟中由于纱线屈曲而产生的光线反射不均衡性,文章系统分析和探讨了改进机织物外观效果的基本方法,提出了一种能够快捷、有效提高织物外观数字化模拟效果的新算法.该算法综合考虑了织物中相邻经纱或纬纱之间的部位,以及经纬纱交织的部位亮度较低,而经纬浮长的中央突出部位亮度较高,使得同一根纱线的不同部位由于在织物中所处的位置不同而产生不同亮度的情况.该算法以二维的方法模拟实际织物表面的三维效果,具有速度快、效果好的优点.     

机织弹力织物的染整

对江浙地区近几年流行的机织弹力织物从原料选用、组织结构、织造生产及染整加工等各工序作了综合论述，并列举了新产品开发的实例。     

织物组织结构对机织物力学性能的影响

纺织品组织结构对织物的外观和应用性能具有普遍的适用性,织物的最终用途在很大程度上取决于所用的材料及其物理特性。因此,织物的结构参数直接决定了织物的性能。研究了不同组织结构对织物力学性能(包括拉伸性能、撕裂性能和耐磨性能)的影响,主要探讨了平纹、斜纹和方平组织对织物力学性能的影响。     

仿机织物风格毛涤针织物的开发及性能研究

介绍了一种仿机织物风格毛涤针织物的开发与研究.生产设计时,增加了织物的涤纶质量分数和线圈密度,并加入新型高弹长丝CM800,从而在改善织物风格的同时,保证了针织物的性能特点.对所用原料进行研究分析,合理安排了生产工艺及设备,并对织物成品按照国家或行业标准进行尺寸稳定性、起毛起球、色牢度、缩率等性能测试.分析发现,该仿机织物风格毛涤针织物性能完全可达到标准要求,且仿机织物风格毛涤针织物的拉伸回复性、悬垂性及手感都优于普通针织物.     

超细纤维机织洁净布的设计

以正交法确定了织物组织和规格的最优方案,并用最优方案对超细纤维机织洁净布进行工艺设计,测试分析了织物的耐磨性、拉伸强力和芯吸性。     

角联锁织物的拉伸性能分析

介绍了角联锁织物的结构特点,采用小样箭杆织机织造了层数为2层、3层到9层的角联锁织物共8块,探讨了角联锁织物的拉伸性能与其结构层数之间的关系。结果表明,随着角联锁织物层数的增加,其断裂伸长率也会随之增加,但到一定层数时,断裂伸长率反而出现降低趋势。     

氨纶弹力机织物弹性与结构因素的关系

通过改变氨纶弹力织物的组织，经纬纱密度等结构因素，观察组物弹性值的变化。根据有关实验数据建立了弹性值与经、纬纱密度之间的幂函数数学关系模型，提出了极限纱线密度的概念，总结了结构因素对于氨纶弹力物弹性的影响，并探讨了设计中如何合理配置这些因素。     

Optimization of bending and shear rigidities of woven fabrics using desirability function

Abstract

Banding and shear properties influence the drape and handle characteristics of woven fabrics. As bending and shear rigidities of woven fabrics generally have high degree of association, it is difficult to design a woven fabric having low bending rigidity and high shear rigidity or vice versa. This paper deals with the optimization of bending and shear rigidities of woven fabrics using the desirability function approach. Low stress mechanical properties such as bending rigidity and shear rigidity have been combined to represent ‘the overall desirability’ which is varying from 0 to 1. The overall desirability has been maximized against the target values of shear and bending rigidities. It was possible to attain overall desirability of 0.684 resulting from individual desirability of 0.662 and 0.707 for banding and shear rigidities, respectively. Experimental validation confirms that the applied method can be effectively used to optimize the woven fabric mechanical properties at low stress region.     

多层机织物的组织设计

为有效快速地获得多层接结机织物的设计方法,对多层机织物组织进行研究与分析,找出多层机织物纱线之间的交织规律和表达方法,提出了子组织概念。用这种方法先画出子组织,然后能直接画出多层织物的组织图。在组织图基础上,可较容易进行各种不同形式的接结,得到不同效果的纺织增加复合材料预制件,既省时也具有较高准确性。这种方法比较适合用计算机表达,从而为CAD设计多层机织物提供了方便。     

多层接结三维机织物的制备与结构分析

以经重平为基础组织制备了两种多层接结三维织物,分别对织物进行经纬向切片,通过对设计的结构示意图、已有几何模型图和实际结构图三者的比较,明确了已有几何模型与织物真实结构的差异,得到经纬纱在不同结构中的具体分布形态。     

经纬双向弹力织物的开发

文章介绍了一种经纬均为氨纶包覆纱的双向弹力织物，探索了一种织制难度低的弹力织物的生产工艺。     

蛋白酶处理提高羊毛机织物防毡缩性能

为研究酶处理羊毛的防毡缩效果,改善处理工艺,选用4种碱性蛋白酶——Savinase、Esperase、Woolase和木瓜蛋白酶对羊毛机织物进行防毡缩处理,并选用双氧水作为前处理试剂,研究前处理对蛋白酶处理羊毛机织物的影响,证明降低双氧水处理温度和加入双氧水激活剂A对减小羊毛前处理强力损伤的作用。实验结果表明经过双氧水酶联合处理后的羊毛机织物虽然获得了较好的防毡缩处理效果,但是强力损伤现象普遍比较严重,复配酶和加入保护剂A的处理方法对减少强力损伤具有一定的作用。     

Anisotropy in wrinkle properties of woven fabric

In this paper, the wrinkle resistance of plain fabrics woven with weft yarn in S‐ and Z‐twist directions and at various twist levels in different test directions has been measured and then analysed. Results show that the wrinkle resistance increases as the weft yarn twist increases. The wrinkle properties of the fabric show that the direction of test has an obvious effect on the results and the wrinkle resistance depends on the method of folding such as face‐to‐face and back‐to‐back methods. The experimental results showed that there is anisotropy in wrinkle properties of the fabric made of yarns with different twist directions. When the fabric is folded face‐to‐face and the weft twist direction is S, the wrinkle resistance of fabric in various test directions shows a convex curvature, whereas when the same fabric is folded in a back‐to‐back manner then results show a linear curvature. This means that the wrinkle resistance of a fabric differs in various directions and in the method of folding (back‐to‐back or face‐to‐face) and shows an anisotropic wrinkle resistance nature.     

纬纱接结的三维正交机织物结构

为了研究正交机织物的实际结构,采用玻璃纤维在剑杆织机上织制了纬纱接结的6层经纱5层纬纱的正交机织物,然后利用VARI工艺与聚酯树脂复合,制成了复合材料板材试样,并在显微镜下观测纱线的形状。研究发现:三维正交机织物的经、纬纱基本呈直线状态,接结纬纱是曲线与直线组合的形状,且形状与在织物中的位置有关,越靠近织物中央,接结纬纱的直线部分越短;接结纬纱使其限定的经纱产生聚集现象,在复合材料中产生贫富树脂区,接结纬纱形状的变化也使织物的结构不均匀。对织造过程的分析表明,造成接结纬纱形状变化的原因是织物形成过程中接结纬纱的滑动,从织物边部到中央,接结纬纱的滑动阻力逐渐增大,接结纬纱的张力也逐渐增大。     

空心纱机织物的工艺研究

优选了121．9cm C（V）18．4（9．8）／18．4（9．8）433／283空心纱机织物的生产工艺,重点改善了浆纱和退维工艺,为避免浆纱时水溶维纶芯纱溶化而采用低温上浆工艺,偏低掌握烘筒温度;为使退维彻底干净,合理选择了煮沸时间和浴比。     

Inspecting anisotropy in wrinkle recovery angle of woven fabric

In this paper, the anisotropic wrinkle recovery properties of plain and twill fabrics are explored by studying the variations of the wrinkle recovery angle with sample orientation angle. Orientation angle is the angle measured counterclockwise from the weft direction to the sample’s long axis, that is, the crease direction. This study focused on inspecting anisotropy in wrinkle recovery to find more effective test angles for different woven fabrics. A dynamic wrinkle recovery tester was used to measure the recovery angles of specimens automatically which were cut in various directions. The trend of plain fabrics shows that its recovery angle generally increases at first and then decreases with the increase in the orientation angle. The trend of twill fabrics differs in folding ways. The experimental results revealed that the wrinkle recovery angles of the woven fabrics had the lowest values near the orientation angles of 0° and 90°, i.e. the warp and weft directions, and therefore these two traditionally used directions in the standard test method did not best reflect the wrinkle recovery yielded from both warps and wefts. The diagonal direction (45°) was proven to be the optimal orientation angle for a balanced plain fabric, while the two orthogonal directions, i.e. the twill direction and its perpendicular direction, were found to be more relevant for a twill fabric. Optimal orientation angles used to test the wrinkle recovery angle of a woven fabric should be associated with its structure.     

家庭滚筒洗衣机洗涤温度对机织物外观平整性的影响

家庭滚筒洗衣机洗涤衣物时,水、洗涤温度的共同作用对织物外观平整性影响显著,合适的温度设定有助于洗衣机的参数优化。文中选取5种常见白色普通整理的机织物,在滚筒洗衣机温度分别为室温20、30、45、60、75 ℃条件下洗涤,测试其洗后外观平整度、洗涤前后弯曲刚度及剪切刚度等指标。研究发现,洗涤温度较低时,机织物外观平整度较好;洗涤温度增大时,机织物平整度降低,洗后弯曲刚度及剪切刚度减小。纯棉织物20℃与75℃洗后的平整度最大差值为1.6级;涤纶织物20℃与75℃洗后的平整度最大差值为3.8级,洗涤温度对涤纶织物平整度的影响较棉织物大。研究成果可为机织物家庭滚筒洗涤温度的设置提供依据。     

机织土工织物结构参数与渗透性关系探讨

探讨了机织土工织物的织物组织、纱线细度、经纬纱密度等因素对织物渗透性的影响。确定了织物组织结构参数与渗透系数之间的回归关系。通过改变织物的组织结构参数使土工布具有不同的水力学性能,从而满足不同工程的要求。