Theoretical and experimental analysis of bending rigidity of plain and twill woven fabrics

The study of bending behavior of woven fabrics is an important issue in textile scientific researches and its industrial applications. Different behavior of fabrics such as drape, comfort, and handling can be understood by this study. Bending rigidity of fabric depends on several factors such as weave geometry, bending rigidity of yarn, and yarn density. In this study, estimation of bending rigidity of woven fabric with different twill and plain structures, have been carried out using energy method. Generally, the woven fabric structure is divided into three different section lengths i.e. rigid, semi-rigid, and flexible sections. Thereafter, bi-component and tri-component models for predicting bending behavior of plain and twill woven fabric have been presented. Then, bending properties of fabric based on Shirley apparatus as well as weight per area as a physical property were measured. Good agreement between measured and predicted values, validated our theoretical models for obtaining bending rigidity, except considerable differences observed between experimental and predicted values using bi-component model of plain fabric. Therefore, using assumptions in calculation of the ratio of rigid section length to flexible section length (R₁), the modified model of plain fabric has been proposed.     

纯棉纱线合股数对织物性能的影响

为研究纯棉纱线合股数对织物力学性能和保形性的影响,采用线密度相同的单纱、双股线、3股线、4股线4种股线类型,以适当的经、纬密分别织制成平纹、斜纹、缎纹组织的织物。对织物的拉伸性能、撕裂强力、拉伸弹性、折皱回复性、悬垂性、弯曲性进行测试与分析。结果表明:3股线织物的断裂强力和撕裂强力较大,4股线织物的断裂伸长率较大,双股线织物的拉伸弹性回复率较大;平纹织物仅有双股线织物的折皱回复性优于单股线织物,斜纹和缎纹织物的折皱回复性随合股数的增加均变差;双股线平纹织物悬垂性相对较好,但均没有斜纹和缎纹织物的悬垂性好;单纱织物的弯曲性能比股线织物好。     

Modeling the effect of elastane linear density,fabric thread density,and weave float on the stretch,recovery, and compression properties of bi-stretch woven fabrics for compression garments

The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of elastane linear density, thread density, and weave float on the stretch, recovery, and compression properties of bi-stretch woven fabrics for compression garments. Fabric samples were produced using elastane core-spun cotton yarns both in the warp and weft. The elastane linear density, fabric thread density, and weave float size were used as input variables while fabric contraction, subgarment pressure, fabric stretch, and recovery were taken as response variables. Two different elastane linear densities, i.e. 44 and 78 dtex, two different thread densities, and three different weave designs, i.e. 1/1 plain, 2/2 z-twill, and 3/3 z-twill were used. The results of fabric samples were analyzed in Minitab statistical software. The coefficients of determinations (R-sq values) of the regression equations showed good prediction ability of the developed statistical models. The findings of the study may be helpful in deciding appropriate manufacturing specifications of bi-stretch fabrics to attain specific stretch, recovery, and compression properties.     

Investigation of fabric drape-flexural rigidity relation: modified fabric drape coefficient

Abstract

The drape is an important characteristic of textile fabrics. Several studies have been concerned with the mechanism of fabric drapability and the methods of its measurements. In this study, a new drape coefficient ‘DCM’, evaluating the shape of the fabric drape, is defined in terms of the drape projection, the shape and the number of the folds and the drape angle. The drape of fabric samples with different weft densities and weaves structures was tested. The new formula to express the drape coefficient, taking into consideration the fabric flexural rigidity, was developed. The analysis of the experimental results indicated that the modified drape coefficient is highly correlated with fabric flexure rigidity and other fabric structure properties than the other known formulas.     

PTT/绢丝混纺织物的风格及服用性能

为了将PTT纤维的形状记忆性与蚕丝优异的服用性能相互融合,以绢纺工艺将PTT纤维与绢丝混纺,制成混纺比为50:50的PTT/绢丝混纺纱,并以其为经纬纱设计织造了5种PTT/绢丝混纺面料,此外还以相同规格织造了3种纯绢纺纱对比试样。测定了这8种织物的手感、悬垂性及保形性(折皱回复性、拉伸回弹性)、透通性(透气、透湿性)和抗起毛起球性能,对比分析了PTT/绢丝混纺织物和纯绢丝织物的风格和服用性能。研究结果表明：PTT纤维对绢纺织物的风格与服用性能有良好的改善作用,与纯绢丝织物相比,PTT/绢丝混纺织物的折皱回复性、拉伸回弹性提高,柔软性和悬垂性好,滑糯性、透通性和抗起毛起球性能略差。     

混纺比对棉与竹浆/棉纱交织物弯曲性能的影响

 为进一步利用竹浆纤维的特性开发优良面料,采用了5种不同混纺比的竹浆/棉混纺纬纱与纯棉经纱交织,共设计开发了15种不同规格的面料,对其悬垂性、刚柔性、折皱性进行测试比较。结果表明：和纯棉织物比较,棉与竹浆/棉纱交织物的悬垂性、刚柔性和抗皱性得到显著改善;随着纬纱混纺比中竹浆纤维含量的增加,交织物静、动态悬垂因数减小,悬垂感和形态效果得到有效改善;交织物的抗弯刚度和抗弯弹性模量减小,柔软性提高;交织物弹性回复角增大,折皱回复性能提高,其抗皱性也显著提高;当织物组织、原料及经密相同时,随着交织物中纬密的增大,其悬垂性和刚柔性变差,织物的急、缓弹性回复性能呈下降趋势。当竹浆/棉纬纱混纺比为55/45时,其服用织物形态对称性较差,应慎重选用。     

织物结构对热敏变色纤维织物呈色效果的影响

为了研究织物结构对热敏变色纤维织物呈色效果的影响,经纱采用棉纱,纬纱选用热敏变色粘胶长丝纱,设计织造了5种不同组织结构的机织物,对其变色前后的颜色空间值、三刺激值、彩度以及白度等颜色指标进行了测试,并分析了织物组织及纬密对热敏变色纤维织物呈色效果的影响及显著性。研究结果表明:织物组织对织物明度、彩度和色相偏红程度影响显著,对白度影响不显著。平纹织物的明度和白度最高,缎纹织物的彩度和色相偏红程度最高;织物纬密对明度影响显著,对彩度、白度、色相偏红程度影响不显著,随着纬密的增加,织物色相偏红程度呈增加趋势。研究结果对热敏变色纤维织物的设计开发具有一定的参考价值。     

24—THE EFFECT OF FIBRE PROPERTIES AND WEAVE CRIMP ON THE HYGRAL EXPANSION OF WOVEN WOOL FABRICS

A study is reported in which 53 plain-weave and 55 twill-weave fabrics were produced under nominally identical conditions from different wool lots ranging greatly in fibre properties. The hygral expansion of these fabrics was measured and related to the various fibre properties and weave crimp.

It was found that fabric geometry, as reflected in weave crimp, was the most important factor contributing to hygral expansion, higher weave crimp leading to higher hygral expansion. Weave crimp also increased with an increase in staple crimp, as did hygial expansion, the effect of staple crimp being largely due to its effect on weave crimp.

Results obtained on the 108 all-wool fabrics and on six mohair fabrics produced under identical conditions to the all-wool fabrics indicated that weave crimp rather than fibre properties per se plays the main rôle in determining hygral expansion.     

Evaluating drape shape in woven fabrics

A search of the scientific literature for the period 1950–2013 retrieved 36 different drape indicators. Despite the large number of indicators currently available, the drape ratio (%DR) continues to be the most widely used, even though it has proved inadequate to explain drape shape. In order to assess their actual performance, the 36 currently existing drape indicators were determined in a total of 37 commercial drapery, woolmaking, shirtmaking and lining woven fabrics spanning a wide range of composition, aerial weight and weave type using a digital Cusick drape meter. A correlation analysis between indicators, and subsequent suppression of duplicity and collinearity, revealed that seven were mutually correlated. A principal component analysis of the results revealed an underlying structure consisting of three common factors which allowed the indicators to be classified into three different groups according to drape intensity (a), severity (b) and shape symmetry and variability (c). Cluster analysis was additionally used to examine the results in graphical form and exposed three clusters coinciding with the three factors of the underlying structure. A criterion for distinguishing fabrics with an identical drape ratio in terms of drape shape based on sequential application of four of the seven initially selected indicators was developed and experimentally validated.     

Introducing and optimizing a novel mesh for simulating knitted fabric

In this paper, a mass spring system is developed to simulate the draping behavior of knitted fabric. A new type of mesh based on loop structure, which is called Loop mesh, is introduced. The effective properties on fabric drape are measured using the Fast system, and the experimental data are incorporated into the mass spring model to simulate the draping behavior of knitted fabrics. 3D shape of real drape behavior of fabric samples is achieved using depth camera. Then in order to reduce error value between simulated and real results, distances between mass points in the Loop mesh are optimized using the Imperialistic Competitive Algorithm (ICA). In order to investigate validity and accuracy of the Loop mesh, drape behavior of knitted fabrics falling over a square table are also simulated using common meshes. It can be found that the Loop mesh produced a closest drape shape to the real fabric drape than other mesh models. Finally, fabrics drape is simulated in other situations and compared with its real result to validate the proposed model. Results show that the optimized model is able to simulate the drape behavior of knitted fabric with error value of 4.29 percent.     

荡领造型的影响因素分析

采用5种性能不同的面料,分别测量出它们的厚度、悬垂性、面密度、抗弯刚度等物理性能.在结构设计中以剪开量的不同为参考因素,用不同面料制作连身肩部无褶的荡领,并对其进行褶皱测量.根据面料性能、剪开量及褶皱测量的数据,分析面料的性能和结构参数对荡领造型的影响.结果显示:荡领的褶皱造型与剪开量有密切关系;同种面料,荡领褶皱的数...     

Tensile characteristics and stress relaxation analysis of woven fabrics in terms of fabric direction

Abstract

Woven fabrics in various end uses are subjected to tensile loads in different directions, so investigation of the effect of fabric direction on the tensile behaviour and the stress relaxation performance of fabrics is important and needs to be considered. In this study, the tensile and stress relaxation properties of woven fabrics with five various weave structures have been analysed, in different directions. It was concluded that the tensile properties of fabrics such as Young’s modulus, breaking load and elongation and also the work of rupture were significantly affected by the fabric direction and weave structure. Moreover, it was determined that the fabric tensile stress relaxation (%) was considerably affected by the applied strain level, fabric direction and weave structure in the confidence range of 95% and it might well be expressed as a Gaussian function of sample direction.     

组织结构对纺织品用作细胞固定化载体的影响

细胞固定化技术是生物工程中研究热点之一,纺织品在用作细胞固定化载体方面具有极大的潜力。设计并织造了几种不同组织结构的织物,通过比较不同组织结构的织物载体对细胞的吸附量和吸附稳定性,考察了在细胞固定化过程中纺织品载体的结构特征对其吸附行为的影响。研究表明,在细胞固定化过程中,织物载体的组织结构特征对细胞吸附量和吸附稳定性有显著影响;织物载体对细胞的固定化不同与对小分子物质的吸附,除了比表面积和孔径因素外,细胞本身的特性对固定化效果也有影响。     

几种不同组织结构的衬衫面料保形性研究

根据常见的衬衫面料组织结构,使用JC9.7 tex纱线设计了6种不同组织结构的面料,研究不同组织结构对织物保形性的影响。对面料的保形性(尺寸稳定性、抗折皱性、外观平整度、抗起毛起球性、顶破性、悬垂性)及舒适性(透气、透湿性)进行了测试。结果表明:组织结构对织物的折皱回复角、外观平整度等级、顶破强力、透湿量与透气率有直接影响;织物紧度太大、太小都不利于织物的折皱回复,相同紧度下斜纹组织的抗皱性比平纹好;6种组织结构中2/2斜纹组织抗折皱性最好,2/2方平组织的顶破强力、抗起毛起球等级最高,2/2破斜纹透气、透湿性最好,2/2斜纹组织具有良好的保形性。     

基于三维悬垂模型和织物面密度的织物匹配

为能够根据织物的悬垂形态快速准确地匹配到与给定织物综合性能相近的织物样本,利用自主搭建的悬垂织物三维扫描装置获取了悬垂织物的三维点云数据。将三维点云封装为三角形网络后,利用局部线性嵌入的方法对悬垂织物三角形网格重采样,使不同的悬垂织物三维模型具有相同的顶点数目和三角形拓扑结构;然后基于重采样三角形网格提出了2种织物匹配方法,即基于传统悬垂指标和织物面密度的织物匹配以及基于曲率统计直方图和织物面密度的织物匹配;最后计算了织物力学特征的相似度,以此相似度为基准对织物匹配结果进行评价。结果表明:基于悬垂指标和织物面密度的织物匹配准确率为86.91%;基于曲率统计直方图和织物面密度的织物匹配准确率为93.79%。     

透气女士西服面料的设计与开发

文章利用小样织机通过对织物组织的合理选择以及组织结构的变化,开发了九种透气女士西服面料,并对其透气性、缩水性、耐皱性能进行了测试和分析。     

精纺毛织物悬垂性研究

选取了19种精纺毛织物,运用KES- FB织物风格测试仪测试织物拉伸剪切性能、弯曲性能和表面性能,运用动态悬垂风格仪测试织物悬垂性指标,且进行相关分析和回归分析.结果表明:精纺毛织物的静态悬垂系数是一个很重要的悬垂性指标,与大多数悬垂性指标都呈高度正相关关系;且织物静态悬垂系数越大,则硬挺度系数也越高,织物美感系数就越高.通过回归分析得出了织物剪切性、弯曲性及拉伸线性度与静态悬垂系数之间的方程式,此方程可以用来预测精纺毛织物静态悬垂系数.     

Enhancing accuracy of drape simulation. Part I: Investigation of drape variability via 3D scanning

The objective of this two part paper is to present a method of enhancing accuracy of fabric drape simulation using commercially available software. In Part I, we report results of an investigation of drape variability for a set of fabrics having varied mechanical properties, an essential step in defining accuracy for drape simulation. Results illustrate that fabric drape behaviour is highly variable and thus provide no single drape configuration to target with simulation. Development of a revolutionary method for capturing drape of actual fabrics and measuring that drape in a virtual three-dimensional (3D) environment is also presented. The method allows identical drape measurement processes to be implemented for actual and simulated fabrics and provides opportunity for use of additional measures to assess fabric drape in three dimensions. The accomplishments presented in this paper are utilized to demonstrate, in Part II, development of a relationship that enhances realism of particle model simulations generated using the commercial drape simulation software.     

Application of discriminant analysis to parameters describing the drape for two types of woven fabrics

A total of 33 commercial drapery and lining fabrics were used to determine the drape indicators drape ratio and R-factor. The slope of a plot of one indicator against the other was found not to afford complete characterization of drape shape for fabrics of different commercial use. In this work, further six parameters describing the drape, proposed by the authors to discriminate drape shapes were also calculated. Discriminant analysis of the data revealed that a linear combination of various parameters allowed two types of woven fabrics (viz. drapery and linen) to be distinguished. The discriminant function used accurately classified 75.76% of the fabrics studied.     

Y形涤纶纤维机织物的开发与性能分析

为了研究Y形涤纶纤维机织物的性能,利用Y形涤纶纤维的纯纺纱以及与棉纤维的混纺纱线,设计开发了16种平纹和斜纹组织织物,对其吸湿排汗性能如吸湿性、透湿性、 吸水性及快干性进行了测试与分析。结果表明：较稀疏、轻薄的混纺织物比纯纺织物透湿性好;而较紧密、厚实的纯纺织物比混纺织物透湿性好；随着织物组织结构紧密度和厚度的增加,Y形涤纶纤维织物的干燥速度下降。