仿针织牛仔面料的开发及性能评价

为获得兼具针织和机织牛仔面料优点的新型牛仔面料,从纱线的选择、织造、后整理等方面探讨了仿针织牛仔面料的开发。对比测试了仿针织牛仔面料、针织牛仔面料、纯棉机织牛仔面料等5 种面料的拉伸断裂强力、撕破强力、色牢度等指标,并利用川端织物风格评价系统对牛仔面料的拉伸、剪切、弯曲、压缩、表面摩擦5 项指标进 行织物风格综合分析。结果表明,采用精梳纯棉纱作为经纱,涤纶长丝氨纶包芯纱作为纬纱,选择复合右斜纹组织,经特殊后整理工艺后生产的仿针织牛仔面料经向拉伸断裂强力高达685 N,撕破强力达59 N,粗犷挺括,柔软舒适,弹性和保型性俱佳,克服了针织牛仔面料和机织牛仔面料的风格缺陷。     

喷气涡流纺成纱工艺对色纺竹浆纤维针织物性能的影响

为研究喷气涡流色纺成纱工艺参数对色纺竹浆纤维针织物性能的影响,基于Box-Behnken设计方法,借助Minitab16软件,分析探讨了喷气涡流纺成纱工艺（喷嘴气压、纱线线密度、纺纱速度）对色纺竹浆纤维针织物断裂强力、透气性、悬垂性及耐磨性的影响。结果表明：纱线线密度减小,织物断裂强力下降,透气性和悬垂性先显著增加,而后略有下降;纺纱速度提高,织物断裂强力缓慢减小,透气性降低,悬垂性增加;喷嘴气压对针织物断裂强力、透气性、耐磨性均无显著影响,但当喷嘴气压增加时,织物悬垂性能先增加后降低;织物耐磨性主要受纺纱速度和纱线线密度的影响,且影响较为复杂。     

不锈钢丝包芯纱针织物电磁屏蔽性能研究

采用涤纶长丝、棉粗纱和超细316L不锈钢丝在HN32-04型棉纺花式捻线机上纺制不锈钢丝包芯纱,并在龙星LXC-252SCV型电脑横机上编织纬平针织物及浮线添纱针织物。介绍纺纱原理及编织工艺,并测试不锈钢丝包芯纱的拉伸性能以及针织物的电磁屏蔽效能。结果表明,不锈钢丝包芯纱的平均拉伸断裂强力为38.96 N,位移为124.30 mm,其拉伸过程分为不锈钢丝断裂、纱线中纤维抽拔、纱线断裂过程。随着电磁波频率的不断增强,纬平针织物和浮线添纱针织物的电磁屏蔽效能下降。针织物结构不同,织物紧密程度和线圈大小不同,对不同频段电磁波的屏蔽能力也不同。     

Finite element modelling the mechanical performance of pressure garments produced from elastic weft knitted fabrics

Compression garments mainly produced from elastic knitted fabrics have attracted many attentions due to their medical care performances. Components’ characteristics of the pressure garments such as yarn and fabric structure affect significantly the pressure applied on the human body. In this paper, it is aimed to simulate the effect of yarn’s mechanical properties as well as fabric structure on mechanical performance of the compression garment. For this purpose, a precise geometrical model for fabric structure is needed by which the pressure applied to the body could be predicted. Accordingly, double jersey knitted fabrics containing elastane weft yarns were produced on an electronic flat knitting machine and the fabric tensile properties were measured in course direction. Using equations governing the fabric structural unit-cell, a real geometric model was created in a finite element software environment. Considering the linear visco-elastic properties for elastane weft yarn, stress-strain curve was extracted. The results obtained from numerical simulation were compared with the experimental data in order to validate the proposed geometrical model. The findings demonstrate a good agreement between experimental and simulation results.     

The effect of resin finish on the dimensional stability of cotton knitted fabric

In this article, the effect of resin finish on the degree of set is discussed. Furthermore, the relationship of the degree of set and dimensional stability is analyzed. After relaxation treatments, the yarns in a fabric would be set at a certain level. As the fabric is subjected to prolonged relaxation treatments, the yarn will become more set until the shape of the unraveled yarn is similar to the shape of the loop in the fabric. The yarn that is removed from a knitted fabric has a curvature value close to zero, and the curvature is exactly as the corresponding position at the knitted loop. From previous research, it is known that the degree of set affects the dimensional properties in a plain knitted fabric. In this article, the degree of set increases with resin level. It explains why the resin finish can stabilize the dimensional properties indirectly.     

基于数字图像相关法的纱线和织物微观变形测量

为连续、精确地测量纱线和织物组织单元的拉伸变形量,结合数字图像相关法(DIC),提出一种微观尺度下的单轴拉伸变形测量方法。首先选取4种织物,从织物中抽取纱线、裁剪织物试样,并制作合理的散斑。然后对纱线和织物试样分别进行单轴拉伸实验并用相机记录整个过程。最后在DIC测试软件中添加引伸计,计算拉伸过程中单纱分段线应变以及织物单元结构在经、纬方向上的线应变。结果表明：单纱拉伸过程中,各处线应变增长速率不同;织物微小变形下内部结构呈非均匀变形,其中纬编针织物线圈变形不均匀性更为明显。基于DIC的微观变形测量方法揭示了纱线和织物生产、应用中的微量变形规律,为智能可穿戴电子纺织品的设计与应用提供指导。     

Effect of Pique and Honeycomb Structures on Moisture Management Properties of Eri Silk Knitted Fabrics

ABSTRACT

The present study aims to investigate the moisture management and wicking properties of eri knitted fabrics. In this study, two different knit structures, namely, single pique and honeycomb fabric, were developed with the combinations of two different tightness values of slack and tight by using 2/80s Nm and 2/140s Nm eri silk yarns. The developed fabrics were analyzed for vertical wicking, moisture management properties such as wetting time, spreading speed, absorption rate, maximum wetting radius, accumulative one-way transport index (AOTI), and overall moisture management capacity (OMMC). Variables such as yarn linear density, tightness, and knitting structure have a significant influence on the wicking and moisture management properties. The overall OMMC indices of eri silk knitted fabric lie in the ‘very good’ to ‘excellent’ category, indicating the suitability of eri silk yarn for skin fit as well as active wear applications.     

Influence of process variables on antimicrobial properties of cotton knitted fabrics

ABSTRACT

This work discusses the influence of process variables on antimicrobial properties of cotton single jersey knitted fabrics. The antimicrobial process variables are optimized based on the Box-Benken experimental design using design-expert software 8.0 to predict the optimum process parameter for achieving the required level of antimicrobial properties. The effects of process parameters such as yarn count, loop length, and finishing % of the zone of inhibition (ZOI) against the Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus microbes on cotton knitted fabric have been carried out. Result shows that except yarn count other parameters are not significant toward the ZOI against microbes.     

A new approach to de‐curling force of single jersey weft‐knitted fabric

In this work, the curling behavior of cotton single jersey weft‐knitted fabric was studied using a new non‐destructive test method. Eighteen series of dry‐relaxed weft‐knitted fabric samples were produced with three different yarn twist levels (724.5 tpm, 807 tpm, and 890 tpm), two yarn twist directions (Z and S), and three different loop lengths (2.7 mm, 2.85 mm, and 3.2 mm). Curling behavior was characterized in terms of curling distance (CD), de‐curling force, and de‐curling energy. The results show that weft‐knitted fabric samples with a lower loop length and higher yarn twist level exhibited higher de‐curling force and de‐curling energy. It is indicated that the de‐curling force of weft‐knitted fabric samples produced from the Z‐twist cotton ring‐spun yarn is higher than that of the samples produced from the S‐twist cotton ring‐spun yarn. The regression analysis results also illustrate that de‐curling force and de‐curling energy are non‐linearly correlated with edge CD, and variation trends follow polynomial equations. The result of this research suggests that the curling behavior of weft‐knitted fabric can be predicted in terms of de‐curling properties.     

Modeling the mechanical and compression properties of polyamide/elastane knitted fabrics used in compression sportswear

A compression sportswear fabric should have excellent stretch and recovery properties in order to improve the performance of the sportsman. The objective of this study was to investigate the effect of elastane linear density and loop length on the stretch, recovery, and compression properties of the weft-knitted polyamide/elastane (PA/EL) stretchable fabrics used in sportswear. Two different tests were performed to study the stretch and recovery properties of the fabric 1st: under low power force and 2nd: cyclic loading under high tension force. Kikuhime pressure sensor was used to measure the pressure generated by different PA/EL knitted sample garment sleeves. It was found that with the increase in elastane linear density there is an increase in fabric course density, areal density, recovery percentage, and compression, and fabric stretch percentage and elongation percentage decreased in both course and wale direction. The results of fabric samples were analyzed in Minitab statistical software. The coefficients of determinations (R² values) of the regression equations showed good prediction ability of the developed statistical models.     

纬编间隔织物的吸声性能

研究表面织物层为锦氨包芯纱的纬编间隔织物的吸声性能,分析对比不同织物结构参数,包括间隔纱的隔针数、表面层线圈弯纱深度和间隔纱的线密度对织物吸声系数的影响。实验结果表明,提高间隔纱的隔针数和线密度,以及降低表面线圈弯纱深度可以提升织物的吸声性能,这对企业生产具有一定指导意义。     

几种纬编增强材料拉伸性能探讨

在相同材料及编织工艺的情况下,用龙星电脑横机编织四种不同组织结构的纬编针织物,分别对其纵横向进行拉伸性能测试,探讨其作为增强体的承载能力及纱线在织物中的强力贡献率。结果表明:在研究范围内,四种组织结构织物作为增强材料的优劣次序为双罗纹空气层组织、罗纹空气层组织、间隔组织、双反面组织;增强材料中沿纵横向受力的纱线越多,其强力越大,但并非呈线性关系;用无捻涤纶长丝编织的增强材料结构中,纱线的强力贡献率相对较低。     

Ring frame process parameters and fabric comfort. Part I – low-stress mechanical properties of fabrics

Influence of ring frame process parameters, namely twist multiplier of yarn, spindle speed and ring frame draft, on some of the yarn characteristics has been studied. The low-stress mechanical characteristics of woven and knitted fabrics made out of these yarns have also been reported in the present paper. Yarn packing factor, which is directly related with the yarn diameter, has direct impact on fabric comfort related characteristics. All the studied ring frame process parameters, i.e. yarn twist, ring frame draft and spindle speed, have inverse effect on the yarn diameter, which means the yarn diameter reduces with the increase in one of the process parameters by keeping the other two parameters constant. The impact of draft on reduction in yarn diameter is found to be higher as compare to other two parameters. All these ring frame process parameters have significant impact on other yarn parameters also. The increase in yarn twist, spindle speed and draft result in increase in flexural rigidity, unevenness and imperfections of yarn and decrease in yarn hairiness. All the low-stress mechanical properties, i.e. tensile, shear, bending, compression and surface, of both woven and knitted are affected by the above ring frame parameters. The thickness of fabrics changes with the yarn compactness, i.e. with the reduction in yarn diameter. The study revealed that by changing the above ring frame process parameters, it is possible to manipulate the fabric handle characteristics without changing the fabric constructional parameters.     

Analysis of warp knitted fabric structure. Part V: experimental study on the initial modulus of warp knitted fabrics

In the previous parts of this series, tensile properties of warp knitted fabrics were investigated using energy method. For this purpose, the geometry of fully threaded two-guide bar structures, i.e. tricot, locknit, reverse locknit, satin and sharkskin were modeled by considering the fabric density, yarn diameter and the number of front and back bar underlaps. Then, the theoretical models for the initial modulus of aforementioned structures were obtained. In the present study, the initial modulus of actual fabrics has been calculated using presented models in previous parts. Then, a new test method was defined for tensile testing of warp knitted fabric, specifically. Thereafter, the initial modulus of prepared samples has been measured by using tensile tester in order to compare with theoretical values, based on derived test conditions. Reasonable agreements between theoretical and experimental results showed that generated models are capable to predict the initial modulus of fully threaded two-guide bar warp knitted fabrics, adequately.     

基于导电纤维针织物的柔性传感器研究

本文以4种镀银纱纬编针织物为试样,测试了其单向拉伸时的导电性能,考察了拉伸性能对其电阻的影响。研究结果表明,在小应变的情况下,电阻与其应变成线性关系;竖条纹双罗纹针织物的灵敏度最大,横条纹双罗纹针织物的次之,镀银纱纬平针织物的最小;纱线间接触电阻的变化是引起纬平针织物电阻变化的最关键因素;将双罗纹织物重复拉伸来模拟心跳信号,结果显示电阻能基本稳定在一个值上,可以满足传感器稳定性的要求。     

纬编针织增强复合材料的拉伸性能

在电脑横机上用玻璃纤维编织4种不同结构的针织物,作为纬编针织增强复合材料的增强体。采用VARTM工艺复合加工,对这4种纬编针织增强复合材料的纵、横向拉伸性能进行测试,并对拉伸应力与应变特征曲线进行分析;阐述集圈、浮线对纬编针织增强复合材料拉伸性能的影响。结果表明:取向度和拉伸方向上受力纱线根数是影响这4种结构增强复合材料拉伸性能的主要因素;复合材料的破坏形式说明玻璃纤维针织物增强体与树脂结合良好,有潜在的应用价值。     

Investigation of mechanical behavior of woven/knitted hybrid composites

The objective of this research is to develop the woven/knitted hybrid composites for improved in plane as well as out of plane mechanical properties. Two different type of structures and two different materials were used in this study. Firstly, the woven and knitted fabrics were developed with glass and Kevlar yarn. Secondly, the laminated composite samples were fabricated with different stacking sequence of fabric plies. The epoxy resin was used as matrix. The cured samples were characterized for impact, tensile and dynamic mechanical properties. The behavior of composite materials was then analyzed with percentages of different fiber and fabric types. The samples with higher percentages of knitted reinforcement gave better impact strength but failed to provide better tensile properties. Moreover, the samples with higher percentages of woven structure and glass materials gives better modulus values.     

基于运动疲劳调查分析的紧身跑步裤设计

通过问卷调查,得到人体跑步时下肢各部分肌肉疲劳程度。采用锦氨包芯纱和锦纶在Santoni SM8 TOP2无缝内衣机上编织12种不同结构针织面料,采用定伸长拉伸测试面料拉伸性能。选用拉伸至相同拉伸率时所需拉伸力较大的几种面料制作紧身跑步裤,介绍紧身跑步裤结构设计和尺寸设计,对紧身跑步裤穿着效果进行主观测评。结果表明,人体跑步时下肢腓肠肌内侧、臀大肌、股直肌3个部位最易疲劳,不同组织的针织面料产生服装压不同,基于跑步时下肢疲劳状态设计的紧身跑步裤合理,能在保证人体穿着舒适的前提下达到减缓疲劳的目的。该研究为紧身服装的服装压分配、尺寸设计及制作提供参考。     

Comparison of fabric properties knitted by pin spacer compact and conventional compact yarns

This study examined the influence of pin spacer apparatus attachment on compact yarn quality parameters and physical properties of knitted fabrics manufactured using those 100% cotton compact yarns. Two groups of compact yarns were spun on regular compact yarn spinning frame with and without addition of pin spacer apparatus which is placed at the end of the drawing unit of regular compact yarn spinning frame. Totally eight yarns were spun at four different yarn number levels (Ne 24/1, Ne 30/1, Ne 36/1 and Ne 40/1) and two different spinning conditions (with and without pin spacer apparatus). Spun yarn types were then knitted on the industrial sized plain knitting machine. Knitted fabrics were used in the greige and dyed form to evaluate their bursting strength (kPa), dimensional change, abrasion related mass loss (%), pilling resistance, air permeability (mm/s) and colour difference. Test results were then statistically evaluated and influence of pin spacer attachment on yarn quality parameters and fabric properties was determined. In the frame of this experimental work, attachment of pin spacer apparatus improved compact yarn characteristics especially at yarn evenness, imperfection and hairiness values. In case of knitted fabric properties, it was found that pin spacer apparatus attached compact yarn utilization significantly improved air permeability properties of knitted fabrics.     

真空汽蒸对锦纶弹性织物的影响

对无缝内衣常用的锦纶、锦氨包芯纱长丝进行了真空汽蒸处理,检测了纱线强力指标的变化,并研究了纱线经真空汽蒸处理后对织物手感、染色等指标的影响。结果表明,锦纶长丝在真空汽蒸处理后断裂强度、初始模量、屈服强力下降,断裂伸长率增加;锦氨包芯纱中的氨纶长丝在真空汽蒸处理后断裂强度、初始模量下降,弹性回复率变差,塑性变形率增大。面纱锦纶长丝和地纱锦氨包芯纱均经过真空汽蒸处理后的织物较轻薄,手感更加柔软、滑糯,悬垂性和透气性良好,但刚性稍差,织物的幅宽会相应增加;另外,织物的匀染性和织物的K/S值有所提高。