Investigation on wicking behavior of the knitted fabrics under different deformation state

Many researches have been carried out to analyze the wicking behavior of the knitted fabric based on different principles. In this study, an investigation on wicking behavior of knitted fabrics under different deformation condition is attempted. An instrument has been designed and developed to measure the wicking rate of the fabric based on the principle of image processing technique under dynamic states with respect to time by simulating different movements. This instrument has been aimed to quantify the rate of wicking under different deformations in required time intervals and also the pattern of wicking area on both sides of fabric simultaneously. The statistical result shows that wicking in fabric under dynamic condition has been increased significantly on the knitted fabrics than the static condition. The comparative study of wicking trend at the front and back has been carried out and shows that the area of wicking is higher in front than back side of the fabric at any given period of time. The result shows that wicking in fabric under dynamic condition has been increased significantly on all the knitted fabric. The developed novel instrument could be utilized to carry out the study of the wicking behavior of any kind of fabrics matching to the real situation with higher accuracy and precision.     

Mathematical model to predict vertical wicking profile of single weft knitted structure

Mathematical models has been proposed to predict the vertical wicking height in single weft knitted fabric considering two scales of capillary flow; macroscale capillary flow through capillaries formed between yarns in the fabric, and microscale capillary flow through capillaries formed with in yarn. Macroscale model has been developed based on the sinusoidal irregular capillary to predict wicking profile along the wale and course directions. Microscale capillary model was developed considering capillaries as tortuous stream tubes along the wale and along the course. Another model based on inclined tube capillary has been developed to predict the wicking along wale. Lambert function has been used to calculate wicking height at different intervals of time. Validation of theoretical results has been done with experimental results taking fabric knitted from polyester yarns. Three different levels of tightness and three different shape factors of filament have been taken in the experimental study and the significance of their effect has been evaluated using ANOVA. A good correlation has been found between theoretical and experimental results.     

Mathematical model to predict vertical wicking behaviour. Part II: flow through woven fabric

The aim of the paper is to develop a mathematical model to predict vertical wicking behaviour of woven fabric. The first part of this series (Part I) has dealt with the mathematical model for predicting vertical wicking through yarn. In this part a model has been proposed to predict vertical wicking of the woven fabric, based on the developed yarn model. In order to model the flow through woven fabric along with the vertical flow through liquid carrying threads, the horizontal flow through transverse threads has also been taken into account. A simplified fabric geometrical concept (inclined tube geometry) and Peirce geometry for plain woven fabric have been used to define the fabric structure. Warp and weft linear density, fabric sett and yarn crimp have been considered in the fabric modelling. The theoretical wicking values of the yarn and fabric made from that yarn have been compared. Experimental verification of the model has been carried out using polyester and polypropylene fabrics. The model is found to predict the wicking height with time through the yarns and fabrics with reasonable accuracy.     

棉氨弹性添纱针织物的动态弹性性能

研究了热定型和热收缩温度对棉氨添纱针织物的动态弹性性能的影响.为了避免在研究动态弹性回复(DER)中产生的直接作用,利用动态弹性回复系数(DERR)分析在线圈横列和线圈纵行上的综合的直接动态弹性回复(DER)值.热定型温度会影响织物的DER值,但是热收缩温度却不会对其有影响.所以,对于不同组织的针织物,有必要优化其热定...     

Effect of Pique and Honeycomb Structures on Moisture Management Properties of Eri Silk Knitted Fabrics

ABSTRACT

The present study aims to investigate the moisture management and wicking properties of eri knitted fabrics. In this study, two different knit structures, namely, single pique and honeycomb fabric, were developed with the combinations of two different tightness values of slack and tight by using 2/80s Nm and 2/140s Nm eri silk yarns. The developed fabrics were analyzed for vertical wicking, moisture management properties such as wetting time, spreading speed, absorption rate, maximum wetting radius, accumulative one-way transport index (AOTI), and overall moisture management capacity (OMMC). Variables such as yarn linear density, tightness, and knitting structure have a significant influence on the wicking and moisture management properties. The overall OMMC indices of eri silk knitted fabric lie in the ‘very good’ to ‘excellent’ category, indicating the suitability of eri silk yarn for skin fit as well as active wear applications.     

弹性针织物服装压力的测试研究

文章对弹性针织物进行了拉伸试验,分析针织物拉伸性能与织物原料及组织结构的关系;在此基础上,用圆柱模拟人的四肢和腰,采用自行研制的服装压力测试系统对所选择针织物对人体压力进行测试,进而分析服装压力与弹性针织物的抗拉刚度及织物伸长率之间的关系。     

PTT针织面料的开发与研究

对新开发的PTT弹力添纱针织面料的原料选用、编织和后整理进行了详细探讨,并对该面料的5个湿舒适性指标透湿率、导湿性、透气率、干燥率和保水率与已开发的棉/涤针织面料和Tactel/Lycra针织面料进行了比较,证明新开发的面料具有良好的湿舒适性,是制作运动服的理想面料。     

Development of mathematical model to predict vertical wicking behaviour. Part I: flow through yarn

Theoretical models have been proposed in this article (Parts I and II) to predict the vertical wicking behaviour of yarns and fabrics based on different fibre, yarn and fabric parameters. The first part of this article deals with the modelling of flow through yarn during vertical wicking, whereas the second part deals with the modelling of vertical wicking through the fabric. The yarn model has been developed based on the Laplace equation and the Hagen–Poiseuille’s equation on fluid flow; pore geometry has been determined as per the yarn structure. Factors such as fibre contact angle, number of filaments in a yarn, fibre denier, fibre cross‐sectional shape, yarn denier and twist level in the yarn have been taken into account for development of the model. Lambertw, a mathematical function, has been incorporated, which helps to predict vertical wicking height at any given time, considering the gravitational effects. Experimental verification of the model has been carried out using polyester yarns. The model was found to predict the wicking height with time through the yarns with reasonable accuracy. Based on the proposed yarn model, a mathematical model has been developed to predict the vertical wicking through plain woven fabric in the second part of this article.     

PLA/棉导湿干爽针织面料的开发

以PLA长丝和棉纱为原料,通过合理的组织结构设计,试制出了棉盖PLA双层复合针织面料,并通过染色及亲水性整理,使其获得了吸湿快干功能.相关测试与分析表明,该面料具有良好导湿干爽性能.     

汗湿条件下织物动态水传递的测试与分析

为了分析织物动态水传递性能,自行搭建一种具有芯吸导水功能的显性出汗模拟装置,拍照记录不同时刻织物的润湿图像,利用电子天平在线测量系统实时记录织物在吸水或蒸发过程中重量值的动态变化。利用该装置对6种面料分别进行了单层织物平面内水传递性能和2层织物层间水传递性能的动态测试。结果显示:润湿图像面积、水分在织物平面内的扩散速度、织物的吸水速度可以反映织物动态吸水与扩散性能,织物表面的水分蒸发速度可以评价织物的快干性能;织物层间水传递性能可利用模拟皮肤的水分转移率进行评价。     

珍珠纤维针织物的热湿舒适性

通过透气性、瞬间冷感、透湿性和毛细效应常规对比试验,对珍珠纤维、珍珠纤维P棉、牛奶纤维P羊毛P棉莫代尔、莫代尔P棉、粘胶纤维等11 种针织面料进行了测试,研究了珍珠纤维针织物的热湿舒适性。结果表明,珍珠纤维、珍珠纤维P棉针织物具有良好的湿传递性能,且优于纯粘胶织物,但它们的瞬间冷感差别不大     

Influence of blend ratio and linear density on liquid spreading characteristics of bamboo/cotton-blended yarn knitted fabrics measured by liquid spread tester

In this study, a new liquid spread tester, designed and developed in an earlier work by the authors, has been used for the study and analysis of the transverse wicking characteristics of single jersey-knitted fabric produced from bamboo/cotton-blended yarn. The most significant liquid spreading characteristic, namely the liquid spreading rate, has been measured and analysed for two sets of the knitted fabric composed of bamboo/cotton yarn, one of linear density Ne 20s and the other of Ne 40s yarn. The yarn blend composition was varied in a similar manner for both sets of fabric. It was observed that liquid spreading rate decreased with increase in bamboo content for all the blend proportions investigated. It was also found that this property is higher in the wale-way direction than the course-way direction.     

拒水导湿针织面料的研究

提出了先对纱线进行拒水整理，再对面料进行染色来生产拒水导湿针织面料的新方法。通过系列实验和测试，证明了采用这种方法并结合特别设计的双层针织结构能够实现面料拒水导湿透气的功能。     

碱减量对Coolmax针织物性能的影响

以不同碱浓对Coolmax导湿快干纤维双面针织物进行碱减量处理，探讨了烧碱浓度对Coolmax织物减量率、强力、染色性能、芯吸性能和柔软性的影响。试验表明，Coolmax纤维比表面积大，其针织物的减量率比常规涤纶针织物大得多，处理后芯吸性能变好，柔软度提高，能产生深色效应，但减量率过高会降低纤维的异形度，损伤纤维。     

全聚赛络纺双芯纱及其弹性电磁屏蔽针织物的制备

为开发弹性回复性更强的防辐射针织物,在全聚纺细纱机上采用嵌入式纺纱方法纺制3 种不同线密度的棉/ 不锈钢/ 氨纶双芯纱和3 种对应线密度的棉/ 不锈钢包芯纱,设计织制成1+ 1罗纹组织织物,测试分析纱线的包覆效果和主要性能及织物的弹性回复性、电磁屏蔽等性能。结果表明：6 种纱线包覆效果及成纱性能均良好;相比不锈钢包芯纱线织物,双芯纱织物在弹性回复和屏蔽电磁波方面有很大的优势,达到一般性民用电磁屏蔽织物的要求且能保证人体舒适性,这种新结构纱线在全聚纺设备上生产是可行的;开发弹性电磁屏蔽织物时,不仅要合理选择长丝预牵伸倍数等工艺参数,还要考虑到织物的服用性、耐久性及生产成本。     

Wickability behaviour of single-knit structures

Wicking is the spontaneous flow of a liquid in a porous substrate, driven by capillary force. This flow in aporous medium, caused by capillary action, is governed by the properties of the liquid such as surface tension, viscosity and density as well as the surface-wetting forces and geometric configuration of the pore structure such as yarn construction, number of fibres in the cross section, the randomness of the internal structure, twist and the fabric structure. In this study of wickability, the most widely used structures such as single jersey, single pique, double pique and honeycomb with two structural-cell stitch lengths have been considered. Wickability increases with structural-cell stitch length. Among the different structures of fabrics, single jersey with higher structural-cell stitch length shows better performance of wickability and absorption of water when drop is placed on the fabric. The wickability of knitted fabrics was also evaluated in different directions such as wale, course, and bias direction. Among these, wale-wise specimen shows better wicking behaviour. The effect of different liquids like distilled water, artificial sweat solution, tap water, hot water and so on was also tested. The distilled water shows good wicking behaviour as compared with other liquids.     

水分沿针织物纵横向传递速度的研究

采用同一种棉纱织成6种同组织不同结构的针织物,运用水平芯吸的实验方法,分别测试水分沿针织物纵横向的芯吸速率,发现芯吸高度h与时间t可以很好地用h=atb表示.通过线性回归得出织物结构参数--纵密、横密、织物厚度对芯吸速率的影响,结果表明针织物的芯吸不能简单地用毛细上升的规律来描述.在织物结构参数影响中织物厚度的影响最大,织物越厚,芯吸速率越小;织物纵密、横密越小,芯吸也加快.此外,也对针织物的芯吸规律进行了一些探讨.     

高导湿针织松紧带的芯吸高度模型研究

以十字截面涤纶低弹丝、竹炭涤纶丝和乳胶丝交织,且经亲水剂整理的高导湿针织松紧带为研究对象,建立松紧带的芯吸高度模型,通过计算得到松紧带的芯吸高度计算式,可用于计算和预测此类高导湿松紧带的芯吸高度和导湿性。     

羊毛与37.5涤纶混纺针织物的热湿舒适性研究

选择8种不同的羊毛与普通涤纶、37.5涤纶混纺针织物试样,测试试样的密度、面密度、未充满系数和厚度等基本参数,以及回潮率、透气率、芯吸高度、瞬间接触凉感(Q-max)及恒定加热条件下的干、湿态升温性能等织物的热湿舒适性能,分析和评价了针织物的基本参数对其热湿舒适性能的影响。试验结果显示,与普通涤纶相比,采用37.5涤纶有助于提高织物的回潮率、芯吸高度和Q-max;透气率随针织物未充满系数的增大而增大;当织物的纤维组成成分基本一致,组织结构相同时,针织物的面密度越大,透气性越差;含37.5涤纶的纬平针织物的瞬间接触凉感性能较好。     

拼接对针织物拉伸性能和服装压力的影响

为了分析拼接工艺对针织物服用性能的影响,通过对15种锦纶/氨纶弹性针织物分别进行10%、20%、30%、40%、50%、60%拉伸率下的拉伸力值测试。从15种织物中优选3种进行拼接组合,并测试其拉伸性能,建立了单种针织物拉伸力值和拼接针织物拉伸力值的回归方程;测试了不同拉伸率下单种针织物试样和拼接针织物试样的服装压力,并建立了拉伸力值、拉伸率和服装压力的回归方程,总结了织物拉伸力值与服装压力的相互关系,能够辅助预测弹性针织物拼接后的拉伸力,为针织服装压力的相关研究提供参考和指导。研究结果表明:弹性针织物纵向与横向的拉伸率呈高度正相关。拼接针织物试样拉伸力与单种针织物试样拉伸力间存在显著相关性,且拼接针织物拉伸力受2种织物中拉伸力较大织物的影响大。通过拉伸率、拉伸力及服装压力的回归方程能够较好的预测服装压力。