纬编牛仔面料的设计及其弹性回复性

为研究纬编针织牛仔面料的保型性和尺寸稳定性,以靛蓝纱、本白棉纱、涤纶、氨纶为原料,采用成圈＋ 浮线、集圈＋ 浮线的复合组织设计了斜纹和鱼鳞结构的2类共11款弹力纬编牛仔面料作为裤料。对11款纬编牛仔面料的弹性回复性进行了测试,结果表明纬编牛仔面料的纵向弹性回复性均优于横向,适合横裁;织物纵向即腿围方向弹性回复性好,拉伸弹性实验测试中,横向即裤长方向因浮线的存在需施加较大的定伸长力,说明横向的延伸性及弹性较小;组织结构和浮线长度对横向弹性回复性影响较大,织物纵向的弹性回复性受氨纶线密度、比例和线长影响。当组织均为六路斜纹时,非弹性纱线密度大,单次拉伸弹性回复率与纵密成反比,但3次拉伸后弹性回复率下降明显,表明非弹性纱线密度越大,纬编牛仔的纵向多次拉伸弹性回复率越差。     

采用织物上拆解的纬纱评价无梭织造的性能

研究了不同工厂的高中低支纬纱的性能。研究了原纱和织物上拆解下来的高中低支纬纱的诸如断裂强力、强度、伸长和断裂功等性能。研究表明原纱的强度与纬纱的断裂有很大关系。原纱的强度随着纱支的增加而增加,断裂强力、伸长和断裂功随着纱支的增加而降低,而对于拆解纬纱特性和纬纱断头之间未发现这种趋势。     

疏密纬织物各纬卷取量的确定

为织造出分区段设定纬密变化的疏密纬织物,根据织物的纬密变化特点,把织物纬密函数的定义域分成连续区间和离散区间;在此基础上,对于分段连续且可能存在间断点的连续区间,建立了卷取量方程;分析并确定了织物各纬卷取量的解区间,给出了卷取量的求解方法——以解区间足够小为解判据的二分法,并阐明了求解方法在间断点处的有效性;对于由离散点构成的离散区间,给出了区间端点卷取量的取值方法和区间中各纬卷取量的确定方法。按上述方法确定各纬卷取量,能保证所织造的织物具有预期的纬密变化方式。     

疏密纬织物的纬密变化方式及输入方法

针对纬纱疏密分布的机织物———疏密纬织物提出了一种织物纬密变化方式的分区段输入方法。该方法首先引入具有简单、确定且可预定义的纬密变化规律的简单纬密变化区段的概念,通过把织物的1个纬密变化单元分解成若干个简单纬密变化区段,解决了织物纬密变化方式的输入问题。根据上述方法编制了将织物的预期纬密变化方式输入织机控制系统的程序,预定义了若干种常用的纬密变化规律,给出了各变化规律的表达式;构建了1个布片长度范围内随布长变化的纬密函数,拟定了根据纬密函数确定各纬卷取量的计算方法。     

靛蓝色双竹节纬弹牛仔布的深度仿样

为有效提高对客户来样牛仔布的仿制效果,更好地满足消费者对牛仔布服装在外观与质地两方面的个性化需求,基于牛仔布达到深度仿样效果的构成要素,在技术分析与实践基础上,明确了色相、竹节结构、弹性与手感4个方面是对靛蓝色双竹节纬弹牛仔布进行深度仿样的关键,提出了深度仿牛仔布的生产技术目标、技术基础与关键性技术因素,为牛仔布的仿制实践提供参考。     

Analysis of mechanical and dimensional properties of the denim fabrics produced with double-core and core-spun weft yarns with different weft densities

Elastic structures are preferred for improving the elasticity and recovery properties of denim fabrics. With the intention of improving comfort during body movements in denim jeans, 10–35% elasticity is required. In this study, the effect of the composition of double-core (dual-core) and core-spun weft yarns and weft density on the mechanical properties of denim fabrics was investigated. For this purpose, different core materials were used in the production of elastic yarns. The sheath material was cotton for all yarn types. Yarn samples were spun with the same yarn count and twist coefficient. 100% cotton Ne 8/1 Ring slub warp yarns were used as warp yarn while double-core and core-spun yarns were used as weft yarns in weaving. The weaving process was performed with three different weft density values (16, 22, and 28 weft /cm) and the other production parameters were kept constant. Twill 3/1 woven fabrics were treated according to standard denim finishing procedures. After domestic washing processes, mechanical properties of the samples were tested and statistically evaluated.     

浅谈牛仔织物的来样分析

从实际生产的角度介绍了牛仔织物来样的经纬纱细度及原料的分析过程,并结合来样分析的其他必要因素,经过计算制定出织造工艺参数。     

The effect of recycled fibers on the washing performance of denim fabrics

In this study, denim fabrics were produced with yarns obtained from cotton fibers (CO), recycled cotton fibers obtained from yarn wastes (r-CO), and fibers produced from recycled PET bottles (r-PET). Enzyme and stone washing processes were applied systematically on these fabrics. Mass per unit area, breaking force, elongation at max force, tear strength, air permeability, and circular bending rigidity of fabrics were measured. The findings showed that r-CO fiber has negative effect on tear and breaking force. Breaking force, elongation at max force, and tear strength values of the fabrics increased depending on the increase in r-PET content. However, fabric handle was negatively affected associated with the r-PET ratio due to the increase in stiffness. Mass per unit area, breaking force, air permeability, and circular bending rigidity values of fabrics decreased after the washing processes. The effect of fibers on enzyme- or stone-washed fabrics showed a change according to finished fabrics. It can be said that fabrics containing r-PET are more resistant than cotton and recycled cotton in various aggressive denim washing methods such as bleaching or different washing process conditions such as rising temperature, and time.     

可加热纬编针织物的电热性能

为开发可加热纬编针织服装,采用衬纬方式将导电丝织入针织物中,并对其电热性能进行测试和分析。分别将单根、2根、3根镀银长丝和单根不锈钢长丝衬入到针织物中,测试导电纱线的最大负载电流、织物的热稳定性、织物的电热升温特性和表面温度的均匀性。结果显示:不锈钢长丝的最大负载电流最大,其次是3根镀银长丝的;通电后,衬入镀银长丝织物的电阻变化率较小;衬入3根镀银长丝的织物通电后温度升高的速度较快,且达到稳定工作的温度较高;测试范围内,织物的稳定温升与输入电压成正比;织物表面温度均匀性较好。认为可选择衬入3根镀银长丝的纬编织物制作可加热针织服装。     

粗斜纹及竹节效果织物纬斜的成因及对策

从印染整纬装置的原理出发,分析了整纬装置对纬向有竹节效果的纱线及粗斜纹织物产生探测盲区的特征,论述了对于该类织物防止纬斜病疵应采取的对策,包括印染厂的缝头作业必须进行手工撕头缝头,两布头应平行对齐,预定形和成品定形时应关闭整纬装置,定形布速不宜过快,以不影响操作工把边的质量。     

纬编针织物耗纱量预测研究进展

针对纬编针织物在生产过程中耗纱量预测的问题,在研究单面和双面纬编针织物编织规律的基础上,选择面积法与累计线圈法预测织物生产中的耗纱量。探讨面积法与累计线圈法预测纬编针织物耗纱量的具体方式,并详细介绍了影响2种预测方法的主要影响因素--织物单位面积质量及基本组织线圈长度的计算方法,分析了2种方法的优点、不足及应用前景等,为进一步研究纬编针织物耗纱量预测提供理论基础,也为相关企业生产经营提供参考。     

纬编针织增强复合材料的拉伸性能

在电脑横机上用玻璃纤维编织4种不同结构的针织物,作为纬编针织增强复合材料的增强体。采用VARTM工艺复合加工,对这4种纬编针织增强复合材料的纵、横向拉伸性能进行测试,并对拉伸应力与应变特征曲线进行分析;阐述集圈、浮线对纬编针织增强复合材料拉伸性能的影响。结果表明:取向度和拉伸方向上受力纱线根数是影响这4种结构增强复合材料拉伸性能的主要因素;复合材料的破坏形式说明玻璃纤维针织物增强体与树脂结合良好,有潜在的应用价值。     

PTT纬编麂皮绒织物的开发及性能研究

PTT纤维作为一种新型原料被应用到纬编麂皮绒织物开发中，文章还对其部分性能进行研究，显示了PTT织物的优异拉伸性能和弹性。     

洗水对含木棉纤维牛仔面料性能的影响

采用普洗、氧漂、氯漂、锰漂和酵素漂等方法对含木棉牛仔面料进行处理,探讨不同洗水方法对含木棉牛仔面料的K/S值、透气性、断裂强力和断裂伸长率的影响。结果表明,除锰漂、氧漂外,其它三种洗水方法的褪色效果不明显;经过氧漂、锰漂洗水后的牛仔面料,透气率增加14%以上,酵素漂的透气率下降超过14%,而氯漂和普洗的透气率基本不变;氧漂、氯漂处理面料的经纬向断裂强力增加,而锰漂、酵素漂的减小,普洗经向减小,纬向变化不大。     

细特高密双纬织物的上浆实践

为提高细特高密双纬织物的浆纱质量,使细特纱满足在ZAX-N340型织机上高速织造的要求,对浆料配方和浆纱工艺进行了探索和实践.从原纱质量、设备状态、工艺参数、操作方法等人手,制定了一系列工艺措施及质量控制指标,达到了被覆为主、兼顾渗透的目的,织机效率达到85%.     

咖啡炭纤维纬编面料的开发及其性能

咖啡炭纤维是一类兼具抗菌、保暖、导湿等优质性能的新型功能性纤维,可以根据不同性能要求变换组织设计不同用途的纬编面料。为探究咖啡炭纤维纬编面料的各项性能,利用振荡烧瓶、平板保温仪测试、透气仪测试等方法,对面料的抗菌性、保暖性、透气性等进行测试,并且与锦纶织物进行对比。测试结果表明,咖啡炭纤维的内部微孔效应使得其纬编面料具有较好的抗菌性、保暖性及导湿性能,此外还具有很好的透气性,为日后咖啡炭纤维纬编面料的生产提供参考依据。     

Prediction of warp and weft yarn crimp in cotton woven fabrics

The aim of this study was to develop statistical models for the prediction of warp and weft crimp percentage of cotton woven fabrics. The developed models are based on the empirical data obtained from carefully developed 60 fabric samples with different yarn linear densities, fabric densities, and weave designs. The predictability and accuracy of the developed models was assessed by correlation analysis of the predicted and actual crimp values of another set of eight fabric samples which was not used for the development of models. The results show fairly good capability and accuracy of the prediction models.     

Influence of weft yarn diameter on runoff erosion control performance of woven geomesh

The performance of geomeshes used in runoff erosion control application is expected to improve as weft yarn diameter increases. In this study coir and jute geomeshes with different weft yarn diameter are subjected to runoff erosion tests in zero infiltration and soil infiltration conditions (i.e. without and with soil), at three different slope angles of 15°, 30º and 45°. Germination test is performed according to ASTM standard D 7322, using earthen pots and wheat seeds. Increased weft yarn diameter results in improved performance of coir and jute geomeshes at all slope angles and soil-infiltration conditions, due to increased storage volume, except coir geomesh at steeper slope angles. In germination test, increase in weft yarn diameter results in improved average number of roots; but, the percentage of vegetation and average length of roots are found to reduce.     

新型纬编三维间隔织物衬经衬纬结构的设计

文章提出了一种新型的作为纬编三维间隔增强体结构的设计和织造形成方法,并在横机上试编织。     

小筒径针织纬编添纱织物的垫纱角度分析

在添纱编织工艺理论基础上,设计并应用一种新型的三向可调导纱器,从而使单面纬编添纱织物的外观得到较大改观。