Investigation on permeability and moisture management properties of different denim fabrics after repeated laundering

The physiological comfort determined by air permeability and moisture management properties of fabrics is influenced by various constructional parameters of the fabric which give woven fabric a porous structure. Evaporation of sweat during wear has the potential to cool the body besides restricting the additional weight of sweat being absorbed by the fabric. In this study, comfort characteristics of denim fabrics with different weft yarn of cotton, polyester and core spun Lycra have been discussed. Effect of enzyme washing and repeated laundering on air permeability, moisture management and drying rate has also been discussed. It was observed that air permeability and water vapour permeability of unwashed denim fabrics with cotton weft yarn are significantly higher than the fabric with polyester and Lycra cotton weft yarns. The wetting time is higher for cotton and Lycra cotton yarn fabrics. One-way transport index is highest for Lycra cotton weft fabrics and lowest for fabrics with polyester weft. Fabrics with polyester weft yarns show highest spreading rate, spreading radius and drying rate due to better wicking and hydrophobic nature of polyester fibres.     

Investigation of the fastness properties and color values of cotton fabrics knitted from ring spun and Sirospun® yarns

Sirospun yarn production is a new approach to produce two‐folded and twisted yarns. This method integrates the spinning and folding action in a single step. Therefore, it may have some important advantages such as simplicity of the process, lower production costs, lower investment, space saving, etc. The purpose of the study is to compare the color fastness and colorimetric properties of sirospun yarn, single and two‐folded ring spun yarns produced by same cotton fiber blend. Therefore, three reactive dyes were applied at 1% omf (on mass of fabric) depth of shade to the single jersey fabrics which are produced by sirospun yarn, single and two‐folded ring spun yarns at three different counts. The examination of color coordinates of undyed and dyed samples on CIELAB color space shows that undyed sirospun fabrics show slightly higher whiteness than both undyed single and two‐folded ring fabrics for all three yarn counts. Also, the color strength values of the samples are determined as slightly different for all three dyes. The experimental studies show that sirospun yarns have no disadvantages with respect to conventional folded and twisted yarns when their fastness properties were compared.     

浅谈纯棉色织段染竹节布的生产工艺

探讨了经纱采用色纱和段染纱搭配使用，纬纱采用竹节纱，经交织而成的纯棉色织段染竹节布的工艺流程、色纱染色工艺处方及其工艺条件，并介绍了加工过程中的主要工艺参数和质量指标。     

Elastic Recovery and Performance of Denim Fabric Prepared by Cotton/Lycra Core Spun Yarns

ABSTRACT

Elastic performance coefficient (EPC) and recovery behavior of denim fabrics prepared with cotton/lycra core spun stretch yarns have been presented in this article. The denim fabrics are woven as broken twill weaves in an air-jet weaving machine by the insertion of core spun yarns (lycra filament in core, cotton fiber on sheath) as weft and using 100% cotton yarns as warp. The effect of linear density and stretch percentage of the core spun weft yarns on tensile and recovery behavior of denim fabric have been investigated by employing full factorial design of experiments. It has been observed that the tensile strength and EPC of fabric increase with decrease in linear density and stretch percentage of the core spun stretch yarn. The immediate elastic recovery and delayed elastic recovery increase with decrease in linear density and stretch percentage of the yarns.     

竹/锦纶(凉感)交织面料的染色工艺

开发了竹/凉感锦纶长丝交织面料。竹纤维纺纱主要采用赛络紧密纺工艺,织布采用与凉感锦纶交织的方式。面料的前处理使用卷装,可采用卷装或连续平幅设备进行染色。锦纶可以使用酸性染料、中性染料、活性染料以及还原染料进行染色,采用的染料不同,竹/凉感锦纶染色方式和指标不同。对不同染色方式和不同染料进行实验,优选适合华纺股份有限公司设备的工艺流程及参数。     

Effect of weft density and percentage of stainless steel fiber content of weft yarn on electrical properties of woven fabric strain sensors

Textile-based strain sensors have been used in smart textiles frequently. In this study, effect of percentage of stainless steel fiber of spun yarn (i.e. 28 and 40%) and weft density (i.e. 14, 18, and 22 per cm) of conductive yarn on performance and sensitivity of woven fabrics strain sensor under tensile cyclic loading in 3 mm elongation and also behavior of woven fabric strain sensors under simple tensile loading, was studied. Our finding showed the interaction between weft density and percentage of conductive fiber of spun yarns on performance and sensitivity of strain sensors under cyclic loading. Samples prepared by conductive yarns with 40% stainless steel fiber showed no clear cyclic variation in 18 and 22 weft per cm. This trend for samples woven with conductive yarn with 28% stainless steel fiber was only observed in 22 weft per cm. All samples showed the same trend of resistance variation during simple tensile loading, although the level of resistance variation was different. The slope of resistance variation during tensile cyclic loading confirmed plastic deformation of samples. Finally, by comparing the sensitivity of strain sensors during cyclic loading no obvious advantage was obtained for samples woven with conductive yarn with 40% stainless steel fiber compared with samples woven with conductive yarn with 28% stainless steel fiber.     

汉麻多纤维混纺或交织色织面料的开发

在开发多纤维与汉麻混纺或交织色织面料过程中,对染色、浆纱、织造、后整理等关键工序的工艺参数进行了优化。通过合理制定工艺参数,并在生产过程中严格控制落实上机工艺,使染色白度、色牢度、质量损失率、强力损耗、浆纱增强率、减伸率、上浆率、毛羽增强率、织造引纬率、后整理烧毛等级、丝光效果及液氨免烫整理前后强力、幅宽、缩率等标准得到严格控制,检验结果表明,织物内在与外在质量均达到亚麻棉色织布标准要求。     

Study of wicking behavior of water on woven fabric using magnetic induction technique

An apparatus for measuring the wicking rise of water in fabrics has been developed and several types of fabrics were examined. The method is based on the electromagnetic field induction due to wicking penetration of water into capillary spaces of fabric samples. The measuring system is coupled with a personal computer, and the distance of water rise as a function of time is determined. Plain woven fabric samples with different weft yarn counts, density, and type of fiber in blend yarn were examined. The results obtained by wicking measurement were compared with water vapor permeability index data and the test method for wettability of textile fabrics on the same samples. The average wicking rise of water decreases with the increase of weft yarn density. The wicking of water along the cotton–polyester blend weft yarn is higher than 100% cotton weft yarn samples. The relation of water vapor permeability (WVP) index and the test method for wettability of the same fabric samples show the same behavior as the wicking rise. The equivalent geometric factor neglecting the Earth’s gravitational field is calculated by the average slope L ²/t from the experimental data of wicking of water into the samples. The radii of open channels in the woven fabric sample tends to decrease as a result of increasing weft yarn density.     

Determinants of electrical resistance change of in situ PPy-polymerized stretch plain woven fabric under uniaxial tensile strain

Although the conductive stretchable woven fabric has been widely used as the sensitive material of strain sensors monitoring human motion, it is lack of a deep understanding of the determinants of its electrical resistance change under uniaxial tensile strain. This study chose two kinds of typical stretchable plain woven fabric, i.e. cotton/spandex core-spun yarn fabric and polyester/spandex filament yarn fabric, and they were coated by in situ polymerization of polypyrrole. Their electromechanical responses under certain uniaxial tensile loadings were measured and compared. Meanwhile, by a multi-architecture analysis, i.e. the intrinsic resistance of yarns, the contact resistance of interlacing yarns and the contact resistance of adjacent yarns in parallel, several hypotheses were proposed and tested to determine the determinants of electrical resistance change under tensile strains. The results showed that the resistance change in woven fabric with in situ polymerization of polypyrrole mainly depends on the contact resistance of the adjacent conductive yarns in tensile direction, and the electromechanical responses of the cotton/spandex core spun yarn are significantly different from those of the polyester/spandex filament yarn. It was concluded that the conductive yarn density and fabric structure are critical parameters of woven fabric as resistive strain sensor.     

Effect of structural parameters of porous yarns and fabric on air permeability and moisture transfer of double-face woven fabrics

In this study, effect of fabric structural parameters of double-face woven fabrics including kind of porous yarn namely micro-porous yarn and hollow yarn, hole size of hollow yarn, percentage of these yarns in double-face woven fabric structure, and finally weft density on air permeability and moisture transfer of woven fabrics was evaluated. These yarns were produced by using water-soluble continuous polyvinyl alcohol filaments as core part for hollow yarns and as doubling yarn in micro-porous yarn. Results revealed the effect of kind of porous yarn, hole size of hollow yarn, and weft density on air permeability and moisture transfer of woven fabrics. The percentage of porous yarns as weft did not show obvious trend. Analysis of variance was used to study the effect of these variables on air permeability and moisture transfer of double-face woven fabrics statistically.     

组织结构对UHMWPE短纤纱织物防刺性能的影响

UHMWPE短纤纱具有优秀的抗切割性与较好的树脂浸润性,非常适用于制作防刺材料。文章试织了12种不同织物规格的试样,进行准静态穿刺实验,探究5种因素(组织、紧度、纱线线密度、经纬密和面密度)对织物防刺性能的影响,并比较不同穿刺角度下织物防刺性能的差异。结果表明:与方平织物与接结双层织物相比,平纹织物的防刺性能最好;同种经纬密或同紧度下,粗特纱织制的平纹织物防刺性能好;随着经密增加,紧度增加,面密度增加,防刺性能逐渐增加,但织物过于紧密时,防刺性能反而降低;平纹织物的穿刺性能具有各向异性,经纬向的防刺性能优于45°方向。     

不锈钢纤维/涤纶特种花式线及其电磁波屏蔽织物的开发

以不锈钢长丝和有色涤纶丝等为芯纱原料,纯棉纱线及彩色涤纶丝为饰纱原料,在HKV151B型花式捻线机上纺制出具有电磁波屏蔽特殊功能的23种花色的花式线;用SL7900剑杆小样织机进行小样试织,设计织制了10个规格系列的电磁波屏蔽功能织物小样。电磁屏蔽性能和常规性能测试的结果显示,花式线织物具有突出的抗电磁屏蔽性能,并可满足常规家用休闲防护服面料的基本服用性能和外观风格要求。     

棉织锦3 种色彩组织模型设计与应用

 为了使棉织锦能够体现传统Gobelin壁挂的艺术风格,简化棉织锦的组织设计和意匠的编辑过程,根据丝绸织锦的色彩与织物组织结构关系的相关文献和棉织锦的风格特征,基于空间混色原理和数码技术,将多种棉织锦纹样的各种色彩通过分解归纳,使其中的各种颜色经过有限的经纬色纱与相应的织物组织组合而成,通过多次的RGB试验和生产实践,设计出与传统丝绸织锦色彩组织模式不同的单色经六色纬、二色经六色纬、六色经三色纬、独特的棉织锦色彩组织设计模型。这样,设计人员可以采用少量的经纬色纱和最基本的几个织物组织,根据需要进行组合,使棉织锦表面图案得到丰富的多色彩过渡及很强的层次感。这几种模型对风格多样的棉织锦开发具有较强适用性。     

Studies on cotton-acrylic bulked yarns produced from different spinning technologies. Part II: fabric characteristics

The present work is concerned with the study of the characteristics of plain woven fabric produced with cotton-acrylic high-bulk yarns from different spinning technologies. The effects of different factors, namely spinning technologies (ring, rotor and DREF-II, i.e. Group A fabrics), position of shrinkable acrylic feed sliver in DREF-II friction spinning system (Group B fabrics) and proportion of shrinkable acrylic core fibre in core-sheath type DREF-III friction spun yarns (Group C fabrics) on various properties of cotton-acrylic blended bulked yarn fabrics have been reported. The influence of these three variables on the mechanical, handle and comfort properties of fabrics have been studied. The properties of fabrics made of bulked yarns from different spinning technologies are found to be different from the normal 100% cotton yarn fabrics in all respect. Even though the bulked yarns were used only in weft direction, the fabrics with modified yarn structures show appreciable improvement in thermal resistance, moisture vapour transmission, wicking and air permeability. The bending rigidity of the fabrics in weft direction also reduced with improvement in crease recovery in weft direction.     

Packing of micro-porous yarns. Part II: optimization of fabric characteristics

This paper is concerned with the study of the characteristics of plain woven fabric produced with micro-porous cotton yarns in weft. The micro-porous yarns with varying packing densities and level of pore volumes are produced by changing proportion of PVA fibre content in the blend, yarn twist multiplier (TM) and spindle speed at ring frame. The micro-pores within the structure of the yarn have been created by dissolving the PVA fibres using washing treatment in hot water. A three-variable factorial design technique proposed by Box and Behnken has been used to study the interaction effects of these variables on the characteristics of fabrics. The influence of these three variables on the mechanical, handle and comfort properties of fabrics are studied, the response-surface equations for all the properties have been derived and the design variables are optimized for various fabric properties. Improvements in bending resistance, abrasion resistance and compressional characteristics have been observed with incorporation of micro-pores within the yarn structure. These fabrics with micro-pores have improved thermal resistance and moisture vapour transmission compared to that of 100% cotton fabric.     

聚酯/聚酰胺及其棉混纺织物的染色性能

通过测试聚酯/聚酰胺织物（以下简称改性聚酯）的沸水收缩率,改性聚酯/棉(65/35)混纺织物的最佳前处理条件,改性聚酯织物常压染色和改性聚酯/棉织物分散/活性染料一浴一步法染色的K/S、色牢度,对新型改性聚酯及其棉混纺织物的染色性能进行了研究。实验结果表明：染前热定型后,改性聚酯及其棉混纺织物的经向、纬向收缩率都低于5%;改性聚酯/棉织物的前处理优化工艺条件为：双氧水4g/L、精炼剂3g/L 、NaOH4g/L;改性聚酯织物可以常压染色;改性聚酯/棉分散/活性染料一浴一步碱性染色匀染性良好,染色样品的熨烫、日晒、干摩擦牢度都达到4级及以上。     

酶氧一浴法处理后棉织物染色性能

用退浆酶和纤维素酶的混合酶对棉织物进行酶氧一浴法前处理；分别用x型、K型、KN型和ME型活性染料，及黄蒽酮系、不对称硫靛系和蒽缔蒽酮卤化物系还原染料进行染色，探讨酶氧一浴法前处理工艺对棉织物染色性能的影响，并与传统前处理棉织物的染色性能作比较。由染色后的E／S值可知，经酶氧一浴法工艺处理后织物用活性染料染色，得色量普遍高于传统前处理织物（除KN型）；而还原染料则相反。     

天丝/棉色织衬衫面料的生产工艺研究

从天丝面料的服用性能出发,介绍了天丝/棉色织衬衫面料的设计过程和生产工艺要点,探讨了天丝面料在生产过程中易出现的质量问题,如原纤化、染色色差,以及织造染整中的折痕、擦伤、色斑等,提出了解决这些问题的措施与办法.     

Total porosity,theoretical analysis,and prediction of the air permeability of woven fabrics

Air permeability is one of the most important properties of textile materials that ensure their comfort. For many materials for technical applications (filters, sails, vacuum cleaners, parachutes, etc.), this is one of the main properties that determine their quality. The air permeability of woven textile fabrics depends on many parameters of fabric. Thus, the determination of air permeability of woven fabric is highly complex and difficult. In this study, we attempted to establish a theoretical model for the porosity and predicted the air permeability of woven fabrics. A theoretical model was created to predict the total porosity and the air permeability of a fabric structure depending on the geometrical parameters such as pore size, warp density, weft density, fabric thickness, number of yarn, diameter of yarn, and fiber density. For the purpose, a theoretical model of porous systems on D’Arcy’s law was used, and the validity of the model was confirmed by experimental results using 100% cotton and 97/3 cotton/lycra woven fabrics. Since the amount of air passing through both the pores between yarns and the interstices in the fibers constituting the yarn structure was calculated, theoretical values of air permeability were obtained very close to the experimental values.     

色织毛棉灯芯绒织物的设计

色织毛棉灯芯绒织物采用棉经与毛纬交织，文章对该产品的规格设计、工艺设计及技术要点作了说明，并在服用性能及风格特征上与传统灯芯绒织物进行了比较。