Application of meta-analysis in the field of costume studies北大核心CSCD

With the development of the methodology of research review, meta-analysis has been widely applied in the study of various disciplines.However, through literature collection and combing, it is found that the application of meta¬analysis in the field of domestic costume studies is still blank theoretically.To facilitate the extensive use of meta-analysis in domestic integration research on costume theories, and improve the standardization and objectivity of research on costume theories, through an analysis of the basic meaning, functions, advantages, sample selection and research process of meta¬analysis, 52 domestic research papers published from 2(K)7 to 2019 on the relationship between online consume reviews and consumers' purchase intention were taken as examples, to explore the application process of meta-analysis in the field of costume studies in a systematic way and key points thereof.Finally, through literature survey and an analysis of domestic and foreign applications, it is verified that meta-analysis has a good prospect in theoretical studies on costumes in the future. © 2021 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.     

Influence of condensed spinning method on yarn property北大核心CSCD

In order to explore the effect of condensed spinning method on the yarn properties, the pure cotton yarn with 28. 1, 18. 5 and 14. 7 tex was spun by four kinds of condensed spinning methods based on traditional ring spinning such as four, roller lattice apron compact spinning, compact siro spinning, complete condensed spinning and low torque spinning. The breaking strength, breaking elongation, hairiness and evenness of the pure cotton yarn were tested and analyzed, and the reasons for the influence of four kinds of condensed spinning methods on yarn performance were explored. The experimental results show that the characteristics of the yarn structure by different condensed spinning methods will influence the inner properties of the yarn. The yarn spun with compact siro spinning has the highest strength, the yarn spun with complete condensed spinning has the most beneficial hairiness. The yarn quality of the low torque yarn is better under the effect of the false twister. It has the best evenness, and the yarn spun with compact siro spinning has the lowest total hairiness. © 2018 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.     

Aii analysis of the spinning and performance of new fancy yarn based on Siro spinnin北大核心CSCD

The fancy yarn has become a research hotspot al home and abroad because of its special appearance and rich color changes.In order to enrich the variety of fancy yarns, based on Siro spinning, this paper used rubber-covered back roller with grooves on its surface to spin new Siro fancy yarns and explained the spinning mechanism of new Siro fancy yarns.With the spinning parameters and materials being the same, a test was carried out on a TH 598 J ring throstle, and new Siro fancy yams and ordinary Siro yams were spun separately.The longitudinal structure of the yarns were observed and analyzed, and their linear density, tensile property, evenness and hairiness index were tested and compared.The test results showed that the longitudinal appearance of the yams showed floral changes.There was little difference between ordinary Siro yarns and the new Siro fancy yarns in breaking strength, elongation at break, evenness and hairiness. © 2021 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.     

Research progress of the brassiere-chest contact simulation based on the finite element mechanical model北大核心CSCD

文胸-胸部有限元力学模型可用于分析服装与人体间接触力学问题,有必要探索二者作用机制。文章从文胸-胸部有限元力学模型的构建过程出发,对文胸和胸部的几何模型构建、材料属性设置、网格划分及接触关系的研究进展进行了总结,并归纳出目前该类模型在压力分布预测、塑形效果预测和位移分布预测方面的应用。最后指出,胸部模型构成及材料属性设置不够完善、文胸模型类别单一和压力分布的探讨多集中于乳房区域是目前研究中的不足。     

Numerical calculation of fabric air permeability based on ANSYS CFX北大核心CSCD

In order to rapidly design fabrics whose air permeability meets the actual requirements, and study the changing rules of movement, pressure and pressure intensity of air flow inside the fabric, a method was proposed to numerically calculate the air permeability of fabric by using ANSYS CFX. Firstly, the fabric model was established and processed. Then, the fabrics are numerically calculated under different pressure intensity. The results show that the airflow mainly passed through the gap between the fabric pores and the yarn, and the speed would increases due to the migration acceleration when passing through the pores. There is large shear force and pressure on the yarn surface when passing through the voids. The simulation error obtained by comparing the simulation value with the experimental values was less than 16% , so the model can reflect the actual characteristics of the fabric. The main causes of errors include: Accidental errors of test, model parameter errors, and differences between boundary conditions and test conditions. © 2018 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.     

Study on spinning process and properties of blended silk/luminous polyester yarn北大核心CSCD

Energy storage luminous polyester fiber is a new functional and environmentally friendly material, whose application in the market is becoming wider and wider. In order to further improve the performance of luminous polyester fiber and broaden its market applicability, luminous polyester staple fiber is blended with silk staple fiber in this study. By giving full play to the advantages of silk fiber, we enhance the afterglow strength and mechanical properties of luminous polyester, and improve the appearance effect of luminous polyester staple yarn. The silk is blended with luminous staple fiber, according to different addition ratios, and then spun into blended yarn through the processes of blowing,carding, intermediate drawing, roving, and spinning. After an analysis of the process and properties of blended silk and luminous polyester yarn, the results indicate that when the content of silk staple fiber in the blended yarn is less than 8% , the luminous intensity, mechanical properties and evenness of the luminous staple fiber yarn are improved. © 2021 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.     

Research on the structure of plaid clothing placket in modern central plains北大核心CSCD

In order to further study the design and making principles of the plaid clothing placket in the Central Plains in the modern China, the structural features of the placket with a large lapel shape were summarized through the observation, measurement, data analysis and structural restoration of the clothing collected in the Clothing Culture Center of Central China Institute of Technology. The research shows that the placket is a comprehensive design which integrates functions, decoration and structure. The three structure design methods ( separate cutting of plaid, continuous cutting of the placket and the left body, and continuous cutting of the front and rear pieces) are the main reasons for generating "looking for the sleeves" shape and "no sleeve" shape, wide sleeves, the main reason narrow sleeves. Besides, they are also the main factors causing under fly joint and inconsistent width. Therefore, this study is of great significance to the enrichment and perfection of the traditional Chinese clothing culture system and to the design and production of contemporary Chinese clothing. © 2018 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.     

Study of characters on Jiaxie fabrics in the tang and song dynasties北大核心CSCD

In this paper, the methods of historical literature and textile archaeology were applied to research character and pattern features on Jiaxie fabrics in the Tang and Song dynasties. By using the Jiaxie fabric with the design of namo Shakyamuni Buddha as the research sample, this paper analyses the relations between the characteristics of characters on Jiaxie fabrics in the Tang and Song dynasties and Jiaxie technology based on the view of technology and culture. Firstly, the Jiaxie fabric with the design of namo Shakyamuni Buddha was proved to be Jiaxie fabric after a comparative analysis of xylography, screen printing method and clamp-resistance technology. Secondly, this paper proposed a hypothesis that left and right characters on the Jiaxie fabric with the design of namo Shakyamuni Buddha could be achieved by using half-plate method with multi-pieces. Lastly, the two main reasons why characters on Jiaxie fabrics in the Tang and Song dynasties were rare were analyzed: 1) the purpose of Jiaxie fabrics restricted its development on characters; 2) technical features of folding dyeing limited the development of character design on Jiaxie fabric in the Tang and Song dynasties. © 2017 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.     

An analysis on the evolution of the Sihe Ruyi cloud pattern in the Ming Dynasty北大核心CSCD

作为明代特色典型纹样之一,四合如意云纹的艺术特征独具时代特色。文章以明代织物、画像中的四合如意云纹为研究对象,基于实物样本图片,结合相关史料,梳理总结其发展脉络,从单元造型、基本组织形式、色彩表现和面料工艺四方面对其进行解析,揭示其形式在明代的发展演变过程。研究表明:四合如意云纹从明代初期到明代晚期单元造型由结构松散、自由简洁逐渐丰满圆润、结构稳定;组织形式由单一严谨逐渐丰富多样;色彩由单调浅淡、贵贱有等逐渐华丽多姿、违礼逾制;面料工艺由用料有等、技法单一逐渐竞相奢侈、精巧别致。     

Research on image segmentation of Miao costume patterns based on the RSKP-UNet model北大核心CSCD

The Miao nationality is the sixth largest ethnic group in China which has a history of thousands of years. It has created a unique material culture and spiritual culture in its development process and the Miao costume is a highly condensed collection of the material and spiritual culture of the Miao nationality. As one of the unique symbols of Miao culture the Miao costume has profound cultural heritage and cultural connotations. The patterns of the Miao costume are particularly eye-catching as they not only symbolize the wisdom of the Miao people in thousands of years of production and life but also symbolize the pursuit of the good spirit of the Miao people. However under the impact of modern pop culture and foreign culture these cultural symbols are gradually disappearing. In order to protect and inherit them the Miao costume pattern segmentation has become the most important work. However the Miao costume pattern segmentation is quite difficult. At present there are few studies on the extraction classification identification and preservation of the features of Miao costume pattern segmentation. With the excellent segmentation performance of the U-Net model and the advantages of easy deployment the paper improves the basic structure of the U-Net model and proposes a Miao costume pattern segmentation algorithm based on the RSKP-UNet Residual Selective-Kernel Parallel U-Net model. The algorithm adds Residual modules in the encoder part of the U-Net model to improve the feature extraction capability of the model and embeds the SKNet modules and ParNet modules in the decoder part to enhance the feature expression capability of the model. The paper uses evaluation metrics to measure the segmentation performance of the model and compares it with four segmentation models based on deep learning. The paper not only combines the current research focus-deep learning and attention mechanism but also introduces the Lovász-hinge loss function to effectively solve the problem of class imbalance in the Miao costume patterns. The RSKP-UNet model is better than other models in various segmentation indicators. Compared with the benchmark model U-Net the Dice coefficient IoU precision recall and accuracy are improved by 6. 98% 11. 07% 2. 89% 6. 75% and 3. 92% . The segmentation algorithm proposed in this paper realizes the extraction of the element content of the Miao costume patterns through image segmentation of Miao costume patterns which can be used to build the Miao costume pattern database in this way thus helping designers relevant researchers and organizations to provide research foundation and completing the protection and inheritance of the Miao costume culture. The paper also provides some reference for the segmentation research of other minority costume patterns. © 2022 Authors. All rights reserved.     

Analysis of purple red color on the traditional Daur embroidered pouch北大核心CSCD

Twenty five pieces of embroidered pouches collected from Molidawa Daur National Museum in Inner Mongolia were analyzed. Among them, eight embroidered pouches which might be dyed with vegetable dyes were chosen. Sixteen purplish red colors were selected for the recovery experiment. The range of L∗, a∗, b∗ and c∗ value of colors were obtained through positioning and comparative study. The feasible dyes were confirmed to be sappanwood and safflower. The dyeing process was as follows: direct dyeing with sappanwood, pre, mordant dyeing, and post, mordant dyeing. The results showed that a variety of purple, red colors were obtained by adjusting the dye concentration, the mordant types and the pH value. One color could be recovered by direct dyeing with sappanwood, while eight colors could be recovered by pre, mordant dyeing. Seven colors could be recovered by safflower dyeing. The color difference to the collected colors was less than four which reached the purpose of recovery research. © 2018 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.     

Objective evaluation of the flatness of popliteal space of pants based on multi-scale convolution北大核心CSCD

III view of the lack of objective evaluation method for actual wearing wrinkle, 35 woven samples were selected and fitted pant samples were drawn and sewn, according to average physique.The wrinkling process of popliteal space of pants in daily activities was simulated, wrinkling images were obtained, subjective evaluation was conducted and image tags were made.SURF was employed to extract image features, images of different grades were combined pairwise for K-means clustering and image labels were corrected.An objective evaluation model on the flatness of popliteal space based on multi- scale convolution was designed, which extracted features from different ranges of wrinkle images that were input using multi- scale convolution, features were fused, and then prediction results of the flatness of wearing were output.The research results indicated that the prediction accuracy of the model was 92.69% , which was better than the classification effect of CNN and BP methods. © 2021 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.     

Identification of the broken-hole on the woollen fabric北大核心

This study is designed to identify the damage of the broken-holes on woollen fabric. We can use optical microscope, SEM and chemical method to identify the cause of the broken-hole. Under the optical microscope, if the damaged fibers appear a lunate gap or prominence on the cross section, it can belong to moth damage, if there are broken filaments on the cross section of damaged fibers, it can be regarded as mechanical damage, if the fibers stick together,it can be attributed to heat damage. Under the SEM, if the cross section is smooth, it is mechanical damage, otherwise it is moth damage. Under the treatment of saturated bromine, the moth damaged fiber bubbles at 92 seconds, while the mechanical damaged fiber bubbles at 37 seconds.     

Virtual simulation system for drawing process experiment based on Unity 3D北大核心CSCD

Virtual reality technology is referred to as VR technology. Virtual simulation experiments are based on VR technology which simulate a real experimental environment in the computer. With the help of necessary simulation hardware and software users can interact and communicate with objects in the virtual environment thereby generating an immersive operating experience. In 2017 the Ministry of Education promulgated the " Notice on the Construction of National Virtual Simulation Experiment Teaching Project" witch clearly pointed out that it is necessary to integrate information technology into the college experimental teaching actively promote the construction of the national virtual simulation experimental teaching project and improve the quality and technical level of experimental teaching. The construction of virtual simulation laboratory can shift the teaching mode from being flat to being three-dimensional and from being professorial to being experiential and students can gain more direct learning experience. At present an undiversified offline teaching model is still adopted in the drawing process experiment which has a certain gap with the new teaching concept of combining information technology and experimental teaching. In order to promote the informationization of the drawing process experiment we design a virtual simulation system of drawing process experiment based on Unity 3D with FA320A type drawing frame as the simulation object. First of all we analyze the actual requirements of the drawing process experiment including being familiar with the role of the drawing frame mechanism and components being familiar with the drive system of the drawing frame and the position and function of the drafting change gear mastering the process flow of drawing production and knowing the relevant knowledge of textile workshop design. Then the overall framework of the system is designed according to the teaching requirements. Three experimental modules are established namely the cognitive module for the drawing frame mechanism the cognitive module for drawing frame drive system and the drawing process experiment module. The three modules are progressive and can guide the students to complete the learning process of the drawing process experiment independently. Based on this modeling software is used to create and optimize models of the drawing frame and workshop followed by virtual scene construction and human-computer interaction design within Unity 3D. On this basis the authors are both the developers and the users of the virtual simulation teaching software so after completing the development of this system this study analyzes the teaching effect of the virtual simulation software based on the experimental data of the students. Through system development and student experimental testing it is found that the system can eliminate safety hazards in experiments and effectively stimulate students motivation for independent learning which increases students experimental opportunities with an average of 2. 46 times. It also helps deepen students understanding of theoretical knowledge improve their performance and shorten experimental time thus enhancing the effectiveness of experimental teaching. The virtual simulation system for drawing process experiment not only meets practical needs by providing students with an experimental platform with realistic simulation effect and rich learning content but is also expandable and adaptable to future developments allowing the developers to conveniently modify and add experimental content at any time and cultivating more high-quality talents with a sense of innovation and creative ability for the society. In addition the system also provides an important reference for the development of virtual experiments of other textile equipment. © 2022 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.     

Study on the structure and properties of modified silk with ultraviolet absorbent北大核心CSCD

The silk fiber has an irreplaceable position in textile fibers and related silk fabrics have the advantages of light and airy texture good moisture absorption and breathability comfort in wear etc. It is also widely used in other fields such as the biomedical sector. However silk also has its own limitations poor light resistance and susceptibility to ultraviolet light especially the ultraviolet light of 290-400 nm wavelength in daylight such as under which condition it is prone to yellowing and photodegradation. The yellowing of silk is due to the photo-oxidation of tyrosine and tryptophan in silk protein under the action of ultraviolet light from sunlight and due to the production of yellow substances which affects the whiteness of silk. In addition from the molecular structure of silk most of the amino acids susceptible to UV light are distributed in the amorphous region. As the amorphous region is affected the structure of the crystalline region is also gradually relaxed the local degradation begins and the silk protein macromolecule chain is cleaved which leads to the decrease of the mechanical properties of silk fibers and accelerates the aging of silk fibers and fabrics. Therefore it is necessary to modify the silk products outside the anti-purple line. The current methods used to modify silk are mostly for post finishing modification including coating impregnation and chemical grafting methods but these methods often affect the original color or feel of the fabric and the durability of the modified effect is also poor. The feeding method is a green method to obtain modified silk by spraying mulberry leaves or artificial feed mixed with modifier which is ingested by silkworm and transferred to silk gland. In this study five aminobenzene UV absorbers were used as exogenous additive food for silkworms. The effect of molecular polarity on the transport of modifiers to silk glands was investigated and their effects on silkworm development and silk structural properties were studied. It was found that the aminobenzene UV absorbers were more easily transferred to the central silk gland silk glue and less to the posterior silk gland (fibroin). 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid was found to be the highest in the posterior silk gland with a content of 3. 27 μg / strip. The cocoon width and cocoon quality of this group were significantly lower than those of the control group and the silk gum content was increased when this group was used as the study object. Compared with the control group the relative content of β-folded structure and crystallinity of the silk in the addition feeding group decreased slightly. The silkworm silk in the feeding group showed a certain UV absorption ability. After 330 h UV irradiation the breaking strength and elongation of the control group decreased by 48. 95% and 43. 52% respectively while those of the feeding group decreased by 42. 03% and 34. 18% respectively. In this paper UV absorbers were added to silkworms to obtain modified silk mainly focusing on the transfer of the modifier to the silk gland and the structural properties of the modified silk only for the most UV absorbers to enter the silk gland of the posterior group of silk. Other properties of the modified silk such as washing resistance have not been studied and some more in-depth studies are required. For instance it needs to be studied in depth for the limited absorption of exogenous additives by silkworms additive food's being not always absorbed by silkworms and transferred to the silk gland and the mechanism of action between the additive food and silk protein after the former's entering the silk gland. © 2022 Authors. All rights reserved.     

Study on the anions and moisturizing function of vitamin e fiber intertexture北大核心CSCD

To explore the impacts of different functional fiber contents, different yarn types and different fabric weaves on the functionality of textiles, this paper takes mulberry silk as the warp yarn and takes vitamin E yarn, combed cotton/'vitamin E fiber/Modal(40/40/20) blended yarn and viscose fiber as weft yarns, to prepare 9 tyj>es of vitamin E yam and viscose yarn with different weft ratios, 5 types of combed cotton/vitamin E fiber/Modal(40/40/20) blended yarns and viscose fiber with different weft ratios, 5 types of vitamin E yarn and viscose fabrics with a weft ratio of 1 • 1 and different weaves, and then tests the anions and moisturizing compound function of three series of fabrics.The results show that the anion production and moisturizing properties of fabric grow with the increase of vitamin E fiber content.Both yarn type and fabric! weave will affect the anion production and moisturizing properties of fabrics. © 2021 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.     

On the name discrimination of Han faction costume北大核心CSCD

As a product of the economic development in 1990s, "Han faction costume" has nothing to do with the theory of science. "Han faction costume" had its name first, but its essence was not seen. The fact has proven that it has become a hindrance to the development of clothing industry in Wuhan. On the contrary, academic circles in Wuhan have been using this concept. Through literature research and field interviews, the origin and development status of "Han faction costume" is expounded in this paper. It is believed that as factional clothing, "Han faction costume" has never existed in theory. It is just an economic geographical concept. If we blindly do conceptual hype and do not carry out the design and integration of regional styles, it is difficult to form the healthy development of clothing industry chain. The concept of "Han faction costume" will only hinder the development of local garment enterprises in Wuhan. So it is suggested that the concept of "Han faction costume" should not be used for the time being. © 2018 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.     

Design and application of jacquard fabric patterns based on the geomorphologie color features北大核心CSCD

为探寻地貌图的色彩规律,并运用在提花织物设计中,本文利用改进的K-means聚类算法进行图像色彩特征提取;同时对地貌图组成因素进行分析,并在此基础之上,比较分析同种地貌图色彩特征及不同种地貌图色彩特征,总结地貌图色彩搭配规律;最后将仿地貌色彩与提花织物设计相结合,研究并制定了不同类型地貌色彩特征的设计方案。本文侧重点不仅在色彩提取方面提供参考,还涉及将色彩仿生设计巧妙地融于设计中,赋予传统提花纹样设计更高的美学价值及美的感观。     

Discussion on the determination of sail residue in silk fibroin solution with a water quality testing pen北大核心CSCD

the salt residue is one of the quality indexes of silk fibroin products.The products with low salt residue are not only healthier for human body, hut also more stable in exterior qualities, such as color and smell.Instrumental analysis and chemical analysis are currently methods to accurately determine salt residues in silk fibroin products, but they still need to be supplemented by real-time and quick detection methods in practical production.This paper discusses the determination method with a water quality testing pen and investigates the response of the water quality pen to the changes in the concentration of a variety of solutions, and associates with application examples.The results show that the TDS measured by the water quality pen is highly linearly correlated with the changes in the concentrations of CaCU , NaCl, and fibroin-CaCU solutions.The principle and method of the TDS water quality testing pen have an application prospect in the field of real-time and rapid approximate evaluation of salt residue in silk fibroin solution. © 2021 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.     

The transformation of silk trade object and product style in the early stage of the New China北大核心CSCD

Different from the past dynasties, the silk business policy was mainly export sale in the early stage of the New China, silk products were away from the domestic use custom, and export sale silk became the main body of silk design. In 1950s, the Soviet Union and other socialist countries became the trade objects; the product design basically followed the tradition; the style was slightly monotonous and conservative. In 1960s, the trade object suddenly turned to the capitalist countries, and the product design idea changed to cater to one's pleasure. After indirect contact and mastery of international fashion, the designers made new products constantly to meet the needs of the customer's aesthetics and fashion, and the style of capital and social marketing products was distinctive, which was good for sales. The research shows that, the silk trade object in the early stage of the New China largely determined the style of the products. Export sale silk has made a lot of foreign exchange for China, and made a great contribution to the rise of New China. © 2017 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.