Intrinsic and extrinsic factors in skin ageing: a review

As the proportion of the ageing population in industrialized countries continues to increase, the dermatological concerns of the aged grow in medical importance. Intrinsic structural changes occur as a natural consequence of ageing and are genetically determined. The rate of ageing is significantly different among different populations, as well as among different anatomical sites even within a single individual. The intrinsic rate of skin ageing in any individual can also be dramatically influenced by personal and environmental factors, particularly the amount of exposure to ultraviolet light. Photodamage, which considerably accelerates the visible ageing of skin, also greatly increases the risk of cutaneous neoplasms. As the population ages, dermatological focus must shift from ameliorating the cosmetic consequences of skin ageing to decreasing the genuine morbidity associated with problems of the ageing skin. A better understanding of both the intrinsic and extrinsic influences on the ageing of the skin, as well as distinguishing the retractable aspects of cutaneous ageing (primarily hormonal and lifestyle influences) from the irretractable (primarily intrinsic ageing), is crucial to this endeavour.     

An updated review of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin – New perspectives and evaluation for claims support

With the advancement of skin research, today's consumer has increased access to an informed understanding of ageing skin and its appendages, together with a plethora of targeted products to meet such needs. In recent years, increased legislative demands for quality evidential claims support have led not only to the development and validation of clinical methods to measure and quantify ageing skin, but also a clearer understanding of the skin ageing process–especially the impact of both its internal and external environments–as well as a tougher stance on clearly unjustifiable claims. Traditional testing methods used to research and evaluate anti‐ageing products claim to employ sophisticated instruments. Today, however, since the term anti‐ageing can be considered a misnomer, intelligent use of combined more advanced clinical methods has enabled the development of technologically improved consumer products providing enhanced efficacy and targeted performance. Non‐invasive methods for the assessment and quantification of the causes of ageing skin provide tools to the clinical researcher as defined by key clinically observed ageing parameters. Where evidence requires additional support, a number of clinical procedures evaluating ageing skin and hair products are combined with invasive procedures, thus enabling an added value to product claims. As discussed herein, given the enhanced understanding of ageing, we provide an update to our previous reviews of clinical methods used in the assessment of skin ageing, to include the wider aspects of environmental exposure; skin pigmentation; microbiome disturbance; surface topography; colour, radiance, and pH; and structural integrity–all requiring a disciplined approach to their use in dermatological investigations and product claims evidence.     

Caucasian facial L* shifts may communicate anti-ageing efficacy

An ageing study was conducted to capture skin colour parameters in the CIELab system from Caucasians of both genders and all available adult ages. This study produced a linear correlation between L* and age for a Caucasian population between 20 and 59 years of age as follows: (L* value) = -0.13 × (Age in years) + 63.01. Previous studies have addressed age-related changes in skin colour. This work presents a novel consumer correlated quantitative linear model of skin brightness by which to communicate age-related changes. Two product assessment studies are also presented here, demonstrating the ability of anti-ageing products to deliver on objective and subjective improvements in skin brightness. It was determined to be possible to use the fundamental Caucasian L*-age correlation to describe product benefits in a novel quantitative and consumer-relevant fashion, through the depiction of a 'years back' calculation.     

A review of ageing and an examination of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin. Part I: Cellular and molecular perspectives of skin ageing

The ageing process is noticeable within all organs of the body and manifests itself visibly in the skin. Skin ageing is influenced by several factors including genetics, environmental exposure, hormonal changes and metabolic processes. Together these factors lead to cumulative alterations of skin structure, function and appearance. The functioning of the central nervous, immune, endocrine and cardiovascular systems, as well as the skin is also impaired with age. Chronologically, aged skin is thin, relatively flattened, dry and unblemished, with some loss of elasticity and age-related loss of architectural regularity. General atrophy of the extracellular matrix is reflected by a decrease in the number of fibroblasts. Reduced levels of collagen and elastin, with impaired organization are primarily because of decreased protein synthesis affecting types I and III collagen in the dermis, with an increased breakdown of extracellular matrix proteins. Oxidative stress is considered of primary importance in driving the ageing process. The original free radical theory of ageing purported that the molecular basis of ageing was derived from a lifetime accumulation of oxidative damage to cells resulting from excess reactive oxygen species (ROS) produced as a consequence of aerobic metabolism. Although the skin possesses extremely efficient anti-oxidant activities, during ageing, ROS levels rise and anti-oxidant activities decline. The ROS are necessary in multiple MAP kinase pathways and the induction of AP-1, in turn, up-regulates expression of matrix-metalloproteinases providing a plausible mechanism for the increased collagen degradation in aged human skin.     

A review of ageing and an examination of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin. Part 2: Clinical perspectives and clinical methods in the evaluation of ageing skin

With the advancement of skin research, today's consumer has increased access to technological information about ageing skin and hair care products. As a result, there is a rapidly increasing demand for proof of efficacy of these products. Recognizing these demands has led to the development and validation of many clinical methods to measure and quantify ageing skin and the effects of anti-ageing treatments. Many of the current testing methods used to research and evaluate anti-ageing product claim to employ sophisticated instruments alongside more traditional clinical methods. Intelligent use of combined clinical methods has enabled the development of technologically advanced consumer products providing enhanced efficacy and performance. Of non-invasive methods for the assessment and quantification of ageing skin, there is a plethora of tools available to the clinical researcher as defined by key clinically observed ageing parameters: skin roughness and surface texture; fine lines and wrinkles; skin pigmentation; skin colour; firmness and elasticity; hair loss; and proliferative lesions. Furthermore, many clinical procedures for the evaluation of ageing skin treatments are combined with invasive procedures, which enable added-value to claims (such as identification and alteration of biochemical markers), particularly in those cases where perception of product effect needs additional support. As discussed herein, clinical methods used in the assessment of skin ageing are many and require a disciplined approach to their use in such investigations.     

胶原三肽生物活性及其应用研究进展

胶原是自然界含量最丰富的蛋白质,深入挖掘胶原资源和提升其利用价值具有重要意义。胶原三肽(CTPs)是胶原水解后得到的由三个氨基酸组成的小肽,具有多种生物活性和较高的应用价值。本文从胶原三肽的种类和吸收特性、胶原三肽的生物活性、胶原三肽的应用等方面进行了阐述,以期为进一步促进胶原资源高附加值开发和应用推广提供思路。     

Role of proteoglycans on skin ageing: a review

This work analyses the role of proteoglycans on skin ageing, influenced by the presence of glycosylated proteins, which exercise diverse functions on the skin. They are essential components that restore the cells, providing hydration, maintaining hydration of the extracellular matrix, preventing the formation of wrinkles thanks to their ability to combine to other molecules such as collagen or hyaluronic acid and favouring the smoothness of the skin texture. The use of these proteins is a very recent and promising topic, since their application may revolutionize skin ageing therapies. Of the existing proteoglycans, decorin, versican and perlecan are of special note, playing a fundamental role on skin.     

Combined retinol-lactose-glycolic acid effects on photoaged skin: a double-blind placebo-controlled study

The objective of this study was to assess the efficacy of the combination of retinol, lactose and glycolic acid applied topically on photodamaged skin. Forty female volunteers were enrolled in a double-blind, randomized placebo-controlled clinical study. A cream containing retinol, lactose and glycolic acid was applied on one side of the face and a placebo cream on the other side, twice daily for 12 weeks. Skin photoageing signs were assessed clinically, whereas skin microrelief and moisturization were measured instrumentally. Both the clinical assessment and the objective instrumental measurements revealed that the active-treated side was significantly improved at the end of the study compared with baseline and control-treated side. In conclusion, our results demonstrate that topical application of a combination of retinol, lactose and glycolic acid has significantly improved the appearance of photodamaged skin.     

Biologically active peptides: from a laboratory bench curiosity to a functional skin care product

Small, biologically active peptides (short sequences of amino acids) were first described about 40 years ago: TRH, angiotensin, vasopressin, oxytocin, bradykinin. Since then, many more peptides have been isolated from mammalian tissue and organs, and their activity investigated. Essentially, these molecules play a hormonal (messenger) role: released at one point in the body, they act at specific receptor sites at different locations in the organism. Mostly the peptides are transported from the site of release to the site of biological activity through the blood or lymphatic fluid. The use of these molecules in cosmetics does not appear obvious, as the topical application of these highly soluble, fragile and extremely expensive molecules seems inappropriate, and systemic effects (blood transport) are not desired. This paper shows that the obstacles to using highly specific, powerful peptides as 'actives' in cosmetic products can be overcome. Cosmetically interesting activities such as stimulation of collagen synthesis, chemotaxis, anti-stinging effects and others, can be observed and substantiated with chemically modified peptide sequences. Long chain fatty acid conjugates improve skin penetration, specific activity and economic feasibility of these molecules.     

Oral fish cartilage polysaccharides in the treatment of photoageing: biophysical findings

The topically applied cosmetic products can be helpful in improving the aged skin condition. The present study shows how oral fish-cartilage food supplementation can be helpful in improving the treatment of ageing skin. A total of 30 healthy women with signs of skin ageing were studied. Fifteen of the women were treated with a food supplement based on polysaccharides derived from the fish cartilage and a natural mix of antioxidants for 2 months and the other 15 with a placebo. Clinical evaluation and biophysical parameters related to skin function and wrinkle severity, such as silicone replica, skin thickness, mechanical properties, skin colour and capacitance, were measured. The results showed statistically significant changes in the active-treated group in comparison to the placebo. In particular, dermal thickness (treatment: from 1.13 to 1.23 mm; P < 0.001), skin wrinkling (treatment: from 9.5 to 3.5 R(a); P< 0.002), skin colour (treatment: brighter and less pigmented; P < 0.02) and viscoelasticity (treatment: from 0.70 to 0.97%; P < 0.02) showed considerable improvement. Most of these parameters are related to changes occurring within the dermal matrix, which is improved after the treatment, whereas most of the topically applied cosmetic products have a short-term effect on superficial structures. A combination treatment (oral and topical) can be more effective in reducing the signs of skin-ageing.     

Clinical aspects of egg bioactive peptide research: a review

Extensive in vitro and, to a more limited extent, animal research have demonstrated the health potential of a wide set of egg protein hydrolysates; however, well-designed human intervention studies are scarce. Health claim assessment, however, sets high standards for characterisation of the bioactive peptides, investigation of the mode-of-action and convincing human intervention studies. In this review, we discuss the state-of-the-art and knowledge gaps related to egg-derived peptide bioavailability and bioactivity. In addition, we will formulate recommendations for appropriate design of future human intervention trials with egg-derived peptides.     

Recently isolated antidiabetic hydrolysates and peptides from multiple food sources: a review

Abstract

Diabetes, a metabolic syndrome of global importance has been on a progressive rise in recent years. Several pharmacological approaches have been made, which have proved effective, but with underlying side effects. Bioactive hydrolysates (BHs) and peptides (BPs) from food sources, however, have shown the relative advantage of imparting less adverse effects. Furthermore, BHs and BPs from food have been discovered to impart their antidiabetic potentials through one or more mechanisms such as inhibition of digestive enzymes, inhibition of the antigenic enzyme – Dipeptyl peptidase IV (DPP-IV), decrease in blood glucose levels and increase in insulin uptake. Several plants and animal sources have been used as protein sources for the isolation of antidiabetic hydrolysates and peptides through different mechanisms and analytical techniques. This review integrates recent research information about several popular and unconventional food sources of BHs and BPs, their isolation techniques, antidiabetic effects and protein profiles. In addition, the fractionation technique(s) employed in each study and inhibition potentials of BHs and BPs are reviewed. This article is intended to supplement accessible scholarly literature and intellectual awareness on the subject of food-oriented approach for the management of diabetes.     

干腌火腿中肽的形成机理研究进展

干腌火腿加工过程中,在肌肉中内源酶和微生物的共同作用下,产生多种具有特定生物活性或对产品风味具有提升作用的肽。抗氧化肽、降血压肽和抗菌肽等生物活性肽提升火腿的营养价值;呈味肽如鲜味肽、甜味肽、苦味肽、酸味肽、咸味肽及浓厚感肽,有助于形成火腿独特的风味。该文综述了干腌火腿中肽的功能特性,重点对加工过程中肽的影响因素及形成机理进行介绍,为干腌火腿品质特性提升和新工艺设计提供理论参考依据。     

Antihypertensive peptides of animal origin: A review

Many bioactive peptides trigger certain useful antihypertensive activities in the living body system and there is a mounting worldwide interest in the therapeutic potential of these bioactive peptides for exploitation in vivo against the hypertension. Studies suggest the antihypertensive properties for many bioactive peptides of animal origin with underlying mechanisms ranging from inhibition of angiotensin-converting enzyme to additional mechanisms to lower blood pressure such as opioid-like activities and mineral-binding and antithrombotic properties. Antihypertensive peptides are the most extensively studied of all the bioactivities induced by food protein hydrolysates, highlighting their importance in human health and disease prevention and treatment. There exist enormous opportunities for the production of novel peptide-based products in biopharmaceutical manufacturing industries for the treatment, prevention, and mitigation of hypertension. Numerous products have already struck on the global market and many more are in process. This article focuses on antihypertensive peptides identified in the meat, fish, blood, milk, dairy products, and egg and their probable application as novel ingredients in the development of functional food products as dietary treatment of hypertension.