毛/涤面料性能与女西服袖山造型的关系

选用13种毛/涤斜纹面料制作泡泡袖女西服,讨论面料的物理和力学性能对西服袖山造型的影响。测试面料的面密度、厚度、经纬密度、悬垂性、弯曲刚度、折皱回复角等物理力学性能,并通过成衣后静态拍摄袖山形态,测定其袖泡起高度和袖隆起宽度。采用相关及回归分析,研究袖泡起高度和袖隆起宽度与面料性能之间的关系。研究结果表明:毛/涤面料的弯曲刚度、折皱回复角与袖山造型有密切关系,面料的悬垂性和拉伸性对袖山造型影响很小。     

服装袖山结构造型研究

"袖山"是服装款式中围绕人体臂根与身躯肩部转折造型的服装立体形态结构,对它的研究有利于把握人体形态与款式造型之间的适应性问题。基于人体臂根、肩部构造特征与功能需求出发,并运用立体裁剪的方法,对其部位功能与款式形态的相互适应性进行了原理解构分析。结果表明:人体臂根、肩上与服装袖山、衣身结构呈"凸"省形态,人体臂根、腋下与服装袖山、衣身结构呈"凹"省形态;袖山与袖窿弧线形态相互配合,必须以其"凸"、"凹"省形态为前提,最大程度地满足其内部结构与上肢静、动状态下的适应性和舒适性。     

插肩袖袖山高与袖中线角度的关系

插肩袖的袖山高与袖中线角度的配合是设计插肩袖的关键。为此,采用原型衣身1∶1作图并制作成衣实验的方法,得出在衣身原型情况下插肩袖袖山高与袖中线角度之间的经验回归式,二者之间具有很大的线性相关。在此基础上对经验回归公式进行检验与预测,并制作成衣进行实际检验。通过进一步的数学推导,得到在一般情况下插肩袖袖山高与袖中线角度的计算公式。分析认为,插肩袖袖山高与袖中线角度之间的关系式能为提高作图精度和计算机制图提供理论参考。     

泡泡袖切展角度与袖山弧线增量关系分析

通过分析泡泡袖的制图方法,选取一种基于角度的展开方法,结合CAD制图特点进行实验研究,得出了泡泡袖切展角度与袖山弧线增量的关系。     

毛衫袖窿与袖山的配伍设计研究

袖窿和袖山是毛衫的重要构成元素,其配伍设计不仅影响毛衫的外形,也是评价毛衫穿着舒适性的重要指标。文章分析了毛衫袖窿和袖山的造型特点和工艺设计方法,根据合体度的不同将毛衫袖窿分为4种形态,并与之匹配4种袖山造型。结合毛衫造型风格和功能性的要求,提出用袖窿深确定袖山高的设计方法。以合体型毛衫为例进行袖窿与袖山的外形配伍,形成一套合体型毛衫袖窿和袖山的工艺计算方法,为毛衫的工艺设计提供了理论依据,具有一定的实践应用价值。     

泡泡袖的袖山展开量与肩缩量关系的研究

在实验的基础上研究了泡泡袖的袖山展开量与肩缩量的关系,通过对实验数据的分析得出了它们之间的线性回归式。     

耸肩袖造型及结构分析

耸肩袖是一种肩部翘起的非常规袖型,肩部立体感强、外形干练。通过剖析人体肩部造型,分析耸肩袖的结构变化规律,对新型耸肩袖的造型及结构变化进行设计与分析。     

袖山与袖窿对位点的研究：兼论衣袖与衣身的对格

本文通过对两片圆装袖结构及缝制特点的研究，提出一种两片袖简单而有效的衣袖与袖窿对位的方法，使绱袖效率提高，袖子前后位置正确率提高。为服装工业化生产提高工作效率，提高绱袖质量提供一种方法。本文还介绍了两片圆装袖与前后衣身均对格的另一种方法。     

面料性能对平领重叠量及造型的影响

选用15种常见面料,采用文化式原型制作衣身样板,根据面料的不同特点,选用不同的重叠量,共绘制了11付领片纸样.通过分析研究平领重叠量与面料性能之间的关系,得出:在面料被测的参数中,厚度与重叠量的相关性最强,其次是经密、纬密、抗弯刚度、悬垂系数和面密度(其中,除经密、纬密与重叠量呈正相关外,其余均呈负相关关系);用于预测...     

氨纶纬编导电针织物纵向电力学性能

为探讨氨纶纬编导电织物在纵向拉伸时的电力学性能,采用锦纶/氨纶包芯纱和镀银导电纱线,经提花针织圆机编织了横列数为160,纵行数分别为24、48和74的3种不同组织结构的弹性纬编导电织物,并测试了该导电织物在拉伸状态下的电阻变化,分析其组织结构与纵行数对纬编导电织物电力学性能的影响。结果表明:在沿线圈纵行方向拉伸情况下,纬编导电织物呈现的电力学性能与经编导电织物相似,且横列数相同时,纵行数越少的导电织物灵敏度越好;横列数与纵行数相同时,纬平针织物的灵敏度最好,1+1罗纹织物次之,2+1罗纹织物最差。     

基于织物物理性能的服装舒适感觉的评价与预测

 基于心理感知评分和物理性能的测试数据研究织物性能和舒适感觉之间的关系,得出服装舒适性感觉因子和织物物理性能之间的线性回归方程。同时分析心理感知的评价数据以及感觉因子与物理性能的关联,建立了基于织物物理性能归纳服装整体感觉舒适的预测模式以及数理统计关系式。对从织物热湿性能和力学性能预测单项舒适主观感觉,再预测综合舒适感的模式,结合实验对象进行初步阐释与验证。     

Correlation between clothing air gap space and fabric mechanical properties

To investigate the distribution of clothing air gap layers, clothes with the same pattern but different fabrics were put on a standard scan model. The [TC]² NX-16 three-dimensional (3D) body scanning technique was used to collect point cloud data and the overall 3D visualization model of clothing air gaps was represented in a novel way through computer graphics processing. The volumes of air gap space were calculated. The main fabric mechanical properties were investigated and the relationship among them was analyzed by stepwise regression. The results demonstrated a close relationship between clothing air gap space and fabric mechanical properties. The volumes of air gap space were significantly positively correlated with stiffness-bending length and warp density and significantly negatively correlated with drape-crest angle uniformity. The conclusion could play a role in predicting and controlling the clothing design process, especially the material design process of clothing.     

Evaluating the fabric performance and antibacterial properties of 3-D piezoelectric spacer fabric

The increasing need of on-demand power for enabling portable low-power devices and sensors has necessitated work in novel energy harvesting materials and devices. In a recent work, we demonstrated the production and suitability of three-dimensional (3-D) spacer all fibre piezoelectric textiles for converting mechanical energy into electrical energy for wearable and technical applications. The current work investigates the textile performance properties of these 3-D piezoelectric fabrics including porosity, air permeability, water vapour transmission and bursting strength. Furthermore, as these textiles are intended for wearable applications, we have assessed their wear abrasion and consequently provide surface resistance measurements which can affect the lifetime and efficiency of charge collection in the piezoelectric textile structures. The results show that the novel smart fabric with a measured porosity of 68% had good air (1855 l/m²/s) and water vapour permeability (1.34 g/m²/day) values, good wear abrasion resistance over 60,000 rotations applied by a load of 12 kPa and bursting strength higher than 2400 kPa. Moreover, the antibacterial activity of 3-D piezoelectric fabrics revealed that owing to the use of Ag/PA66 yarns, the textiles exhibit excellent antibacterial activity against not only Gram-negative bacteria E. coli but they are also capable of killing antibiotic methicillin-resistant bacteria S. aureus.     

麂皮绒主要物理性能的灰色关联分析

针对7种不同规格的麂皮绒织物,测试其断裂强力和伸长、顶破强力、耐磨性、悬垂性、折皱回复性等性能指标,分析结构参数对其性能的影响;通过灰色关联分析,得出麂皮绒的结构参数与织物拉伸强力、耐磨性、悬垂性、抗折皱回复性的灰色关联序,为新型麂皮绒织物的设计和开发提供参考。     

Prototyping and analyzing physical properties of Weft knitted spacer fabrics as a substitute for wound dressings

In this research, the required physical properties of weft knitted spacer fabrics, as an alternative for wound dressings have been investigated. For this purpose, weft knitted spacer fabrics with five different fabric structures have been produced on the electronic flat knitting machine. Moreover, in order to compare the properties of the produced fabrics with available wound dressings in the market, two kinds of wound dressing have been prepared from the market. Then, the physical properties of the spacer fabrics and the wound dressings such as air permeability, water vapor permeability, thermal conductivity, compressibility and absorbency have been measured and compared. The results show that in weft knitted spacer fabrics with the same fabric structure of the outer layer and different inclination angle (the angle formed between the outer layer and the spacer yarn), by decreasing the inclination angle, the fabric air permeability, water vapor permeability and absorbency decrease and the thermal conductivity and compressibility increase. Moreover, the use of tuck stitches in the outer layer of the spacer fabric leads to an increase of air permeability, water vapor permeability, absorbency and thermal conductivity and decrease of compressibility. The wound dressings also exhibit less air permeability and compressibility than weft knitted spacer fabrics. On the other hand, they possess higher water vapor permeability and absorbency. According to the results, among the examined weft knitted spacer fabrics in this research, the fabric with the tuck stitches in the outer layer is specified as the most appropriate alternative for wound dressing, in case of wounds with low exudates.     

Weight reduction of microfibre polyester fabric and the effect on its physical and mechanical properties

For the present work, a heat‐set microfibre polyester woven fabric was treated with five different sodium hydroxide concentrations in similar conditions. Their physical and mechanical properties were studied and discussed. Changes in eight properties due to the weight reduction, i.e. surface properties, tear strength, crimp, compression, pressure recovery, crease recovery, abrasion and weave density which are reported in this work were not available for any type of weight reduced polyester fabrics in the cited literature. Results show that the weight reduction decreases yarn and fabric strength, fabric abrasion resistance, fabric tear strength and bending stiffness. On the other hand, it increases fabric thickness under low pressure, crease recovery angle, air permeability and drape of the fabric. The treatment showed no significant effect on the surface properties of the samples.     

Research on physical properties change and damage behavior of cotton fabrics dried in drum-dryer

In order to investigate the impact of the repeated drying in dryer on physical properties of cotton fabric, smoothness appearance (SA), dimensional shrinkage, bending stiffness, Scanning electron microscopy (SEM), thermo-gravimetric analyzer (TGA) and x-ray diffraction (XRD) were employed. Results showed that smoothness appearance grade of cotton fabrics significantly depended on drying cycles during first 15 drying cycles. The dimensional shrinkage of cotton fabric was slight and had no relationship with drying cycles, and the shrinkage in the warp direction (1.29-1.71%) is higher than that of weft direction (0.002-0.045%). The bending stiffness was enhanced by drum-drying based on the bending stiffness data. And found that drying had little effect on thermal stability and crystallinity of cotton fibers. This indicated that drying only affected the appearance physical properties of cotton fabric such as appearance smoothness, dimensional stability, did not change composition and molecular structure. And from multiple levels including fabric-level, yarn-level and fiber-level, explained reasons of fabric properties change (namely, damage behavior). Moreover, this finding is not only helpful to understand of damage mechanisms of cotton fabrics drying in dryer, but also provided reference for dryer manufacturers to accurately specify the types of clothing that can be dried by using a dryer.     

亚麻针织物性能测试与分析

文章分析了亚麻纤维的性能,同时采用66.7 tex的双股亚麻针织纱在9针型的手摇横机上进行多次试织,得出纬平针、1 1罗纹、满针罗纹、半畦边4种组织的最佳弯纱深度,最后织成4种不同组织的布样,并进行亚麻针织物结构基本参数、折皱回复性、吸湿性、刚柔性、悬垂性测定与分析,得出在手摇横机上编织出服用性能较优的组织,并对亚麻针织物的吸湿性及影响因素进行全面的探索,得出亚麻性能优良的主要原因.