羊毛/可溶性维纶包芯成膜纱技术研究

采用可溶性维纶(PVA)与毛单纱包芯伴纺技术，经摩擦纺将维纶以一定的比例包覆在毛单纱表面，在不提高毛纤维品质要求的情况下，可降低毛单纱的成纱特数，提高单纱强度，顺利通过单经单纬织造。     

毛单纱上浆工艺对织造制成率的影响

毛单纱上浆是减少毛单纱织造时产生毛羽及断头的主要解决措施,上浆工艺直接影响毛单纱上浆效果.文章通过实验,采用理论分析得出了浆槽温度和烘燥温度2个重要工艺参数同单纱上浆效果的关系.结果表明:在其他条件相同的情况下,开始时,毛单纱强力随上浆温度和烘干温度的升高而增加,但当浆液温度和烘干温度达到一定程度时,毛单纱的强力则随着上浆温度和烘干温度的增大而减小.     

对开发毛纱用蛋白质浆料的认识

阐述了毛单纱上浆在开发高档轻薄型毛织物中的重要性和必要性，提出了对明胶进行接枝共聚改性，开发适合于毛纱上浆的蛋白质浆料，以有效提高毛单纱可织性的技术途径，以及研制开发的技术关键和内容。     

毛纱单纱上浆的工艺探讨

分析了毛纱上浆应考虑的因素,确定了毛纱单纱上浆的浆料配方及主要工艺参数,浆后的毛纱毛羽伏贴强力提高,因此改善了单经单织物的织造性能。     

定长拉伸对包芯纱回缩性能及外观形态的影响

对3种莱卡/羊毛长丝包芯纱进行不同定伸长拉伸测试,分析纱线回缩率以及外观形态的变化。实验结果表明,3种包芯纱回缩均随定伸长的增大而增大,当定伸长小于10%时,纱线回缩程度较低,结构变化小;定伸长大于10%时,纱线回缩程度高,结构变化明显。被拉伸后纱线结构遭到破坏,单纱表面结构变得松散,包覆紧密程度下降,股线也发生严重回缩,同时相互加捻的2根单纱的紧密程度下降,分离程度增大,2根单纱间出现孔隙。     

单纱浆纱机毛纱上浆工艺的研究

针对单纱浆纱机毛纱上浆尚无系统的上浆工艺问题,研究上浆工艺中压浆力、浆液含固量、浆液温度、浆纱速度等工艺参数对浆纱性能的影响;结合GA392单纱浆纱机的特点,探讨单纱浆纱机毛纱上浆的工艺参数。结果表明:采用室温上浆,在浆液含固量为8%、压浆力44 N、浆纱速度65 m/min时,浆纱效果比较理想。浆纱后纱线强力、耐磨次数分别提高31.64%、53.00%,毛羽降低率达到81.75%,浆纱毛羽伏贴好。     

提高毛单纱质量的工艺探讨

通过改进纺纱工艺、确定合理捻系数、保持良好的机械状况和采用恰当的上浆，阐述了提高毛单纱质量的方法。     

毛纱上浆技术的发展及前景

８０年代初，随着精纺毛织品开始向轻薄型方向发展，对毛纱采取上浆、走单纱化道路的主张引起了人们的关注。经过毛精纺行业人士的不断研究摸索，发现常用棉型浆料不能在毛纱表面成膜，而目前应用极其普遍的辅助浆料却是一种极好的交联剂，可在毛纱表面形成有一定强度的浆膜。本文简要介绍了浆料配方和呢坯的退浆工艺，详细论述了整浆过程中的经纱排列方法。     

羊毛纱片浆专用组合浆料的研制

阐述了在棉型设备上生产毛单以型织物的优势，并针对毛单纱的特性，对毛单纱专用浆料的组成进行了分析、比较，得出以ＦＶ－１改性ＰＶＡ、聚丙烯酰胺、天然粘合剂为主体浆料的ＳＦ－Ｗ组合浆料在棉型设备上用于羊毛及其混纺单纱单浆片上浆效果优良的结论，为生产更细、更密、更薄的单纱毛织物提供了依据。     

提高毛单纱质量的工艺探讨

通过改进纺纱工艺、确定合理捻系数、保持良好的机械状况和采用恰当的上浆，阐明了提高毛单纱质量的方法。     

The effect of core-sheath proportion on the characteristics of hollow yarns: part I mechanical properties

In the scope of this study, core yarns in the yarn count of 59 tex were produced by using cotton, viscose, wool, and polyester fibers in the sheath and different ratios of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) in the core. After completion of yarn production on ring spinning frame, winding process was performed in order to get packages. These yarns in the form of packages were washed during a time period in order to remove PVA from the yarn structures to obtain hollow yarn structure. Yarn irregularity and yarn tensile tests were performed in the form of packages before and after washing process. As a result of these tests; it was observed that values of yarn unevenness and tensile tests were significantly influenced by the core-sheath proportion and washing process.     

采用滑溜牵伸的低比例山羊绒混纺纺纱实践

针对山羊绒与羊毛长度差异较大、牵伸隔距难以确定的问题,在JWF-1516 型棉纺环锭细纱机上采用滑溜牵伸与非滑溜牵伸的方式纺制山羊绒/羊毛混纺纱、山羊绒/ 羊毛/ 桑蚕丝混纺纱,分析滑溜牵伸与非滑溜牵伸方式纺制低比例山羊绒混纺纱的线密度和纱线质量。纺纱试验结果表明：采用滑溜牵伸与非滑溜牵伸的方式,均可纺制单纱线密度为11.1 tex 的羊毛/ 山羊绒（84/16）混纺纱与羊毛/ 山羊绒（65/35）混纺纱;与非滑溜牵伸方式相比,采用滑溜牵伸方式纺制的细纱粗节与细节明显减少;采用滑溜牵伸方式,可纺制单纱线密度为10 tex 的羊毛/ 山羊绒（84/16）混纺纱（单纱条干CV 值为19%）,和单纱线密度为8.3 tex 的羊毛/ 山羊绒/ 桑蚕丝（80/10/10）混纺纱（单纱条干CV 值为18.8%）,但这2 种线密度的混纺纱用非滑溜牵伸方式不可纺。     

高支全毛单经单纬产品的开发

探讨了利用水溶性聚乙稀醇 (PVA)纤维所纺单纱与全毛单纱并合加捻成股纱形式进行织造 ,再通过后整理将PVA单纱溶掉 ,得到符合要求的全毛高支轻薄型单经单纬产品的工艺方法     

The effect of core-sheath proportion on the characteristics of fabrics produced with hollow yarns: part II comfort and mechanical properties

The study aims to investigate the effect of hollow yarn structure and the sheath-core proportion of hollow yarns on the permeability properties of the knitted fabrics. In order to accomplish this, core yarns in the yarn count of 59 tex were produced by using cotton, viscose, wool, and polyester fibers in the sheath and different ratios of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) in the core. After completion of yarn production on ring spinning frame, the yarns in the form of packages were used to produce plain knitted fabrics. Fabrics were then divided into two groups, one of which was washed during a time period in order to remove PVA from the core to obtain hollow yarn structure. Air and water permeability, and wicking properties of the knitted fabrics were measured before and after washing processes. Mechanical properties such as pilling and bursting strength of the fabrics were also examined. The results show that washing process and PVA proportion used to produce core spun yarns have a significant effect on the permeability and mechanical properties of the fabrics.     

改性聚乙烯醇共聚浆料的合成与性能研究

利用红外光谱分析法对制备可回收再利用的改性聚乙烯醇共聚浆料结构进行了分析。实际应用测试结果表明：改性聚乙烯醇共聚浆料与纯棉纱线和涤棉纱线均具有很强的粘附性能和良好的上浆与退浆性能、水溶性能、吸湿性能，且易于回收再利用。当采用改性聚乙烯醇共聚浆料替代PVA浆料对涤棉纱线(T/C65/35 13．5tex)上浆时，所得浆纱具有良好的强伸性能、耐摩擦性能和毛羽贴伏性能。     

毛用新型复配浆JM的研制与性能研究

因单经单纬毛纱强力低,织造中易断头且毛羽多影响生产,故毛纱上浆成为研究热点.通过分析不同种浆料的含固量、粘度、失水率、退浆率、减少毛羽程度、断裂强度、断裂延伸度指标,指出这些单一浆料不能完全满足毛纱上浆的要求.选出3种浆料复配,经实验与分析,确定最优复配比,研制出新型毛用复配浆JM.     

采用可溶性维纶伴织工艺开发单经单纬轻薄型纯毛织物

针对可溶性维纶伴纺工艺生产单经单纬毛织物存在的一些问题,进行了伴织工艺实验,即采用10tex可溶性维纶纯纺纱与纯毛纱并捻伴织．然后通过退维处理得到单经单纬纯毛织物。这种方法工艺简单,织造效率高,可生产单经为20tex的纯毛织物.     

山羊绒纤维的拉伸性能

研究了山羊绒纤维的拉伸性能以及单纱的拉伸松弛性能,并与细支羊毛纤维进行对比。研究结果表明:山羊绒纤维的比强度、拉伸模量,松弛时间高于羊毛;在较小定伸长条件下,山羊绒纱线拉伸应力松弛速率慢于羊毛纱线,即山羊绒纱线比羊毛纱线难定形,这些力学性能的差异是由于山羊绒纤维α-结晶度高于羊毛;在80~130℃干热条件下,山羊绒纱线的拉伸应力松弛速率及其定形率均随温度的提高而提高;当温度高于120℃时,提高不显著。     

退维前后细号伴纺纱线的结构与性能探讨

探讨水溶性维纶伴纺细号纯棉纱线退维前后的性能变化。通过对水溶性维纶伴纺细号纯棉纱线退维前后的性能进行测试和比较,研究结果表明:经退维处理后,股线结构变松、直径变细、捻度增加、纤维排列变得紊乱;股线强力下降50%左右,断裂伸长率和初始模量下降超过8%,其可织性变差;股线条干均匀度明显恶化,细节、粗节、棉结等疵点大幅度增加。由此认为,采用"纱线退维"方式生产高密轻薄织物,必须严格控制纤维混纺比例和确保纤维充分混和,同时提高维纶伴纺单纱的质量水平;合理配置单纱和股线捻度;重视纱线退维工艺的优化,尽可能减少对纱线强伸性能的损伤。     

Impact of structural variations in hollow yarn on heat and moisture transport properties of fabrics

The use of hollow/microporous yarns plays an important role in enhancing the thermo‐physiological comfort properties of fabrics. Depending on structural variations in hollow yarn, heat and moisture regulation behaviours of fabrics can be affected significantly. In this study, three types of hollow cotton yarn fabrics, produced by introducing polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) filament in the core, PVA staple fibres in the blend and PVA filament in doubling with cotton spun yarn, are studied. All three types of pre‐hollow yarns and reference yarns are made with a variation in spinning technique (single roving/double roving) to prepare eight single jersey knitted fabrics. The hollow/microporous structure of the yarn is created by dissolving the PVA fibres using hot washing of the fabrics. On overall evaluation of the fabric’s thermo‐physiological comfort properties, the doubled hollow yarn fabrics are found to be better than other fabrics. In general, thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity, wicking and drying properties of all types of hollow yarn fabrics increase after repeated laundering, while air permeability, water vapour permeability and water absorbency of hollow yarn fabrics mostly decrease. In contrast with fabrics made from yarn produced through single roving technique, use of double roving technique only improves fabric water vapour permeability.