Application of high-performance liquid chromatography in the analysis of direct dyes in semipermanent hair colouring cosmetics

A method for the identification and the quantification of direct dyes in semipermanent hair colouring cosmetics by using a reversed phase high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with gradient elution and diode array detector (DAD) detection is presented. A standard mixture of 18 commonly marketed dyestuffs (11 nitroderivatives, two anthraquinones and five Arianor dyes) was studied. The major problems in the analysis of the mixture of direct dyes is the different chemical structure and especially the wide range of polarities. However we succeeded in the complete separation of the standard dyes. A qualitative analysis of eight colouring commercial products selected from different shades and a quantitative analysis of three of them was carried out. Materials, methods and results are reported.     

直接染料的硅凝胶固色工艺探讨

通过对 23只常用直接染料进行固色试验,发现硅凝胶能提高绝大多数直接染料的色牢度,对于一些黑色品种效果尤其明显,沾色牢度可以提高 2~3级。硅凝胶是一种极性溶剂,含有大量Si-OH基,可以与黑色染料结构中含有的氨基和羟基相互之间形成氢键。由于形成氢键后会影响互变异构体的平衡,少数染料的色光会有改变。     

Dyeing behaviours of amino heterocyclic compounds as blue oxidative hair dye precursors applied to keratin fibres

Several novel heterocyclic compounds based on 1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoline and 2,3-dihydroindole have been investigated for their application of colour keratin fibres as blue oxidative dye precursors, especially to human hair. The colourants we studied contained anyone of these dyes (concentration range from 0.005% to 6%), and some common oxidative hair dyes, such as p-phenylenediamine, toluene-2,5-diamine sulphate. Experiments were carried out on the method of mixing hair colourants with H(2)O(2) gel at the ratio of 1 : 1, accompanied by pH = 8～11. It is demonstrated that 1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoline derivatives could be considered as an excellent candidate for blue dyes, and N-methyl-7-amino-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoline is the most outstanding one among this kind of compounds. They own significant advantages of colour purity, stability and fastness. On the other hand, 2,3-dihydroindoles show the similar colours but not stable and brilliant enough.     

Study of dyeing properties of semipermanent dyestuffs for hair

In this article we have evaluated some of the factors (pH, solvent composition and dye structure) that influence the dyeing of hair with dyes from direct semipermanent categories. These dyes, in fact, have been used more and more in cosmetic industry over the last years, due to their lesser aggressiveness vs. hair fibres. Two different dye classes are investigated: phenylene diamine (HC), well known for their low molecular weight and their small size, and a series of Basic dyes, characterized by the same ionic charge (positive) but with different sizes and different polar groups in the molecule. pH and dyebath composition result critical factors controlling the diffusion and adsorption process.     

Effect of cationic charge and hydrophobic index of cellulose‐based polymers on the semipermanent dyestuff process for hair

In this work, the effects of a new class of polymers generally used in hair and skin cleansing products, the SoftCAT (SofCAT SL and SoftCAT SX), on the dye uptake on the hair fibre and the fading effects has been studied. These polymers, based on quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulose, are cationic products that differ in viscosity, hydrophobic substitution index (HS) and/or cationic substitution (CS, % N). UV–Vis spectroscopy has been used to analyse the extracted dyes from the hair cuticle and the cortex. The results indicate that the presence of polymers in the dye bath improve both the quality of the dyeing process and the anti‐fading effect during the washing cycles. This phenomenon is postulated to be attributable to the polymers hydrophobically bonding with the dyes and so facilitating their increased penetration into the hair.     

Natural ingredients for colouring and styling

This paper examines some of the existing methods for colouring the hair and skin using natural material (such as henna) and proposes a parallel technology that exists in the dyeing of wool and fabrics to extend the colour range. Many of the listed plants and their derivatives are not found in Annex IV of the Cosmetic Directive and may not be used as colours; however, they do have other properties which may justify their inclusion into a product, for example, as astringent or anti-inflammatory agents. The paper concludes with some reported antigreying and hair styling preparations cited in the literature.     

Removal of a wide range of dyes using 4-methyl-2-(naphthalen-2-yl)-N-propylpentanamide-functionalized ethoxy-silica and raw silica

The present research offers a comparative study on the character of the performance of dye removal using either functionalized silica or raw silica gel as adsorbents. First, these supports were characterized in terms of FT-IR and SEM analyses. Then, four different dye solutions were checked for the adsorption phenomenon: Eriochrome Black B (an acid dye), Methylene Blue (a basic dye), Direct Yellow 50 (a direct dye), and Reactive Blue 49 (a reactive dye). Experimental data revealed a dependence on the experimental conditions. Functionalized silica presented a higher removal of dyes than the raw silica. Among the four studied dyes, the highest capacity removal was achieved with Eriochrome Blue Black B (140 mg g^?1) using functionalized silica as adsorbent. This value was reduced to 55 mg g^?1 for raw silica. Further, kinetic and thermodynamic investigations of Eriochrome were discussed. Results gleaned from this study suggest that the functionalized silica could be considered as an efficient candidate to treat colored waters.     

The mutagenicity and carcinogenicity of hair dyes

A number of the constituents of semi-permanent and permanent hair dyes have been shown to be mutagenic in bacteria, to induce mutation, chromosome breakage, sister chromatid exchanges and malignant transformation in mammalian cells, to cause mutation in Drosophila , to induce mitotic recombination in yeast and to induce tumours in rodents. Some hair dye ingredients and commercial dyes have been shown to give rise, in the urine of treated rats, to metabolites which are also mutagenic in bacteria.
The test systems used are briefly described and the data generated are reviewed. In addition, attempts to identify whether the hazards predicted from the laboratory studies present a risk to man either by epidemiological studies or monitoring of exposed populations are also discussed.
La mutagenese et la carcinogenese des colorants capillaires     

提高涤棉织物分散/还原染料的耐水渍牢度

涤棉染色和印花大多采用分散／还原工艺，由于织物组分、配比之间的因素和加工工艺中存在的技术问题，染色织物的耐水渍牢度并不理想，尤其是尼龙沾色牢度指标很差，不能满足产品要求。通过比较常规还原处理、焙烘固色和FTD处理的效果，认为FTD处理效果较好，且工艺流程短，色光纯正明亮。     

分散染料染色相容性的研究

测试了五只分散染料的上染速率曲线、提升力曲线和色度学参数，结合双拼色试验结果分析，发现分散红3B、分散黄5GL和分散蓝2BLN组合在一起浸染，染料的相容性好，与其I／O（无机性／有机性）值相差不大的结果十分吻合。     

Determination of impurities in oxidation hair dyes as raw materials by liquid chromatography (HPLC)

Oxidation hair dyes as raw materials may present toxic impurities from synthesis or degradation pathways, which are responsible for allergic phenomena. In the present study selective and sensitive HPLC methods are proposed for the determination of Bandrowski base, 4-chloroaniline, 1,2-phenylenediamine and 4,4'-diaminoazobenzene in 1,4-phenylenediamine as well as 2,4-diaminoanisole in N-hydroxyethyl-4-methoxy-1,3-phenylenediamine. The proposed methods, based on reversed phase mode separation using 1,8-diaminooctane as amine modifier and photodiode array detection, proved to be suitable for the purity assessment of these widely used hair dyes; in particular the cited potential impurities were determined at ppm level.     

Determination of synthetic dyes in selected foodstuffs by high performance liquid chromatography with UV-DAD detection

A relatively fast method was developed and applied to the determination of selected synthetic food dyes (Sunset Yellow, Tartrazine, Amaranth, Brilliant Blue and Red-40) in three different kinds of foodstuffs: solid juice powders, solid jelly powders and soft drinks. High performance liquid chromatography with UV-DAD detection was employed. The developed chromatographic method employed an ODS Zorbax column (250 mm; 4.6 mm; 5 μm). Two different solvent systems were employed depending on the expected dyes in the studied samples. Sample preparation consisted of dissolving and filtering the samples and showed high throughput. Adequate detection and quantification limits together with high recoveries (better than 98.8%) were obtained. All studied samples showed dye levels in conformity with Brazilian legislation. Indeed some products showed poor quality and/or production controls due to the variability between lots. This fact was more critical for Tartrazine and Sunset Yellow in solid juice powders and there is concern that these substances can exceed legislated values. It was also observed that different producers use different dyes and/or composition in similar products.     

羊毛染色含铬染料替代产品与技术的研究

文章介绍了长期使用的媒介染料对人类和环境的危害,以及用作羊毛染色的诸多弊病,以期引起毛纺行业和相关部门的高度重视.同时介绍了活性染料在羊毛染色方面,染料、助剂等方面的沿革与发展趋势.研究结果表明,活性染料因色彩鲜艳、牢度优良、价格适中,而成为代替媒介染料以及含媒染料的优良产品,也是未来毛用染料的主选产品.     

氮纶纤维分散染料染色性能探讨

通过对几种结构类型分散染料氨纶纤维上染率的测定，结合分散染料的IOB（无机/有机）值，探讨了分散染料结构与氨纶染色性的关系，系统测试了影响分散染料染氨纶的主要工艺参数，提出氨纶染色优化工艺条件。     

染料结构与氨纶的染色性探讨

采用中性、弱酸性、分散、活性染料对氨纶进行染色，并对染料分子结构及IOB值与氨纶染色性能的关系进行了探讨。结果表明，一般分散染料和1：2金属络合结构中性染料的染色性能优良，部分弱酸性染料镒之，活性染料染色性差。具有类似结构的染料，随着IOB值降低，即疏水性增加，上染率呈增高趋势。     

Qualitative determination of carbon black in food products

Carbon black (C.I. 77266) is an insoluble pigment produced by the partial combustion of hydrocarbons. The pigment is known by several synonyms, including vegetable carbon, lamp black and carbon ash, that correspond to the raw materials and methods used for its production. Vegetable carbon (E153) is permitted for use in colouring food in the European Union. The US Food and Drug Administration (USFDA) has not approved the use of any type of carbon black for colouring food, although the agency batch certifies the pigment as D&C Black No. 2 for use in colouring certain cosmetics. Since carbon black (as vegetable carbon) may be present in food products offered for import into the United States, the USFDA's district laboratories need a qualitative analytical method for determining its presence. We have developed an extraction method for this purpose. A sample is broken down and dissolved with nitric acid. The resulting solution is filtered and treated with hydrochloric acid to dissolve any black iron oxide also present as a colour additive. A black residue remaining on the filter paper indicates the presence of carbon black in the food. We confirmed the presence of carbon black in residues from several standards and food products using Raman spectroscopy. The limit of detection for this method is 0.0001%.     

涤纶织物的杂环苯并噻唑染料碱性短流程染色

涤纶织物碱性染色可以缩短工艺过程,节能节水,是染色节能减排的重要发展方向.但碱性染色对染料的结构稳定性要求较高.用2-氨基-6-硝基苯并噻唑作为重氮组分,N-取代苯胺作为偶合组分,设计合成了5个含有不同N-取代基的分散染料.分散染料采用高温高压染色工艺对涤纶织物进行染色,研究不同NaOH质量浓度(1～5 g/L)条件下...     

超高效液相色谱法同时测定包衣糖果中5种铝色淀

目的 建立包衣糖果中柠檬黄、日落黄、胭脂红、诱惑红和亮蓝5种铝色淀的超高效液相色谱测定方法.方法 用NaOH溶液浸泡提取包衣糖果中的色淀,以乙腈-乙酸铵(10 mmol/L)为流动相,梯度洗脱,多波长检测定量.结果 5种目标化合物在0.25～50 mg/L范围内呈良好的线性,相关系数R2 ＞0.999.该方法中5种目标化合物的定量限(LOQ)均为1.0 mg/kg.在1、5、25 mg/kg三个添加浓度水平下,5种目标化合物的加标回收率为79.5％ ～116.4％,RSD为0.92％ ～6.48％.结论 该方法简单、快速、准确,适于包衣糖果中5种铝色淀的同时检测.     

禁用偶氮染料及其检测标准

本文从发展历史、检测标准、来源和检测原理等方面对偶氮染料进行了论述。     

小浴比染色用活性染料配伍性能研究

选取生产用两套三拼色活性染料,测定了各只染料在小浴比染色条件下的S、E、R、F值以及移染性、匀染性等染色性能,根据染色特征参数相近原则分析其配伍性。然后采用浴比依存性试验进一步探讨拼色染料在浴比变化时的配伍性,并通过拼色试验分析了拼色染料的上染同步性。试验研究表明,两套三拼色染料都具有较好的浴比依存性,其配伍性受浴比变化的影响较小。染色特征参数可用于判断小浴比染色用活性染料的配伍性能,其结果与染料的染色特征曲线和拼色试验的分析结果一致。