Cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics: current use and future prospects

Cinnamic acid derivatives are widely used in cosmetics and possess various functions. This group of compounds includes both naturally occurring and synthetic substances. On the basis of the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng) and available literature, this review summarizes their functions in cosmetics, including their physicochemical and biological properties as well as reported adverse effects. A perfuming function is typical of many derivatives of cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, dihydrocinnamyl alcohol and cinnamic acid itself; these substances are commonly used in cosmetics all over the world. Some of them show allergic and photoallergic potential, resulting in restrictions in maximum concentrations and/or a requirement to indicate the presence of some substances in the list of ingredients when their concentrations exceed certain fixed values in a cosmetic product. Another important function of cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics is UV protection. Ester derivatives such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate), isoamyl p‐methoxycinnamte (amiloxiate), octocrylene and cinoxate are used in cosmetics all over the world as UV filters. However, their maximum concentrations in cosmetic products are restricted due to their adverse effects, which include contact and a photocontact allergies, phototoxic contact dermatitis, contact dermatitis, estrogenic modulation and generation of reactive oxygen species. Other rarely utilized functions of cinnamic acid derivatives are as an antioxidant, in skin conditioning, hair conditioning, as a tonic and in antimicrobial activities. Moreover, some currently investigated natural and synthetic derivatives of cinnamic acid have shown skin lightening and anti‐ageing properties. Some of them may become new cosmetic ingredients in the future. In particular, 4‐hydroxycinnamic acid, which is currently indexed as a skin‐conditioning cosmetics ingredient, has been widely tested in vitro and in vivo as a new drug candidate for the treatment of hyperpigmentation.     

Shear viscosity of concentrated spherical silica suspension – effect of polymethylsiloxane surface treatment

Common cosmetic dermatitis is composed of mainly chronic irritant contact dermatitis, allergic contact dermatitis and pigmented cosmetic dermatitis. Special types include atopic contact dermatitis due to cosmetics, complication of corticosteroid dermatosis, and eyelid dermatitis. Common cosmetic sensitizers are various fragrances, pigments and base components. The best treatment to stop the recrudescence of cosmetic dermatitis is to perform patch testing to discover causative allergens for the patients, so that allergen control becomes possible later. It has been the only effective method to perfectly cure the disastrous pigmented cosmetic dermatitis with Mongoloids in the past. The avoidance of very allergenic fragrances (class A fragrances in the table) and two pigments, D&C Red No.31 and Yellow No.11 is essential to reduce cosmetic dermatitis of the consumers. The introduction of guidelines to avoid strong sensitizers is recommended. Recently, eyelid dermatitis due to allergy or irritation has been common and rubbing itchy eyelids has led to blindness due to retinal abrasion. Adding various plant components seemed to have increased the irritation, and it is better to be avoided hereafter.     

Integrating toxicology into cosmetic ingredient research and development

Toxicity assessment of new cosmetic ingredients is often relegated to the end of the research and development (R&D) cycle. This is an inefficient development scheme, since toxicity concerns often lead to restrictions on the type of cosmetic applications the ingredient can go into and can even lead to abandoning the ingredient. This paper presents a tiered approach for integrating toxicology into cosmetic ingredient R&D. The tiered approach is flexible allowing a company to make cost-efficient use of readily available resources. Integrating toxicity assessment of new cosmetic ingredients early in the R&D cycle would help avoid developing ingredients with limited or no market potential due to toxicity concerns.     

Structural and dynamical properties of water in sugar mixtures

Trehalose, a bioprotective sugar, has very important applications in different industrial fields, such as food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. Trehalose can be used as a new multi-functional ingredient with considerable potential for the industry. The characterization of molecular mechanisms underlying the manifold functions of trehalose is very important for the understanding and exploitation of the potentialities of the disaccharide.     

The function of polyglyceryl erucate/isostearate/ricinoleate

Today, it is said that the formula design of cosmetics from ingredients of plant origin is an indispensable way and trend. From this consideration, cosmetic materials made from animal and synthetic petroleum ingredients are becoming less usable. Instead, cosmetic materials are designed from ingredients of plant origin and many and various botanical ingredients are being developed. Lanolin, which is one of the animal-based ingredients, is said to have ideal functions as a cosmetic oil, and it has been used in many fields such as make-up cosmetics as well as hair and skin care products for a long time. However, unfortunately, lanolin is an animal-based ingredient; therefore, the development of a botanical ingredient to replace lanolin was desired. Polyglyceryl-8 decaerucate/isostearate/ricinoleate, which we have developed, is an ester oil originating from plants and has an equivalent or higher function than lanolin. We have confirmed that our developed ester oil has various excellent characteristics such as a water-holding capability 2.5 times higher than that of lanolin, high air permeability, moisture keeping in dermal layers, protection of hair from changes in external environmental humidity, and excellent gloss and excellent dispersability of pigments. Thus, this newly developed ester oil is expected to be a promising new botanical cosmetic ingredient which can be applied in various fields.     

Renewable sources: applications in personal care formulations

A global tendency for products considered environmentally sustainable, and ecologically obtained led the industry related to personal care formulations to fund the research and the development of personal care/cosmetics containing ingredients from natural resources. Furthermore, consumers are aware of environmental and sustainability issueans, thus not harming the environment represents a key consideration when developing a new cosmetic ingredient. In this study we review some examples of active ingredients or raw materials used in cosmetics/personal care/biomedical products that are coming from either through biotechnological systems, or as byproducts of several industries. A skin formulation containing biosynthetic actives, prepared by us and the study regarding its dermocosmetic properties are also described. The need for the standardization processes, the safety assessment tools, the improvement of the exploitation methods of these renewable sources in order the production to be ecologically and economically better are also discussed.     

Application of microencapsulated essential oils in cosmetic and personal healthcare products – a review

Nowadays, the consumers around the world are increasingly focused on health and beauty. The renewed consumer interest in natural cosmetic products creates the demand for new products and reformulated others with botanical and functional ingredients. In cosmetic products, essential oils (EOs) play a major role as fragrance ingredients. They can optimize its proprieties and preservation, as well as the marketing image of the final product. Microencapsulation of EOs can protect and prevent the loss of volatile aromatic ingredients and improve the controlled release and stability of this core materials. The importance of EOs for cosmetic industry and its microencapsulation was reviewed in this study. Also a briefly introduction about the preparation of microparticles was presented. Some of the most important and usual microencapsulation techniques of EOs, as well as the conventional encapsulating agents, were discussed. Despite the fact that microencapsulation of EOs is a very promising and extremely attractive application area for cosmetic industry, further basic research needs to be carried out, for a better understanding of the biofunctional activities of microencapsulated EOs and its release modulation, as well as the effects of others cosmetic ingredients and the storage time in the microparticles properties.     

Formulating for efficacy

Active ingredients have been around in cosmetics for a long time but have they really resulted in active cosmetic products? In order to achieve this, the right active needs to be delivered to the right location at the right concentration for the correct period of time. And the extent (and therefore the concentration) of this delivery depends on the formulation. From a rather theoretical approach based on the polarity of the active ingredient, the stratum corneum and the oil phase, the Relative Polarity Index was established that enables the selection of a suitable emollient for ensuring skin penetration of the active ingredient. Practical examples subsequently show the validity of this approach that demonstrates that one can regulate the delivery of an active molecule (and therefore the efficacy of a cosmetic formulation) by selection and control of the emollient system. Cosmetic formulations are generally quite complex mixtures and subsequent experiments using different emulsifier systems indicated that this component of a cosmetic formulation could also have an impact on steering the active ingredient to the right layer of the skin, although it is too early to be able to derive general rules from this.     

Transdermal delivery of two antioxidants from different cosmetic formulations

The efficacy of any cosmetic product containing a functional ingredient is determined by the skin delivery of the active molecule, which is influenced by the type of the vehicle and the molecule itself. This study was designed to compare the percutaneous absorption habits of the antioxidants carcinine and lipoic acid out of various formulations by means of the porcine skin model. Initial evaluation of the in vitro porcine skin model has demonstrated its feasibility for various substances and formulations [1, 2]. Increasing legal requirements for risk assessment in the cosmetic industry have led to the development of this alternative test method. The penetration properties are determined by the OECD Guideline TG 428: Skin Absorption: in vitro Method [3, 4], which allows the use of porcine skin for penetration studies. Porcine skin is used because of its similarity to human skin in terms of its morphology and the essential permeation characteristics [5]. The mass balances for each tested formulation type of the antioxidants show individual penetration behaviours with significant differences. The presented data plainly demonstrate that the lipophilic lipoic acid has a distinct higher penetration potential than the hydrophilic carcinine. The chosen vehicle can enhance or reduce the transdermal delivery of both tested antioxidants. Modern effective cosmetic formulations will work only, if the active ingredients penetrate into the epidermis. In conclusion, the correct selection of a suitable formulation plays an important role during product development.     

Routine patch testing with the preservative system Kathon CG

Of 1620 patients routinely patch tested with Kathon CG 100 p.p.m. aqua for suspected allergic contact dermatitis, 81 (5.0%) had a positive reaction. Sixty-two reactions (3.8%) were relevant for the dermatitis for which the patient consulted the dermatologist. Most patients were females who presented with dermatitis of the hands and/or face. Forty-six per cent of the patients had become sensitized by using cosmetic products on healthy skin. The other 54% had pre-existing dermatitis, especially atopic dermatitis and irritant dermatitis. Most reactions were caused by moisturizing creams.     

Capillary electrophoresis as analytical method for active ingredient determination in cosmetic matrices

Capillary electrophoresis (CE) has emerged as an important technique applied to analytical chemistry and quality control. In the cosmetic field ascorbic acid is important for soothing, bleaching and for its scavenger activity. Ascorbic acid is responsible for great number of physiological oxidations in electron transfer reactions. Many natural substances have a functional activity which is very difficult to preserve or even to prolong with the requested and expected treatment. This paper reports the study of capillary electrophoresis for the characterization of ascorbic acid as the active ingredient in a new delivery system that is able to preserve stability and to prolong release of ascorbic acid according to the concentration needs of a cosmetic formulation.     

Health Effects of Probiotics on the Skin

Skin is the largest organ of the body and is constantly exposed to physical, chemical, bacterial, and fungal challenges. It is well known that probiotics are helpful for specific disorders and different clinical studies have indicated that probiotics have special effects in cutaneous apparatus directly or indirectly that can be considerable from versatile aspects. Probiotic bacteriotherapy can have great potential in preventing and treating the skin diseases including eczema, atopic dermatitis, acne, and allergic inflammation or in skin hypersensitivity, UV-induced skin damage, wound protection, and as a cosmetic product. The current paper comprehensively reviews the different health effects of probiotics on the skin.     

Preparation of liposomes from milk fat globule membrane phospholipids using a microfluidizer

The isolation of milk fat globule membrane (MFGM) material from buttermilk on a commercial scale has provided a new ingredient rich in phospholipids and sphingolipids. An MFGM-derived phospholipid fraction was used to produce liposomes via a high-pressure homogenizer (Microfluidizer). This technique does not require the use of solvents or detergents, and is suitable for use in the food industry. The liposome dispersion had an average hydrodynamic diameter of 95 nm, with a broad particle-size distribution. Increasing the number of passes through the Microfluidizer, increasing the pressure, or reducing the phospholipid concentration all resulted in a smaller average liposome diameter. Changing these variables did not have a significant effect on the polydispersity of the dispersion. Electron microscopy showed that the dispersions formed had a range of structures, including unilamellar, multilamellar, and multivesicular liposomes. The composition of the MFGM phospholipid material is different from that of the phospholipids usually used for liposome production in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. The MFGM-derived fraction comprises approximately 25% sphingomyelin, and the fatty acids are primarily saturated and monounsaturated. These differences are likely to affect the properties of the liposomes produced from the phospholipid material, and it may be possible to exploit the unique composition of the MFGM phospholipid fraction in the delivery of bioactive ingredients in functional foods.     

Effect of a tea tree oil and organic acid footbath solution on digital dermatitis in dairy cows

Copper sulfate is the industry gold standard footbath ingredient for controlling dairy cow digital dermatitis. However, when used footbath solutions are deposited on soil, high levels of copper in the soil may result, which can have toxic and negative effects on plant growth. An alternative to copper sulfate is Provita Hoofsure Endurance (Provita Eurotech Ltd., Omagh, UK), which is a biodegradable solution containing organic acids, tea tree oil, and wetting agents. The objective of this study was to quantify changes in digital dermatitis frequency when using Provita Hoofsure Endurance and copper sulfate in a split footbath in 3 commercial dairy herds. This study was conducted from January 5, 2012, to March 19, 2012, in 3 commercial Kentucky dairies with 120, 170, and 200 milking Holstein cows. None of the herds was using a footbath for digital dermatitis control before the study. Footbath solutions were delivered using a split footbath. During the study, a 3% Hoofsure Endurance solution for the left hooves and a 5% copper sulfate solution for the right hooves was used. Digital dermatitis was scored every 3 wk using the M0 to M4 system, where M0 = a claw free of signs of digital dermatitis; M1 = a lesion <2 cm that is not painful; M2 = the ulcerative stage, with lesion diameter of >2 cm, and painful to the touch; M3 = the healing stage and covered by a scab; and M4 = the chronic stage and characterized by dyskeratosis or proliferation of the surface that is generally not painful. McNemar’s test statistic suggested that a statistically significant difference existed in the proportions of M1 and M2 lesions between the beginning and end of the study for both treatments. This indicates that each solution was effective in decreasing the proportion of M1 or M2 lesions from baseline to the last time point. A chi-square test calculated using PROC FREQUENCY of SAS (SAS Institute Inc., Cary, NC) indicated that no statistically significant relationship existed between the treatments among changes in digital dermatitis frequency from the baseline to the end of the study. Performance of the 2 footbath solutions was comparable throughout the study. No significant differences were observed between the copper sulfate and Provita Hoofsure Endurance.     

苦瓜皂甙的研究进展

综述了苦瓜皂甙的分子结构、理化性质、生理功能等的研究进展情况，并提出了对苦瓜皂甙的研究和开发中应注意的问题。化学研究表明，苦瓜皂甙主要属于四环三萜类葫芦素烷型皂甙，由皂甙元和低聚糖构成，已经提取分离出的有苦瓜皂甙A、B、F、G、I等成分。现代医学研究发现，苦瓜皂甙具有降血糖、抗氧化、提高免疫能力、降低胆固醇、抗肿瘤和抗艾滋病毒等生理功能。苦瓜皂甙具有多种生物学和药学性质，将广泛应用于食品、医药、化妆品和饲料等行业中，开发苦瓜皂甙具有广阔的前景。     

新疆有机大枣的加工及安全性分析

本文简述了新疆有机大枣的加工厂环境、配料添加剂和加工助剂的使用情况、加工情况、有害生物防治、包装及贮藏的情况,对有机大枣的安全性进行了分析并提出了新疆有机大枣产业存在的问题及相应的建议。     

A comparison of biological activities of a new soya biopeptide studied in an in vitro skin equivalent model and human volunteers

During aging, the epidermis and dermis become thin and an efficient anti-aging product should be able to stimulate the metabolism of senescent fibroblast and keratinocytes, in order to increase the quantity of extra-cellular matrix components such as collagen and glycosaminoglycans. A study performed in parallel on an in vitro skin equivalent model, and in vivo, with human volunteers, demonstrated the efficacy of one specific soya biopeptide for anti-aging properties. Such a biopeptide induces a significant increase of glycosaminoglycans synthesis in vitro and in vivo after a one-month treatment. We also showed that this new cosmetic ingredient is able to stimulate favourably the collagen synthesis in vitro and in vivo. This study provided the proof for anti-aging properties of a new soya biopeptide and also validated the skin equivalent model developed for this experimentation as an alternative method to animal or human testing for some cosmetic efficacy evaluations.     

An analytical method for the determination of betaine (trimethylglycine) from hair

Hair fibres have no active renewable protective mechanisms yet hair (wool and fur) provides an essential protective function. Therefore, it is possible that hair contains a number of internal components to maintain fibre and protein structure and function through a range of normal environmental conditions. Trimethylglycine (betaine) provides cellular and protein protection during times of high osmotic stress and low water concentrations. These conditions are very pertinent to everyday cosmetic procedures such as shampooing, bleach or perming. Therefore, we have conducted preliminary investigations to establish the presence of natural betaine in hair as a possible ingredient to provide protection and maintain protein function. Using an high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) technique designed for the analysis of betaine in blood and urine, we have demonstrated, via simple hot water extraction, a measurable level of betaine in blood and human hair. Further, we have demonstrated, in principle, the possibility of adding betaine back to the fibre via cosmetic products such as shampoos.     

A double-blind randomized vehicle-controlled clinical trial investigating the effect of ZnPTO dose on the scalp vs. antidandruff efficacy and antimycotic activity

Dandruff is a common problem in approximately 30% of the world's population. Reports in the literature regarding treatment of this condition with various antidandruff shampoos usually report the level of active ingredient within the formulation. However, we propose that a more important parameter relating to antidandruff efficacy is the amount of active ingredient delivered to the scalp from the shampoo. This report describes the results from two studies designed to investigate the relationship between the level of zinc pyrithione (ZnPTO) deposited onto the scalp and the resultant scalp condition. A double-blind randomized vehicle-controlled clinical study comparing three shampoos - a vehicle, a low-depositing ZnPTO shampoo and a high-depositing ZnPTO shampoo - was carried out in the U.K. with 53 panelists with dandruff or mild-to-moderate seborrheic dermatitis of the scalp. Both shampoos containing ZnPTO were significantly superior in antidandruff efficacy to the vehicle. Furthermore, the high-depositing ZnPTO shampoo was significantly superior compared with the low-depositing ZnPTO shampoo in terms of both antidandruff efficacy and antimycotic activity. Antidandruff performance and antimycotic activity of ZnPTO-containing shampoos is highly dependent on the amount of active ingredient delivered to the scalp. Furthermore, careful manipulation of the formulation parameters of an antidandruff shampoo can result in enhanced levels of delivery of the active ingredient without having to increase the level of active ingredient within the formulation.     

The Bioactivity and Toxicological Actions of Carvacrol

Carvacrol is a monoterpenic phenol produced by an abundant number of aromatic plants, including thyme and oregano. Presently, carvacrol is used in low concentrations as a food flavoring ingredient and preservative, as well as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetic formulations. In recent years, considerable research has been undertaken in an effort to establish the biological actions of carvacrol for its potential use in clinical applications. Results from in vitro and in vivo studies show that carvacrol possess a variety of biological and pharmacological properties including antioxidant, antibacterial, antifungal, anticancer, anti-inflammatory, hepatoprotective, spasmolytic, and vasorelaxant. The focus of this review is to evaluate the existing knowledge regarding the biological, pharmacological, and toxicological effects of carvacrol.