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1.
Three years ago during the 1997 APLF Shanghai Richina Leather CO., Ltd. launched it′s finished leather-marketing effort.The first line of leathers shown then was limited and aimed at the US shoe market.Today SRL produces and markets an extensive line of leathers ranging from waterproof to dressy to rugged, from fashion right leathers to staple items. The newest addition being lightweight lines in waterproof as well as regular.While in 1997 only one sales marketing person was employed, …  相似文献   

2.
The silk fiber has an irreplaceable position in textile fibers and related silk fabrics have the advantages of light and airy texture good moisture absorption and breathability comfort in wear etc. It is also widely used in other fields such as the biomedical sector. However silk also has its own limitations poor light resistance and susceptibility to ultraviolet light especially the ultraviolet light of 290-400 nm wavelength in daylight such as under which condition it is prone to yellowing and photodegradation. The yellowing of silk is due to the photo-oxidation of tyrosine and tryptophan in silk protein under the action of ultraviolet light from sunlight and due to the production of yellow substances which affects the whiteness of silk. In addition from the molecular structure of silk most of the amino acids susceptible to UV light are distributed in the amorphous region. As the amorphous region is affected the structure of the crystalline region is also gradually relaxed the local degradation begins and the silk protein macromolecule chain is cleaved which leads to the decrease of the mechanical properties of silk fibers and accelerates the aging of silk fibers and fabrics. Therefore it is necessary to modify the silk products outside the anti-purple line. The current methods used to modify silk are mostly for post finishing modification including coating impregnation and chemical grafting methods but these methods often affect the original color or feel of the fabric and the durability of the modified effect is also poor. The feeding method is a green method to obtain modified silk by spraying mulberry leaves or artificial feed mixed with modifier which is ingested by silkworm and transferred to silk gland. In this study five aminobenzene UV absorbers were used as exogenous additive food for silkworms. The effect of molecular polarity on the transport of modifiers to silk glands was investigated and their effects on silkworm development and silk structural properties were studied. It was found that the aminobenzene UV absorbers were more easily transferred to the central silk gland silk glue and less to the posterior silk gland (fibroin). 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid was found to be the highest in the posterior silk gland with a content of 3. 27 μg / strip. The cocoon width and cocoon quality of this group were significantly lower than those of the control group and the silk gum content was increased when this group was used as the study object. Compared with the control group the relative content of β-folded structure and crystallinity of the silk in the addition feeding group decreased slightly. The silkworm silk in the feeding group showed a certain UV absorption ability. After 330 h UV irradiation the breaking strength and elongation of the control group decreased by 48. 95% and 43. 52% respectively while those of the feeding group decreased by 42. 03% and 34. 18% respectively. In this paper UV absorbers were added to silkworms to obtain modified silk mainly focusing on the transfer of the modifier to the silk gland and the structural properties of the modified silk only for the most UV absorbers to enter the silk gland of the posterior group of silk. Other properties of the modified silk such as washing resistance have not been studied and some more in-depth studies are required. For instance it needs to be studied in depth for the limited absorption of exogenous additives by silkworms additive food's being not always absorbed by silkworms and transferred to the silk gland and the mechanism of action between the additive food and silk protein after the former's entering the silk gland. © 2022 Authors. All rights reserved.  相似文献   

3.
Ink-jet priming is a high technology applied in non-touching printing of many product lines.Various patterns can be printed on the surface of the objects under electronic control. The nontouching printing technology is ideal for printing on the surface of the irregular shaped objects.Manufacturing date, specification, size, ingredient, quantity or logos can be printed on food,beverage, cosmetics, medicine,chemistry, tobacco and alcohol.The patterns are clearly printed at a high speed. The printing process is operated synchronously with the product lines. It is essential to modern enterprises  相似文献   

4.
The term "Wool" is generally understood to refer to the fleece obtained from sheep, Sheep was probably one of the first animals to be domesticated and wool was one of the natural fibres that mankind earliestly and successfully made into a fabric, as far back as the remote stone age. In the beginning primitive sheep were covered with hair, and wool was merely a soft, slight down next to the skin, as is still true of some native unimproved sheep of present time. Because of the many environmental adaptions, it is impossible to determine the many original breeds of sheep contributing to modern types. Most fleece wools for textile use can be classified on the basis &f fineness and length into one of five types. (?)ine wool, medium wool, long wool, crossbred wool and carpet, or mixed wool. Only the Merino family can be classified as fine wool breeds. The ancestor of the finest wool —  相似文献   

5.
张博源  黄成泉  王琴  万林江  周丽华 《丝绸》2022,(12):119-125
The Miao nationality is the sixth largest ethnic group in China which has a history of thousands of years. It has created a unique material culture and spiritual culture in its development process and the Miao costume is a highly condensed collection of the material and spiritual culture of the Miao nationality. As one of the unique symbols of Miao culture the Miao costume has profound cultural heritage and cultural connotations. The patterns of the Miao costume are particularly eye-catching as they not only symbolize the wisdom of the Miao people in thousands of years of production and life but also symbolize the pursuit of the good spirit of the Miao people. However under the impact of modern pop culture and foreign culture these cultural symbols are gradually disappearing. In order to protect and inherit them the Miao costume pattern segmentation has become the most important work. However the Miao costume pattern segmentation is quite difficult. At present there are few studies on the extraction classification identification and preservation of the features of Miao costume pattern segmentation. With the excellent segmentation performance of the U-Net model and the advantages of easy deployment the paper improves the basic structure of the U-Net model and proposes a Miao costume pattern segmentation algorithm based on the RSKP-UNet Residual Selective-Kernel Parallel U-Net model. The algorithm adds Residual modules in the encoder part of the U-Net model to improve the feature extraction capability of the model and embeds the SKNet modules and ParNet modules in the decoder part to enhance the feature expression capability of the model. The paper uses evaluation metrics to measure the segmentation performance of the model and compares it with four segmentation models based on deep learning. The paper not only combines the current research focus-deep learning and attention mechanism but also introduces the Lovász-hinge loss function to effectively solve the problem of class imbalance in the Miao costume patterns. The RSKP-UNet model is better than other models in various segmentation indicators. Compared with the benchmark model U-Net the Dice coefficient IoU precision recall and accuracy are improved by 6. 98% 11. 07% 2. 89% 6. 75% and 3. 92% . The segmentation algorithm proposed in this paper realizes the extraction of the element content of the Miao costume patterns through image segmentation of Miao costume patterns which can be used to build the Miao costume pattern database in this way thus helping designers relevant researchers and organizations to provide research foundation and completing the protection and inheritance of the Miao costume culture. The paper also provides some reference for the segmentation research of other minority costume patterns. © 2022 Authors. All rights reserved.  相似文献   

6.
The original set of the physical standards currently in effect is sealed and depositedin a vault at the USDA in Memphis or Washington,D.C.Copies of these,known as pra-ctical forms,are prepared and sold by USDA.In addition,guide boxes containing sixsamples are prepared and sold.The utmost care is taken to keep the range of color,leaf,and preparation in all copies of each standard,as nearly the same as possible.The color of cotton deepens with age—more in the high grades than in the low gradesand more in Tinged and Spotted grades than in the Gray grades.The color of the cottonin the standards stored or used under different conditions may differ considerably as time  相似文献   

7.
朱玲敏贺阳 《丝绸》2022,(12):164-172
Jāmi' al-Tawārīkh is a detailed history book of Mongolia compiled by the prime minister Rashid al-Din under an order issued by Ghazan Khan in 700 of the Islamic calendar (1310 - 1311 A. D.). After the book was finished the royal family invested a great deal of manpower material and financial resources to draw its illustrated edition which was completed between 1306 A. D. and 1314 A. D. In this period Persian miniatures had strong Mongolian characteristics. The facial shapes of the characters showed the image characteristics of Mongolians and the clothing styles and patterns on the clothes also had the characteristics of Mongolian and even traditional Chinese costumes. Among them Jāmi' al-Tawārīkh in the National Library of France was drawn between 1425 A. D. and 1430 A. D. There are 15 Persian miniatures in the book that illustrate the Gu Gu crowns worn by aristocratic women of Mongolia which were the headgear favored by women of the ethnic group at that time and were very popular. The Gu Gu crowns in the illustrations are rich in color and clear in structure which provide precious and detailed historical image data for us to study the shape and manufacture characteristics of Gu Gu crowns in the Mongolian and Yuan Dynasties. Through reading the pictures we can learn the color pattern shape structure collocation wearing effect and identity of the wearers wearing occasions and other practical problems of the Gu Gu crowns. Combined with the ancient documents and images we can further study and analyze the specific shape and system of the Gu Gu crowns in the Mongol Yuan period the characteristics of wearing and the related cultural connotation behind them. Firstly the 15 illustrated wearing scenes were classified and the wearing characteristics of Gu Gu crowns in different scenes were summarized to find out their regularity. Secondly the characteristics of wearing the Gu Gu crowns in different scenes were compared and the different meanings they represent were analyzed and studied. Finally we concluded the shape characteristics and decorative effect of Gu Gu crowns in the Mongol Yuan period and summarized the cultural implication and national belief represented by Gu Gu crowns as well as the fundamental reason why they were favored by Mongolian women for their enduring popularity. On this basis the correspondence analysis method was used to study the relationship between the formative characteristics occasion of wearing cultural connotation and the identity status and belief of the users. We concluded that the characteristics of the Gu Gu crowns in the illustrations of Jāmi' al-Tawārīkh collected in the National Library of France except for only wearing the hood and crown cape in keeping vigil beside the coffin changed little with the wearing occasions. The shape of the bionic swan showed totem worship the structure features of the square above and the circle below explained the significance of the combination of men and women. It reflects that Mongolians believe in the "Mongke Tengri" Eternal Heaven and the modeling concept based on nature is beyond nature. The structure of being square at the top and circular at the bottom explains the significance of the combination of men and women. The length of crown feathers the number of the ball feathers the hood color and the cape length change showed that the usefulness of Gu Gu crowns was replaced by decoration becoming a symbol of status. In the middle and late period the gold cross pattern appeared frequently in the crown decoration highlighting the identity of many noble women as disciples of Nestorianism. As a whole Gu Gu crowns elongated the human body lines in a towering and beautiful shape making people appear tall and in line with aesthetic characteristics. The luxurious decorative details highlighted the rich and leisure life of aristocratic women and their noble social rank and status in the Yuan Dynasty. The original symbolism took a back seat to the decorative function. This edition of Jāmi ' al-Tawārīkh provides precious image information for the study of the shape and symbolic significance of aristocratic women's headgear in the Mongol (Yuan) period. Through systematic studying and sorting out the structure shape material pattern production technology etc. it can better inherit Chinese traditional costume culture and inherit the traditional costume skills of China. The research results can provide inspiration and innovative ideas for the design and innovation of Chinese national costumes. Under the trend of global integration the exchange of clothing culture among different countries is increasingly close. It is a shortcut for Chinese fashion to go to the world to retain and integrate the characteristics of national clothing. © 2022 Authors. All rights reserved.  相似文献   

8.
Since Korea-Japan annexation in 1910, Japan has promoted the migration and/or tourism into colonial Chosun (old Korea) as an efficient cultural strategy for extending imperialism into Korean peninsula. In many tour guide books, the gisaeng (Korean female entertainers) was not only a symbol of Chosun tradition, but a main icon of Chosun tourism. The high class Korean-styled restaurants (yorijoem) were established as tourist attraction for Japanese inlanders, with singing and dancing gisaengs, ondol (Korean heating floor) house and Korean authentic cuisine, etc. The aim of this paper is firstly to explore the existential change of gisaengs in the yorijoem through its spatial significance in the 1930s, and secondly to explore the identity of Seoul local food culture and its metamorphosis under the colonial modernity.  相似文献   

9.
Staple length defined officially.——Staple length of cotton is defined in the originalorder promulgating staple standards as follows:The length of staple of any cotton shall be the normal length by measurement,with-out regard to quality or value,of a typical portion of its fibers under a relative humidityof the atmosphere of 65 percent and a temperature of 70 Fahrenheit.Staple length an important quality factor.——Staple length is one of the most im-portant factors of cotton quality because both fiber fineness and fiber tensile strength areassociated with staple length in the principal varieties of cotton now in commercial pro-  相似文献   

10.
The first International Printing Technology Exhibition of China(Guangdong)is held from 10~(th)-14~(th)April 2007.The abbreviation of the name of this exhibition is PRINT CHINA. The first PRINT CHINA attracts not only large quantity of printing and packaging equipment and material suppliers home and abroad to participate in the show,but also enormous num- bers of domestic and overseas visitors to attend the show.  相似文献   

11.
驳折领的造型要素有底领、翻领、领外口轮廓线、叠门宽、翻折始点、驳点等,各造型要素相互联系,相互牵制,共同影响驳折领的造型,其中翻领松度是驳折领结构设计中最重要的参数之一。为此,以日本文化式女装原型为基础,采用不同翻领宽和底领宽,通过直接作图法绘制驳折领。在人体模台上选择不同叠门宽、有无领外口明线及不同驳点后,采用剪开展开法确定合适的翻领松度,取下样品量取并记录翻领松度的数值,共制做样品200个,运用SPSS统计软件进行相关分析、回归分析等,建立驳折领翻领松度结构设计的数学模型,为服装专业技术人员提供驳折领制版参考,满足智能服装CAD打版的需要。  相似文献   

12.
女式正装外套是目前女装高级定制的主要品类之一,基于着装场合要求,一般风格庄重、造型合体、款式简洁。局部的创意性设计可为女式正装增添新意,连身型翻驳领以领型为设计点,保留常规翻驳领的主要外观特征,结合叠裥设计将衣身与驳领融为一体,使领型呈现出特有的效果。为实现驳头与衣身的连续结构,在常规翻驳领结构的基础上,研究相关纸样设计原理,明确设计思路,以戗驳领为例,详细说明连身型翻驳领的纸样设计方法,并列举了同类领型的拓展款式及其纸样,以期为翻驳领的创新设计提供参考,为版型设计人员提供借鉴。  相似文献   

13.
通过选取直上尺寸、总领宽、横开领、直开领4个自变量为研究连翻领侧颈点造型的影响因素,经正交实验法选取实验试样,量取侧颈点处领面宽、领座高、角度,以及后中领座高的数据,运用统计方法分析得到数据,建立自变量和因变量之间的线性关系,以解决该点的结构设计问题。  相似文献   

14.
刘博  丛洪莲 《纺织学报》2020,41(4):129-134
为实现休闲西服的一次成形编织,以日本岛精公司四针床电脑横机为依托,对四针床全成形西服的成形规律进行研究。根据全成形西服与普通毛衫版型的区别,选取衣身、领型为研究对象,对其工艺设计方法和成形原理进行分析。结果表明:从裁剪式西服到全成形西服转换过程中,可采用矩形滑移变换的方法进行工艺转化;衣身采用局部编织可形成弧形下摆,采用收放针可形成分割线;衣领中翻领采用边编织边移针的连身立领编织方法与后领窝衔接,驳头超过门襟中心线的区域采用矩形滑移方法变换至内部;局部前、后片不同形状的区域在保持前、后针床线圈编织平衡的前提下,通过不等长编织和不等宽编织可实现精确尺寸调整。  相似文献   

15.
朱庆艳  杨亚瑞  柯舒文  曹原 《染整技术》2021,43(1):37-40,44
翻驳领由翻领和驳领两部分组成.翻驳领的造型变化需要遵循其内在规律,旨在表现程式之美.影响翻驳领造型的因素很多,在结构上翻折松量值、倒伏量、驳口线斜率、领座高度和翻领宽度的差值等均影响外观质量.引入CLO3D数字化设计系统对西装驳领结构的整体美观度、驳领平整度、翻领圆顺度、翻领内口贴合度和翻领外口贴合度进行评价,并结合客...  相似文献   

16.
本文从翻领的结构变化规律进行研究,得出翻领结构的影响要素翻领松度。阐述通过对翻领的结构进行优化处理,使成品领型更加符合人体颈部特征,达到款式和造型的完美统一。  相似文献   

17.
周悦 《丝绸》2012,(1):45-47
对人体颈部形状进行研究,寻找颈部与衣领的关系,将颈部与衣领结构紧密结合。通过对颈部测量,以纸样展开的方法,得出无领、立领、翻驳领等的结构原理,并对不同领型进行拓展设计,使衣领设计与颈部造型达到完美统一。  相似文献   

18.
刘锋 《中国制衣》2012,(5):52-53,47
作为服装的一个重要组成部分,各式各样的领型极大地丰富了服装的款式。众多的领型,按照领片覆盖的区域不同分为三类:只环绕覆盖颈部的称为"立领":部分环绕颈部,部分覆盖衣身的称为"翻领";只覆盖衣身的称为"平领"。实际应用中,所占比例最大的是翻领。本期《技术讨论》栏目为您带来"翻领结构原理分析及应用"。  相似文献   

19.
西装翻驳领倒伏量的确定方法   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1       下载免费PDF全文
李哲 《纺织学报》2008,29(7):83-86
翻驳领的设计主要在于倒伏量的确定。在了解西装翻驳领结构设计的基础上,运用多变量分析法研究倒伏量的确定方法。首先通过实验确定最合适的领松量,在领松量固定的前提下,对于翻折止点位置、翻领宽与领座高之差、叠门宽这3个要素,使用CAD系统分别绘制不同数据的领子,得到不同倒伏量的值。然后运用SPSS统计软件分析得到的数据,推导出领子倒伏量的数学模型,使倒伏量的确定有了科学的方法,解决由于倒伏量大小不当而引起的领子不合体、不美观的问题。  相似文献   

20.
以人体颈部形态和衬衫领基本结构为基础,从人体工学的角度分析男、女颈部形态对衬衫领结构设计因素的影响,通过立裁实验研究不同翻领宽和领座高条件下的衬衫领下落量和领面后中心缩进量以及其相互关系,为实际平面版型结构设计提供立体依据。  相似文献   

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