纱线合股数对3种组织织物保形性的影响

研究纱线合股数和织物组织对织物保形性能的影响。采用细度相同的9.6 tex单纱和4.8 tex×2、3.2 tex×3和2.4 tex×4股线,以相同经纬密分别制织成平纹、二上二下方平、二上二下左斜纹组织的织物。测试了各织物的折皱回复性,采用人工主观评价和客观评价方法评价了织物平整度。结果表明:随着纱线合股数的增加,织物的折皱回复性变差,平纹双股线织物折皱回复性最好,方平织物中单纱和双股线织物折皱回复性相近,斜纹单纱织物的折皱回复性好于其他织物;平纹和方平单纱织物的平整度等级高于股线织物,纱线合股数对斜纹织物的平整度无明显影响;织物组织结构交织点少、浮线长,结构越松散,其保形性越好。认为:纱线合股数和织物组织对织物保形性具有一定影响。     

二维三轴编织扁带及其织物的力学性能分析

采用二维三轴编织扁带替代合股纱线制备增强用织物,并通过试验的方法研究二维三轴编织扁带及其织物的力学性能。结果表明:组织结构对扁带织物拉伸断裂强力有很大影响,平纹扁带织物的拉伸断裂强力最大,斜纹和缎纹扁带织物的拉伸断裂强力较小;不同编织结构的二维三轴编织扁带的纤维强力利用率均大于0.800,而合股纱线的纤维强力利用率均小于0.800,故相较于合股纱线增强用织物,扁带织物的拉伸断裂强力明显提高。     

酒店床上用品织物耐洗影响因素的探讨

通过实验分析了原料、纱线粗细、单纱与股线、精梳与普梳、织物密度和织物组织结构等因素对酒店床上用品耐洗程度的影响,实验结果表明,股线织物拉伸断裂强力和撕裂强力明显高于同类的单纱织物;含有少量涤纶原料的涤棉混纺产品耐用性明显高于同类的纯棉产品;缎条组织产品的撕裂强力明显高于同类的平纹组织产品;织物密度对比实验表明,密度值达到一定数值后再增大时强力反而下降.     

Tencel与Model织物力学性能的比较

分别对天丝、莫代尔的平纹织物和斜纹织物进行力学性能测试,结果表明：天丝织物的拉伸断裂强度和撕裂强力优于莫代尔织物,但是耐磨性能不如莫代尔织物;对于同种纤维的织物．平纹织物的拉伸断裂性能、耐磨性能优于斜纹织物,而斜纹织物的撕裂强力却优于平纹织物。     

结构参数对尼丝纺织物性能的影响

探讨了织物组织、纱线细度、织物紧度对尼丝纺织物的透湿性、抗紫外线性和折皱回复性的影响。结果表明,缎纹组织的尼丝纺织物的透气性、抗紫外线性和折皱回复性好于斜纹和平纹组织的织物;随着纱线细度的增大,尼丝纺织物的抗紫外线性和折皱回复性越好,透湿性越差;随着织物紧度的增加,尼丝纺织物的透湿性先变好后变差,抗紫外线性变好,折皱回复性变差。     

组织结构对织物耐久性和使用性能的影响

通过对7种不同基本组织及其变化组织织物的性能评价,包括抗拉强度、伸长率、撕裂强度、耐磨性和折皱回复性能的评价,研究了不同织物组织结构与织物性能之间的关系。结果表明,交织指数较高的组织,如平纹及其变化组织的织物具有较好的拉伸性能,交织指数较低的组织,如缎纹、人字形斜纹织物具有较高的撕裂强度。聚酯织物具有较好的耐用性和使用性能。     

几种不同组织结构的衬衫面料保形性研究

根据常见的衬衫面料组织结构,使用JC9.7 tex纱线设计了6种不同组织结构的面料,研究不同组织结构对织物保形性的影响。对面料的保形性(尺寸稳定性、抗折皱性、外观平整度、抗起毛起球性、顶破性、悬垂性)及舒适性(透气、透湿性)进行了测试。结果表明:组织结构对织物的折皱回复角、外观平整度等级、顶破强力、透湿量与透气率有直接影响;织物紧度太大、太小都不利于织物的折皱回复,相同紧度下斜纹组织的抗皱性比平纹好;6种组织结构中2/2斜纹组织抗折皱性最好,2/2方平组织的顶破强力、抗起毛起球等级最高,2/2破斜纹透气、透湿性最好,2/2斜纹组织具有良好的保形性。     

麂皮绒主要物理性能的灰色关联分析

针对7种不同规格的麂皮绒织物,测试其断裂强力和伸长、顶破强力、耐磨性、悬垂性、折皱回复性等性能指标,分析结构参数对其性能的影响;通过灰色关联分析,得出麂皮绒的结构参数与织物拉伸强力、耐磨性、悬垂性、抗折皱回复性的灰色关联序,为新型麂皮绒织物的设计和开发提供参考。     

棉及棉麻混纺织物的服用性能研究

以纯棉纱、黄麻/棉混纺纱为原料,采用相同的上机工艺参数,分别试织了纯棉及两种配比的黄麻/棉混纺织物,对3种织物进行了吸放湿性能、芯吸效果、拉伸性能、透气效果、悬垂性、折皱回复性及织物风格等方面的测试与比较。研究结果表明:用18texJ30/C70纱制织的织物的拉伸断裂强力及撕破强力与棉织物基本接近,两种棉麻混纺织物相对纯棉织物均具有更为优良的吸湿性能、芯吸性能及透气性能,弯曲刚度大于纯棉织物,而折皱回复性及织物悬垂性差于纯棉织物。     

织物组织及芯丝含量对织物性能的影响

探讨织物组织及芯丝含量对织物保形性及舒适性的影响。采用JC 18.5 tex纱、JC 18.5 tex(T4004.44 tex)包芯纱和JC 18.5 tex(T400 5.56 tex)包芯纱,以平纹与二上二下左斜纹设计织造了8种织物;对8种织物的5项保形性指标和3项舒适性指标进行了测试。结果表明:在相同的织物规格下,二上二下左斜纹织物的抗皱性、悬垂性比平纹织物的好,且T400芯丝含量越高,织物折皱回复性、悬垂性越好,免烫等级越高;二上二下左斜纹织物的透气性比平纹的好。认为:为了改善织物的舒适度,使用T400包芯纱开发衬衫面料时,宜采用二上二下左斜纹组织。     

聚酯长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能

为研究聚酯(PET)长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能,利用PET长丝与纯棉纱开发了3种线密度为9.8 tex的纱线,并以二上二下斜纹组织织造了4种织物。对织物进行了折皱回复性、免烫性、尺寸稳定性、悬垂性等保形性能,强伸性、拉伸弹性、顶破性等抗变形性测试,以及手感风格、透湿性、透气性等服用性能测试。对比分析了纯棉纱织物与复合纱织物的保形性与服用性能。结果表明:PET长丝/棉复合纱可改善纯棉织物的折皱回复性、悬垂性,提高免烫等级,同时又不影响织物的服用性能;包芯纱织物比包缠纱织物有更好的保形性,更高的免烫等级,是免烫衬衫面料的理想选择。     

用Dref 3摩擦纺多组分纬纱织造的织物的风格特征

研究分析了3种用Dref3摩擦纺多组分纬纱织造的平纹织物的风格特征。3种不同的纬纱是：芯皮均为粘纤;水溶性PVA作皮,粘胶无捻纱条作芯;PVA无捻纱条作芯,粘纤作皮。3种纱均在Dref3型摩擦纺机上按芯皮50／50比例纺成,经纱统一采用2合股纯棉纱线。将3种纱分别织成织物,然后用热水将PVA溶解去除。织物性能的测定结果：织物性能与组成织物的纱组分性能并不一致。无捻芯纱(溶掉PVA表皮)织物具有较高的拉伸强力、撕裂强力、折皱回复性和耐磨性;而空心纱(溶掉PVA作芯)织物具有丰满、蓬松的结构和良好的耐压缩性能。     

棉/不锈钢长丝机织物的电磁屏蔽及折皱回复性能

为研究组织结构与磨损对织物屏蔽性能的影响,以及不锈钢长丝对织物折皱回复性的影响,使用自制的棉/不锈钢长丝包芯纱织制了3种不同组织的机织物,测试了织物在0.3~1 500 MHz频段上的电磁屏蔽性能,并使用平磨仪对各织物分别摩擦60、120、180、240 及300次后,测试了织物磨损后的电磁屏蔽性能;同时,采用视频序列法测试了织物的动态折皱回复角。结果表明：织物组织结构对电磁屏蔽性能有一定影响,平纹组织结构紧密,屏蔽效果好;经过若干次磨损后,织物的电磁屏蔽性能先小幅升高后逐渐降低;相同磨损条件下,试样耐磨性越好,屏蔽效能的降低幅度越小;由于不锈钢长丝的加入使织物的折皱回复性降低,可以采用浮长更长的组织改善织物起皱现象。     

纺纱方式对织物抗皱性能及拉伸弹性的影响

为开发天然抗皱免烫衬衫面料,探讨纺纱方式对拉伸弹性及抗皱性的影响,用聚酯(PET)长丝与纯棉纱通过全聚纺、全聚纺包芯、全聚赛络纺包芯、全聚赛络纺双丝包芯、全聚纺包芯合股5种纺纱方式,开发了5种线密度为14.8 tex的纱线,并织造了相同规格的5种织物,对织物的抗皱性、尺寸稳定性、刚柔性、拉伸变形性等进行测试与分析。 结果表明:纤维的急弹性变形比例、初始模量越大,织物的弹性及折皱回复性越好;纱线的毛羽少、表面光洁、条干均匀、初始模量大,则织物抗皱性好;全聚赛络纺包芯纱、全聚纺包芯双合股纱的抗皱性、尺寸稳定性、拉伸弹性回复性均较好,织物的外观平整度均为3.5级;全聚赛络纺包芯纱比全聚纺包芯纱双合股纱生产流程短,成本低,更适合用于开发高保形免烫衬衫面料。     

Elastic Recovery and Performance of Denim Fabric Prepared by Cotton/Lycra Core Spun Yarns

ABSTRACT

Elastic performance coefficient (EPC) and recovery behavior of denim fabrics prepared with cotton/lycra core spun stretch yarns have been presented in this article. The denim fabrics are woven as broken twill weaves in an air-jet weaving machine by the insertion of core spun yarns (lycra filament in core, cotton fiber on sheath) as weft and using 100% cotton yarns as warp. The effect of linear density and stretch percentage of the core spun weft yarns on tensile and recovery behavior of denim fabric have been investigated by employing full factorial design of experiments. It has been observed that the tensile strength and EPC of fabric increase with decrease in linear density and stretch percentage of the core spun stretch yarn. The immediate elastic recovery and delayed elastic recovery increase with decrease in linear density and stretch percentage of the yarns.     

Inspecting anisotropy in wrinkle recovery angle of woven fabric

In this paper, the anisotropic wrinkle recovery properties of plain and twill fabrics are explored by studying the variations of the wrinkle recovery angle with sample orientation angle. Orientation angle is the angle measured counterclockwise from the weft direction to the sample’s long axis, that is, the crease direction. This study focused on inspecting anisotropy in wrinkle recovery to find more effective test angles for different woven fabrics. A dynamic wrinkle recovery tester was used to measure the recovery angles of specimens automatically which were cut in various directions. The trend of plain fabrics shows that its recovery angle generally increases at first and then decreases with the increase in the orientation angle. The trend of twill fabrics differs in folding ways. The experimental results revealed that the wrinkle recovery angles of the woven fabrics had the lowest values near the orientation angles of 0° and 90°, i.e. the warp and weft directions, and therefore these two traditionally used directions in the standard test method did not best reflect the wrinkle recovery yielded from both warps and wefts. The diagonal direction (45°) was proven to be the optimal orientation angle for a balanced plain fabric, while the two orthogonal directions, i.e. the twill direction and its perpendicular direction, were found to be more relevant for a twill fabric. Optimal orientation angles used to test the wrinkle recovery angle of a woven fabric should be associated with its structure.     

Investigation of electrical,electromagnetic shielding,and usage properties of woven fabrics made from different hybrid yarns containing stainless steel wires

This paper reports the results of a detailed study about specific properties of hybrid yarns and woven fabrics containing those yarns. For this aim, the fabrication procedures and physical properties of acrylic/stainless steel (SS) and cotton/acrylic/SS ply yarns were presented, and then, relations between those and electrical, electromagnetic shielding effectiveness (EMSE) and some usage properties of woven hybrid fabrics made from those with different constructions were investigated. EMSE of plain and twill fabrics were evaluated against radiating electromagnetic wave spectrum over a frequency 0–3000?MHz. A comparison of physical properties of yarns regarding wire diameter and the use properties of fabrics regarding weave type, wire diameter, and yarn type measured were presented. The functional textile products of complex applications can be achieved with low cost, easily since those yarns and fabrics were produced on conventional textile manufacturing machines with small modifications. The present study indicated that use of SS wire-based yarns in fabrics significantly increased the air permeability, pilling resistance, thermal resistance, and the flexural rigidity of hybrid fabrics. The plain weave fabrics exhibited higher EMSE values over 20?dB in higher frequencies and higher thermal absorbtivity values compared to twill fabrics.     

仿针织牛仔面料的开发及性能评价

为获得兼具针织和机织牛仔面料优点的新型牛仔面料,从纱线的选择、织造、后整理等方面探讨了仿针织牛仔面料的开发。对比测试了仿针织牛仔面料、针织牛仔面料、纯棉机织牛仔面料等5 种面料的拉伸断裂强力、撕破强力、色牢度等指标,并利用川端织物风格评价系统对牛仔面料的拉伸、剪切、弯曲、压缩、表面摩擦5 项指标进 行织物风格综合分析。结果表明,采用精梳纯棉纱作为经纱,涤纶长丝氨纶包芯纱作为纬纱,选择复合右斜纹组织,经特殊后整理工艺后生产的仿针织牛仔面料经向拉伸断裂强力高达685 N,撕破强力达59 N,粗犷挺括,柔软舒适,弹性和保型性俱佳,克服了针织牛仔面料和机织牛仔面料的风格缺陷。