An Analysis of the Present and Future Position of Commission Finishing

The development of the textile finishing industry during this century is traced, with particular reference to commission finishing. New factors affecting the future of commission finishing are discussed, and an attempt is made to define the probable future balance between horizontal and vertical organisation. Those commission-finishing units which continue to operate as a purely service medium to converters are at greatest risk. The chief operators in a ‘commission’ sense will be the vertical organisations. Particularly with industrial textiles, different patterns may develop, but these will essentially be based on the finisher being directly involved in the production and marketing of the final products.     

Flame-retardant Finishing of Textiles

The need for flame-retardant finishing of textiles is examined in the context of the hazards of textile flammability, associated legislation and procedures for assessing textile burning behaviour. The functions of flame-retardant finishes and durable finishes developed specifically for cellulose, wool and man-made fibres are described in depth. Multipurpose finishes for both cellulose and wool textiles in which flame retardancy is only one property conferred on the textile are examined. Fibre blends present a particular problem and special attention is paid to discussing those finishes applied to polyester/cotton blended fabrics. The laundering behaviour and consequent finish durability are reviewed. In addition, the effects that applying flame-retardant finishes have on textile properties and performance are considered. Recent developments in methods used to apply flame-retardant finishes are outlined.     

Characterisation of novel regenerated cellulosic,viscose, and cotton fibres and the dyeing properties of fabrics

There is a global demand for constant increase in the production of textile fibres. Currently, the market for cellulosic fibres is dominated by cotton and viscose fibres. However, new alternative cellulosic fibres are being sought to meet the growing demand. The dyeing properties of novel fibres aiming at the marketplace are among the properties that determine their applicability to textiles. Recently, a novel process for producing cellulosic fibres, the Biocelsol process, has been scaled up so that the spinning of yarn from Biocelsol fibres is now possible. In this study, the reactive dye Levafix CA Blue was applied to cellulosic fabrics made from viscose, cotton, and Biocelsol yarns. The crystalline structure and morphology of the fibres were studied by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and field‐emission scanning electron microscopy. The crystalline structure and morphology of the Biocelsol fibres resembled those of viscose fibres, but, owing to higher water absorption, the Biocelsol fabric had a higher dye exhaustion. The colour yield of the Biocelsol fabric was 62% and 41% higher than that of cotton and viscose fabrics respectively, suggesting that less dye is needed to gain a shade in Biocelsol fabric than in viscose and cotton fabrics.     

Market development: challenge to dyeing and finishing

This paper reviews market developments in the 1990s and the challenges that these present to chemical pretreatment, dyeing, printing, and chemical and mechanical finishing. The globalisation of textiles and the driving forces for change are discussed in relation to fibre developments, quality with quick response, the philosophy of right-first-time processing and energy costs. A major challenge to all textile wet processing is posed by the problems generated by environmental issues and many of the current developments in this field are described. A detailed study is presented of the likely effects of market development in the specific areas of chemical pretreatment, dyeing, printing, and chemical and mechanical finishing, together with the challenges and changes that they will create. Some current and future paths to progress through research and development are discussed that will influence the evolution of chemical technology and revolutionise wet-processing treatments up to the year 2000.     

Synthesis and characterization of waterborne polyurethane containing UV absorption group for finishing of cotton fabrics

To improve the ultraviolet resistance and color fastness of the cotton fabrics, a new multifunctional finishing agent of waterborne polyurethane containing UV absorption group (WPUUV) was synthesized and characterized with ¹HNMR and UV spectroscopy. Stability of WPUUV and their finishing performance on cotton fabrics were investigated. Results showed that the various color fastnesses such as the dry and wet rubbing fastnesses, wrinkle recovery angle and softness of the dyeing cotton fabrics were obviously improved by WPUUV, which provided good UV protection function for dyeing cotton fabrics as well.     

Analysis of the evolution of production of hydrated cellulose textile fibres

In summing up the observations given below on the future of new cellulose fibres, including comparing them with natural fibres (cotton), some generalizations can be made: The constant increase in the demand for cellulose-based textile fibres is not only due to the tendency toward a higher standard for clothing and satisfaction of the needs of the growing population, but also to the specific features of the properties of cellulose fibres (natural and man-made), especially hygroscopicity and hygiene: in this respect, the new fibres for linen clothing are significantly better than synthetic fibres, second to the latter only in fabrics for water-repelllent clothing; an analysis of the possibilities of solving the problem of the increasing demand for cellulose fibres by expanding production of cotton and increasing production of man-made cellulose fibres leads to the following conclusions: the increase in areas planted with cotton could be slowed by an increase in the demand for fields for grains and the limited possibilities of restoring previous catastrophically destroyed sources of irrigation water; while preserving or expanding production of cotton, primarily by increasing productivity, it is necessary to significantly increase production of man-made fibres; for this reason, the main restriction which had previously not permitted adding new HC fibre enterprises primarily produced by the viscose process, which does not meet current ecological requirements, has been removed; for this reason, the advances in spinning of cellulose fibres from solutions in direct solvents (primarily MMO) make this method fundamental in solving the problem of satisfying the demand for cellulose fibres; in using the new method of manufacturing HC fibres, one of the serious conditions for increasing total production of chemical fibres should also be considered; this does not eliminate the need for progress in the synthetic fibre field, although with respect to some physical, particularly strength, properties, MMO fibres can partially take on the function of textile materials which synthetic, basically polyester, fibres currently fulfill; some properties of the new fibres, in particular, their capacity for surface fibrilation, require improvement, but although this is difficult, it is nevertheless a totally solvable problem. The questions discussed in the present article require further elaboration and more precise definition, but they undoubtedly constitute an important part of the overall prognosis for production and correspondingly scientific studies of fibres.Translated from Khimicheskie Volokna, No. 3, pp 17–19, May–June. 1996.     

Dyeing of cotton with the natural dye extracted from waste leaves of green tea (Camellia sinensis var. assamica)

Due to an increase in the production of green tea, the amount of leaf waste has increased enormously, causing serious environmental problems. With regard to environmental awareness, the possibility of reusing the waste leaves of green tea as a low‐cost and abundantly available source of natural dye for dyeing cotton fibres was investigated. Natural dye powder from the waste leaves of green tea (NDPT) was successfully applied to dye cotton fibres without mordant by batch experiments. NDPT was obtained as a dark brown powder with a yield of 2.7 ± 0.5% w/w from dried waste leaves of green tea. The optimal conditions for dyeing NDPT onto cotton fibres were: pH of dye solution, 3; material to liquor ratio, 100:1; dyeing time, 180 min; concentration of dye solution, 3.0 mg/ml; and dyeing temperature, 100 °C. The colour of cotton fibres dyed with NDPT was observed to be dark brown. The adsorption data of NDPT on cotton fibres was best fitted with a Langmuir adsorption isotherm model with a correlation coefficient (R²) of 0.997. It is clear that there is a strong possibility of reusing the waste leaves of green tea as a low‐cost and abundantly available source of natural dye for dyeing cotton fibres.     

Oleochemical surfactants and lubricants in the textile industry

This paper reviews the published literature on the uses of oleochemical surfactants and lubricants in the textile industry with a dual emphasis on textile technology and effects that oleochemicals can have on that technology. Oleochemical derivatives are used in the textile industry as surfactants, emulsifiers, wetting agents, antistatic agents, softeners, antimicrobial agents, water and oil repellents, antisoil agents, lubricants, cohesive agents and dyeing assistants. The relationship between the amount of fatty acid derivatives consumed in textile operations and global fiber production is discussed. Small amounts of oleochemicals acting at interfaces are invaluable in their effects on textiles. Oleochemical surfactant chemical and physical properties of importance in textile operations are described, and the relationships between certain properties of oleochemicals and their performance on textile fibers are reviewed. The basic principles and technology of spin finishes and textile processing aids are discussed. The effects of oleochemical surfactants in dyeing and as finishing agents for textile fibers are described briefly. The conclusion presents the prognosis for the future of oleochemicals in the textile industry.     

Dyeing of Blends of Wool and Man-made Fibres

The blending of wool with man-made fibres is described generally. It is shown how the results of dyeing wool-man-made-fibre blends are controlled by physical properties such as wet tensile modulus; it is also indicated how a wide range of coloured effects can be obtained with different man-made fibres. The dyeing of blends containing wool is considered first from the point of view of the circulation of dye liquor through a mass of fibre and then of the relative dye absorption by the blend components. The relationship between tensile modulus and behaviour in wet processing is illustrated by laboratory work on the measurement of rate of flow through a mass of loose fibre. It is concluded that the dyeing of loose fibres in blend form could be a practical proposition and in some cases could result in over-all economies in processing. The relative dye absorption by fibres in blends is discussed in detail and fibres are classified according to their substantivity for acid or for direct dyes. One group consists of regenerated-protein, polyamide, and elastomeric fibres, a second group of viscose rayon fibres, and a third, larger, group of hydrophobic fibres, e.g. acetate, polyester, and acrylic fibres. The cross-staining of wool by dyes intended for the man-made fibre is considered, with particular reference to blends of acetate and wool; the effect of dyebath conditions, e.g. pH and temperature, is referred to and methods are outlined for minimising staining. Some three-fibre blends are then briefly considered. Finally, possible future developments, with particular reference to blends, are discussed.     

Cetylpyridinium chloride cationic finishing improves the dyeing and antibacterial properties of madder dyed cotton

In this work, after cationic pretreatment of cotton fabric with cetylpyridinium chloride (CPC), the compound of citric acid (CA) and succinic acid (SUA) were used as crosslinking agents to dye cotton fabrics with natural madder dye to improve the dyeing and antibacterial properties and realise the multifunctional finishing of cotton fabric. The effects of mordant dyeing, CA + SUA crosslinked dyeing, and CPC/CA + SUA crosslinked dyeing on the microstructure and properties of cotton fabrics were compared. The dyeing by the three processes occurred primarily in the amorphous zone of the fibres, and all kept the original crystalline form of the cotton. CA + SUA crosslinked dyeing and CPC/CA + SUA crosslinked dyeing increased the thermal stability of the cotton fabric. CPC/CA + SUA crosslinked dyed cotton obtained excellent dyeing results with the colour depth value (K/S) of 12.3 and rubbing fastness and washing fastness of levels 4–5, and the levelness and dye permeability were acceptable. Furthermore, the antibacterial rate against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus reached 99.99%, and the ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) reached 50+. Moreover, the wrinkle recovery angle (WRA) increased by 55% compared with raw cotton. This showed that CPC/CA + SUA crosslinked dyed cotton had excellent antibacterial, anti-ultraviolet, and anti-wrinkle performances.     

Developments in the Dyeing of Man-made Fibres

The ways in which methods of dyeing different types of man-made fibres have developed are discussed. Particular attention is paid to the main synthetic-polymer fibres—nylon, acrylic and polyester fibres. Future developments in dyeing are discussed critically, with emphasis on the dyeing of fibre blends, the design of dyeing and other wet-processing machinery, instrumentation and automatic control, solvent processing, and mass pigmentation.     

Effect of Chitosan on the Efficiency of Dyeing Textiles with Active Dyes

It was shown that incorporation of chitosan in the dye bath in dyeing textiles made from cotton fibres with active dyes increases the intensity and strength characteristics of the color. The optimum concentrations of chitosan and other dye bath reagents that maximally increase the color intensity are determined.     

Application of D‐optimal design in the analysis and modelling of dyeing of plasma‐treated wool with three natural dyes

Both the dyeing and finishing of textiles with natural compounds are gaining increasing attention because of various environmental and health problems associated with the use of synthetic reagents. In this study, wool fibres were dyed with three natural dyes, namely, Arnebia euchroma, cotton pods and harmal seeds. Alum was used as the mordant, and samples were mordanted by the premordanting method. Oxygen plasma was employed for the surface modification of wool. Plasma treatment time, alum concentration, dyebath temperature and pH were selected as the process variables, and their effects on the K/S of the dyed samples were analysed using D‐optimal design. The surface topography, morphology and chemistry of the wool fibres after plasma treatment were studied by atomic force microscopy (AFM), scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and Fourier Transform–infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), respectively. FTIR confirmed the creation of new oxygen‐containing groups on the surface of wool fibres after plasma treatment. SEM and AFM images confirmed the surface etching and increase in the roughness of plasma‐treated fibres. Increasing the dyebath pH and temperature increased the K/S of the dyed samples. Increasing the amount of alum mordant increased the K/S of samples dyed with cotton pods but decreased the K/S of samples dyed with A. euchroma and harmal seeds. Increasing the plasma treatment time improved the K/S of samples dyed with A. euchroma and cotton pods but had no significant effect on the K/S of samples dyed with harmal seeds.     

Modification of polypropylene fibres with cationic polypropylene dispersion for improved dyeability

Polypropylene (PP) fibres are important hydrophobic fibres which are used in the production of functional textiles such as sports textiles. The absence of functional groups and low polarity make PP fibres difficult to dye, thus mass coloration during fibre extrusion is the major technique applied today. However, the disadvantage of mass coloration is the low flexibility and the demand to produce high volumes. A new method to modify the surface of PP fibres utilises the deposition and thermal fixation of cationic PP dispersion. Through padding and thermal fixation of a cationic PP dispersion, dyeable 100% PP fibres can be obtained. The effects of fixation temperature, and of the amount of dispersion used on the modified fibres were studied using Fourier Transform‐infrared spectroscopy, laser scanning microscopy, dyeing experiments with CI Acid Red 151, and by determining selected fastness properties. The results indicate the potential of this new method to produce surface‐modified 100% PP fibres, which can be dyed in conventional acid‐dyeing processes and therefore used in fibre blends, for example in combination with wool.     

The Dyeing and Finishing of Circular-knitted Cotton and Cotton Blends

This paper reviews the major recent developments in the field of dyeing and finishing of knitted fabrics and the market and economic forces which have influenced them. These are identified as the fast growing demand for leisure and sports wear, with cotton and cotton blends finding major consumer preference, and the rapid escalation in costs for energy; water, effluent treatment and oil-based dyes and chemicals.     

台湾化学纤维工业概况

介绍了台湾化学纤维工业的发展背景，纺织纤维的需求变化，纺织品进出口贸易结构和发展情况，以及台湾化学纤维产能变化、产销结构、外销市场和化纤原料供需状况，化纤工业发展中的问题及相应措施。预测台湾化纤工业继续保持发展的势头，近年内仍能保持世界首三名的地位。     

环保型印染化学品发展及应用的几点思考

印染用化学品(包括印染用染料、各类表面活性剂等)在印染工业中起着重要作用。随着人们消费观念的不断改变和人们环保意识的提高,人们对环境要求也越来越高,这些都为印染用化学品提出了更高的要求。印染用化学品及染整技术的发展是各类染料、浆料、助剂和各类表面活性剂朝着高效、低耗、操作安全、质量符合要求、具有良好的重现性、对环境无害、最终的纺织品符合环保要求的方向发展。     

The Real Cost to Industry of Fabric Faults

Using an annual turnover figure for the U.K. dyeing and finishing industry of £150 million, the author shows how the industry may be wasting up to £71/2 million per year through faults arising during processing. All dyers must examine their processing routes to attempt to make savings in this respect. One approach is to modernise the equipment used, making greater use of instrumentation and automation.     

Care-labelling of Textiles

The paper covers: (1) early attempts at care-labelling and their limitations; (2) current objectives of care-labelling for international use; (3) present position of care-labelling. The relative merits of existing systems throughout the world in relation to textiles, detergent products, domestic appliances and also the implications for ‘coin-op’ and commercial laundering and dry cleaning; (4) implications of care-labelling to the dyeing and finishing industry.     

基于生态友好纺织品的染整创新技术

从发展生态友好纺织品及如何应对绿色壁垒的角度,分析了纺织品上需避免的常见有害物质的类型,介绍了近年来生态友好染整新技术的开发及实际应用情况,提出了应有的发展战略。