An alternative natural dye,almond shell waste: effects of plasma and mordants on dyeing properties

In this study, the effect of the plasma process and the possibility of replacing metallic mordants with plasma treatment were investigated in natural dyeing with almond shell waste as a novel natural colorant. The use of a smaller amount of metallic mordants and plant than most of the current natural dye applications is a major advantage of dyeing with almond shell extract. Plasma‐treated and untreated wool fabrics were dyed without mordant and using a smaller amount (0.2 g/l) of alum, iron(ii ) sulfate and copper(ii ) sulfate. Three mordanting methods, namely premordanting, simultaneous mordanting and post‐mordanting, were applied. Colour measurements and light and wash fastness values were compared. Significant colour differences were observed among the mordanting methods. Simultaneous mordanting resulted in the lightest colours with all the mordants. Generally, post‐mordanting produced duller colours and lower a* and b* values than premordanting. The plasma process generated significant colour value differences and colour yield increases, giving more homogeneous dyeing visually, and also ensured a greater impact of mordanting. However, compared with metallic mordants, plasma itself did not create completely different colour shades and fastness improvement. It was necessary to use mordants in order to achieve increased fastness properties (especially light fastness) and a different colour gamut.     

A method for dyeing cotton fabric with anthocyanin dyes extracted from mulberry (Morus rubra) fruits

For the first time, the natural anthocyanin dyes (mainly consisting of cyanidine 3‐glycoside) extracted from mulberry (Morus rubra) fruits has been successfully used to dye cotton fabric, with a dyeing property performance good enough for potential commercial applications. In this study, succinic acid was firstly incorporated into cotton fabrics by esterification to the hydroxyl groups of cellulose, forming an anionic site for the dyes. The performance of the modified material was characterised by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and tensile strength. Results showed that the tensile strength of cotton fabrics was mostly retained after modification. The anthocyanin extracts from mulberry fruits were used to study the dyeability of the control and modified cotton fabrics. Red and deep purple (aubergine) are two main shades of cotton fabrics dyed with mulberry fruit extracts. Most importantly, aubergine shade is rare in cotton fabrics dyed with natural dyes. Modification with succinic acid clearly increased the colour strength of the dyed cotton fabric. The colour strength of dyed cotton fabric was improved from 2.7 to 5.3 in the case of dyeing without mordants, and from 3.2 to 6.9 in the case of dyeing with tin mordanting. Meanwhile, the colour fastness was improved by 0.5–2 grades with increasing succinic acid concentration in the finish solution. The colour fastness to perspiration, crocking, light, and washing of fabric dyed with simultaneous tin mordanting and modified with 30 g l^?1 of succinic acid was found to be acceptable, with a grey scale grade of at least 3. As for home laundering, neutral soapy solution was more acceptable than alkaline soapy solution.     

Application of rare earth as mordant for the dyeing of ramie fabrics with natural dyes

Selecting appropriate metallic compounds as mordants is essential for dyeing with natural dyes. This paper presents the application of rare earth compounds as mordant for the dyeing of ramie fabrics with four kinds of natural dyes. The influences of pre-mordanting, simultaneous mordanting, and post-mordanting on the dyeing effect were explored. The post-mordanting was proved to give rise to the highest dye uptake. The effects of dyeing conditions including dyeing temperature and time, dyeing bath pH and the concentration of rare earth on the dye uptake were investigated systematically. The fabrics dyed with natural dyes in presence of rare earth as mordant exhibited high color shade stability in the baths with pH varying from being acidic to neutral and alkaline. Employing rare earth as mordant apparently raised the color fastness to washing, rubbing and light of the ramie fabrics dyed with the natural extracts. In comparison with the commonly used metallic salts, using rare earth chlorides as mordants can greatly reduce the ionic concentration employed in natural dyeing. This study proved that rare earth would be a kind or promising environmentally friendly mordant in natural dyeing.     

Colour and fastness of natural dyes: revival of traditional dyeing techniques

Cotton and wool fabrics were dyed with nine natural dyes obtained by aqueous extraction of the original plants/insect in an attempt to reconstruct traditional textile dyeing recipes, to optimise the methodology at all stages, i.e. extraction, mordanting and dyeing, and to standardise it. Cochineal, madder, alkanna, henna, brazilwood, red sandalwood, safflower, indigo and logwood were used for the dyeings, which were carried out directly and after mordanting of the textile material. A variety of mordants, namely, aluminium potassium sulphate, potassium dichromate, copper sulphate, zinc chloride, iron(iii ) chloride, iron(ii ) sulphate and tin chloride, is anticipated to meet both early and recent requirements and options. The dyeings were evaluated through colour measurements and standard wash, light and rub fastness tests. Generally, the mordanting process known for many centuries and connected with the textile dyeing resulted in an improvement in dye absorption and fastness properties mainly for the cotton samples, as is concluded from the tests and measurement assessments.     

Dyeing properties of textiles by Turkish hazelnut (Corylus colurna): leaves,coat, shell and dice

Turkey has a great number of hazelnut trees that possess nutritious components. However, only the inside part of the hazelnut is used as a nutrient, while the rest of it is waste. This study suggests that the waste parts of the Turkish hazelnut could be used as a natural dye for dyeing textile fabrics. The dyeing properties of the leaves, coat, shell and dice of the hazelnut were studied on wool, cotton and viscose fabric by using three different mordants: copper sulphate, iron sulphate and aluminium sulphate. The selected dyed fibre sample surfaces were observed using a scanning electron microscope. The colour strength (K/S), light, washing, rubbing, and perspiration fastness levels of the dyed fabrics were investigated. The experimental natural dyeing results indicate that waste hazelnut‐based products can be used as a natural dye for textile coloration.     

The effect of mordant salts on antibacterial activity of wool fabric dyed with pomegranate and walnut shell extracts

Natural dyes have attracted increasing worldwide attention because of the carcinogenicity and environmental effects of synthetic dyes. In this study, wool fabric was treated with tannin‐rich extracts of Punica granatum peel and walnut shell in combination with some mordants. The effect of various mordants on the colorimetric and antibacterial properties of wool fabrics was investigated. The results showed that pretreatment with metallic mordants substantially improved the dyeing and fastness properties of wool fabrics. The extracts of Punica granatum peel and walnut shell showed a significant antibacterial activity at 5% concentration. In addition, antibacterial activity was dramatically enhanced using metallic salts. The antibacterial activity of samples dyed with natural dyes and without any mordant was not good, while the mordanted samples with copper, aluminum and tin salts obtained considerable antimicrobial properties following lightening and washing fastness. The extracts of Punica granatum peel and walnut shell can be considered as viable alternatives instead of artificial antibacterial agents for hospital textiles as well as an effective anti‐odour agent for sports and household textiles.     

Extraction of natural dyes from Alpinia blepharocalyx K. Schum. for dyeing of silk fabric

Natural dyes were extracted from the leaves and stems of Alpinia blepharocalyx K. Schum. Analysis of the designed experiment revealed that extraction at a plant/water ratio of 1:20 could reach an optimal production of natural dyes when extraction was performed at 80 °C, for 4 h, under 20 min ultrasound, in the presence of 10 g/l sodium hydroxide, and with two extractions. The extracted natural dyes were applied to the dyeing of silk fabrics using different methods, including or excluding a mordant. It was found that mordants had a significant effect on the colour of dyed silk fabrics. The silk fabric dyed with the pre‐mordant method using potassium aluminium sulphate as a mordant showed a bright yellow with a higher colour strength. The optimal dyeing conditions were reached when the extracted natural dyes were pre‐mordanted with 10 g/l potassium aluminium sulphate at pH 6, and for a 20 min dyeing time.     

Reactive dyeing of silk using commercial acid dyes based on a three‐component Mannich‐type reaction

Acid dyes are employed for commercially dyeing silk, which results in ionic bonds between the silk fibroin and the dye. This generally leads to low wet fastness properties for dyed silk fabrics. In this work, three commercial acid dyes with aromatic primary amine structures were selected to dye silk using a Mannich‐type reaction, resulting in improved wet fastness of dyed silk by forming covalent bonds between silk fibroin and dye. The Mannich‐type reactive dyeing was applied to silk fabrics at both 30 and 90°C in trials. Dyeing at 90°C can shorten the dyeing time compared with dyeing at 30°C, even although dye exhaustion and relative fixation at 90°C were a little lower. The dyeing process was optimised when the dyeing temperature was 90°C, dyebath pH 4, dye‐to‐formaldehyde ratio 1:30 and holding dyeing time 60 minutes. The results showed that the dye exhaustion on silk fabrics for the three aromatic primary amine‐containing acid dyes exceeded 94% and their relative fixation was over 80%. Their washing and rubbing fastness reached grade 4 or higher. Hence, the colour fastness properties of dyed silk fabrics using the Mannich‐type reactive dyeing method is superior to the conventional acid dyeing method using the same aromatic primary amine‐containing acid dyes. The Mannich‐type reactive dyeing for silk fabrics at 90°C can be developed into a novel and rapid reactive dyeing method, promising an effective dyeing process with excellent colour fastness.     

Topping of naturally dyed wool fabrics with different natural dye sources

Wool fabrics can be dyed with synthetic dyes and even with natural dyes. To present a different aspect to the coloration of wool, the current study was focused on a topping process (ie, the dyeing of wool that was already dyed) with different natural dye sources. For this purpose, the fabrics that were already dyed with a natural dye source were once again dyed with two different natural dyes. In bottom dyeing (bottoming), fabrics were dyed with hops (Humulus lupulus L.) in the presence of different mordanting agents. Then the dyed, washed and dried samples were once again dyed (topping) with two different natural dye sources. For topping, powdered madder and acorn were tested in direct dyeing of wool samples. Finally, the colour changes were analysed with the use of a spectrophotometer. The study demonstrates that such a process (ie, bottoming with hops in the presence of different mordanting agents and then topping with madder or acorn) can be a way of obtaining different shades and colours with sufficient/good fastness values by natural dyeing.     

Metal mordanting in dyeing with natural colourants

Metal mordanting, or the application of metal salts, is a common method of improving the light fastness in dyeing with natural colourants. This review presents the results from a survey of the literature on metal mordanting to assess what levels of correlation exist between mordant‐induced effects (changes in colour and colour depth) and the changes in light fastness, what is known about the mechanisms of mordant‐induced improvements of light fastness, and how the salt levels used in coloration processes compare with the limits on metal levels in wastewater and on the dyed substrates. No strong interrelationships are found between the mordant‐induced effects and light fastness improvements. Knowledge about mechanisms of mordant effect on light fastness appears, in large part, to be derived from empirical correlations. However, as light fastness is affected by a multitude of factors, the correlations do not always hold true. It is found that residual metal contents in spent dye/mordanting liquors are generally not reported. However, with rough calculations, it is estimated that, with even the lowest reported salt concentrations, the metal contents in spent liquors exceed environmental release limits. The metal contents on dyed substrates are also not generally reported, but similar estimations show that the contents of heavy metal on dyed substrates (when copper and chromium salts are used as mordants) also exceed limits. On the basis of these observations, the authors make suggestions for elements to be included in investigations on furthering the use of natural colourants in textile dyeing.     

A route from olive oil production to natural dyeing: valorisation of prina (crude olive cake) as a novel dye source

An attempt has been made to valorise an agroindustrial solid waste in natural textile dyeing as a novel dye source. The dyeing and fastness properties of prina (crude olive cake/pomace) extract were evaluated to fill the gap in this field. This very cheap biomass was utilised (80 g/l) by applying chemical solvent‐free aqueous extraction to dye wool fabric with only small amounts (0.2, 0.4, 0.8, and 1.6 g/l) of metallic mordants, namely alum, iron(II) sulfate, copper(II) sulfate, stannous chloride, and potassium dichromate, and avoiding the use of alkali, acid, chemicals, and auxiliaries in dyeing and washing processes. Colour shades of beige, cream, sandy, apricot, straw, cumin, mustard, olive, and khaki were obtained. Significant differences in colour strength and CIELab coordinates were observed, depending on mordant type and mordanting method. Copper(II) sulfate and iron(II) sulfate ensured the most significant colour changes and nuances, the darkest colours, and the best light fastness values. Prina extract itself (without mordant) has a light fastness of 3 (fair) and excellent wash fastness of 4–5, both for colour change and bleeding. Irrespective of the concentration and mordanting method, alum, stannous chloride, and potassium dichromate did not generate a light fastness improvement compared with the control sample. Although good light and wash fastness values have been achieved without mordants, it is necessary to use them to widen the colour gamut and to obtain increased colour strength.     

Oxygen plasma pretreatment improves dyeing and antimicrobial properties of wool fabric dyed with natural extract from pomegranate peel

This paper presents the application of conventional potassium aluminium sulphate wool mordanting and a biochemical method with silver nitrate (as antimicrobial agent and mordant)_, alone and in combination with oxygen plasma, as part of comprehensive research into pretreatment processes for wool dyeing with natural extract from pomegranate peel (Punica granatum L.). Pretreatment with oxygen plasma significantly improved the hydrophilicity and tensile strength of all tested samples and showed that oxygen plasma can improve K/S, washing fastness, and even replace certain mordants in wool dyeing with natural pomegranate dye. All dyed samples exhibited good antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus, which can be contributed to the phenol content in pomegranate dye. Only after 28 days of intensive ageing in natural weathering conditions did K/S and antibacterial activity against Klebsiella pneumoniae slightly decrease in dyed samples pretreated with oxygen plasma.     

Pomegranate fallen leaves as a source of natural dye for mordant-free dyeing of wool

The application of metal mordants is usually necessary in dyeing of wool with natural dyes to improve the dye exhaustion and fastness properties. The majority of metal salts generally used as mordants are considered as toxic and it is important to find replacements for them. Plant sources with high content of tannins are good candidates as bio-mordant or colourant to overcome this drawback. In this study, the waste fallen leaves of pomegranate tree were used as a source of natural dye for the eco-friendly dyeing of wool fabric without the use of metal mordants. The dyeing process variables including dye concentration, dyebath pH, and temperature were optimised using response surface methodology to obtain the highest colour strength. The colour strength was increased by increasing the natural dye powder up to 100%owf while the optimum pH and dyebath temperature were 4 and 100°C, respectively. The sample dyed under the optimal condition exhibited good fastness properties against washing and light. This study approved the potential of Punica granatum fallen leaves for the dyeing of wool without any mordant, while high fastness properties were obtained.     

Colorimetric and fastness studies and analysis by reversed‐phase high‐performance liquid chromatography with diode‐array detection of the dyeing of silk fabric with natural dye Helichrysum arenarium

In this study, silk fabric samples were dyed by various procedures using Helichrysum arenarium extracts. Alum, ferrous sulfate, stanium chloride, calcium nitrate, and potassium bitartrate were used as mordants. Reversed‐phase high‐performance liquid chromatography with diode‐array detection was utilised for identification of the dyes present in the dyed silk fabrics and the plant extracts. The extraction of dyes was carried out with a hydrochloric acid/methanol/water (2:1:1 v/v/v) mixture. The colour coordinates and K/S values, as well as wash, light, and rub fastness, were determined.     

Evaluation of antimicrobial and dyeing properties of walnut (Juglans regia L.) green husk extract for cosmetics

Walnut green husk is one of the main waste products from walnut and could be used as a source of natural dyeing compounds such as juglone. The present study was conducted to evaluate the effective use of walnut green husk extract as a natural hair dye. Dyeing properties, fastness and antimicrobial behaviours of dyed hair and also a skin irritation test for natural hair dye on rat skin were examined. When the extract was mixed with ascorbic acid as a developer, ferrous sulphate as a mordant, and Aloe vera extract used as a secondary mordant and also a cosmetic ingredient, the reaction resulted in a dark‐brown colour on hair samples. The dyed hair exhibited appropriate colour strength having excellent morphology for a hair surface coated with dye molecules. In addition, the dyed hair possessed good resistance to washing and daylight fastness, without any irritant properties as shown in a rat model, although high concentrations of iron‐based mordant may be problematic for long‐term usage. This paper also suggests the use of natural mordants such as lactic and oxalic acids to avoid any probable risks. Walnut green husk extract was an appropriate natural hair dyeing agent in practice and showed maximum antimicrobial activity compared with semi‐synthetic and commercial hair dyes. The results demonstrated that walnut green husk can be used as an economical, valuable, eco‐friendly and safe source of dyeing and antimicrobial agents for cosmetic products.     

Eco‐friendly pretreatment of silk fabric for dyeing with Delonix regia extract

The flowers of Delonix regia have been evaluated for the natural dyeing of silk using a biomordant and enzymes. This is an eco‐friendly textile pretreatment that does not utilise metal mordanting. The aqueous extract obtained from the dried red flowers was used for the dyeing of silk fabrics. A bright reddish‐brown hue colour was observed when 30% owf Delonix extract was used on the pretreated silk material. The silk fabric was treated with either an enzyme or biomordant. The resulting dyed fabric showed resistance to fading. Finally, all dyed specimens were tested for wash and light fastness properties, making Delonix a viable alternative to synthetic red dyes. Through desorption studies, the order of reactivity of enzymes towards dye uptake in the one‐step process was found to be lipase > diasterase > protease–amylase = Pyrus(biomordant). For the two‐step process, the order of reactivity of enzymes was found to be protease–amylase > lipase > Pyrus (biomordant) > diasterase. Overall, it can be concluded that, treatments, the two‐step process was better in terms of larger colour yield values, fastness properties and both dye adherence ability.     

Isolation of colour components from flowers of Tabebuia argentea: kinetic and adsorption studies on silk yarn

The colour components from the flowers of Tabebuia argentea have been isolated and characterised as rutin and epigallocatechin gallate using spectral techniques. Adsorption kinetic and thermodynamic studies of these colour components on silk yarn have been investigated. It is noted that the adsorption is an endothermic process. The dyeing studies have been carried out at pH 4. The mordanting studies revealed that the post‐mordanting technique could only increase the dye performance marginally. The fastness properties of the dyed silk were determined. The adsorption isotherm studies showed that the Langmuir model fitted the experimental data very well with a high regression coefficient.     

Dyeing,fastness, and deodorizing properties of cotton,silk, and wool fabrics dyed with coffee sludge (Coffea arabica L.) extract

A natural colorant was extracted from Coffea arabica L., using water as extractant at 90°C for 90 min. Studies have been made on the dyeing, color fastness, and deodorization properties of cotton, silk, and wool fabrics dyed with Coffea arabica L. extract solutions. The best mordants were found to be FeSO_4, CuSO₄, and SnSO₄ for improving the color strength (K/S) of cotton, silk, and wool fabrics. Mordants MnSO₄, ZnSO₄, and NiSO₄ for cotton (Rating 3), and all mordants except MnSO₄ for silk (Rating 3), mordants CuSO₄, FeSO₄, CoSO₄, Al₂(SO₄)₃, and MnSO₄ for wool (Rating 4) were the best mordants to improve the light fastness. It was found that FeSO₄ and CuSO₄ were the best mordants for the improvements of color strength (K/S) and light fastness for silk and wool fabrics. In addition, it was found that cotton, silk, and wool fabrics dyed with the Coffea arabica L. extract showed good deodorization performance. © 2006 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci 103: 251–257, 2007     

Dyeing and deodorizing properties of cotton,silk, wool fabrics dyed with Amur Corktree,Dryopteris crassirhizoma,Chrysanthemum boreale,Artemisia extracts

This study used four kinds of natural colorant solutions extracted from Amur Corktree, Dryopteris crassirhizoma, Chrysanthemum boreale, Artemisia using water at 90°C for 90 min with a liquor ratio (solid natural colorant material/solvent water, weight ratio) of 1/10. The dyeing, color fastness, deodorizing properties of cotton, silk, wool fabrics dyed with natural colorant extracts were compared. These properties were found to be significantly dependent on the extract concentration, colorant structure, fabric type. Color fastness (light, water, perspiration fastness) ranged between second and fifth grades and deodorizing performance of fabrics dyed with various natural colorant extracts between 34 and 99%. It is worth noting that the use of natural colorants notably enhanced the deodorizing performance. Wool fabrics showed the highest performance increase at 98–99%, followed by silk and cotton. © 2009 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci, 2010     

玫瑰红色素对羊毛和蚕丝的媒染性能

以FeSO4和ZnSO4·7H2O为媒染剂,采用玫瑰红提取液对羊毛和蚕丝进行染色,探讨了媒染温度、时间、媒染剂用量、玫瑰红提取液用量对媒染性能的影响,以及染色织物的牢度。结果表明,媒染剂FeSO4和ZnSO4·7H2O用量为2g／L、提取液用量为10mL、羊毛和蚕丝织物均为2g时,染色织物具有较深的色泽和良好的色牢度。