面膜衣的设计开发

提出了一种能不受时间地点限制让肌肤享受沐浴般滋养的新型服装——面膜衣,介绍了面膜衣的概念,并对面膜衣的理论基础,产品开发的定位和方向进行了分析探讨。     

Novel cosmetic delivery systems: an application update

World consumers are nowadays more focused on their health and appearance. This trend is creating heightened demand for products formulated with natural and nutraceutical ingredients. Functional ingredients and innovative delivery systems are driving the new product development in the field of cosmetics. A significant number of innovative formulations are now being used in personal care with real consumer-perceivable benefits and optimized sensory attributes, resulting in an economic uplift of cosmetic industry. In fact, the U.S. market alone for novel cosmetic delivery systems has been projected to be more than $41 billion for the year 2007. Novel cosmetic delivery systems reviewed here possess enormous potential as next-generation smarter carrier systems.     

神经酰胺对皮肤生理作用及其在化妆品中应用

神经酰胺在皮肤角质层中主要作用包括：保湿作用、屏障作用、抗衰老作用和美白作用,这些作用使其成为化妆品重要生物添加剂。该文介绍神经酰胺在化妆品中应用进展,并展望其在化妆品中发展前景。     

The performance of a medico-cosmetic consultation unit

The facial skin of almost 500 women was measured by low pressure indentometry and surface pH-metry. The women's skin was also classified by visual observation by a well-trained cosmetician. Agreement between indentometry and cosmetic definition was found to be well correlated, except in the group of young women with dry skin. In this group, we believe, indentometry more accurately describes skin status. A significant relationship was found between high skin pH (>5.9) and lack of elasticity in the older age group with dry skin. It is hypothesized that high skin surface pH below the age of 70 is an expression of accelerated ageing process, and further, that chronic, high pH treatment of the skin leads to accelerated loss of skin elasticity. L'évaluation objective de l'état cosmétique de la peau en milieu medical La peau du visage de près de 500 femmes a été examinée par indentométrie, basse pression et par pH métrie superficielle. Les types de peau ont également été classés visuellement par un cosméticien entraîne. On a trouvé une bonne corrélation entre la définition cosmétique et les résultats de l'indentométrie sauf pour un groupe composé de jeunes femmes à peau sèche. Nous pensons que pour ce groupe ce sont les résultats de l'indentométrie qui permettent la meilleure appréciation de l'état de la peau. Dans un groupe de personnes plus âgées à peau sèche on a trouvé une relation significative entre des valeurs élevées du pH de la peau (pH > 5.9) et son manque d'élasticité. On a émis l'hypothèse que des valeurs élevées du pH cutané chez des sujets de moins de 70 ans constituaient une manifestation de vieillissement précoce et par tant que le traitement régulier avec les produits de pH élevé pouvait conduire à une perte d'elasticité plus rapide de la peau.     

In vitro skin permeation and retention of parabens from cosmetic formulations

Parabens are antimicrobial agents widely used in foods, cosmetics and pharmaceutical products. Although non-mutagenic, non-teratogenic and non-carcinogenic, parabens can induce allergic contact dermatitis and posses estrogenic activity. The aim of this work was to assess the skin permeation and retention of methyl- (MP), ethyl- (EP) and propyl- (PP) paraben from three commercial cosmetic creams. The results obtained indicate that parabens are capable of permeating through and accumulating in the skin. The extent of penetration depends more on paraben characteristics (solubility, lipophilicity) than on the composition of the formulation. In particular, the percentage permeated across the skin was independent of the composition of the cream used and decreased in the order MP, EP and PP, in accordance with decreasing solubility. After 8 h of contact with the skin, 60% of MP, 40% of EP and 20% of PP were found across the skin. Concerning skin retention, the percentage remaining in the skin after 8 h depends on both paraben characteristics and on the composition of the formulation used. In conclusion, it appears that only the type of paraben, in particular its water solubility, affects skin penetration whereas the composition of the emulsion, which influences skin retention, plays a secondary role. Finally, excised rabbit ear skin can be considered as a good model for human skin for in vitro experiments.     

Transdermal delivery of two antioxidants from different cosmetic formulations

The efficacy of any cosmetic product containing a functional ingredient is determined by the skin delivery of the active molecule, which is influenced by the type of the vehicle and the molecule itself. This study was designed to compare the percutaneous absorption habits of the antioxidants carcinine and lipoic acid out of various formulations by means of the porcine skin model. Initial evaluation of the in vitro porcine skin model has demonstrated its feasibility for various substances and formulations [1, 2]. Increasing legal requirements for risk assessment in the cosmetic industry have led to the development of this alternative test method. The penetration properties are determined by the OECD Guideline TG 428: Skin Absorption: in vitro Method [3, 4], which allows the use of porcine skin for penetration studies. Porcine skin is used because of its similarity to human skin in terms of its morphology and the essential permeation characteristics [5]. The mass balances for each tested formulation type of the antioxidants show individual penetration behaviours with significant differences. The presented data plainly demonstrate that the lipophilic lipoic acid has a distinct higher penetration potential than the hydrophilic carcinine. The chosen vehicle can enhance or reduce the transdermal delivery of both tested antioxidants. Modern effective cosmetic formulations will work only, if the active ingredients penetrate into the epidermis. In conclusion, the correct selection of a suitable formulation plays an important role during product development.     

Role of proteins in cosmetics

The review critically evaluates the safety and effectiveness of proteins or peptides in cosmetic formulations designed for skin and hair care. Special attention is paid to soluble collagen and the use of this fibrillar protein in combination with detergents.
The authors indicate various misconceptions on the mechanism of the effect of collagen and possible risks if the formulations containing collagen are not used on intact skin. Besides the moisturizing effect of collagen on the stratum corneum, the formation of a protective layer on the surface of the skin or hair, and the formation of complexes with detergents and the mechanisms of the effectiveness of this protein are considered.
Le role des proteines dans les cosmetiques     

Biologically active peptides: from a laboratory bench curiosity to a functional skin care product

Small, biologically active peptides (short sequences of amino acids) were first described about 40 years ago: TRH, angiotensin, vasopressin, oxytocin, bradykinin. Since then, many more peptides have been isolated from mammalian tissue and organs, and their activity investigated. Essentially, these molecules play a hormonal (messenger) role: released at one point in the body, they act at specific receptor sites at different locations in the organism. Mostly the peptides are transported from the site of release to the site of biological activity through the blood or lymphatic fluid. The use of these molecules in cosmetics does not appear obvious, as the topical application of these highly soluble, fragile and extremely expensive molecules seems inappropriate, and systemic effects (blood transport) are not desired. This paper shows that the obstacles to using highly specific, powerful peptides as 'actives' in cosmetic products can be overcome. Cosmetically interesting activities such as stimulation of collagen synthesis, chemotaxis, anti-stinging effects and others, can be observed and substantiated with chemically modified peptide sequences. Long chain fatty acid conjugates improve skin penetration, specific activity and economic feasibility of these molecules.     

Low-level efficacy of cosmetic preservatives

Preservation using combinations of preservatives has several advantages. This study shows that the concentration of some of the most frequently used allergenic preservatives can be markedly lowered when they are combined with phenoxyethanol. The antimicrobial efficacy of cosmetic preservatives and known allergens of various potency [diazolidinyl urea, methylchloroisothiazolinone/methylisothiazolinone (MCI/MI), methylisothiazolinone (MI) and phenoxyethanol] was tested alone and in various combinations of two or three preservatives together. The preservatives were tested for minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) values and possible synergy using fractional inhibitory concentration. MCI/MI was the only preservative showing low‐level MIC against all four tested microorganisms: Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans and Aspergillus niger. Different combinations of the preservatives indicated additive effects against the microorganisms. No combination of preservatives showed any inhibitory action on each other. Challenge tests with different concentrations and combinations were performed in a cosmetic cream. Diazolidinyl urea and MCI/MI alone were ineffective against C. albicans in a challenge test at concentrations up to 16 times higher than the observed MIC values. When combining phenoxyethanol with either one of the allergenic preservatives diazolidinyl urea, MCI/MI or MI, the cosmetic cream was adequately preserved at concentrations well below the preservatives’ MIC values as well as 10–20 times below the maximum permitted concentrations. By using combinations of preservatives, effective preservation can be achieved with lower concentrations of allergenic preservatives.     

La microscopie confocale: interet pour l'analyse du relief cutané. Un outil d'évaluation dermo-cosmétique

Nowadays, the determination of human skin microtopography is usually carried out by methods based on mechanical techniques (profilometry and surfometry), or founded on optical conception (shadowing method and profilometry). Negative skin replicas made of a silicone rubber material (Silflo((R))) or positive casts performed from an epoxy resin (Araldite((R))), are used to assess the skin microstructure. Skin surface microtopography is quantified by measuring furrows depths and spaces between them. An original application using confocal scanning laser microscope (CLSM) is described in this paper. The CLSM gives simultaneously images of the skin surface associated with quantitative measurements of the microtopography. With this apparatus, it is easy to achieve perfect skin replica images with assessment of its microstructure, before and after applications of topical medicines or cosmetic products to evaluate the skin surface restoration. It is worth to mention that it is indispensable to analyse the same skin surface (same plateaux and same furrows). For this reason, it is necessary to localize exactly and to replicate the same skin surface area (4 mm(2)) before and after the cosmetic use, whatever the extended period of the topical application.     

In vitro skin permeation of sunscreen agents from O/W emulsions

The effects of different emulsifiers on the in vitro permeation through human skin of two sunscreen agents [octylmethoxycinnamate (OMC) and butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (BMBM)] were investigated from O/W emulsions. The test formulations were prepared using the same oil and aqueous phase ingredients and the following emulsifier and coemulsifier systems: Emulgade SE((R)) (ceteareth-12 and ceteareth-20 and cetearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate) and glycerylmonostearate (emulsion 1); Brij 72((R)) (steareth-2), Brij 721((R)) (steareth-21) and cetearyl alcohol (emulsion 2); Phytocream((R)) (potassium palmitoyl-hydrolysed wheat protein and glyceryl stearate and cetearyl alcohol) and glycerylmonostearate (emulsion 3); Montanov 68((R)) (cetearyl glucoside and cetearyl alcohol) (emulsion 4); Xalifin-15((R)) (C(15-20) acid PEG-8 ester) and cetearyl alcohol (emulsion 5). The cumulative amount of OMC that permeated in vitro through human skin after 22 h from the formulations being tested decreased in the order 3 > 1 congruent with 4 > 5 > 2 and was about nine-fold higher from emulsion 3 compared with that from emulsion 2. As regards BMBM, no significant difference was observed as regards its skin permeation from emulsions 1, 3, 4 and 5, whereas formulation 2 allowed significantly lower amounts of BMBM to permeate the skin. In vitro release experiments of OMC and BMBM from emulsions 1-6 through cellulose acetate membranes showed that only emulsions 4 and 5 provided pseudo-first-order release rates only for OMC. The results of this study suggest that the type of emulsifying systems used to prepare an O/W emulsion may strongly affect sunscreen skin permeation from these formulations. Therefore, the vehicle effects should be carefully considered in the formulation of sunscreen products.