Feature based 3D garment design through 2D sketches

This paper presents a new approach for intuitively modeling a three-dimensional (3D) garment around a 3D human model by two-dimensional (2D) sketches input. Our approach is feature based—every human model has pre-defined features, and the constructed garments are related to the features on human models. Firstly, a feature template for creating a customized 3D garment is defined according to the features on a human model; secondly, the profiles of the 3D garment are specified through 2D sketches; finally, a smooth mesh surface interpolating the specified profiles is constructed by a modified variational subdivision scheme. The resulting mesh surface can be cut and flattened into 2D patterns to be manufactured. Our approach provides a 3D design tool to create garment patterns directly in the 3D space through 2D strokes, which is a characteristic not available in other computer aided garment design systems. The constructed garment patterns are related to the features on a human model, so the patterns can be regenerated automatically when creating the same style of garment for other human models. Our technique can greatly improve the efficiency and the quality of pattern making in the garment industry.     

Interactive 3D garment design with constrained contour curves and style curves

This paper presents interactive techniques to design 3D garments conveniently and precisely with constrained contour curves and style curves. Contour curves, including silhouette curves and cross section curves, are used for garment surface modeling. Style curves, including seam lines, dart lines, notch lines and grain lines, are introduced for designing patterns on the triangular garment surfaces. Contour curves are extracted automatically from the boundaries of garment sub-meshes. The definitions and resolving rules of various constraints are introduced for editing the contour curves conveniently. Style curves are generated by projecting control points onto 3D garment triangular surfaces. In order to draw the style curves validly, some constraints are also introduced according to the craft requirements of pattern design. Furthermore, the effects of style curves in pattern flattening are analyzed, which can guide the designer to draw style curves more reasonably and enhance the pattern design quality. Finally, some examples are given to show that our methods can make the 3D garment design more flexible and friendly, and style curves can be applied into design patterns on 3D triangular surface for shoes, toys and so on.     

A survey on CAD methods in 3D garment design

With the advance in virtual reality applications, garment industry has strived for new developments. This paper reviews state-of-the-art CAD methods in 3D garment design. A large range of techniques are selected and organized into several key modules which form the core of a 3D garment design technology platform. In each module, basic techniques are presented first. Then advanced developments are systematically discussed and commented. The selected key modules - digital human modeling, 3D garment design and modification, numerical integration of draping, 2D pattern generation, geometric details modeling, parallel computation and GPU acceleration - are discussed in turn. Major challenges and solutions that have been addressed over the years are discussed. Finally, some of the ensuing challenges in 3D garment CAD technologies are outlined.     

Differences in wearer response to garments for outdoor activity

The performance of garments for outdoor activity was compared. Three fabrics, each in garments for the upper body, matched garment/wearer dimensions, were worn by 10 athletically ‘well-trained’ males under controlled conditions (hot 32 ± 2°C, 20 ± 2% relative humidity (RH); cold 8 ± 2°C, 40 ± 2% RH) with physical (instrumental) and sensory responses obtained during the trials. Differences in human responses to the fabrics/garments included heart rate, core temperature during run (hot, cold), rest (hot) and walk (cold), heat content of the body, humidity under garments during rest and run and time to onset of sweating. No such differences were identified for change in body mass, core temperature during walk (hot) and rest (cold), skin temperature, temperature of skin covered by the garment, humidity under the garments during walk or for any perceptions (thermal sensations, thermal comfort of torso, exertion, wetness). The garment in single jersey wool fabric performed best in both hot and cold conditions. Effects of garments on wearers are often related to properties of the fabrics from which the garments are made. This study shows that only some differences in fabric properties result in measurable thermophysiological and perceptual responses of the garment wearers and underlines the difficulty in predicting performance of garments/persons from laboratory tests on fabrics.     

基于款式设计的虚拟三维服装真实感效果模拟

介绍了由服装的二维款式设计研究三维款式真实感效果显示的步骤,并对人台参数化建模、服装的变空隙量模型等技术进行实践,提出了一种实现三维着装效果显示方法,为款式设计提供直观帮助.通过二维款式平面图到三维图形的映射得到可控的三维服装,通过精确可靠的三维数据模拟三维款式效果.在三维服装上添加全局纹理映射和多重纹理映射以及褶皱效果,增强服装设计可视化效果.     

适于网络试穿的快速三维服装仿真方法

三维服装仿真技术是虚拟试衣的核心,目前三维服装仿真常用有限元技术来实现,该方法仿真花费的时间较长不能满足网络试衣的要求。提出了一种基于服装裁剪分片技术的三维服装仿真方法,该方法参考服装设计知识将待仿真服装划分为若干衣片,然后用贝塞尔曲面分别模拟这些衣片,最后利用纹理映射技术把服装布料的图案映射到相应的衣片,得到服装三维仿真模型。实验表明利用该方法得到的三维服装模型能够把服装的基本试穿效果展示出来,而且所需的时间很短,可以满足在线试穿的要求。     

Reactive 2D/3D garment pattern design modification

This paper presents a new 3D garment simulation result update algorithm for the 2D garment pattern design modification. The proposed algorithm enables the 3D garment fitting simulation result directly to react to the modification in the 2D patterns. The algorithm performs a topological invariant deformation of the 2D pattern mesh after the boundary of the 2D pattern undergoes a topological consistent modification. The length of each of the edges in the mesh defined as the equilibrium state parameter is updated and then directly used in the 3D garment fitting simulation to update the original simulation result. The advantage of the proposed algorithm is that the mesh topology of the 2D garment pattern is preserved and thus simplifies the numerical scheme by maintaining the consistency of the matrix equation. With this approach, the 3D garment fitting simulation does not need to repeat the entire simulation for every modification and can react to the 2D pattern modification efficiently and speedily.     

A template of ease allowance for garments based on a 3D reverse methodology

Nowadays, with the very competitive environment and the emergence of the mass customization concept, garment design is become a crucial step for clothing companies. Indeed, garments should be designed quickly under controlled costs and perfectly fitted to consumers. No traditional pattern making in 2D matches these new constraints since it requires the production of expensive and time consuming physical prototypes. The study presented in this paper relies on 3D virtual design that lets achieve customized garments. An original image processing method based on ellipses and a reverse methodology using scans of a reference body and garment enables evaluation of the overall 3D ease of the garment. The garment is then designed virtually and the result is checked with a 3D simulation on the reference body.     

Designing Personalized Garments with Body Movement

The standardized sizes used in the garment industry do not cover the range of individual differences in body shape for most people, leading to ill-fitting clothes, high return rates and overproduction. Recent research efforts in both industry and academia, therefore, focus on virtual try-on and on-demand fabrication of individually fitting garments. We propose an interactive design tool for creating custom-fit garments based on 3D body scans of the intended wearer. Our method explicitly incorporates transitions between various body poses to ensure a better fit and freedom of movement. The core of our method focuses on tools to create a 3D garment shape directly on an avatar without an underlying sewing pattern, and on the adjustment of that garment's rest shape while interpolating and moving through the different input poses. We alternate between cloth simulation and rest shape adjustment based on stretch to achieve the final shape of the garment. At any step in the real-time process, we allow for interactive changes to the garment. Once the garment shape is finalized for production, established techniques can be used to parameterize it into a 2D sewing pattern or transform it into a knitting pattern.     

3D virtual apparel design for industrial applications

The integration of physics-based models within CAD systems for garment design leads to highly accurate cloth shape results for virtual prototyping and quality evaluation tasks. To this aim, we present a physics-based system for virtual cloth design and simulation expressly conceived for design purposes. This environment should allow the designer to validate her/his style and design option through the analysis of garment virtual prototypes and simulation results in order to reduce the number and role of physical prototypes. Garment shapes are accurately predicted by including material properties and external interactions through a particle-based cloth model embedded in constrained Newtonian dynamics with collision management, extended to complex-shaped assembled and finished garments. Our model is incorporated within a 3D graphical environment, and includes operators monitoring the whole design process of apparel, e.g. panel sewing, button/dart insertion, multi-layered fabric composition, garment finishings, etc. Applications and case studies are considered, with analysis of CAD modelling phases and simulation results concerning several male and female garments.     

Optimisation of garment design using fuzzy logic and sensory evaluation techniques

The ease allowance is an important criterion in garment design. It is often taken into account in the process of construction of garment patterns. However, the existing pattern generation methods cannot provide a suitable estimation of ease allowance, which is strongly related to wearer's body shapes and movements and used fabrics. They can only produce 2D patterns for fixed standard values of ease allowance. In this paper, we present a new method for optimizing the estimation of ease allowance of a garment using fuzzy logic and sensory evaluation. Based on the optimized values of ease allowance generated from fuzzy models related to different key body positions and different wearer's movements, we obtain an aggregated ease allowance using the OWA operator. This aggregated result can further improve the wearer's fitting perception of a garment and adjust the compromise between the style of garments and the fitting comfort sensation of wearers. The related weights of the OWA operator are determined according to designer's linguistic criteria on comfort and garment style. The effectiveness of our method has been validated in the design of trousers of jean type. It can be also applied for designing other types of garment.     

Computer aided clothing pattern design with 3D editing and pattern alteration

The traditional apparel product development process is a typical iterative ‘optimization’ process that involves trial-and-error. In order to confirm the design and achieve a satisfactory fit, a number of repeated cycles of sample preparation, trial fitting and pattern alteration must be conducted. The process itself is time-consuming, costly, and dependent on the designer’s skills and experience. In this paper, a novel computer aided design (CAD) solution for virtual try-on, fitting evaluation and style editing is proposed to speed up the clothing design process. A series of new techniques from cross parameterization, geometrical and physical integrated deformation, to novel editing methods are proposed. First, a cross parameterization technique is employed to map clothing pattern pieces on a model surface. The pattern can be precisely positioned to form the initial shape with low distortion. Next, a new deformation method called hybrid pop-up is proposed to approximate the virtual try-on shape. This method is an integration of geometrical reconstruction and physical based simulation. In addition, user interactive operations are introduced for style editing and pattern alteration in both 2D and 3D manners. The standard rules regulating pattern editing in the fashion industry can be incorporated in the system, so that the resulting clothing patterns are suitable for everyday production.     

数据驱动的三维服装快速建模

提出一种数据驱动的三维服装快速建模方法,可以从样本中快速生成新的三维服装模型.首先,输入三维服装模型集,通过形状款式分析,对三维服装进行语义分割.其次,将分割后的三维服装部件模型聚类为四大类（上身、下身、袖子、配件）,构成三维服装部件库.然后,以服装部件模型的面积和边界周长比例为几何形状特征,定义度量服装部件重新组合的款式描述算子.最后,对三维服装部件模型聚类后的源模型进行优化,并通过自然拼接输出新的三维服装.实验结果表明,该方法提高了三维服装建模的效率,能较好地满足目前大规模三维服装数量的需求.     

部件化构建的三维服装快速编辑方法

直接设计一个三维服装模型不仅耗时而且需要专业服装设计知识。为简化这一复杂 的建模过程,提出基于部件化构建的三维服装快速编辑方法,其关键在于通过分割和融合的网格 编辑技术从已有的服装模型中快速构建新的三维服装模型。首先按照服装分类分割出不同类型的 服装部件。其次基于分割出的三维服装部件以及已有的服装模型,建立部件间以及部件与模型间 的几何约束关系,把二维均值坐标插值方法应用到三维服装网格融合中,把方程数值求解问题转 化为线性插值问题,避免求解线性方程组。最后根据柔性服装的特征,构造适于柔性服装光滑保 形变换的方法。实验结果表明,该算法在不影响融合效果的前提下可以提高融合的效率,能够有 效地实现三维服装的快速编辑。     

Wearable performance

Wearable computing devices worn on the body provide the potential for digital interaction in the world. A new stage of computing technology at the beginning of the 21st Century links the personal and the pervasive through mobile wearables. The convergence between the miniaturisation of microchips (nanotechnology), intelligent textile or interfacial materials production, advances in biotechnology and the growth of wireless, ubiquitous computing emphasises not only mobility but integration into clothing or the human body. In artistic contexts one expects such integrated wearable devices to have the two-way function of interface instruments (e.g. sensor data acquisition and exchange) worn for particular purposes, either for communication with the environment or various aesthetic and compositional expressions. ‘Wearable performance’ briefly surveys the context for wearables in the performance arts and distinguishes display and performative/interfacial garments. It then focuses on the authors' experiments with ‘design in motion’ and digital performance, examining prototyping at the DAP-Lab which involves transdisciplinary convergences between fashion and dance, interactive system architecture, electronic textiles, wearable technologies and digital animation. The concept of an ‘evolving’ garment design that is materialised (mobilised) in live performance between partners originates from DAP Lab's work with telepresence and distributed media addressing the ‘connective tissues’ and ‘wearabilities’ of projected bodies through a study of shared embodiment and perception/proprioception in the wearer (tactile sensory processing). Such notions of wearability are applied both to the immediate sensory processing on the performer's body and to the processing of the responsive, animate environment.     

Differences in wearer response to garments for outdoor activity

The performance of garments for outdoor activity was compared. Three fabrics, each in garments for the upper body, matched garment/wearer dimensions, were worn by 10 athletically 'well-trained' males under controlled conditions (hot 32 +/- 2 degrees C, 20 +/- 2% relative humidity (RH); cold 8 +/- 2 degrees C, 40 +/- 2% RH) with physical (instrumental) and sensory responses obtained during the trials. Differences in human responses to the fabrics/garments included heart rate, core temperature during run (hot, cold), rest (hot) and walk (cold), heat content of the body, humidity under garments during rest and run and time to onset of sweating. No such differences were identified for change in body mass, core temperature during walk (hot) and rest (cold), skin temperature, temperature of skin covered by the garment, humidity under the garments during walk or for any perceptions (thermal sensations, thermal comfort of torso, exertion, wetness). The garment in single jersey wool fabric performed best in both hot and cold conditions. Effects of garments on wearers are often related to properties of the fabrics from which the garments are made. This study shows that only some differences in fabric properties result in measurable thermophysiological and perceptual responses of the garment wearers and underlines the difficulty in predicting performance of garments/persons from laboratory tests on fabrics.     

Texture evolution: 3D texture synthesis from single 2D growable texture pattern

An efficient model-independent 3D texture synthesis algorithm based on texture growing and texture turbulence is presented to create vivid 3D solid texture from a single 2D growable texture pattern. Given a 2D texture pattern of some growable material, our technique is able to create an anisotropic 3D volumetric texture cube to simulate the evolution of the material in 3D. An effective tiling scheme is designed to save computation and storage costs. Target objects are directly dipped into the synthesized 3D texture volume to generate creative, sculpture-like models that can be visualized with interactive speed. Our method is conceptually intuitive, computationally fast, and storage efficient compared with other solid texturing methods. As opposed to conventional 2D texture mapping work on polygonal surfaces, our approach is capable of decorating 3D point-rendering systems seamlessly. Furthermore, our combination of texture turbulence and texture growing techniques provides an attractive way to synthesize and tile natural 2D texture patterns, or generate simple but interesting motion textures.     

基于Web技术的服装款式图设计系统

针对服装企业款式设计瓶颈现象,利用Web技术开发网络化服装款式图设计系统.该系统采用C/S架构,服务器端建立4层服装款式部件数据库,提供信息服务平台;客户端通过Web技术进行远程数据获取,利用部件自动拼接技术实现服装款式图设计.