A model of seam pucker and its applications Part I: theoretical

Abstract

This article considers a simple model of the lock stitch (301) seam, and uses it to derive a measure of the severity of puckering in the seam. The numerical value of the measure depends on the bending properties of the fabrics and thread in the seam, together with the tensions in the threads. How the latter may be estimated is discussed.     

Investigation of Seam Pucker in Lightweight Synthetic Fabrics as an Aesthetic Property Part II: Model Implementation Using Computer ‘Vision’

This paper reports upon the development of a new measuring procedure for seam pucker which is based on computer ‘vision’. The procedure is objective and is focused on the aesthetic property of the seam assembly. The results are presented in two parts; Part I reported on the development of a cognitive model for the measurement of seam pucker and Part II, described here, explains the model's implementation by using the computer ‘vision’ system.     

Effect of seam angle on seam puckering in lightweight woven fabrics

Displacement puckering is the major cause of seam puckering, while sewing lightweight woven fabrics. In this paper, effect of seam angle (0°–90° to the weft) on the seam puckering has been studied for cotton and polyester fabrics at different stitch lengths. Puckering is estimated by measuring a difference between the thickness of seamed and unseamed fabrics. It is observed that seam puckering decreases and then increases as the seam angle to the weft increases. Seam puckering is the lowest at seam angle of 30° for cotton fabrics and 69?g/m² polyester fabric; at 45° for 88?g/m² polyester fabrics, depending upon the warp and weft yarns covered in the seam and yarn linear densities, which can be represented as effective relative cover. Seam puckering is the lowest at a seam angle, when the effective relative cover is highest.     

Investigation of Seam Pucker in Lightweight Synthetic Fabrics as an Aesthetic Property Part I: A Cognitive Model for the Measurement of Seam Pucker

Seam pucker is an area which is now receiving particular attention especially with the development of microfibre fabrics which are inherently prone to deformations during garment manufacture. Although fabric properties can be related to seam pucker, the aesthetic judgement is still left to subjective assessment which is based upon ranking the stitched fabric samples by judges having compared them with photographic ‘standards’. The shortcomings of this procedure are obvious; judges do not always agree, they need to be trained, the procedure is time consuming and non standardised. This paper reports upon the development of a new measuring procedure which is based on the use of a computer and a camera, ie computer ‘vision’. This procedure is objective and is focused on the aesthetic property of the seam assembly, by ‘modelling’ the cognitive process involved in seam pucker assessment The results are organised in two parts: Part I reports on the development of a cognitive ‘model’ for the measurement of seam pucker and Part II on the model implementation using the computer ‘vision’ system.     

缝纫平整度客观评判模型的研究

借助于图像处理技术,提取缝纫平整度照片的图像灰度标准差、图像熵、小波变换系数标准差、小波信息熵等特征参数,建立了缝纫平整度的客观评判的概率神经网络模型.经过训练和检验,得出该模型的预测值与期望值之间的相关系数在0.99以上,说明网络模型有效,且精度高,可以用于预测未知缝纫样本的缝纫平整度等级.     

Investigating the relation of fabric’s buckling behaviour and tension seam pucker formation

In the present study, the formation of tension seam pucker is considered in more details in order to compute the thread compression load in terms of sewing thread tension. To this end, the stitch formation in the fabric is simplified. The exerted thread compression force on the fabric in each stitch is calculated according to the thread tension, its mechanical properties and the cycles that the sewing thread suffers before shaping the stitch. In addition, the fabrics properties that are effective on the seam puckering are measured and their relation with the applied load on the fabrics is investigated. This process is carried out for 12 various fabrics which can be classified into three groups according to the application in the clothing. Outcomes indicated that it is possible to compute the compression force on the fabric in each stitch in every sewing tension level that is useful to predict the seam puckering formation in fabrics with known mechanical properties. The results of this research help to analyse the compression load on the fabric based on sewing thread tension.     

基于灰色模型的服装面料缝纫皱缩预测

对影响缝纫质量的重要指标——缝纫皱缩的预测方法进行探讨。选择16种典型面料,在FAST织物风格实验基础上,运用主成分分析法将面料的各项力学性能指标综合为3个主成分分量。通过缝纫实验,运用主客观方法评价织物缝纫后的外观质量,并借助于灰色模型研究以面料性能主成分分量为相关因素序列的缝纫皱缩预测模型,经检验,模型具有较好的精度。     

Automated assessment of textile seam quality based on surface roughness estimation

In this paper the issue of automated seam quality control is addressed, focusing especially on seam pucker evaluation. Currently this task is accomplished by human experts considering five grades of quality. The proposed method estimates surface roughness of seam specimens producing robust and efficient novel features highly correlated to quality grades (QGs). At the initial stage, oblique illumination is applied and two-dimensional images of the specimens are acquired. The images are automatically rotated and centered in respect to the seam line and segmented into four regions. Each region produces an intensity curve through averaging, and roughness estimation is performed based on intensity mean deviation. Finally, a QG is assigned to each specimen using a k-nearest neighbor classifier (kNNc). A data set containing 211 seam specimens, created by two different kinds of fabric, has been used for testing and a correct classification rate of 81.04% has been produced matching up to the performance of human experts.     

提高免烫衬衫袖窿起皱级别的方法

免烫面料由于其特殊的整理方式,容易出现袖窿缝口缩皱的问题,严重影响了衬衣的品质和外观而达不到客户要求。以实例说明改良前后的接缝起皱级别的对比,经检测分析表明:缝纫线的调整;线迹密度的适当调节;对袖窿进行熨烫整理;对衣片含湿率进行调整等有利于提高衬衣袖窿接缝起皱级别,解决了免烫衬衣袖窿接缝起皱低的问题。     

Determination of a sewing quality index of denim fabrics

This paper reports a determination of a sewing quality index in order to assist the industry in providing quality clothing before production. The particularity of this work lies in the fact that it encompasses various sewing quality parameters (efficiency, slippage, and puckering) into a single overall quality index. Moreover, a program was investigated, to determine the quality index, so that the manufacturer has only to enter the available data. In fact, by entering the input parameters which are blend composition, seam direction, fabric mass, stitch density, and seam thread linear density, an overall quality index will be given and the seam quality as well as the defect sources will be displayed. To reach this aim, regression models were determined to predict seam quality. In this work, 18 denim fabrics were sewn with two commercial sewing threads. Their influences, ranked according to the seam quality, were also determined. The seam efficiency was calculated by determining both the seam and the fabric's tensile strength. The seam slippage was determined by calculating the difference between the elongation at the break of the seam and the elongation at the break of the fabric. Seam puckering was determined by measuring both the fabric and seam’s thickness.     

Analysis of Mechanical Properties of Laminated Seams

ABSTRACT

The main goal of this article is to analyze the seam quality by influence of lamination process parameters on the strength properties of laminated seams in cotton clothing products. The seam quality index is defined by maximal force to seam rupture and relative elongation during rupture. These parameters are obtained during the delamination test and shear test. The obtained statistical equations allow to describe, predict, and optimize the seam quality versus the product requirements and seam location within the product. The obtained results suggest that the strength properties of laminated seams can be determined by means of both mentioned tests.     

小波分析在织物缝纫平整度客观评价中的应用

提出一种基于小波分析的缝纫平整度客观评价方法,可以克服主观评价的局限性,使得缝纫外观质量的检测更加快速、准确。在对缝纫平整度标样图像进行处理的基础上,采用二维离散小波变换提取图像高频分量中细节系数的标准差作为特征向量,其在特定的分析尺度上随缝纫平整度的恶化呈现出明显的单调递增趋势。通过计算平整度评估因子（EK）确定了最佳小波和最佳小波分析尺度,从而建立了缝纫平整度等级的客观评判模型。采用棉织物的缝纫样本检验了模型,结果表明主客观评价的吻合度达到85%以上,由此验证了该方法的可行性。     

Effect of temperature and humidity on the transmission properties of textile signal lines

Abstract

The article describes research into the effect of humidity and temperature on the transmission properties of textile signal lines. The presented textile signal lines are made from electro-conductive fabric strips sewn onto a non-conducting textile substrate. A statistical analysis of the effect of the properties of selected substrate line parameters on its resistance to climatic conditions is also presented. Our analysis shows that only the substrate material has a significant impact on changes in the characteristic impedance of the line under the influence of humidity.     

'The Girls in Green': Women's Seaside Dress in England, 1850–1900

Abstract

This article is based on an address given at the Costume Society's 1973 Symposium, and does not purport to be more than a sketchy outline of a subject to which the costume historian has not, as far as I know, given very much attention. In 1939 the Rev. Wallace Clare, F.R.S.A. published a short work, illustrated by drawings of some of the ancient school uniforms for boys. I am indebted to this work for some of my information.     

Eva Hesse. Tate Modern,London November 13 2002 - March 9 2003

Abstract

This article evaluates the state of the current textile industry in El Salvador. Its garment industry greatly depends on the maquiladoras, which refers to the practice of millers charging a maquila, or “miller's portion” for processing other people's grain. However, with the threat of booming economies such as India and China offering even lower labor costs and faster production times in factories ten times bigger, the garment industry is a bleak one these days. Around 75 percent of the original factories have already closed down, leaving around 30,000 unemployed Salvadorians. The same is true for other countries in Latin America, especially Mexico and the rest of Central America. The possibilities for the industry to survive and thrive are juxtaposed with successful craft- and handmade-driven businesses in Brazil and the USA. The analysis uncovers other underlying issues such as bootlegging and monetary consignments from abroad as a deterrent for the development of Salvadorian design. The article presents a strategy that not only combines the mass-produced with handmade elements but also empowers women in the Salvadorian economy.     

The Edinburgh Milliners 1720–1820

Abstract

Whoever has a mind to abundance of trouble,

Let him furnish himself with a ship and a Woman,

For no two things will find you more Employment,

If once you begin to rig them out with all their Streamers,

Nor are they sufficiently adorned,

Or satisfied, that you have done enough to set them forth.

Plaut. Poenulus. Act. I Scen 2     

Textiles,Technical Practice,and Power in the Andes,edited by Denise Arnold,with Penelope Dransart,London: Archetype Publications,June 2014

Abstract

This article was written in conjunction with my production of the Morris Kitsch Archive. The archive contains 530 images, largely drawn from the Internet, of commercial objects decorated with William Morris patterns. I excluded objects that been produced in multiples with different patterns, and objects that claim to be inspired or influenced by Morris but where a Morris design is not identifiable. The images are individually laminated in A4 sheets and hung thematically in a grid. Morris Kitsch Archive was first shown as part of Have Nothing in your Houses That You Do Not Know to Be Useful, or Believe to Be Beautiful at Leo Kamen Gallery, Toronto, February 21-March 21, 2009.     

Textiles,Cloth, and Skins: The Problem of Terminology and Relationship

Abstract

The problem of terminology and relationship is something I first came across when researching cloth and skins in the societies of prehistoric Europe. I wanted to understand the relationship between animal skins, linen and wool textiles, netting and twined cloth, yet I found there was no adequate way of describing these as a group of related materials. I was faced with quite separate books and journals on “cloth” or “textiles” from those on “skins” or “leather.” The content of these publications were usually defined by raw materials, technology or style. Such a separation made it difficult to understand the relationship between these materials at any given time or place. From this problem, I recognized the value of classifying these related materials by their physical similarity and pattern of use. To do this I have used the term cloth-type material to refer to all flexible, thin sheets of material that can be wrapped, folded, and shaped, but excluding materials related through structure, technology or raw material that do not share these qualities. This classification is significant to consider how cloth-type materials have the potential to be used in similar ways, yet through cultural values and choices have distinct roles and values.