Lipid/surfactant compounds as a new tool to optimize skin-care properties of personal-cleansing products

Surfactants are commonly used in personal-care products to increase cleansing performance and to create pleasing foam. However, surfactants can also damage the skin by removing skin lipids and causing corneocytes to swell, resulting in increased skin roughness and transepidermal water loss. Newly established methods help to quantify these effects in controlled consumer studies. In addition, in vitro experiments with skin cell cultures show the potential inflammatory action of surfactants, which in the in vivo situation may provoke skin irritation. These detrimental effects are even enhanced by frequent treatment with surfactant-based personal-care products. Together with the use of mild surfactant combinations, the addition of surfactant-compatible lipid compounds has proved a convenient way of not only counteracting the negative side effects of surfactants but also exerting positive skin effects. In a controlled consumer study, analysis of skin lipids after skin cleansing revealed the lipid-layer strengthening efficacy of lipid/surfactant mixtures that can be solubilized in the personal-care formulation or disperses as waxy particles. As a result, skin roughness after cleansing treatment, as measured by fast optical in vivo topometry of the skin, is improved, and consumers perceive that their skin is smooth and cared for.     

红泥在皮肤清洁产品中的应用评价

介绍了一种新型洁肤用添加剂——红泥,并对红泥在皮肤清洁产品中的作用进行了研究,结果表明,红泥能显著提高活性剂型洁面剂、皂类洁面剂和面膜的清洁功效,是一种高效的洁肤用化妆品原料。     

Smart delivery system for cosmetic ingredients using pH-sensitive polymer hydrogel particles

pH-Sensitive P(MAA-co-EGMA) hydrogel microparticles were prepared and their feasibility as smart delivery carriers for cosmetically active ingredients such as arbutin, adenosine, and niacinamide was evaluated. P(MAAco-EGMA) hydrogel microparticles were synthesized via dispersion photopolymerization. There was a drastic change in the swelling ratio of P(MAA-co-EGMA) microparticles at a pH of around 5. The loading efficiency of the cosmetic ingredients was affected by the electrostatic interaction between the hydrogel and the cosmetic ingredients. The P(MAAco-EGMA) hydrogel microparticles showed a pH-sensitive release behavior. Thus, at pH 4 almost none of the cosmetic ingredients except adenosine permeated through the skin, while at pH 6 relatively high skin permeability was obtained. These results indicate that the P(MAA-co-EGMA) hydrogel microparticles synthesized in this study have the potential to be used as a smart carrier for cosmetic ingredients triggered by an external pH change for cosmetic applications.     

特种活性物及营养美容

介绍了特种活性物及营养美容的理念。消费者目前对营养美容理念的兴趣越来越浓厚,使得营养美容产品逐渐成为市场营销的热点。配方师也热衷于将营养品与美容相结合,开发出营养美容产品,并将营养美容对身体的益处都囊括在产品配方中。介绍了几种最具潜力的营养美容成分以及特种活性物成分,并对其前景进行了展望。     

Synthesis and Characterization of Fluorescent Surfactants for Studying the Penetration of Cosmetic Surfactants on the Skin

Surfactants are one of the important ingredients of cosmetics. However, their penetration and penetration-promoting behavior in the skin has not been well understood. Aiming to explore the surfactant penetration in skin, a novel fluorescent surfactant F-C16, based on sodium fluorescein, was synthesized in this paper. F-C16 has a fluorescence maxima (λ_em) of around 530 nm, and its fluorescence increased with the polarity of solvent. It possesses good emulsifying properties and low cytotoxicity. Hence, it can be used as a quickly detected indicator for surfactants in cosmetics. As demonstrated by this fluorescent surfactant, it was found that the surfactants can penetrate well into skin and cells. It seems that surfactants in cosmetics can enter the cells and reach the dermal layer of skin.     

A review on green nanoemulsions for cosmetic applications with special emphasis on microbial surfactants as impending emulsifying agents

Nanoemulsions are being increasingly utilized in the pharmaceutical, cosmetics, and food industries. They have gained special attention in the cosmetic sector owing to their smaller size and higher kinetic stability and their ability to improve the cutaneous penetration of active ingredients. In addition, they reduce transepidermal water loss, which augments the skin's barrier function. In recent years, the increased awareness among consumers about the health-linked benefits of natural ingredients in cosmetics has urged finding green cosmetic ingredients that are benign to the skin. One of the natural motivations for this quest is finding suitable emulsifier candidates with negligible side effects that are sourced from plants or microbes, which can serve as viable replacements to the erstwhile used synthetic surfactants. Formulating a stable nanoemulsion system for cosmetic application entails a systematic understanding of important attributes of the surfactant candidate such as critical micelle concentration, hydrophilic lipophilic balance, critical packing parameter, and Winsor ratio that are pivotal to the overall performance of the emulsion system. The current review attempts to portray the salient features of nanoemulsion systems in cosmetic formulations, by essentially capturing the important characteristics of the emulsifier that dictate the overall stability of a nanoemulsion system. The recent transition toward the use of green ingredients such as emulsifiers and oils that are dermatologically safe has been delineated, by highlighting their important properties. Furthermore, the progress made so far in the application of microbial biosurfactants in nanoemulsion formulations is presented. Finally, the factors that dictate the overall stability of the nanoemulsion are briefly reviewed.     

Preparation and characterization of pH dependent <Emphasis Type="Italic">κ</Emphasis>-carrageenan-chitosan nanoparticle as potential slow release delivery carrier

A polymeric carrier has high potential as active ingredient delivery vehicle owing to its biocompatibility and biodegradability. In this work, pH dependency of the oppositely charged polymers in forming nanoparticle was investigated. A positively charged chitosan and a negatively charged κ-carrageenan were mixed at varied mass ratios (v/v) with a pH ranged from 3 to 6, respectively, to form nanoparticles through polyelectrolyte complexation. The main interest of this research, is to evaluate the effect of pH on the formation of stable active ingredients encapsulated nanoparticle for sustained release. Based on the FTIR result, the presence of new absorption band at 1584 cm^?1 and slight shift in the spectrum, indicated the complexation of the polymers. The Zetasizer’s measurements showed that irrespective to the combination of chitosan and κ-carrageenan, increase in pH solution decreased the size and the zeta potential of the nanoparticles. Furthermore, depending on the combinations, the yield and the swelling percentage of the nanoparticle could reached up to 80 and 200%, respectively. Among the mass ratio combinations, the ratio 1:1 at pH 4 had the best physical properties. The encapsulation efficiency of the κ-carrageenan-chitosan nanoparticles exhibited higher preference towards more water soluble active ingredients, ascorbic acid as compared to caffeine and lidocaine. In addition, the slow release of active ingredients from the κ-carrageenan-chitosan nanoparticles, is plausibly due to the electrostatic interaction and compactness of the nanoparticles. Thus, they might be suitable for prolonged release applications.     

Sekundäres Alkansulfonat Eigenschaften und Einsatzmöglichkeiten in kosmetischen Präparaten

Secondary Alkanesulfonate – Properties and Applications in Cosmetic Preparation Large amounts of secondary alkanesulfonate are used since several years in the production of cleansing and washing agents. Laboratory and practical tests have shown that this new surfactant, produced commercially, can be used in cosmetic preparations as well. Secondary alkanesulfonate in combination with other surfactants such as alkylethersulfates, exhibit special properties when used for the production of cleansing agents for hair and skin. Further interesting effects are achieved by incorporating secondary alkanesulfonate into soaps and emulsifier mixtures. The commercial production of secondary alkanesulfonate by a continuous process is described briefly. A prognosis on the future market for cosmetic body cleansing agents is given.     

In vitro solubilization of antibiotic drug sulfamethazine: An investigation on drug–micelle aggregate formation by spectroscopic and scattering techniques

Micellar solubilization has been used extensively for the dissolution of sparingly soluble drugs for effective drug delivery. Apart from improving the solubility and bioavailability, micelles can help reduce toxicity and improve permeability in the system. In this article, solubilization of a well-known antibiotic, sulfamethazine (SMZ) upon micellization, is studied by employing various spectroscopic and scattering techniques like, ultraviolet–visible, fluorescence, small angle neutron scattering (SANS), and zeta potential (ZP) studies. The size(s) and charge(s) of the micelles were monitored by SANS and ZP. A positively charged/cationic surfactant, cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide (CTAB) and a negatively charged/anionic surfactant, sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) are used for micelle formation. Regardless of the surfactant type, the solubility of SMZ increases linearly with the increase in the surfactant concentration, as a result of association between the drug and micelles. However, the solubility of SMZ is found to be better with CTAB than SDS. Upon interaction with SMZ, we observed that the critical micelle concentration of CTAB occurred at a lower concentration than that of SDS surfactant. As fitted in the ellipsoidal core–shell model, SANS results also show the formation of charged micelles. This comparative study can help us to select an appropriate medium for SMZ solubilization to improve selective drug delivery in biomedical applications.     

Semi-solid materials for controlled release drug formulation: current status and future prospects

Semi-solid materials represent an important category of inactive ingredients (excipients) of pharmaceutical products. Here we review several common semisolid polymers currently used in the controlled release formulations of many drugs. These polymers are selected based on their importance and broad scope of application in FDA-approved drug products and include several polysaccharides (cellulose, starch, chitosan, alginate) and carbomers, a group of mucoadhesive synthetic polymers. Glyceride-based polymers used in self-emulsifying drug delivery systems (SEDDS) will also be discussed for its importance in formulating poorly water-soluble drugs. Unique features and advantages of each type of semi-solid materials are discussed and examples of their use in oral delivery of drugs are provided. Finally, future prospects of developing new and better semi-solid excipients are discussed with the objective of facilitating clinical translation.     

Extracellular Vesicles in Facial Aesthetics: A Review

Facial aesthetics involve the application of non-invasive or minimally invasive techniques to improve facial appearance. Currently, extracellular vesicles (EVs) are attracting much interest as nanocarriers in facial aesthetics due to their lipid bilayer membrane, nanosized dimensions, biological origin, intercellular communication ability, and capability to modulate the molecular activities of recipient cells that play important roles in skin rejuvenation. Therefore, EVs have been suggested to have therapeutic potential in improving skin conditions, and these highlighted the potential to develop EV-based cosmetic products. This review summarizes EVs’ latest research, reporting applications in facial aesthetics, including scar removal, facial rejuvenation, anti-aging, and anti-pigmentation. This review also discussed the advanced delivery strategy of EVs, the therapeutic potential of plant EVs, and clinical studies using EVs to improve skin conditions. In summary, EV therapy reduces scarring, rejuvenates aging skin, and reduces pigmentation. These observations warrant the development of EV-based cosmetic products. However, more efforts are needed to establish a large-scale EV production platform that can consistently produce functional EVs and understand EVs’ underlying mechanism of action to improve their efficacy.     

Amphoterics in household detergents

Amphoteric surfactants are widely known for their extreme skin kindness, decreasing the irritation of otherwise irritant surfactants, especially anionics, giving low-irritant shampoo ingredients. New high quality amphoteric compounds have been developed. These new amphoterics offer exciting possibilities in several new application areas. Considerable development work has been undertaken to investigate new detergent formulations based on these novel amphoterics. Because of the very low concentration of Ampholak 7TX, the formulations give most effective products with low biological load. Data concerning the increasingly important subject of biodegradability and toxicity are shown. This includes both primary and inherent biodegradability and toxicity of metabolites.     

Studies on the stability of Kathon® CG/ICP Microbicide in alpha olefin sulfonate Based systems

Kathon^® CG/ICP Microbicide (Rohm & Haas Co.) which contains 1.5% 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one and 0.35% 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one as active ingredients has been found to be a highly efficient antimicrobial preservative for formulated products. However, its use has been contra-indicated for formulations containing certain anionic surfactants, especially AOS, because of the suspected presence of residual bisulfite ion added to remove residual hypochlorite remaining at the end of the bleaching process. It has been found that sulfite ion is not stable in the complex mixture of components in commercially produced AOS. AOS samples tested, whether bleached or not, contained residual reducing capacity, but of a sufficiently low redox potential as to not affect Kathon^® CG/ICP Microbicide stability. Alternative analytical methods for analysis for bisulfite in AOS and other surfactant systems are discussed. A new HPLC method for determination of Kathon^® CG/ICP Microbicide level in formulated products was developed.     

加入维生素为个人洁肤品增值

综述了亚太地区的个人清洁用品市场 ,提出加入维生素来改善个人洁肤产品性能的概念。维生素E和泛醇 (维生素原B5)能够柔软皮肤并使皮肤不干燥。这些性能在香皂中已被气体轴承电动肌力计 (GasBearingElectrodymometer )试验所证实。在配方中 ,泛醇的用量范围为 2 %～5 % ,维生素E醋酸酯为 0 2 %～ 5 %     

烷基多苷的应用

简述了烷基多苷对眼睛和皮肤的刺激性、生物降解性、生态毒性、增黏性和抗菌性等。主要介绍了烷基多苷作为主表面活性剂或助表面活性剂用于化妆品、洗衣剂、餐具洗涤剂、食品、塑料、建材以及农药等产品中，起到协同增效作用以及降低其他表面活性剂的刺激性。同时指出了烷基多苷还可用于医药及三次采油等领域中。还可将烷基多苷进行衍生化，从而拓宽其应用领域。     

Bacterial Nanocellulose toward Green Cosmetics: Recent Progresses and Challenges

In the skin care field, bacterial nanocellulose (BNC), a versatile polysaccharide produced by non-pathogenic acetic acid bacteria, has received increased attention as a promising candidate to replace synthetic polymers (e.g., nylon, polyethylene, polyacrylamides) commonly used in cosmetics. The applicability of BNC in cosmetics has been mainly investigated as a carrier of active ingredients or as a structuring agent of cosmetic formulations. However, with the sustainability issues that are underway in the highly innovative cosmetic industry and with the growth prospects for the market of bio-based products, a much more prominent role is envisioned for BNC in this field. Thus, this review provides a comprehensive overview of the most recent (last 5 years) and relevant developments and challenges in the research of BNC applied to cosmetic, aiming at inspiring future research to go beyond in the applicability of this exceptional biotechnological material in such a promising area.     

The Process of Binding and Releasing of Genetic Material from Lipoplexes Based on Trimeric Surfactants and Phospholipids

Nonviral vectors for gene therapy such as lipoplexes are characterized by low toxicity, high biocompatibility, and good transfection efficiency. Specifically, lipoplexes based on polymeric surfactants and phospholipids have great potential as gene carriers due to the increased ability to bind genetic material (multiplied positive electric charge) while lowering undesirable effects (the presence of lipids makes the system more like natural membranes). This study aimed to test the ability to bind and release genetic material by lipoplexes based on trimeric surfactants and lipid formulations of different compositions and to characterize formed complexes by circular dichroism (CD) spectroscopy and atomic force microscopy (AFM). The cytotoxicity of studied lipoplexes was tested on HeLa cells by the MTT cell viability assay and the dye exclusion test (trypan blue). The presence of lipids in the system lowered the surfactant concentration required for complexation (higher efficiency) and reduced the cytotoxicity of lipoplexes. Surfactant/lipids/DNA complexes were more stable than surfactant/DNA complexes. Surfactant molecules induced the genetic material condensation, but the presence of lipids significantly intensified this process. Systems based on trimeric surfactants and lipid formulations, particularly TRI_N and TRI_IMI systems, could be used as delivery carrier, and have proven to be highly effective, nontoxic, and universal for DNA of various lengths.     

Sulfoxylated methyl esters as potential components of liquid formulations

Sulfoxylated methyl esters (Φ-MES) are obtained via sulfoxidation of fatty acid methyl esters with SO₂, O₂, and ultraviolet light of appropriate wavelength. These products may be used as co-surfactants with linear alkylbenzene sulfonate and alkyl ether sulfate, either in heavy-duty or in hand dishwashing liquids. Standard hand dishwashing formulations based on Φ-MESC₁₆ are presented and discussed with regard to solubility, viscosity, performance, and skin compatibility. The experimental results obtained indicate that the above-mentioned products can be regarded as potential components for liquid formulations.     

Alcohol ethoxycarboxylates—Mild, high-foaming surfactants for personal-care products

Alcohol ethoxycarboxylates (AEC) may be derived from alcohol ethoxylates (AEO) either by reaction of the nonionic surfactant with monochloroacetic acid (MCAA) or by oxidation. If MCAA is used, a -CH₂COOH unit is added to the AEO. When an AEO is oxidized, the terminal -CH₂OH group is selectively converted to -COOH. By use of proprietary carefully controlled oxidation technology, a variety of AEC surfactants have been synthesized. These surfactants exhibit good foaming and excellent line soap dispersion, and they allow formulation of high-quality personal-care products. Starter formulations have been investigated with AEC, both in shampoos and liquid hand cleaners. These formulations had the viscosity and foaming found in a survey of commercially available products. A shampoo and a liquid soap formulation with AEC were subjected to in-vitro assays to assess the potential for irritation to the skin or eyes. The assay results predict these formulations to cause minimal irritation, similar to commercial products. Presented at the AOCS 86th Annual Meeting & Expo, May 7–11, 1995, San Antonio, Texas.     

人参茎叶总皂甙与神经酰胺在护肤品中的效果测试与分析

分别以人参茎叶总皂甙和神经酰胺作为护肤品中的抗衰老活性物,简述了其抗衰老机理,进行了临床使用效果测试,通过确切的测试数据分析两者在抗皮肤衰老方面的效果差异,及其对设计高低档抗衰老护肤品的意义。