空心纱机织物的工艺研究

优选了121．9cm C（V）18．4（9．8）／18．4（9．8）433／283空心纱机织物的生产工艺,重点改善了浆纱和退维工艺,为避免浆纱时水溶维纶芯纱溶化而采用低温上浆工艺,偏低掌握烘筒温度;为使退维彻底干净,合理选择了煮沸时间和浴比。     

机织物结构相模型剖析和修正

针对机织物结构相传统模型未能敏感反映不同组织结构状态差异的问题,剖析了模型的约束条件和不足,建立了能够有效反映组织信息的结构相模型。提出了相对屈曲波高概念用于表征不同织纹组织中纱线的弯曲程度,为结构相模型的修正提供了理论参考。研究结果表明：结构相改进模型随屈曲波高的增加而增加,但呈非线性关系;对于不同织纹组织,形成等支持面的结构相是不固定的（0 结构相除外）,相同屈曲波高对应着不同的结构相,三原组织的结构相值之间存在平纹＜ 斜纹＜ 缎纹;在低结构相区域,结构相与屈曲波高可看成非线性关系,在高结构相区域改进模型与传统模型有统一性。     

多层接结三维机织物的制备与结构分析

以经重平为基础组织制备了两种多层接结三维织物,分别对织物进行经纬向切片,通过对设计的结构示意图、已有几何模型图和实际结构图三者的比较,明确了已有几何模型与织物真实结构的差异,得到经纬纱在不同结构中的具体分布形态。     

接结经纱对三维正交机织物结构的影响

以经纱接结的三维正交机织物为研究对象 ,在 3种接结纱张力下制织了 2种接结纱浮长的 6种正交机织物。通过比较织物的接结纱织缩率、纬纱密度和织物厚度 ,发现适当的接结纱张力既有利于形成较为理想结构的正交织物 ,又有利于织造的顺利进行 ;较小的接结纱浮长 ,有利于织物结构的均匀。     

竹节纱机织面料的疵点分析和防范措施

分析了竹节纱在机织面料上形成的疵点类型和特点,并根据设备情况按工序提出了具体的防范措施,认为竹节的粗度及其在布面上的分布规律都会影响竹节纱织物的风格,生产前应要多试纺试织,以免造成浪费。     

应用纱线序列图像的电子织物构建

为检测纱线条干均匀性对织物外观的影响,在纱线条干图像测量的基础上,提出了一种基于纱线序列图像的电子织物的构建方法。通过建立织物组织变化模型和光照模型,将纱线直径值与基元组织点外观灰度纹理分布相结合,构建电子织物外观数学模型。实验中通过将采集的纱线序列图像进行图像分割和形态学运算等处理,获取纱线直径数据,代入到构建的织物外观数学模型中,实现基于纱线序列图像的电子织物的模拟并且相关参数可调。通过选择合理的织物结构参数,提出的电子织物模型能够真实的反映纱线条干均匀性对织物外观的影响,准确预测布面效果。     

机织土工织物结构参数与渗透性关系探讨

探讨了机织土工织物的织物组织、纱线细度、经纬纱密度等因素对织物渗透性的影响。确定了织物组织结构参数与渗透系数之间的回归关系。通过改变织物的组织结构参数使土工布具有不同的水力学性能,从而满足不同工程的要求。     

纬弹包芯竹节纱织物的开发与生产

介绍了经纱为棉等节距竹节纱、纬纱为棉/氨变节距竹节包芯纱斜卡织物的生产工艺,并对生产中采取的关键技术措施进行了探讨,其中细纱和织造是关键工序.     

Anisotropy in wrinkle properties of woven fabric

In this paper, the wrinkle resistance of plain fabrics woven with weft yarn in S‐ and Z‐twist directions and at various twist levels in different test directions has been measured and then analysed. Results show that the wrinkle resistance increases as the weft yarn twist increases. The wrinkle properties of the fabric show that the direction of test has an obvious effect on the results and the wrinkle resistance depends on the method of folding such as face‐to‐face and back‐to‐back methods. The experimental results showed that there is anisotropy in wrinkle properties of the fabric made of yarns with different twist directions. When the fabric is folded face‐to‐face and the weft twist direction is S, the wrinkle resistance of fabric in various test directions shows a convex curvature, whereas when the same fabric is folded in a back‐to‐back manner then results show a linear curvature. This means that the wrinkle resistance of a fabric differs in various directions and in the method of folding (back‐to‐back or face‐to‐face) and shows an anisotropic wrinkle resistance nature.     

三维网眼机织物结构与双向开口机构的设计研究

分析三维网眼机织物的组织结构、模型及织造工艺过程,然后在此基础上设计出新型双向开口机构,重点介绍配有双向开口机构的三维织机的开口工艺,以期为三维网眼机织物的开发提供参考。     

五轴向立体机织物的单元体结构分析

分析了斜向纱的排列方式对五轴向立体机织物的结构和Z向纱密度的影响,获得了2种类型的五轴向立体机织物结构:一种结构稀疏,Z向纱密度小;另一种结构紧密,Z向纱密度大。以紧密结构的五轴向立体织物为研究对象,建立了该织物的单元体结构模型,采用解析几何方法,计算了Z向纱的截面形状,根据Wβ/WX、Wβ/WY与cosβ、sinβ的关系,Z向纱的截面形状可呈八边形、六边形和四边形等不同形状。     

数码机织物组织结构的组合设计原理和方法

复杂结构机织物的设计过程繁琐,变化形式多样,常采用组织组合设计的方法来完成,随着数码机织物分层组合设计方法的提出,机织物的结构设计可以组织库设计的方法取代传统的单一组织的设计模式。在数码机织物全息组织和组织库设计的基础上,对以组织库为基础的组合结构设计原理进行深入分析,并提出合理的设计方法。该研究成果可方便地应用于数码机织物的产品设计,特别是分层组合设计模式下数码提花织物的创新设计。     

广角机织物的织造工艺及其偏轴拉伸力学性能

为开发适用于不同应用领域的产业用纺织品,在对原有普通剑杆织机改进的基础上,探讨了广角机织物的织造工艺,织造了经纱和纬纱夹角为120°的涤/棉平纹广角机织物。借助万能材料试验机研究了普通涤/棉正交织物和广角机织物不同偏轴方向的拉伸力学性能,获得了其应力-应变曲线和特征值变化规律,并分析了其变形及失效模式。结果表明:对于普通正交机织物和广角机织物,其拉伸断裂强力均呈现出明显的极轴特性;在断裂强力相同的情况下,与普通正交机织物相比,广角机织物纬向的断裂伸长率提高了30%,经、纬向弹性模量分别提高了42%和79%,展现出优异的强度和变形特征。     

弹力织物中弹力纤维含量的计算

通过公式推导 ,得出弹力纱及弹力机织物中弹力丝纤维含量的计算公式 ,包括号数制和公制支数制。结果表明 ,织物中弹力纤维含量与弹力纱的弹力纤维含量和弹力纱在织物中的排列密度有关 ,与此同时 ,还受到不同种类纤维回潮的影响。公式在弹力织物设计生产以及成本核算中具有很好的应用价值     

Prediction of yarn crimp in PES multifilament woven barrier fabrics using artificial neural network

This research was aimed to develop artificial neural network (ANN) models to predict yarn crimp in woven barrier fabrics. For ANN training, 52 polyester (PES) multifilament barrier fabrics were produced by varying weft yarn and filament fineness, yarn type, weft density, weave type, and loom parameters. The supervised training of neural network was performed using Matlab® ANN toolbox function ‘trainbr’ which is the incorporation of Levenberg-Marquardt (LM) optimization and automated Bayesian regularization into backpropagation. From modeling outcomes, it was observed that both warp and weft yarn crimp models have generalized well with excellent coefficient of determination and trivial mean absolute error when tested on novel data. Moreover, input rank analysis of optimized network provided important information about model stability with respect to input variables, and trend analysis elucidated the input-crimp behavior using different input levels.     

Effect of structural parameters of porous yarns and fabric on air permeability and moisture transfer of double-face woven fabrics

In this study, effect of fabric structural parameters of double-face woven fabrics including kind of porous yarn namely micro-porous yarn and hollow yarn, hole size of hollow yarn, percentage of these yarns in double-face woven fabric structure, and finally weft density on air permeability and moisture transfer of woven fabrics was evaluated. These yarns were produced by using water-soluble continuous polyvinyl alcohol filaments as core part for hollow yarns and as doubling yarn in micro-porous yarn. Results revealed the effect of kind of porous yarn, hole size of hollow yarn, and weft density on air permeability and moisture transfer of woven fabrics. The percentage of porous yarns as weft did not show obvious trend. Analysis of variance was used to study the effect of these variables on air permeability and moisture transfer of double-face woven fabrics statistically.     

平纹织物纱线截面形态经典理论探析及其泛化

平纹机织物内部纱线的截面一直被业界视为某种固定的形态,但应用可视化技术发现,基于经典的双凸截面模型存在问题,即使用微积分思路解决问题过程中,发现纱线截面变化的规律.研究结果表明,无论是单层机织物还是多层机织物,其纱线截面均呈现多元性,而非单一形态.特别是对于接结多层纬纱的经纱,其截面沿纱线长度方向按凹凸交变的规律呈周期性变化.这一研究成果对"织物纱线恒定截面论"提出了异议,对研究纱线的真实截面形态及织物外观模拟具有参考价值.     

Effect of cotton fiber and yarn characteristics on color variation in woven fabric dyed with vat dyes

The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of cotton fiber and yarn characteristics on the color variation of woven fabrics dyed with vat dyes. A fabric length of 31?m was woven so that each meter of the fabric comprised weft yarns of slightly different cotton fiber or yarn characteristics as compared to the other. The woven fabric was pretreated and dyed with vat dyes using industrial-scale, pad-dry-chemical-pad-steam process. After dyeing it was found that the fabric containing weft yarns made from cotton with higher reflectance (Rd) values gave poor color strength as compared to that of lower Rd values. Fabric comprising combed weft yarns showed better color depth (K/S) values as compared to that comprising carded weft yarns made from the same raw cotton. Furthermore, the fabric comprising finer- or lower-twist weft yarns gave higher color depth as compared to that with coarser or higher-twist weft yarns. It was concluded that slight variations in the cotton or yarn characteristics in the weft yarns could result in significant shade variations in the vat-dyed fabric.