从欧洲近代染织业的发展看东方染织艺术对世界的影响（1）

目前以法国、意大利为首的欧洲染织业主导着世界纺织与服装界的潮流，然而回顾欧洲近代染织业发展史，以中国、印度为代表的东方染织业曾给予欧洲染织业以巨大影响。文章论述了欧洲丝织物和印花布的源起和发展，以及刺绣和花边的发展历史，说明欧洲染织业在近代工业革命的背景下，走过了一条向东方染织业学习、模仿，逐步掌握其技术精华，提高生产率，改造、创新染织产品，进而向东方国家输出产品、占领市场的道路。这也是当前我国染织服装产品走向世界的必由之路。     

王庆珍大师唯美布贴艺术

王庆珍 1959年生于哈尔滨市，1977年考入鲁迅美术学院工艺系染织专业，获学士学位。1985年考入鲁迅美术学院工艺系染织专业攻读硕士学位，研究方向为《基础图案研究》，1988年获硕士学位。现为鲁迅美术学院染织教授、染织服装系副主任。主要担任“专业基础课、专业设计课”的教学任务。著有《现代室内配饰艺术》，《壁饰艺术》，《壁饰环境艺术》等。《染织专业性的花卉课》收录在《21世纪中国高等美术院校艺术设计教学经典》的《服装染织艺术设计》专集，并在全国艺术院校《基础图案学生作品点评》一书点评单独纹样部分。     

传统图案在现代染织设计中的应用研究

随着我国经济的迅速发展和广大消费者审美能力的逐步提高，人们对于服装染织艺术设计的要求也越来越高。文章以深厚的中华民族文化为底蕴，将传统图案与现代染织设计相融进行创新发展，这不仅有利于传统文化的传承与弘扬，而且对丰富我国现代艺术设计宝库具有重要意义。     

从《古吉拉特的纺织品与服装》中学习染织设计

通过阐述古吉拉特邦地区特有的手工纺织技艺以及独特的的纹样图案,分析当前古吉拉特邦纺织品与服装的发展历程和其在服饰设计中的艺术价值以及影响染织设计的服饰设计因素,对古吉拉特邦手工纺织品所体现的技艺和历史感充满敬畏的同时,与我国传统染织技艺做对比,以期为未来服装与染织设计中的创新研究提供参考。     

染织工艺在皮制服装图案中的传承与发展

主要对染织工艺技术特点及发展历程进行系统地概述,对服装业时代前沿流行元素的描述,并阐述了染织工艺对皮制服装的文化与销量的影响。     

吴海燕设计工作室流行发布

吴海燕：中国服装设计师协会副主席，中国美术学院染织服装系主任教授，博士生导师，北京吴海燕纺织服装（设计）有限公司（WHY DESIGN）总裁。     

20世纪──染织服装史上多元的时代

２０世纪──染织服装史上多元的时代郑巨欣（中国美术学院）Ｔｈｅ２０ｔｈＣｅｎｔｕｒｙ──ＡＭｕｌｔｉｐｏｌａｒＥｒａｉｎｔｈｅＨｉｓｔｏｒｙｏｆＤｙｅｉｎｇ，ＥｅａｖｉｎｇａｎｄＧａｒｍｅｎｔ￥ＺｈｅｎｇＪｕｘｉｎ（续上期）五、在艰难中行进的中国１．...     

20世纪──染织服装史上多元的时代

２０世纪──染织服装史上多元的时代郑巨欣（中国美术学院）（续上期）三、战争风云１．战争改变了生活的态度２０世纪，在人类文明史上发生了两次巨大规模的全球性的战争，在１９１４～１９１８、１９３９～１９４５年间，全世界前后分别有将近１５亿和２０亿以上的人口...     

有特色才有生命力——对我院艺术设计专业特色建设的回顾与思考

2003年苏州大学艺术学院艺术设计专业获得了江苏省特色学科的称号，这是该专业40多年来坚持走有特色发展道路所取得的成果。苏州大学艺术学院艺术设计专业的历史最早可以追溯到1960年创办的苏州丝绸工学院染织美术专业，今天的艺术设计专业是1997年在原苏州丝绸工学院并入苏州大学后，由苏丝纺织艺术分院的染织艺术设计、服装艺术设计、装潢艺术设计、     

亚麻纺织品开发的探讨

分析了建国以来，我国亚麻纺织品的开发现状，提出了要注花亚麻染织物，印花织物，亚麻服装，亚麻服装，亚麻装饰品的开发及后整理。     

Reliable identification of grapevine rootstock varieties using RAPD PCR on woody samples

Since grapevine ( Vitis spp .) rootstock material is being traded increasingly as disbudded woody material a lack of distinctive morphological features on such material necessitates an alternative and reliable means of identification. Methods described here were developed for rapid and efficient extraction of DNA from woody samples rich in phenolic compounds and polysaccharides, and for subsequent identification of varieties by RAPD PCR. Using these methods, and with the application of only one selected RAPD primer, we were able to differentiate sixteen rootstock varieties, including the seven varieties most commonly used in Germany. Problems commonly encountered with reproducibility of RAPD patterns were avoided by choosing primers with a dinucleotide sequence and a high G/C content that allowed a rather high annealing temperature of 45°C. Methods described here should also be useful for other horticultural crops, especially those with woody tissues rich in phenolic compounds and polysaccharides.     

An internet compendium of analytical methods and spectroscopic information for monomers and additives used in food packaging plastics

An internet website (http://cpf.jrc.it/smt/) has been produced as a means of dissemination of methods of analysis and supporting spectroscopic information on monomers and additives used for food contact materials (principally packaging). The site which is aimed primarily at assisting food control laboratories in the European Union contains analytical information on monomers, starting substances and additives used in the manufacture of plastics materials. A searchable index is provided giving PM and CAS numbers for each of 255 substances. For each substance a data sheet gives regulatory information, chemical structures, physico-chemical information and background information on the use of the substance in particular plastics, and the food packaging applications. For monomers and starting substances (155 compounds) the infra-red and mass spectra are provided, and for additives (100 compounds); additionally proton NMR are available for about 50% of the entries. Where analytical methods have been developed for determining these substances as residual amounts in plastics or as trace amounts in food simulants these methods are also on the website. All information is provided in portable document file (PDF) format which means that high quality copies can be readily printed, using freely available Adobe Acrobat Reader software. The website will in future be maintained and up-dated by the European Commission's Joint Research Centre (JRC) as new substances are authorized for use by the European Commission (DG-ENTR formerly DGIII). Where analytical laboratories (food control or other) require reference substances these can be obtained free-ofcharge from a reference collection housed at the JRC and maintained in conjunction with this website compendium.     

Aroma characterization of various apricot varieties using headspace–solid phase microextraction combined with gas chromatography–mass spectrometry and gas chromatography–olfactometry

The characterization of the aromatic profile of several apricot cultivars with molecular tracers in order to obtain objective data concerning the aromatic quality of this fruit was undertaken using headspace–solid phase microextraction (HS–SPME). Six apricot cultivars were selected according to their organoleptic characteristics: Iranien, Orangered, Goldrich, Hargrand, Rouge du Roussillon and A4025. The aromatic intensity of these varieties measured by HS–SPME–Olfactometry were defined and classified according to the presence and the intensity of grassy, fruity and apricot like notes. In the six varieties, 23 common volatile compounds were identified by HS–SPME–GC–MS. Finally, 10 compounds, ethyl acetate, hexyl acetate, limonene, β-cyclocitral, γ-decalactone, 6-methyl-5-hepten-2-one, linalool, β-ionone, menthone and (E)-hexen-2-al were recognized by HS–SPME–GC–O as responsible of the aromatic notes involved in apricot aroma and considered as molecular tracers of apricot aromatic quality which could be utilized to discriminate apricot varieties.     

Tests of potential functional barriers for laminated multilayer food packages. Part I: Low molecular weight permeants

The advent of the functional barrier concept in food packaging has brought with it a requirement for fast tests of permeation through potential barrier materials. In such tests it would be convenient for both foodstuffs and materials below the functional barrier (sub-barrier materials) to be represented by standard simulants. By means of inverse gas chromatography, liquid paraffin spiked with appropriate permeants was considered as a potential simulant of sub-barrier materials based on polypropylene (PP) or similar polyolefins. Experiments were performed to characterize the kinetics of the permeation of low molecular weight model permeants (octene, toluene and isopropanol) from liquid paraffin, through a surrogate potential functional barrier (25 μm-thick oriented PP) into the food simulants olive oil and 3% (w/v) acetic acid. These permeation results were interpreted in terms of three permeation kinetic models regarding the solubility of a particular model permeant in the post-barrier medium (i.e. the food simulant). The results obtained justify the development and evaluation of liquid sub-barrier simulants that would allow flexible yet rigorous testing of new laminated multilayer packaging materials.     

Chlorohydrins of bisphenol A diglycidyl ether (BADGE) and of bisphenol F diglycidyl ether (BFDGE) in canned foods and ready-to-drink coffees from the Japanese market

BADGE.2HCl and BFDGE.2HCl were determined in 28 samples of ready-to-drink canned coffee and 18 samples of canned vegetables (10 corn, 5 tomatoes and 3 others), all from the Japanese market. HPLC was used as the principal analytical method and GCMS for confirmation of relevant LC fractions. BADGE.2HCl was found to be present in one canned coffee and five samples of corn, BFDGE.2HCl in four samples of canned tomatoes and in one canned corn. No sample was found which exceeded the 1mg/kg limit of the EU for the BADGE chlorohydrins. However the highest concentration was found for the sum of BFDGE.2HCl and BFDGE.HCl.H₂O at a level of 1.5mg/kg. A Beilstein test confirmed that all cans containing foods contaminated with BADGE.2HCl or BFDGE.2HCl had at lest one part coated with a PVC organosol.     

European priorities for research to support legislation in the area of food contact materials and articles

A strong science base is required to underpin the planning and decision-making process involved in determining future European community legislation on materials and articles in contact with food. Significant progress has been made in the past 5 years in European funded work in this area, with many developments contributing to a much better understanding of the migration process, and better and simpler approaches to food control. In this paper this progress is reviewed against previously identified work-areas (identified in 1994) and conclusions are reached about future requirements for R&D to support legislation on food contact materials and articles over the next 5 or so years.     

Analysis of benzo[a]pyrene in spiked fatty foods by second derivative synchronous spectrofluorimetry after microwave-assisted treatment of samples

A simple, rapid and inexpensive method has been developed for the determination of benzo[a     

The development of reference materials for paralytic shellfish poisoning toxins in lyophilized mussel. II: Certification study

This paper describes the second part of a project undertaken to develop certified mussel reference materials for paralytic shellfish poisoning toxins. In the first part two interlaboratory studies were undertaken to investigate the performance of the analytical methodology for several PSP toxins, in particular saxitoxin and decarbamoyl-saxitoxin in lyophilized mussels, and to set criteria for the acceptance of results to be applied during the certification exercise. Fifteen laboratories participated in this certification study and were asked to measure saxitoxin and decarbamoyl-saxitoxin in rehydrated lyophilized mussel material and in a saxitoxin-enriched mussel material. The participants were allowed to use a method of their choice but with an extraction procedure to be strictly followed. The study included extra experiments to verify the detection limits for both saxitoxin and decarbamoyl-saxitoxin. Most participants (13 of 15) were able to meet all the criteria set for the certification study. Results for saxitoxin.2HCl yielded a certified mass fraction of <0.07 mg/kg in the rehydrated lyophilized mussels. Results obtained for decarbamoyl-saxitoxin.2HCl yielded a certified mass fraction of 1.59+/-0.20 mg/kg. The results for saxitoxin.2HCl in enriched blank mussel yielded a certified mass fraction of 0.48 +/- 0.06 mg/kg. These certified reference materials for paralytic shellfish poisoning toxins in lyophilized mussel material are the first available for laboratories to test their method for accuracy and performance.     

Announcing a new international peer-reviewed journal:Food Science and Human Wellness now accepting manuscript submission in English

<正>We are pleased to announce the launch of a new international peer-reviewed journal-Food Science and Human Wellness,ISSN 2213-4530,which is an open access journal,produced and hosted by Elsevier B.V.on behalf of Beijing Academy of Food Sciences.Food Science and Human Wellness is an international peer-reviewed English journal that provides a forum for the dissemination of the