多角度全毛面料抗皱性测试仪

现有面料抗皱性能测试方法只评价面料经、纬向抗皱性能,无法评价其他方向的抗皱性,导致测量结果不全面,针对这个问题,设计一台多角度面料抗皱性测试仪器,仪器包括硬件和软件2部分,硬件部分包括织物多角度压皱系统和图像采集系统,软件部分主要将采集的图片进行定量化分析,用以评价面料多角度抗皱性能.文章测试10块全毛面料,并将新设计的测试仪器与传统YG541B型测试仪器进行对比,得出二者评价相关性一致,但新仪器测试精度较高.     

针织西服面料的挺括风格研究

为探讨针织面料在西服开发应用的要求与标准,寻找能够用于西服开发的针织面料,分别从弯曲长度、折皱回复性、悬垂性3个方面对针织面料的挺括风格进行量化分析。借助实验仪器以及数据处理得到弯曲刚度、折皱回复角、静态悬垂系数3项性能指标,以机织西服面料为参考标准,对针织面料的挺括风格进行研究分析。结果表明:6路变化罗马组织是较为适合针织面料开发西服的组织结构,其结构稳定性优于12路小提花组织以及变化间隔组织,降低纵向弯曲刚度与横向弯曲刚度的差异;织物厚度增加0.1 mm,折皱回复程度提高10%;织物密度控制在110~130线圈/(5 cm)时,悬垂程度达到机织西服面料的60%以上;6路变化罗马组织配合高织物密度能够使针织面料的挺括风格达到机织西服面料的80%。     

焙烘温度与棉织物的抗皱性能

焙烘温度是棉织物树脂免烫整理的重要参数,作者以实验为依据,用方差分析来研究焙烘温度与织物抗折皱性能之间的关系。     

仿毛阳改面料的开发

采用常温常压阳离子改性涤纶生产的仿毛系列面料成本低,手感丰满,弹性好,易洗涤,易打理,仿毛感强,倍受消费者欢迎.文章主要介绍了常温常压阳离子改性涤纶的性质,仿毛系列产品的原料组成,所用纱线的质量,该产品的坯布规格,各工序的最佳生产工艺及生产要点.以该系列产品生产的先后顺序,依次对各工序的设计理念、工艺难点及优选过程进行了详细介绍.     

高密多功能仿毛休闲服面料创新与开发

旅游休闲服除要求轻便、保暖、对身体健康有益外,同时应具有透气性好、吸热少、吸水性强、耐脏、易洗等特点。根据旅游休闲服的使用特点,介绍了高密多功能仿毛休闲服面料的技术创新与开发过程。     

微生物谷氨酰胺转胺酶改善真丝织物抗皱性

以MTG酶对真丝电力纺进行抗皱整理,探讨了其对真丝织物的作用,并从微观上进行了分析。MTG酶单独作用及双氧水／MTG酶、蛋白酶／MTG酶、超声波／MTG酶等复合整理方法都表明：MTG酶可以改善真丝织物的抗皱性并提高强力或修复强力损伤。同时,通过几种处理方法的对比,超声波和MTG酶具有很好的协同作用,使折皱回复角提高了17.4％,强力也提高了11．2％。     

涤/毛平纹织物各向抗皱性能差异分析

使用YG(B)541E型智能式织物折皱弹性仪,测试5块不同规格涤/毛平纹织物的7个不同方向折皱回复角,分析各向抗皱性能差异.通过研究得到结论:与织物经向接近方向折皱回复角与经向差异较小,而与织物纬向接近方向折皱回角与纬向差异较大;织物经、纬密度小的,缓弹性回复性能较好;交织织物各角度抗皱性能具有明显规律,而混纺织物规律不明显.     

涤纶长丝仿毛面料的市场调查与分析

通过对现今北京中高档商场近200个品牌4000余套服装的调研取祥，初步掌握了涤纶长丝仿毛产品的消费现状，分析出今后该方向产品的市场前景；进而对比了国内外现有涤纶仿毛产品的服用性能，分析出当前国内涤纶产品的扰劣及发展方向，希望对涤纶生产厂家起到指导作用。     

乙二醛毛织物抗皱整理

用乙二醛对薄型毛织物进行抗皱整理,测定整理后织物的折皱回复角、断裂强度及整理后对织物白度的影响,通过实验选择最佳工艺为,乙二醛浓度17.5 g/L、硫酸铝浓度22.5 g/L、乙二醇浓度3 g/L、焙烘温度125℃、焙烘时间3 min.     

织物折皱回复性能的研究

把毛织物看成是具有内摩擦约束的弹性条,利用能量分析的方法对毛织物在折皱回复时的回复力与变形的关系进行了分析,通过;简单的模型及公式将织物在回复过程中的重要性质表征出来,理论与实测结果基本吻合。     

Modelling crease recovery behaviour of woven fabrics

Crease recovery behaviour is an important property of fabrics for apparel applications. A theoretical model is developed in which the fabric is represented by an elastic element and a frictional element. The frictional restraint is assumed to be proportional to the square root of the curvature of the fabric during deformation. An energy method is applied to the study of crease recovery behaviour of the fabric. Equations of crease recovery work and crease recovery force as a function of curvature are derived. Two basic parameters are needed to characterise the fabric in the crease recovery model: the bending rigidity and bending hysteresis of the fabric; both are readily measured in a pure bending test. Good agreement is observed between experimental data and theoretical predictions for wool/polyester blended and worsted fabrics.     

机织物折皱回复各向异性的研究

针对织物的各向异性,研究了纯棉平纹和斜纹织物的折皱回复性能随取向角变化的情况。采用织物折皱回复动态测试仪测量不同取向角的动态回复指标,包括初始回复速率、急弹时间、急弹回复角度、缓弹时间、缓弹回复角度。结果表明,仅回复角度随取向角变化存在一定规律性,平纹织物的折皱回复角度随着取向角的增加呈现先增大后减小的趋势,斜纹织物正面对折和反面对折试样的趋势有所不同。试验证明了织物对角线方向能较全面反映结构均匀平纹织物的折皱回复性能,斜纹斜向和其垂直方向能作为斜纹织物的测试角度。     

蒸呢对涤纶长丝仿毛织物弹性影响的研究

通过对几种不同的化纤长丝仿毛织物的蒸呢工艺探讨和弹性测试,发现罐蒸对提高长丝仿丝物的弹性恢复具有很大影响,蒸呢工艺的选择对此效果也明显影响。蒸呢对织物的弹性影响具有耐久性。     

织物折皱回复规律与建模

根据纺织材料黏弹性理论,研究织物的折皱回复变化规律。在织物摩擦约束力偶与其弯曲曲率成正比的假设条件下,把织物看成是具有内摩擦约束的固体黏弹性材料,利用标准线性固体和滑块并联组成的模型,对织物的折皱回复行为进行分析,把织物的加压弯曲、释压回复等行为过程用同一模型联系起来,在此基础上推导出织物折皱回复角的回复规律方程。并以毛织物和毛/涤混纺织物为实验材料进行验证,经实际测试证明,该模型能较好地反映织物折皱回复角的回复规律。     

Exploring the relationship between bending property and crease recovery of woven fabrics

Fabric bending property dictates fabric crease behaviors. Exploring the relationship between fabric bending and crease recovery properties is important for better understanding of fabric performance. This paper presents the viscoelasticity modeling of a creased fabric to characterize the torque and bending deformation by crease recovery and bending parameters, respectively. In the experiment, nine types of fabrics were selected to analyze the relation between bending property and crease recovery property. The bending rigidity (B) and the bending hysteresis moment (2HB) were measured by the KES-FB2 Pure Bending Tester. The initial angular velocity (IV) was measured by a dynamic crease recovery tester. The experimental results showed that B and 2HB generally decrease at the beginning and then almost remain unchanged with the increase in IV. We used an exponential function to express the non-linear relation between bending rigidity and the initial angular velocity, and proved that the initial angular velocity is related to fabric bending property and can be used to characterize the fabric crease recovery property.     

涤纶长丝仿毛织物的设计要素分析

在经历了几十年的发展历程后,涤纶仿毛产品在外观、手感、穿着舒适性和使用性能上有了长足的进步.文章通过对性能较优异的涤纶长丝仿毛产品的深入剖析,总结出涤纶仿毛产品设计的原则.研究表明,涤纶长丝仿毛产品正从原料多元化、纱线织物结构合理化、工艺规范化等几方面着手,逐步完善织物的综合特性,向多维结构、多功能以至超真方向发展.     

Evaluating the crease recovery performance of woven fabrics considering bending behaviour in various directions

Since the woven fabric is used on the 3D body, it encounters bending deformation and crease in various directions. Due to the prominence of these deformations in the appearance of the garment, the inspection of bending and crease recovery behaviour of fabric in different directions needs to be considered. In this paper, the evaluation of bending rigidity and crease recovery of fabrics is carried out in various directions. Analysis of the results revealed that fabric-bending rigidity could be expressed as a sinusoidal function of sample orientation towards warp direction. For all the studied fabrics, from warp axis to bias direction, bending rigidity follows a descending trend, however; crease recovery angle has an ascending tendency. Reverse variations were achieved for both properties from bias direction to weft axis due to the variant warp and weft yarn contributions in each direction. Hence, the lowest bending rigidity was obtained in the bias direction (45°), while the highest crease recovery angle was recorded for the mentioned direction. Moreover, an exponential function is utilized to express the non-linear relation between bending rigidity and the crease recovery in different directions of the fabric. The statistical analysis of the results clarified that the effect of fabric direction and structural parameters on the bending and crease recovery behaviour is significant in the confidence range of 95%.     

涤/粘中长仿毛织物的抗静电性能研究

针对涤/粘中长仿毛织物存在的静电问题,阐述了抗静电的评价指标以及测试方法,对涤/粘中长仿毛织物抗静电性能进行了测试,并对测试结果进行了分析和讨论.为改善涤/粘中长仿毛织物的抗静电性能,开发了几种加入不同原料的涤/粘混纺产品,并进行了测试和分析.通过对测试结果的分析得出:不同的产品,抗静电性能不同;织物结构相近的品种,在不同的印染厂加工,后整理工艺不同,静电压值和静电半衰期值不同,抗静电效果也不一样;涤/粘中长仿毛产品的抗静电性能与原料有关,加入高吸水涤纶、改性涤纶和大豆蛋白复合纤维可明显改善织物的抗静电性.     

仿毛机织物静态导湿机理探讨

文章测量和分析了几种中长涤粘仿毛机织物在相近厚度、不同透气量以及相近透气量、不同厚度情况下的透湿情况.研究发现,在相近厚度时,织物的静态透湿量随透气量的增大有减小趋势.由此得出一个假设,毛细管吸附作用在织物的静态透湿中起重要作用,透气量太大时单位面积内的毛细孔数减少,对水分子的吸附量小,所以吸湿量小.这个假设被水分蒸发的"量子"跳跃现象所证实.另外,在透气量相近时,透湿量随厚度增加而略有减小,这主要是由于织物微孔中纤维材料的表面积很大,水分子在传递过程中受到很大的吸附力,从而使得较厚织物的导湿能力下降.