Cuticle and cortical cell morphology of alpaca and other rare animal fibres

The null hypothesis of the experiments reported is that the cuticle and cortical morphology of rare animal fibres are similar. The investigation also examined if the productivity and age of alpacas were associated with cuticle morphology and if seasonal nutritional conditions were related to cuticle scale frequency. Cuticle and cortical cell dimensions and ellipticity of the fibre cross section were investigated in 32 samples of cashmere, alpaca, mohair, bison, qiviut and vicuña from various origins. In addition, 24 Peruvian alpaca samples from animals ages 2–6 years and of varying fleece productivity were examined. Cuticle scale frequency, cuticle thickness and cortical cell dimensions (length, diameter, volume and ratio of length to diameter) and ellipticity differed between fibres and cuticle scale frequency also varied with mean fibre diameter. For Peruvian alpaca fleece samples, cuticle scale frequency varied with the age of alpaca and fleece productivity. Fibre ellipticity increased with increasing fibre diameter. Cortical cell length was strongly related to cortical cell diameter. The cuticle scale morphology of these rare animal fibres did not have fixed dimensions. Using cuticle scale morphology as a diagnostic tool to positively identify rare natural animal fibres needs to standardize measurements for fibre diameter but will still be affected by differences in animal productivity.     

Variation in the softness and fibre curvature of cashmere,alpaca, mohair and other rare animal fibres

Softness of apparel textiles is a major attribute sought by consumers. There is surprisingly little objective information on the softness properties of rare animal fibres, particularly cashmere, alpaca and mohair. Samples of these and other rare animal fibres from different origins of production and processors were objectively measured for fibre diameter, fibre curvature (FC, crimp) and resistance to compression (softness). While there were curvilinear responses of resistance to compression to FC and to mean fibre diameter, FC accounted for much more of the variance in resistance to compression. Fibre type was an important determinant of resistance to compression. The softest fibres were alpaca, mohair and cashgora and all of the fibres measured were softer than most Merino wool. Quivet, llama, camel, guanaco, vicuña, yak wool, bison wool, dehaired cow down and Angora rabbit were also differentiated from alpaca, mohair and cashmere. There were important differences in the softness and FC of cashmere from different origins with cashmere from newer origins of production (Australia, New Zealand and USA) having lower resistance to compression than cashmere from traditional sources of China and Iran. Cashmere from different origins was differentiated on the basis of resistance to compression, FC and fibre diameter. Cashgora was differentiated from cashmere by having a lower FC and lower resistance to compression. There were minority effects of colour and fibre diameter variation on resistance to compression of cashmere. The implications of these findings for the identification and use of softer raw materials are discussed.     

Feltability of cashmere and other rare animal fibres and the effects of nutrition and blending with wool on cashmere feltability

Felting is a unique attribute of animal fibres used for the production of a range of industrial and apparel textiles. Felting can be an adverse attribute as a consequence of dimensional shrinkage during laundering. As there is little objective information regarding the feltability of rare animal fibres or the factors which may affect felting three investigations were undertaken. A survey (n?=?114) of the feltability of cashmere from different origins of production, cashgora, quivet, camel hair, llama, guanaco, bison wool, cow fibre and yak wool quantified the large variation between and within these fibre types. Cashmere from some origins and cashgora produced higher feltball density than the other fibres. Different nutritional management of cashmere goats (n?=?35) showed that cashmere grown by poorly fed goats had a lower propensity to felt compared with cashmere grown by better fed goats. A consequence of the progressive blending of cashmere (n?=?27) with a low propensity to felt superfine wool (high fibre curvature) increased the propensity of the blend to felt, but when the same cashmere was blended with low curvature superfine wool, there was little or no effect on feltability. The mechanisms which lead to variance in feltability of these fibres were quantified with multiple regression modelling. The mechanisms were similar to those reported for wools, namely variations in the resistance to compression, fibre curvature and mean fibre diameter, with likely effects of fibre crimp form. It is possible to source cashmere and other animal fibres which have different propensities to felt and therefore to produce textiles which are likely to have different textile properties.     

Weathering,fibre strength and colour properties of processed white cashmere

Weathering refers to the degradation of wool fibres that occur during growth from exposure of the fleece to sunlight, water and air. Weathering damage to Merino wool reduces quantities of fibre that are harvested, reduces length in both raw and processed wools, reduces spinning performance and dyeing outcomes. This work aimed to aimed to quantify if and to what extent weathering occurred in 38 lots of commercial dehaired white cashmere and cashmere top sourced from traditional and new origins of production and the extent of any association between weathering and tensile strength properties of the dehaired cashmere and cashmere top. The cashmere was tested for physical properties, bundle tenacity and extension, tristimulus values brightness (Y) and yellowness (Y-Z) and reflectance. Dye uptake was used as an index of weathering. Linear models, relating to weathering, bundle tenacity and Y-Z were fitted to origin and other objective measurements. Mean attributes (range) were: mean fibre diameter, 17.0 μm (13.5–21.3?μm); bundle tenacity of tops, 10.3 cN/tex (8.3–12.9?cN/tex), for dehaired fibre, 10.1 cN/tex (9.1–11.4 cN/tex). Stain uptake varied from 0.92 to 6.34 mg/g fibre indicating a six-fold variation in the extent of weathering. Both the extent of weathering and the bundle tenacity of commercial lots of cashmere were affected by the origin of the cashmere. Increased weathering reduced bundle tenacity, bundle extension, increased the yellowness and reduced reflectance of white cashmere. Bundle tenacity of cashmere declined as fibre diameter variability increased from 20 to 22.5%. For the samples tested, the cashmere from China, Mongolia, Afghanistan and Iran showed more weathering than cashmere from Australia, New Zealand and the USA. The differences in the extent of weathering and of bundle tenacity between cashmere from different origins were of commercial significance.     

羊绒、羊毛（改性羊毛）的定性鉴别与定量分析

从羊毛及羊绒的组织结构及物理,化学特性方面的差异进行分析,结合实际生产情况,总结了染色法,着色剂法,溶液鉴别法,电子显微镜观察法等定性与定量鉴别羊毛（改性羊毛）与羊绒的原理和方法。     

羊绒与羊毛的定性鉴别与定量分析

从羊毛及羊绒的组织结构及物理、化学特性方面的差异进行分析，结合实际生产中的一些情况，总结了定性与定量地鉴别羊毛（改性羊毛）与羊绒的原理和方法。     

毛绒类纤维鳞片结构特征鉴别

以羊毛、山羊绒及其它毛绒类纤维作为研究对象 ,采用带显示屏的高放大倍数的显微镜和配置优良的电脑对上述纤维的鳞片结构特征作定性的分析研究。具体工作包括 :样本的制备 ;仪器的配置与调试 ;利用计算机进行鳞片特征提取 ;羊毛、羊绒等各种动物纤维鳞片结构特征比较。     

基于鳞片翘角的羊绒与羊毛识别可行性分析

根据鳞片轮廓的形态,建立求解鳞片翘角与厚度的数学模型,研究了鉴别澳毛与羊绒的可能性和准确性。通过对澳毛和羊绒鳞片翘角和厚度的统计、分布密度函数及其两类错误概率的分析,得出两类错误之和的误判率少于11.3%,为羊绒与澳毛混合体的鉴别提供了又一特征组合指标。     

山羊绒与细羊毛、牦牛绒、驼绒混纺产品中羊绒含量分析的探讨

山羊绒与细羊毛、牦牛绒、驼绒均为角朊蛋白细胞组成,结构特征相似,在测定其混纺产品中羊绒含量具有一定的难度,是检验部门面对的一大难题。本文介绍了动物纤维的结构特点,结合光学显微镜图片围绕着山羊绒与细羊毛、牦牛绒、驼绒的鳞片形态特征的差异,对这几种混纺产品中羊绒含量的定量方法做出探讨。     

Cuticle and cortical cell morphology and the ellipticity of cashmere are affected by nutrition of goats

Cuticle scale edge height and frequency are used to identify animal fibres but exhibit a large range in dimensions, the reasons for which have not been elucidated. Cuticle and cortical cell dimensions along with the ellipticity of fibres were investigated in cashmere samples from a controlled nutrition experiment. Cuticle scale frequency, cuticle thickness, cortical cell dimensions and ellipticity were affected by nutritional treatment, with significant differences between cashmere from goats fed to grow and those which maintained live weight or lost weight. Cuticle scale frequency, cell thickness and ellipticity (contour) varied with fibre diameter, fibre growth rate and the size of the animals. Cuticle thickness and ellipticity were related. Cashmere grown by goats with higher levels of nutrition had longer cortical cells with greater diameter, volume and a higher length:diameter ratio compared with cashmere grown by goats in restricted nutrition treatments. The results show that the fundamental physical structures of cashmere do not have fixed dimensions. The consequences of the variations in cuticle morphology and ellipticity will be variation in surface friction, bending rigidity, softness, lustre, colour attributes, fibre cohesion during processing, felting and wear properties of textiles. There are also important consequences upon the determination of cashmere origin.     

羊绒混纺织物与纯毛织物的服用舒适性分析

文章从舒适的观点分析比较了羊绒／羊毛精混纺织物与纯毛织物的服用性能，并根据羊绒纤维的特性，通过试验对触感舒适和热湿舒适性方面进行了分析。由综合测评结果可知，羊绒混纺织物较之纯毛织物轻柔，手感滑糯，吸湿性和保暖性特别好，弹性好，外观细腻丰满，富有光泽，穿着滑爽舒适。     

不同动物纤维的毡缩性能分析

应用毡缩球法研究了羊毛、马海毛、兔绒、山羊绒、绵羊绒和牦牛绒的毡缩性能.先测量出6种纤维的摩擦因数,然后采用毡缩球法分别测量6种纤维的毡缩性能,分析兔绒与羊毛混纺以及马海毛与羊毛混纺时混合比对纤维毡缩性能的影响.此外,还分析了羊毛和马海毛长度对纤维毡缩性能的影响.得出兔绒与羊毛混纺、马海毛与羊毛混纺时混纺比对混纺纤维毡缩性能的影响规律,以及纤维长度对其毡缩性能的影响规律.     

基于基因技术的羊绒与羊毛纤维定性鉴别方法

随着羊毛改性技术的发展,传统的光学显微镜鉴别羊绒羊毛的方法逐渐显出其局限性。采用基因技术,利用山羊与绵羊之间特定碱基序列的差别,通过PCR扩增、测序,得到各自的DNA碱基序列,从而确定其种属,达到鉴别纤维的目的。文章通过纯羊绒羊毛纤维及不同比例羊绒羊毛混合物线粒体DNA的测序实验,研究了羊绒羊毛的DNA鉴别方法。结果表明：1）基于基因技术的DNA测序方法可以准确定性鉴别极小比例的羊绒羊毛纤维;2）对于纯羊绒羊毛纤维,采用一组引物,即可通过特定位点特征碱基序列组来鉴别;3）对于羊绒羊毛混合物,分别采用羊绒引物和羊毛引物对样品测序,通过查找羊绒羊毛纤维各自的特征序列,鉴别样品中是否含有羊绒或羊毛。     

一种短流程无牵伸聚绒纺纱装置的开发与应用

为解决有机棉、羊绒、精梳落棉、落毛,以及废旧纺织品循环开发利用的再生棉等含有较多超短细柔纤维的原料,在环锭纺装置上纺制细特优质纱线较难的问题,开发了一种新型短流程无牵伸聚绒纺纱装置,该装置包括喂入、梳理除杂、输送集聚及加捻卷绕成型4个部分。与现有的长流程聚绒纺技术相比,工艺流程明显缩短,生产效率大大提升,技术控制参数大量减少。开发的超短细柔聚绒纺纱线兼有环锭纺纱与紧密纺纱特点,成纱质量明显提高。新型短流程无牵伸聚绒纺纱装置已成功用于开发16.5 tex有机棉/精梳落棉/澳毛(50/25/25)聚绒混纺纱。     

利用近红外光谱技术进行羊毛、羊绒鉴别

文章从样品和谱图的采集、原始谱图的处理和校正模型的建立等方面介绍了近红外光谱技术的原理,并根据化学计量统计学理论,介绍了利用近红外光谱技术进行定性定量分析的方法.并由羊毛、羊绒样品初步建立了羊毛、羊绒定性分析模型,对该模型的验证结果表明,该模型可以用来进行羊毛、羊绒的初步鉴别.由于羊毛、羊绒样品采集数量和代表性有限,在将近红外光谱技术用于羊毛、羊绒产品的商品检验之前,还需进一步大量收集样品,建立更为稳定和具有代表性的数据库和数学模型.     

山羊绒纤维的拉伸性能

研究了山羊绒纤维的拉伸性能以及单纱的拉伸松弛性能,并与细支羊毛纤维进行对比。研究结果表明:山羊绒纤维的比强度、拉伸模量,松弛时间高于羊毛;在较小定伸长条件下,山羊绒纱线拉伸应力松弛速率慢于羊毛纱线,即山羊绒纱线比羊毛纱线难定形,这些力学性能的差异是由于山羊绒纤维α-结晶度高于羊毛;在80~130℃干热条件下,山羊绒纱线的拉伸应力松弛速率及其定形率均随温度的提高而提高;当温度高于120℃时,提高不显著。     

羊绒与羊毛的碱溶度差异

对羊绒及羊毛在不同条件 (碱浓度、温度、处理时间 )的 Na OH溶液中的溶解度进行了测试、分析和说明 ,进一步了解碱对羊绒和羊毛不同的作用情况 ,得出了羊绒 /羊毛含量定量分析的条件 ,以便在生产和检验中加以利用。     

羊绒与羊毛直径的水平集中轴线法测量

针对中轴线法测量求取不准确的问题,提出了一种新的水平集中轴线法的羊绒与羊毛直径测量方法。首先对由光学显微镜得到的纤维图像进行处理,包括预处理、区域生长分割和细化,在此基础上采用水平集中轴线法获得光滑、连续、单像素分布的中轴线。并随机抽取100根6个批次的山羊绒、绵羊毛纤维,利用该测量方法对其直径进行测量,计算其平均值,并与真实值进行比较。结果表明,羊绒直径的平均误差为0.29mμm,均方差为0.05,羊毛直径的平均误差为0.37 μm,均方差为0.06。用本文方法测得的羊绒与羊毛直径值与真实直径值极为接近,说明该方法比较准确,且由均方差可知,该算法的鲁棒性也较好。     

山羊绒和绵羊毛混合含量的化学分析方法——DNA分子测定法

为了进一步研究山羊绒和绵羊毛混合比例检测的新方法,经过实际样品的DNA检测,能够初步检测出混合样品的比例,作为新的方法创新,可以弥补物理显微镜检测方法的不足,另外可以减少人为因素所带来的误差等。该方法目前在世界各地都在研究。     

FTIR法测定枸杞中的有效成分

采用傅里叶变换红外光谱法(FTIR)并结合归一化红外光谱图,无损快速地对不同产地和不同品种的枸杞进行多糖、氨基酸及矿物质的对比,不同品种的枸杞均有自己的特征红外光谱吸收,可方便对其有效成分鉴别和区分,表明了青海和宁县、青海同一地区不同品种及青海不同地区枸杞中化学组分之间的差异。