摩擦驻极对聚四氟乙烯纤维非织造布过滤性能的影响

为研究聚四氟乙烯(PTFE)纤维在加工过程中的摩擦效应所产生的静电荷对非织造材料过滤效率的影响机制,制备高效低阻的非织造过滤材料。选取PTFE纤维为原料,经过短纤维梳理、针刺复合制备了不同面密度的PTFE纤维针刺非织造布,测试了摩擦驻极后0~40 d内非织造布的表面静电势以及过滤性能,并分析了针刺非织造布的电荷存储稳定性。结果表明:经过梳理、针刺加工的PTFE纤维非织造布具有很高的过滤效率和较低的过滤阻力;面密度越大,非织造布的表面电势越大,过滤效率越高,面密度为220 g/m2的PTFE纤维摩擦驻极过滤材料对0.26μm颗粒物的过滤效率可达99%以上,并且静电衰减周期较长;水浸泡对静电衰减的影响较小。     

No. 5Vol 42, No. 4, pp. 313–318, 2008A New Water-in-Powder Technology A Novel Structure for Creating Unique Cosmetic Products

A Water-in-Powder cosmetic is one encapsulating a large amount of water with powders. In this study we explain why the cosmetic is possible. First we focused on hydrophilic and hydrophobic balance of nano-sized powder surface. We looked into the surface state of powders with the gas adsorption test and discovered the functional powders that have the optimized balance of hydrorepellency due to fractal surface and hydrophilicity due to free hydroxyl groups. By using this material, we created a new powder technology that can encapsulate a large quantity of water stably. We also looked into how the powders encapsulated water by observation with wet-SEM and how the encapsulated water is stabilized by measuring water mobility with ¹7Q-M\IJR As a result, we developed a new technology with water and powder. By encapsulating a large amount of water, we achieved a cosmetic with many unique characteristics : the powder cosmetic can change into liquid by application of friction on skin, it gives us comfort in use and provides a watery, cool feel. It also provides excellent makeup function by spreading smoothly on skin to form a uniform makeup coating.
Keywords:  water-in-powder, hydrorepellency, hydrophilicity, fractal, encapsulate, technology     

兔毛纤维的酶处理

为了克服兔毛纤维表面光滑、摩擦因数小及其产品容易脱毛的缺点,对兔毛纤维用双氧水(30%)处理后,再配合酶处理工艺,使纤维得到一定的减量率。通过分析蛋白酶含量、酶处理时间对兔毛纤维直径、强度、伸长率、表面摩擦因数的影响,确定合适的酶处理工艺,使兔毛纤维的强度和伸长率变化在尽可能小的情况下,纤维表面形态结构发生改变,从而提高了其表面摩擦因数,增加了纤维之间的抱合力,提高了纤维的可纺性,大大减少了兔毛纺织品的脱毛现象。     

The effect of dephosphorylation and succinylation on the properties of casein proteins adsorbed to the surface of latex particles

Dephosphorylation decreased the absolute zeta potential and diameters of α_S1-casein-coated latex particles. Similar effects were observed for α_S1-casein dephosphorylated prior to or after adsorption. If α_S1-casein adopts a loop arrangement at hydrophobic surfaces, then it appears that dephosphorylation causes the loop to move closer to the surface. Dephosphorylation caused a larger change for particles coated with α_S1-casein than β-casein, whereas small changes were observed for κ-casein, consistent with the phosphorylation levels of these caseins. Succinylation increased the absolute value of zeta potential and the diameters of α_S1-casein-coated latex particles. A higher level of succinylated α_S1-casein was required to saturate the particle surface. It is proposed that succinylated α_S1-casein has the C-terminal region adsorbed to the particle surface and N-terminal region extending from the surface as a hair. Results of this study help explain the effect of dephosphorylation and succinylation on the functional properties of the caseins, particularly in stabilising emulsions.     

Conditioning polymers in today's shampoo formulations - efficacy, mechanism and test methods

Today's shampoo formulations are beyond the stage of pure cleansing of the hair. Additional benefits are expected, e.g. conditioning, smoothing of the hair surface, improvement of combability and lather creaminess. Cationic polymers play an important role in providing many of those features. Therefore, within the last few years their use in shampoos has increased greatly. In the only last two decades, shampoo designation has gradually changed from '2-in-1' to '3-in-1' and then to 'multifunctional', as at present. The consumer demands products which live up to their promises. Modern shampoos contain a wide variety of ingredients such as co-surfactants, vitamins and pro-vitamins, protein derivatives, silicones, natural-based plant extracts and other 'active ingredients', but there is still a need for conditioning polymers. The specific objective of this study is to assess the conditioning efficacy of cationic polymers and to investigate their mechanisms in a shampoo system. The investigations were carried out on formulations that contained sodium lauryl ether sulphate and different cationic polymers, e.g. Polyquaternium 7, 10, 11, cationic guar gum and Luviquat Care (Polyquaternium 44), a new branched copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and quaternized vinylimidazolium salts (QVI). We used test methods relevant to the applications in question, such as combing force measurements, the feel of the hair and the creaminess of the lather, to assess the efficacy. Atomic force microscopy and electrokinetics (streaming potential) were used to detect polymer residues on treated hair. All the polymers under investigation improved the overall performance of the shampoo formulations. This was demonstrated by means of combing force measurements, sensorial tests and analytical methods, namely zeta potential measurement and atomic force microscopy. Polyquaternium 44 exhibited the best conditioning properties on wet hair without sacrificing removability or absence of build-up. The latter are the most striking weaknesses of cationic Guar Gum-based polymers. Polyquaternium 10 can also be removed from the hair after rinsing with anionic surfactant but it does not perform as well as Polyquaternium 44 in the fields of wet combability and sensorial criteria such as lather creaminess and feel of the hair. We postulate that the outstanding properties of Polyquaternium 44 as a conditioning agent for shampoos are due to its tailor-made 'branched' structure. There is a clear correlation between the molecular weight and the efficacy of the new copolymers of VP and QVI. Only cationic polymers with a very high molecular weight are effective as conditioners in shampoos based on anionic surfactants. Surprisingly, they do not have to have a high cationic charge. On the basis of all our results, our postulation is that the polymer residue which is responsible for conditioning does not form a flat layer on the hair. Rather, the polymer residue adsorbs with the few cationic moieties, while the uncharged part of the polymer forms loops, which are orientated away from the hair and which are responsible for the reduced friction between hairs.     

阳离子魔芋葡甘聚糖的制备与表征

以3-氯-2-羟丙基三甲基氯化铵（3-Chloro-2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, HAT）为醚化剂对魔芋葡甘聚糖（konjac glucomannan, KGM）进行改性,制备阳离子魔芋葡甘聚糖（cationic konjac glucomannan, CKGM）,研究反应温度、反应时间、NaOH用量以及HAT用量对CKGM zeta电势的影响,并对CKGM的部分功能性质及其与大豆分离蛋白（soybean protein isolate,SPI）发生静电相互作用的能力进行了初步研究。结果表明,当反应温度为55 ℃、反应时间为1.5 h、NaOH与KGM质量比为2:1、HAT与KGM质量比为2:1时,所得CKGM的zeta电势可达到最大值36.0 mV。与未改性KGM相比,不同电势CKGM的溶解性和乳化能力均有所提高,且当zeta电势分别为36.0 mV和23.3 mV时达到最大值78.0%和22.7%。FTIR分析结果表明在优化条件下KGM中成功引入了-CN基团,SEM观察则表明改性后KGM颗粒的尺寸变小、表面变得皱缩。CKGM可与SPI发生静电相互作用,且当其zeta电势为36.0 mV时相互作用最为强烈。因此,利用HAT改性得到的CKGM具有良好的功能性质且能够与带相反电荷的聚电解质发生相互作用,有望作为一种新型的聚电解质在食品领域获得广泛应用。     

J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 263–289 (July/August 2008)Characterization of curved hair of Japanese women with reference to internal structures and amino acid composition

The variation of hair curvature in Japanese women was quantitatively investigated and the structure of curved hair was characterized with transmission electron microscopy (TEM) and amino acid analysis. Two hundred and thirty Japanese women volunteers, aged from 10 to 70 years, were randomly selected. The evaluation of the volunteers' natural hair shape showed that 53% of Japanese women have straight hair, while the remaining 47% have curved hair (varying from a slightly wavy shape to a frizzy style). The average curl radius of the volunteers' hair was determined to be 4.4 ± 2.3 cm, and ranged widely from 0.6 to 16 cm. The TEM observation of curved hair fiber revealed an inhomogenous internal structure between the outer and inner regions of the curved shape. In relation to the inhomogeneous structure of the curved hair, different amino acid composition of the hair keratin was observed between the outer and inner regions. Interestingly, these results of the TEM observation and the amino acid analysis are analogous to the difference between the ortho-and paracortical cells in wool fibers, suggesting the universal structure of curved mammalian hair.     

尿素对肌原纤维蛋白热诱导凝胶非共价键作用力及特性的影响

研究尿素对肌原纤维蛋白凝胶非共价键作用力和特性的影响及其调控机制,揭示凝胶作用力和特性之间的关系,并探讨通过添加尿素研究凝胶氢键和疏水作用方法的科学性。分别用0.0~0.4 mol/L尿素处理肌原纤维蛋白并加热制成凝胶,用Zeta电位仪测定其静电相互作用;利用拉曼光谱仪测定其疏水相互作用与氢键;用离心法和质构仪测定相应尿素浓度条件下热诱导凝胶的保水性、硬度和弹性。结果表明,随着尿素浓度增大,热诱导凝胶的Zeta电位绝对值由7.83 m V下降到5.55 m V;S_0-ANS从698.5逐渐增大到885.3;I_(760 cm~(-1))/I_(1 003 cm~(-1))由0.957 1降到0.849 3;I_(850 cm~(-1))/I_(830 cm~(-1))先下降后上升;随着尿素浓度增大,凝胶保水性、硬度和弹性都存在下降的现象。相关性分析表明静电相互作用、表面疏水性和疏水相互作用显著影响肌原纤维蛋白热诱导凝胶保水性和质构特性。     

不同品种大豆分离蛋白Zeta电位和粒径分布与表面疏水性的关系

对不同品种大豆分离蛋白(soybean protein isolate,SPI)的表面疏水性、氨基酸组成及溶液的Zeta电位和粒径分布进行分析,探讨蛋白质溶液Zeta电位和粒径分布与表面疏水性的关系。不同品种SPI的表面疏水性由大到小的变化趋势为:东农46皖豆24黑农46五星4中黄13冀NF58,品种差异对SPI的Zeta电位及粒径分布具有显著影响。相关性分析表明,SPI表面疏水性与氨基酸组成无显著相关性,表面疏水性与Zeta电位绝对值呈显著的正相关,与粒径大小呈显著的负相关。当蛋白溶液Zeta电位绝对值较大时,蛋白表面更多同性电荷间的排斥作用会减少蛋白分子的相互聚集,使蛋白溶液趋于稳定,同时降低蛋白质粒径大小。此时,蛋白质疏水基团的内卷程度降低,并更多暴露在分子表面,导致蛋白质表面疏水性增加。     

基于环糊精衍生物的新型双元絮凝/络合体系的研究

本文研究了阳离子改性环糊精和环糊精星形聚合物两种环糊精衍生物与阴离子聚丙烯酰胺共聚物组成的双元絮凝／络合体系对高岭土悬浊液的絮凝作用及其影响因素，同时研究了两种双元体系对甲苯的络合去除作用。研究表明，两种双元絮凝／络合体系同时具备絮凝和吸附功能，都对高岭土悬浊液具有良好的絮凝作用，但环糊精星形聚合物双元体系在用量极低的条件下就可以达到很高的絮凝效率。环糊精星形聚合物对甲苯的去除作用远大于阳离子改性环糊精，两种双元体系组分的加入顺序对甲苯的去除效果影响不大。由于环糊精星形聚合物具有独特的星形臂结构和较高的电荷密度，使其与阴离子组分间的静电相互作用增强，从而极大地促进了絮凝和去除作用。     

No. 4Vol. 42, No. 4, pp. 305–312, 2008The Reaction of Oxidative Hair Dyes in Cuticle Layers

The mechanism of oxidative hair dyes (permanent hair color) in cuticle layers of human hair was studied. In general, it is considered that the oxidative hair dye deposits monomer into the cortex, and is polymerized with coloring in there. It was confirmed that not only cortex but also cuticle layers were dyed with the permanent hair color, through observation with the thin cross-section of the dyed hair. There were exogenous metals in the cuticle layers from tap water etc., and the transition metals increased the dyeing and decreased the bleaching. It was thought that the activity of oxidation reaction with hydrogen peroxide was increased in the cuticle layers, and permeability to the cortex was decreased. Furthermore, TEM findings suggested that the oxidation hair dyes mainly reacted in the β-layer/ δ-layer interface in the cuticle layers, unevenly distributing the metals in the β-layer of cuticular CMC.
Keywords:  hair, oxidative hair dye, hair color, bleach, cuticle, transition metal, ultrastructure, CMC, β-layer, oxidative reaction     

DCCA处理对兔毛纤维性能的影响

为克服兔毛纤维表面光滑、摩擦因数小而导致纤维之间抱合力小,可纺性差的缺点,用Na2CO3对兔毛预处理后,再使用DCCA氯化剂氧化处理工艺,使纤维之间获得一定的抱合力。分析不同质量分数的DCCA对纤维断裂强力、摩擦因数及表面形态的影响,结果表明,在25℃,pH值为4.5左右,处理时间为30 min,浴比为1∶25,DCCA质量分数占所处理纤维质量的1.5%时,纤维表面形态结构发生改变,从而提高了其表面摩擦因数,增加了纤维之间的抱合力,提高了兔毛纤维的可纺性。     

Resistance of human hair cuticle after a shaking process in wet conditions: comparison between Chinese and Caucasian hair

Hair cuticle is the first protection shield of hair against external aggressions such as daily combing or brushing that induce friction, mechanical stress leading to ageing process. The identification of alterations of the hair surface induced by shaking process of various hair fibres, such as virgin and chemically treated Chinese and Caucasian hair, sheds some light on some specific features, e.g. Chinese cuticle is torn out in smaller particles than Caucasian, which seems to be related to geometrical rather than ethnic reasons. The present work also shows that two geometrical parameters of human hair, the inter‐scale distance and the scale angle are directly linked to fibre dimensions, regardless of ethnic origin. Representative of hair with an average larger cross‐sectional area, Chinese hair shows a slightly smaller inter‐scale distance as well as a higher scale angle. On the other hand, Chinese hair cuticle seems to be more sensitive to chemical treatment than Caucasian hair, at least for straightening treatment taken here as an example. Such an approach can be of interest in designing cosmetic products more suited to specific needs of human hair.     

Enhanced substantivity of hyaluronic acid on keratin substrates via polymer complexation

Complexes of glycosaminoglycans and certain cationic polymers have been identified which provide utility in skin and hair care applications. The combination of biologically engineered hyaluronic acid and the cationic cellulose polymer, polyquaternium-10, results in a unique, stable, multifunctional, association complex with enhanced polymer functionality. Complexation of the anionic and cationic polysaccharide polymers renders hyaluronic acid substantive to keratin, as evidenced by zeta potential changes of the surface charge of hair via electrokinetic streaming potential measurements. Radiolabelling techniques show as much as a ten-fold increase in bound hyaluronic acid on hair after water rinsing. The resulting 'enhanced'substantivity of hyaluronic acid, as part of the complex, thus extends the time hyaluronic acid remains in contact with keratinous surfaces, prolonging its humectant, moisturizing and skin-smoothening effects.     

Hair breakage during combing. II. Impact loading and hair breakage

During combing of hair, short fiber fragmentation (<2.5 cm) and longer segment breaks occur by different pathways. Longer fiber breaks most likely occur principally by impact loading. Impact loading causes hair breakage at lower loads than tensile loading, with essentially no increase in strain vs. normal tensile testing, which produces large strain increases. Strain rates in impact loading are more similar to combing rates than rates of extension in tensile loading, and the looped and crossed hair formations in snags fit impact-load breakage better than simple extension of straight/non-crossed hairs in tensile testing. Extension or impacting hair fibers with flaws or damaged hair sections such as damaged wrapped ends produces short fiber fragmentation, while longer segment breaks may be produced in fibers with natural flaws such as fiber twists, cracks, or badly abraded or chemically weakened hair or even knots.     

Development of a water-resistant and detergent-washable powder coated with a stimuli-responsive polymer and its application to suncare products

IFSCC Magazines , 12 (2009) (1) 3–7
It is generally well known that the surface of an inorganic UV-protective powder used in a sunscreen formula is treated with a fatty acid or other hydrophobic chemicals to obtain a high water resistance. Due to the resulting strongly hydrophobic surface, the treatment has a clear drawback in that it allows the sunscreen to leave its base components on the skin after washing with regular soap. Therefore, in this study to develop an intelligent sunscreen formula that has a high water resistance and can be washed away easily with regular soap, we focused on a pH-responsive polymer as the surface-treatment agent for a UV-protective powder. Numerous experiments led to the synthesis of the 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-1-propanesulfonic acid/11-methacrylamidoundecanoic acid (AMPS/MAU) copolymer, which is hydrophobic in acidic to neutral solution and hydrophilic in basic solution. Titanium dioxide subjected to surface treatment was treated with the AMPS/MAU copolymer showed a high pH-responsiveness that was similar to that of the polymer. A W/O-type sunscreen containing the pH-responsive titanium dioxide showed a high water resistance as well as a high washability with regular soap.
Keywords:  Detergent-washable, pH-responsive polymer, pH-responsive powder, sun care product, water-resistant     

Charge density alterations in human hair fibers: an investigation using electrostatic force microscopy

A new method for high-resolution analyses of hair surface charge density under ambient conditions is presented in this paper. Electrostatic force microscopy (EFM) is used here to analyze changes in surface charge density in virgin hair, bleached hair, and hair treated with a cationic polymer. The atomic force microscopy technique is used concomitantly to analyze morphological changes in hair roughness and thickness. The EFM images depict exactly how the polymer is distributed on the surface of the hair fiber. The EFM's powerful analytical tools enabled us to evaluate the varying degrees of interaction between the hair fiber surface charge density and the cationic polymer. The surface charge density and the polymer's distribution in the hair fibers are presented in the light of EFM measurements.     

Evaluation of a novel hybrid polymer in hair treatment

Hydrolyzed proteins and silicones have been widely used and played an important role in hair treatment. Effects on hair, of a newly developed hybrid polymer consisting of hydrolyzed protein, alkyl chain and silicone was investigated. It was clear that the polymer was effective in preventing dyed hair from discoloring and in improving the moisture feel of hair. It was confirmed that the polymer had good substantivity contributing to hair luster, manageability, moisture feel, smoothness and good combability. The above effects were remarkably displayed especially on damaged hair. Furthermore, a sensory test in practical use of shampoo even with the polymer highly diluted supported the above results.     

Liquid crystal colloidal structures for increased silicone deposition efficiency on colour‐treated hair

An approach is described to increase the deposition efficiency of silicone conditioning actives from a shampoo on colour‐treated hair via liquid crystal (LC) colloidal structures, created with a high charge density cationic polymer, poly(diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride) and negatively charged surfactants. LCs are materials existing structurally between the solid crystalline and liquid phases, and several techniques, including polarized light microscopy, small angle X‐Ray analysis, and differential scanning calorimetry, were used to confirm the presence of the LC structures in the shampoo formula. Silicone deposition from the LC‐containing shampoo and a control shampoo was measured on a range of hair substrates, and data from inductively coupled plasma optical emission spectroscopy analysis and ToF‐SIMS imaging illustrate the enhancement in silicone deposition for the LC shampoo on all hair types tested, with the most pronounced enhancement occurring on hair that had undergone oxidative treatments, such as colouring. A model is proposed in which the LC structure deposits from the shampoo onto the hair to: (i) provide ‘slip planes’ along the hair surface for wet conditioning purposes and (ii) form a hydrophobic layer which changes the surface energy of the fibres. This increase in hydrophobicity of the hair surface thereby increases the deposition efficiency of silicone conditioning ingredients. Zeta potential measurements, dynamic absorbency testing analysis and ToF‐SIMS imaging were used to better understand the mechanisms of action. This approach to increasing silicone deposition is an improvement relative to conventional conditioning shampoos, especially for colour‐treated hair.     

Crosslinking of Sericin on air atmospheric plasma treated polyester fabric

Durable and highly hydrophilic polyester fabric was produced by cross-linking Sericin on air-atmospheric plasma treated polyester fabric. Surface change properties were characterized by wettability measurements (water contact angle-WCA and % capillarity), Atomic Force Microscopy and zeta potential measurements. Chemical analyses using TBO dye were carried out to estimate surface functional groups after plasma treatment and Sericin cross-linking. Positive zeta potential values at low pH values, as well as AFM images confirm grafting of Sericin. With Sericin cross-linked onto both cleaned PET and plasma-treated PET, WCA reached that of PET subjected to plasma treatment alone, that is WCA between 40° and 46° compared to 81° for the hydrophobic untreated polyester fabric. However, plasma-treated polyester is readily subjected to aging, while cross-linked Sericin on plasma-treated PET yields a more durable hydrophilic finish with a high capillarity, 85% compared to 39% for Sericin on the untreated PET, and 3% for the untreated PET fabric. Plasma treatment creates chain-scissions at the polymer surface leading to the appearance of polar groups which promote the cross-linking of greater amount of Sericin.