头发与头皮护理的科学基础（Ⅵ）——头皮油脂的特点及调控手段

头皮健康日益成为消费者选择发用产品时的关注重点，而头皮油脂是影响头皮健康的关键因素之一。皮脂本身是头皮屏障的重要组分部分，起着保护皮肤、保存水分、维持皮肤稳态等作用，由皮脂腺分泌。皮脂腺位于真皮层，通过全浆分泌产生皮脂，皮脂腺上存在着大量受体，受多种机制调控，其功能的异常会导致多种皮脂腺疾病，引发一系列的头皮健康问题。本文概述了皮脂和皮脂腺的功能及特点，介绍了当前几种皮脂调控理论，并对皮脂分泌的实验评价方法进行概述，总结了市面上控油产品原料及其机理，旨在为皮脂腺相关功能的皮肤护理问题和控油产品的开发解决提供参考依据。     

常见的活性成分在头皮护理产品的应用

概述了头皮皮脂溢出及头皮屑与头皮屏障功能的相互影响,从解决头皮问题和修复头皮屏障功能角度介绍了几类常用活性成分及其在头皮护理产品中的应用。     

头皮屑与头皮微生态研究进展

介绍了头皮微生态的概念和基本特征;重点阐述了头皮屑与微生物群落的关系,包括头皮屑与真菌、头皮屑与细菌的关系,及头皮真菌与细菌的相互作用,分析了微生物种群影响头皮屑的成因;在此基础上综述了基于头皮微生态调节改善头皮屑问题的若干途径,包括在合成/植物来源去屑剂、口服、外用益生菌、益生元方面的研究进展。头皮微生态研究的进一步深入和发展有望为解决头皮屑问题提供新方向。     

对洗护发产品控油效果评估方法的实质性探讨

文章概述了头皮皮脂的研究现状,在大量的研究成果的基础上,明确了洗护发产品控油效果评估试验过程中的条件,包括志愿者要求、测试时间点、测试流程及测试过程中的注意事项等,并对头皮控油效果评估方法进行了实质性的探讨。     

化妆品 第十一讲 护发梳妆品

人的头发和头皮有油性和干性之分。干燥的头发和头皮是由于衰老、皮脂分泌减少、遗传、内分泌等内在因索和烫发、染发、长期风吹日晒和使用脱脂性强的洗发剂等外在因素所造成。头发脱落的原因很多,非本文范围,不予细述。保护头发要同时保护头皮。头皮屑有干性和油性两种,是头皮的死亡细胞,及皮脂或汗液分泌物、细菌和尘埃的混合物,洗去表皮的死亡细胞,能增进头皮呼吸作用,有利头发健康生长。为防     

头皮微生态与头皮洗护用品研究进展

皮肤微生态指的是由皮肤表面的宿主细胞及分泌物、各类微生物以及所处的微环境组成的生态系统,它们共同维持着皮肤平衡,头皮作为皮肤组成的一部分,也有其对应的微生态系统。很多科研人员在研发头皮洗护用品时,会考虑到维护头皮微生态平衡问题,以便从根本上维持头皮健康。基于以上,本综述对头皮微生态进行了概述,阐述了头皮微生态与头皮洗护用品之间的关系,为头皮微生态友好型洗护用品的研发提供了思路。     

油性敏感皮肤的影响因素与解决方法

综述了油性敏感皮肤的影响因素，提出了从修护皮肤渗透性屏障、控油及抑制皮脂氧化、改善角化异常、调节皮肤微生态、缓解皮肤炎性反应等方向进行护肤品配方开发，以便更好地解决油性敏感肌的皮肤问题，总结未来研究应针对油性敏感肌肤的特点更为精准的设计产品配方，实现精细化护肤。     

中国城市女性敏感头皮的程度及判定方法的比较

调查中国城市女性敏感头皮的程度并比较自述与10Q问卷和3S问卷在评估敏感头皮症状中的差异和一致性.使用自述、3S问卷、10Q问卷3种方法调查中国城市健康女性的敏感头皮的程度及其症状分布,并比较10Q问卷和3S问卷敏感头皮的发生率与自述判定结果的一致性,以及在2种问卷下敏感头皮症状的分布及其一致性.在305名志愿者中,通过自述判定为敏感头皮的有166名(54.4％),10Q问卷判定为敏感头皮的有226名(74.1％),3S问卷判定为敏感头皮的有251名(82.3％).自述、3S问卷、10Q问卷3种方法对于敏感头皮的判断两两之间均有显著一致性(P<0.05).在被调查人群中,3S和10Q2种问卷对5种头皮敏感症状发生率的判断在结果上有显著差异.其中,瘙痒、刺痛、疼痛症状的发生频率在3S问卷结果中显著高于10Q问卷结果,灼烧的发生频率显著低于10Q问卷结果,紧绷症状的出现频率在2种问卷中无显著差异.上海和广州两地的症状分布及发生率与总体趋势一致.敏感人群中,敏感头皮症状的发生率在2种问卷结果中具有显著一致性(Kappa=0.69,P<0.001).自我评估、3S问卷与10Q问卷3种评价方法之间具有显著的一致性,可以作为敏感头皮判断的工具.3S问卷可以用于大样本人群敏感头皮发生率的调查工具,而10Q问卷可以用于判断敏感头皮的评价,可以作为评价头皮敏感人群头皮症状的有效工具和方法.     

头皮护理产品的市场趋势

油脂、菌群、代谢平衡主导着头皮的健康,健康的头皮才能生长出健康亮泽的秀发,头皮健康问题越来越受到人们的关注。本文浅析了造成头皮损伤的原因,探讨了预防头皮损伤和护理头皮的方法。同时,对市场上头皮护理产品进行了简要概述。     

含MER-SCEX的头皮洗护产品组对头皮和面部抗衰功效评价

验证了MER-SCEX具有调节头皮微生态平衡达到头皮抗衰功效,对含有MER-SCEX的头皮洗护产品组采用测试头皮水分含量、头皮油脂含量、头皮发红、减少掉发的方法研究其抗衰功效,同时研究了头皮抗衰与面部肌肤抗衰老间的关联性,开展了头皮抗衰洗护产品组对于人面部抗衰的临床疗效研究。结果表明,该含MER-SCEX的头皮抗衰洗护产品组可以帮助头皮水油平衡,减少头皮炎症和发红,减少掉发;在4周的考察周期中发现头皮护理产品对于面部抗衰也有功效,证明该产品可紧致皮肤,针对性减少前额、外眼角、鼻泪沟部位的皱纹,提高皮肤弹性,细化毛孔等功效。     

去屑洗发产品调查分析

通过对国内去屑类洗发产品现状、去屑剂使用种类及安全性、发展趋势进行调查比较,获得国内去屑类洗发产品去屑剂的使用情况,对健康发展规范化妆品行业提出了监管建议。     

去屑产品的新方向

介绍了头屑形成的原因,包括真菌的增殖、炎症的产生及去屑产品中致痒致干燥成分;综述了去屑产品的新方向,包括使用杀菌剂抑制马拉色菌的过度增殖、添加止痒成分预防头皮炎症的发生、使用具有保湿效果的表面活性剂、使用不易积聚的成分;最后对未来去屑产品的发展趋势进行了展望。     

Vergleichende Lipidmessung an der menschlichen Haut

Comparative Lipid Measurement of Human Skin Two washing emulsions of the same basic recipe, but with different part of refattening are examined with 10 voluntary test persons after washing with aqueous solutions of 2%. The test was double blind with respect to its influence on the sebum secretion of its frontal skin. Two different methods are used for the lipid measurement: 1.the Sebumeter method, 2.the Bentonit method. Both investigation procedures are explained in detail and their correlation concerning the special test is exhibited. Both methods showed clearly that already an addition of the refattening agent olive oil ethoxylate in the range of 1% increases significantly the ratio skin sebum secretion and improves the refattening kinetics.     

Über die Wirkung von Haarwässern auf die Kopfhaut- und Haarlipide unter besonderer Berücksichtigung des Wirkstoffes Dexamethason und der Grundlage Isopropylalkohol

Action of Hair Lotions on Scalp and Hair Lipids with Special Consideration of the Active Substance Dexamethason and Isopropyl Alcohol as the Base Five standardized hair washes have been carried out at weekly intervals on 14 male test persons. In the 2nd and 3rd week 70% isopropyl alcohol was applied as a hair tonic every second day. In the 4th and 5th week the same procedure was followed but 0.01% dexamethasone was added to the isopropyl alcohol. In the 1th, 3rd and 5th week gravimetrical and thin layer chromatographical lipid analyses were performed on the 7th day after hair washing immediately before the next wash. Isopropyl alcohol causes a great decrease in the free fatty acids to the advantage of the triglycerides. Dexamethasone induces a reduction in the epidermal lipids contained in the mixture of scalp and hair lipids. It may thus be assumed that dexamethasone in the above composition is suitable for the treatment of dandruff.     

Analysis of Phenacylester Derivatives of Fatty Acids from Human Skin Surface Sebum by Reversed-Phase HPLC: Chromatographic Mobility as a Function of Physico-Chemical Properties

A set of 13 fatty acids was transformed into their phenacyl esters by reaction with phenacyl bromide in acetonitrile using 18-crown-6 as phase-transfer catalyst. Conditions for the RP-18 HPL chromatographic separation of most of the esters has been worked out. Using this standard the fatty acid spectra from skin surface sebum lipids of 17 test persons was taken after microwave-assisted hydrolysis, neutralization and extraction with n-hexane. Quantitative evaluation of the chromatograms exhibits that oleic acid predominates in the sebum of all test persons. In the second part of the work the chromatographic mobility (R_E values) of fatty acid phenacyl esters is correlated with calculated physico-chemical parameters of the corresponding acids. The best linear correlation was found between the R_E and the logP values. This is helpful for the structural elucidation of un-identified fatty acids in a chromatogram.     

Zur hormonellen Beeinflussung der Talgsekretion

Hormonal Influencing of Sebum Secretion Development and functional performance of sebaceous glands are regulated by hormones. Androgens have a stimulating effect, however, these effects are also influenced by other sexual hormones and biological regulatory substances of adrenal cortex and other organs. Application of hormones can undesirably alter the sebum secretion by either increasing or decreasing the same. These effects can also be therapeutically exploited in skin disorders that are dependent on sebum production. Experimental findings on hormonal influencing of sebum secretion show that hormone-dependent alterations of sebum secretion can improve the tolerance towards body care agents and ointment bases.     

From coffee industry waste materials to skin‐friendly products with improved skin fat levels

Spent coffee grounds (SCG), which are the residue obtained from the treatment of coffee with hot water or steam, can be used for industrial applications, due to the high content in lipids. The cosmetic products might be a suitable application for these types of residues because the barrier properties of the stratum corneum (SC) are largely dependent on the intactness of the lipid lamellae that surrounds the corneocytes. The purpose of this work was to assess the feasibility of using the lipid fraction of SCG extracted with supercritical carbon dioxide in the development of new cosmetic formulations with improved skin lipids (sebum) and hydration. The use of spent coffee lipid extract in cosmetic industry seems to be a suitable approach to recycle the wastes from coffee industry. Emulsion containing 10% of the lipid fraction of SCG (SpentCofOil cream) presented promising characteristics in the improvement of sebum skin levels with a good acceptance by consumers when compared to an emulsion containing 10% w/w of green coffee oil (GreenCofOil cream) and a placebo without coffee oil (NoCofOil cream). Practical applications: In this work, the authors develop and characterize a cream containing 10% of the lipid fraction of SCG extracted with supercritical carbon dioxide with improved skin lipids (sebum) and hydration.     

Characterization of hair lipid images by argon sputter etching-scanning electron microscopy

Hair lipid images, as visualized by argon sputter etching-scanning electron microscopy (ASE-SEM), reveal convex structures with a stitch pattern (SP) at the cell membrane complex (CMC) in the transverse hair plane. Based on interindividual variation, different features of the convex SP were classified into Types 0 to 4 with the corresponding scores 0 to 4. Observations using hair fibers collected from 27 Japanese females revealed significant positive correlations between the scores and the levels of exogenous lipids, which suggests that exogenous lipids internalized at the CMC predominantly constitute the convex SP. Intraindividual variation with different levels of exogenous lipids among hair fibers derived from individual females may be relevant to the uneven physicochemical properties of hair fibers on the scalp. Observations of 380 hair fibers collected from Japanese (Mongoloid), German and American (Caucasoid) females aged 3 to 77 yr demonstrated similar age-related changes in the lipid images, which represent an increase and then a decrease in levels of exogenous lipids with increasing age. This suggests that age-related changes in exogenous lipids are attributable to alterations in sebum excreted during aging and that this elicits age-related changes in physical parameters, which affect human hair texture.     

基于图像分析技术的发用产品去头屑功效定量评价研究

为探讨头屑图像分析技术在发用产品去屑功效定量评价中的应用,采用随机、双盲、自身对照的试验设计,基于半头测试的原则,通过头屑图像分析技术以及头屑分级评分方法,对两种市售香波的去屑效果进行评价。头屑图像分析结果清晰显示出,随着去屑香波A和B使用时间的延长,头屑量均逐渐减少,且香波A的去屑效果明显优于香波B,此结果与分级评分法所得结果一致。研究表明,应用头屑图像分析技术定量评价头屑量的变化,可以直观、准确评价发用产品的去屑效果,同时具有易于标准化、科学客观的优势,具有良好的行业推广前景。     

中药洗发香波的研制及去屑功效研究

研究配制了中药洗发香波并观察其去头屑的功效。通过对比试验筛选出香波主要组分的最佳配比,确定中药洗发香波的配方;通过体外抑菌试验及研究者头皮评估临床评分试验,评价中药洗发香波的去头屑功效。研究得到的中药提取液添加量为12%的洗发香波各项指标均符合行业标准,能抑制细菌、减少头皮屑和改善头皮瘙痒症状。