护发素对头发的修护功效评价方法探讨

为探讨护发素对头发的修护功效评价方法,以体外真发为实验材料,分别采用扫描电镜成像、摩擦性能、梳理性能、单根发丝拉断功、光泽度和蓬松度6个指标对市售3款不同维度修护功效的护发素（A、B、C）进行功效评价。结果显示,护发素A能够明显抚平毛鳞片,显著降低发束的摩擦系数,显著降低干发和湿发的梳理功,显著提升发束光泽度;护发素B能够抚平毛鳞片,显著降低发束的摩擦系数,显著降低干发和湿发的梳理功,显著提升单根发丝拉断功和光泽度;护发素C能够抚平毛鳞片,显著降低发束的摩擦系数,显著降低干发和湿发的梳理功,显著提升光泽度和蓬松度;仪器测试结果均与宣称功效基本一致。扫描电镜成像测试、摩擦性能测试、梳理性能测试、单根发丝拉断功测试、光泽度测试和蓬松度测试结合能有效评价护发素对头发的修护功效;对头发的修护功效评价可以根据发用品特点在不同维度针对性地选择相应的指标进行评价。     

一种源自皮肤护理灵感的发丝保湿技术

<正>干燥的头发需要护理和修复以恢复其保湿性和健康的外观,但头发的保湿作用是通过除了水含量之外的功效来感知的。Hydroviton^? Hair馨丝润可在头发纤维上发挥成膜性使其变得光滑,改善湿发和干发的可梳理性,提升头发柔软度,使毛鳞片的整体排列有序,并通过重新平衡静电荷来有效控制头发体积和毛糙。     

应用于个人清洁护理产品中的新型聚合物调理剂

汽巴(R)赛尔可(R)SC60是丙烯酰胺丙基三甲基氯化铵/丙烯酰胺共聚物,具有很高的分子量和电荷密度,在头发上有很好的直接性(Sunstantivity),与个人护理品中的常用表面活性剂均具有很好的相容性,可应用于透明和不透明配方中,在个人清洁护理品中的加入量仅为0.02%～0.20%赛尔可(R)SC60可大大减少头发的毛鳞片翘起,降低头发的损伤,赋予头发更好的光泽;赛尔可(R)SC60还可以降低头发梳理过程中的梳理力,使头发更加易于梳理;该产品可广泛应用于香波、沐浴露、洗面奶和洗手液等个人清洁产品中,为配方提供优异的调理性.     

一款修护洗发水的功效评价研究

制备一款洗发水,并评价其修护效果。通过仪器检测样品使用前后的毛鳞片状态、头发的梳理性能和光泽度,实验结果表明,此款洗发水对毛鳞片修复、干梳理性和光泽度的改善效果比较明显。33名受试者进行洗发水使用测评,在使用的0 d、14 d和28 d分别用Dermalab Hydration Probe、VapoMeter对头皮水分、TEWL进行测试,结果表明可增加头皮水分含量、减少经皮水分丢失量、增强皮肤屏障,说明该洗发水具有良好的修护功效。     

桑麦芳华洗发露的功效与安全性研究

目的:研究桑麦芳华洗发露的护发功效与安全性。方法 :使用发用化妆品功效检测系统TA-XTPlus检测样品使用前后的头发摩擦力和干湿梳理功,使用分光测色计CM-2600D检测样品使用前后的头发亮度,使用电镜扫描仪检测样品使用前后的毛鳞片状态;32名受试者进行桑麦芳华洗发露使用测评,在使用的0d、14d和28d分别用Corneometer、Sebumeter SM815和Skin pH-meter对头皮水分、头皮油脂和头皮酸碱度进行测试,并对头皮和头发状态进行主观评估。结果 :桑麦芳华洗发露可显著降低头发摩擦力,提高头发亮度,改善干湿梳理功,并对毛鳞片起到修复作用,最终满意度达到69%;可增加头皮含水量,平衡头皮油脂,改善头皮酸碱度至健康范围。结论 :桑麦芳华洗发露对头皮及头发健康有很好的改善效果,是安全高效的护发产品。     

发质损伤的基础研究对发用类产品发展趋势的影响

城市环境的污染、紫外线辐射、烫发剂、漂白剂以及头发的整理(洗发、吹风和梳理)等均会造成头发不同程度的损伤。头发损伤的基础研究就是研究不同物理和化学因素对头发造成损伤的作用机理、了解头发损伤与头发结构与组分的相互关系 ,并从保护头发免受损伤的角度出发探讨发用类产品的发展趋势。     

头发与头皮护理的科学基础（Ⅲ）——头发的力学性能

力学性能的好坏是衡量头发健康与否的重要标准之一。健康的发束，头发力学性能优异，而受损发束会在日常梳理中发生断裂。然而，头发并非单一均质材料，因此对其力学性能进行系统、科学的表征较为复杂。基于此，本文介绍了头发力学性能的测试方法以及拉伸曲线的含义，阐述了头发内部结构和组成对拉伸性能的影响，列举了数种影响头发拉伸性能的因素并分析了市面上几种提升头发拉伸性能的原料及其作用机理，以期对护发产品中具有发丝强韧效果的成分以及新产品的开发提供参考。     

羽毛角蛋白的护发效果研究

采用还原法制备的羽毛角蛋白溶液处理受损头发,研究角蛋白对头发的亲和作用和修复效果.结果表明,角蛋白对头发有良好的亲和作用,并能在受损头发表面形成光滑膜,修复毛小皮鳞片受损处,改善头发的光泽和弹性.头发涂覆角蛋白后,其卷曲保持率明显提高.角蛋白可吸收200～300nm范围内的紫外线,能有效提高头发抗紫外线的能力.     

一种椰子油/硅油乳液对头发护理性能的研究

通过多油相共乳化技术以及核磁共振氢谱(~1HNMR)、飞行时间二次离子质谱(TOF-SIMS)和梳理力等评估方法,研究了4种植物油的渗透性以及在头发护理过程中与硅油的协同效应。结果显示,椰子油具有出色的渗透性,可以和硅油共乳化形成稳定且具有多重护理功效的"三合一"(椰子油,氨端聚二甲基硅氧烷,聚二甲基硅氧烷)乳液。在乳液的应用过程中,椰子油可以有效渗透毛鳞片,从内部提升头发柔韧度;大分子硅油在头发表面铺展后,可使头发具有更顺滑的调理性和轻柔的触感。相比以单独方式添加硅油乳液和椰子油组合,"三合一"乳液在梳理力和感官评估中均表现出更好的协同性。     

中药洗发香波的研制

配制中药洗发香波,并初步探讨其对烫后受损头发的修护效果。用电子显微镜观察其对烫后受损发质的修复作用。结果表明,中药提取液用量为15%时,洗发香波配伍性能和梳理性效果最好,具有改善头发梳理性能,有效修复头发的作用,各项指标均符合行业标准QB/T 1974—2004。     

An Apparatus for Generating Aged Cigarette Smoke for Controlled Human Exposure Studies

Research has shown that cigarette smoke changes chemically and physically after it is released into indoor air, that these changes can increase secondhand smoke (SHS) toxicity, and that acute exposures to even low levels of SHS increase the risk of cardiopulmonary disease. We designed a system to reproduce realistic SHS exposures in the laboratory for use in controlled human exposure studies. We generated cigarette smoke with a smoking machine, diluted it and conducted it through a 6 m³ stainless steel flow reactor at rates equivalent to the upper ranges of normal residential air exchange rates, to create aged cigarette smoke as a model for secondhand cigarette smoke. We observed that approximately 50% of the particle mass deposited within the system and that particle deposition percentage was higher when absorbent materials were placed within the system. The particle size ranges and deposition percentages, coefficients and velocities observed for this smoke aerosol are in good agreement with published values for SHS observed in residences and vehicles. This apparatus also permits the study of the physical and chemical interactions between SHS and indoor surfaces. The apparatus delivers stable aerosol concentrations to a human subject, which will permit accurate analysis of dose-response relationships in studies of the cardiovascular and respiratory effects of SHS exposure.

Copyright 2012 American Association for Aerosol Research     

Cigarette smoke negatively and dose-dependently affects the biosynthetic pathway of the n−3 polyunsaturated fatty acid series in human mammary epithelial cells

Maternal smoking during pregnancy has been associated with a reduced content of n−3 long-chain PUFA (LC-PUFA) in breast milk, thereby reducing the intake of key nutrients by the infants. We postulated that the mammary gland is affected by maternal smoking in the process of n−3 LC-PUFA secretion into milk. This prompted us to investigate the effects of cigarette smoke on the synthesis of n−3 LC-PUFA in vitro by using a line of healthy epithelial cells from the human mammary gland, MCF-10A. Cells were exposed to cigarette smoke under controlled conditions by adding to the medium aliquots of horse serum containing smoke components, as analyzed by GC-MS. The major findings concern the inhibition of both the conversion of the precursor ¹⁴C-ALA (α-linolenic acid) to n−3 LC-PUFA and of the Δ5 desaturation step (assessed by HPLC analysis with radiodetection of n−3 FAME) following exposure to minimal doses of smoke-enriched serum, and the dose-dependent relationship of these effects. The data indicate that exposure to cigarette smoke negatively affects the synthesis of n−3 LC-PUFA from the precursor in mammary gland cells.     

助燃剂对卷烟纸及卷烟烟气的影响研究

通过在卷烟纸上添加柠檬酸的钾、钠、镁和锌盐,采用透气度检测、同步热分析和卷烟烟气检测3种方法,研究卷烟纸助燃剂对卷烟纸和卷烟烟气的影响。结果表明:①4种柠檬酸盐在热态下能够提高卷烟纸的透气度,其中钾盐和钠盐提高的幅度较大;②在卷烟纸热解时,4种金属元素能够降低纤维素的热解活化能,其中钾和钠元素的催化作用较为明显;③在4种柠檬酸盐中,钾盐降焦和降CO的作用最为显著。     

Characterisation of the surface of wool and hair using microscopical and fluorescence probe techniques

Fluorescence probing methods, in combination with light microscopy, were used to image and characterise the hydrophobic surfaces of wool and human hair fibres. When applied from an aqueous dispersion, uncharged lipophilic fluorescent probes displayed a selective affinity for the boundaries of the cuticle cells on the fibre surface. Adsorption generally occurred on the surface of the lower scale emerging from each cell junction. An indication of the fibre surface polarity was given by the fluorescence fine structure of adsorbed pyrene molecules. Treatment of hair with the lipid stain Nile Red produced an unusual diamondshaped pattern (each segment approximately 40 μm in length and 10 μm in width) in areas where the cuticle had been damaged. Cuticle cells isolated from hair fibres showed distinct geometrical features on their surfaces when examined using differential interference contrast microscopy. The results are interpreted to indicate the presence of a residue of lipid-staining material adhering to the cuticle cells of hair, the residue possibly being derived from adhesive material produced at the areas of contact between presumptive cuticle cells during the early stages of cuticle shape differentiation.     

功能纤维对卷烟主流烟气的吸附研究

选取牛奶蛋白纤维、聚乙烯醇纤维和海藻纤维3种功能纤维,分别植入卷烟滤嘴轴心位置制得中线滤棒并应用到卷烟中;分析了3种纤维的比表面积、微观形态和表面官能团;研究了3种纤维对卷烟主流烟气中有害成分的吸附效果,并进行了感官质量评价。结果表明:3种纤维的比表面积、微观结构和表面官能团有较大差异,海藻纤维具有较大的比表面积和沟槽结构,且酸性官能团较多显酸性,可以有效对卷烟主流烟气进行物理吸附;海藻纤维可以有效降低卷烟主流烟气中的苯酚和N-亚硝胺含量,降幅分别为49.4%和28.4%;海藻纤维应用到卷烟滤嘴中,可以与卷烟香气保持谐调,降低刺激性,改善卷烟的抽吸品质,可以作为降低主流烟气成分释放量的滤嘴用新材料。     

Distribution of Glycolipid and Unsaturated Fatty Acids in Human Hair

It has been recognized that human hair lipids play crucial roles in the integrity of cells and matrices, while the details of distribution and structure of the minor lipids are hardly known. Here we investigated the lipids at the hair surface, at the interface between cuticle and cortex and in the interior of hair (cortex, medulla and melanin granules). Hair lipids and fatty acids and their metabolites were detected and characterized by using infrared spectroscopy and several mass spectrometry techniques (FTIR, ToF–SIMS, GCMS, and ESI–MS). As a result, it was found that unsaturated fatty acids were present more in the cortex of hair than at the hair surface. At the interface between cuticle and cortex, it is suggested that steryl glycoside‐like lipids containing N‐acetylglucosamine were present, and contributing to the adhesion between the cuticle and cortex of hair. Oxidative metabolites derived from integral fatty acids such as linoleic and alpha‐linolenic acids were found in the hair bulb and melanin granules. Especially the oxidative metabolites of alpha‐linolenic acid were integrated into the lipids non‐covalently and tightly bound to melanin granules (namely, melanin lipids) and suggested as being involved in the biosynthetic processes of melanosome.     

Embryonic Exposure to Cigarette Smoke Extract Impedes Skeletal Development and Evokes Craniofacial Defects in Zebrafish

Exposure to cigarette smoke represents the largest source of preventable death and disease in the United States. This may be in part due to the nature of the delayed harmful effects as well as the lack of awareness of the scope of harm presented by these products. The presence of “light” versions further clouds the harmful effects of tobacco products. While active smoking in expectant mothers may be reduced by educational and outreach campaigns, exposure to secondhand smoke is often involuntary yet may harm the developing embryo. In this study, we show that the main component of secondhand smoke, sidestream cigarette smoke, from several brands, including harm-reduction versions, triggered unsuccessful hatching at 3 dpf and reduced overall survival at 6 dpf in developing zebrafish. At non-lethal concentrations, craniofacial defects with different severity based on the cigarette smoke extract were noted by 6 dpf. All tested products, including harm-reduction products, significantly impacted cartilage formation and/or bone mineralization in zebrafish embryos, independent of whether the bones/cartilage formed from the mesoderm or neural crest. Together, these results in a model system often used to detect embryonic malformations imply that exposure of a woman to secondhand smoke while pregnant may lead to mineralization issues in the skeleton of her newborn, ultimately adding a direct in utero association to the increased fracture risk observed in children of mothers exposed to cigarette smoke.     

色谱法分析烟草生物碱及其代谢物的研究进展

介绍了近10多a来烟碱的分析测定情况,归纳整理了国内外主要杂志报道的有关烟草、卷烟及其烟气、头发、血液、尿等中烟草生物碱及其代谢物的色谱分析方法,并对烟草生物碱及其代谢物的色谱分析方法及其发展前景进行了评述。     

Size and Generation Rate of Sidestream Cigarette Smoke Particles

Sidestream cigarette smoke generated using an automatic smoking machine (SEM-II) and Kentucky 2R1 reference cigarettes was analyzed for particle generation rate and size distribution. Part of the sidestream smoke was sampled with an Andersen Cascade Impactor, following dilution with about 29 to 54 liters/min of laboratory air. The remaining sidestream smoke was further diluted 1,000-fold with vapor phase from filtered sidestream smoke before analysis with an Electrical Aerosol Analyzer and Condensation Nuclei Counter. The smoking parameters of primary dilution ratio and puff pressure were varied in the experiments. The number median diameter of sidestream cigarette smoke was about 0.10 μm, and the mass median diameter was typically 0.16 μm, about half the size of fresh mainstream smoke. Additionally, the size distribution of sidestream smoke was significantly broader than that of mainstream smoke. The particle generation rate of sidestream smoke depended on smoking conditions and varied from 1.4 × 10⁹ to 3.9 × 10⁹ particles/s. The equivalent total particulate matter of sidestream smoke based on the Electrical Aerosol Analyzer measurements varied from 1.3 to 2.3 mg/cigarette, whereas it was 6.0 to 9.6 mg/cigarette based on the Andersen Cascade determinations. Reasons for these differences are not definitive at this time.