Whitening effect of α‐bisabolol in Asian women subjects

Although skin pigmentation, which results from the production and distribution of melanin in the epidermis, is the major physiological defence against solar irradiation, hyperpigmentation is a common and distressing problem caused by various inflammatory skin disorders, such as eczema, allergic contact dermatitis and irritant contact dermatitis. We evaluated the effects of a preparation containing α‐bisabolol on pigmented skin of a group of subjects. The effectiveness of the active compound, α‐bisabolol, in a base‐cream preparation for the treatment of pigmented skin was tested on 28 female subjects as follows: the cream was applied once a day to the back for 8 weeks. These same women also applied a vehicle control cream to the pigmented skin. The results were evaluated by clinical and biophysical test methods. After 8 weeks of treatment of the α‐bisabolol‐containing cream, there was significant lightening effect in the pigmented skin for the majority of the subjects who tested the cream.     

Allergic and toxic reactions caused by cream bases in dermatological patients

Irritant and allergic reactions from cream bases observed in eczema patients are reviewed. The frequency of allergic reactions to the ingredients of vehicles in eczema patients is an indication of allergic potential for normal skin. Against this background, hypoallergenic fragrances are still very difficult to produce and a proper mixture for epicutaneous testing is lacking. Among preservatives, parabens are obviously safer and less allergenic than chlorocresol and sorbic acid. Propylene glycol (PG) is very popular for its many beneficial properties. However, it is also an irritant and a sensitiser. The exact number of allergic delayed type reactions is difficult to establish because primary irritant epicutaneous test reactions often closely resemble allergic reactions. By doing epicutaneous tests with serial dilutions of PG and by making peroral challenge tests, the number of eczema patients allergic to PG has been estimated to be as high as 1%. Glycerol is much less active in producing toxic and allergic skin reactions. Common non-ionic emulsifiers and higher fatty alcohols cause allergic contact dermatitis occasionally. The allergenic properties of these substances have not yet been examined experimentally. It seems, however, that there are only small differences between the various emulsifying agents. Les allergies et réactions de toxicité causées par les constituants des crèmes sur les sujets atteints de dermatoses     

Hand hygiene compliance and irritant dermatitis: a juxtaposition of healthcare issues

Reduction and prevention of health care-associated infections is a worldwide priority with emphasis on increasing hand hygiene compliance. Repetitive exposure to hand hygiene products and procedures is a significant factor in the development of occupational irritant hand dermatitis. Compliance has been difficult to achieve often due to skin irritation. The introduction of alcohol hand rubs has positively influenced compliance but rates remain lower than required. Genetic and environmental factors to the frequency and severity of irritant contact dermatitis have been identified. Because of the skin's role in innate immunity, maintenance of epidermal integrity is a key strategy for reducing health care-associated infections. In this review, we examine the interdependence of the two issues and the challenges of simultaneously accomplishing both goals. We emphasize research conducted among healthcare workers in their clinical settings. The factors that influence skin integrity and the challenges in meeting both goals simultaneously are explored. Cosmetic scientists have played key roles in the development of improved skin care products, and the issues present an excellent opportunity for them to provide potentially life-saving contributions to health care.     

Availability and Utilization of Pigments from Microalgae

Microalgae are the major photosynthesizers on earth and produce important pigments that include chlorophyll a, b and c, β-carotene, astaxanthin, xanthophylls, and phycobiliproteins. Presently, synthetic colorants are used in food, cosmetic, nutraceutical, and pharmaceutical industries. However, due to problems associated with the harmful effects of synthetic colorants, exploitation of microalgal pigments as a source of natural colors becomes an attractive option. There are various factors such as nutrient availability, salinity, pH, temperature, light wavelength, and light intensity that affect pigment production in microalgae. This paper reviews the availability and characteristics of microalgal pigments, factors affecting pigment production, and the application of pigments produced from microalgae. The potential of microalgal pigments as a source of natural colors is enormous as an alternative to synthetic coloring agents, which has limited applications due to regulatory practice for health reasons.     

Cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics: current use and future prospects

Cinnamic acid derivatives are widely used in cosmetics and possess various functions. This group of compounds includes both naturally occurring and synthetic substances. On the basis of the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng) and available literature, this review summarizes their functions in cosmetics, including their physicochemical and biological properties as well as reported adverse effects. A perfuming function is typical of many derivatives of cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, dihydrocinnamyl alcohol and cinnamic acid itself; these substances are commonly used in cosmetics all over the world. Some of them show allergic and photoallergic potential, resulting in restrictions in maximum concentrations and/or a requirement to indicate the presence of some substances in the list of ingredients when their concentrations exceed certain fixed values in a cosmetic product. Another important function of cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics is UV protection. Ester derivatives such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate), isoamyl p‐methoxycinnamte (amiloxiate), octocrylene and cinoxate are used in cosmetics all over the world as UV filters. However, their maximum concentrations in cosmetic products are restricted due to their adverse effects, which include contact and a photocontact allergies, phototoxic contact dermatitis, contact dermatitis, estrogenic modulation and generation of reactive oxygen species. Other rarely utilized functions of cinnamic acid derivatives are as an antioxidant, in skin conditioning, hair conditioning, as a tonic and in antimicrobial activities. Moreover, some currently investigated natural and synthetic derivatives of cinnamic acid have shown skin lightening and anti‐ageing properties. Some of them may become new cosmetic ingredients in the future. In particular, 4‐hydroxycinnamic acid, which is currently indexed as a skin‐conditioning cosmetics ingredient, has been widely tested in vitro and in vivo as a new drug candidate for the treatment of hyperpigmentation.     

Dermatology and the cosmetic industry

Co-operation between the cosmetic industry and dermatology is essential for identifying potentially hazardous substances and ensuring optimal product safety. With dermatological consultation, epidemiological surveys of patients or employees in the cosmetic, toiletry or chemical industry provide useful information to distinguish product-induced or occupational dermatitis from other types of contact dermatitis or constitutional disease (such as psoriasis, lichen planus, or disorders of collagen or immune response). Some examples of the inherent complexities of this process and the solutions that have been achieved are presented. Care is necessary by dermatologists and cosmetic scientists in carrying out controlled use trials and interpreting patch test results in the search for an offending ingredient. Some medical conditions and treatment regimens of the patient/consumer that may affect the response to a cosmetic ingredient are mentioned.
La dermatologie et l'industrie cosmétique     

Significance of hair‐dye base‐induced sensory irritation

Oxidation hair ‐ dyes, which are the principal hair ‐ dyes, sometimes induce painful sensory irritation of the scalp caused by the combination of highly reactive substances, such as hydrogen peroxide and alkali agents. Although many cases of severe facial and scalp dermatitis have been reported following the use of hair ‐ dyes, sensory irritation caused by contact of the hair ‐ dye with the skin has not been reported clearly. In this study, we used a self‐assessment questionnaire to measure the sensory irritation in various regions of the body caused by two model hair‐dye bases that contained different amounts of alkali agents without dyes. Moreover, the occipital region was found as an alternative region of the scalp to test for sensory irritation of the hair‐dye bases. We used this region to evaluate the relationship of sensitivity with skin properties, such as trans‐epidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum water content, sebum amount, surface temperature, current perception threshold (CPT), catalase activities in tape‐stripped skin and sensory irritation score with the model hair‐dye bases. The hair‐dye sensitive group showed higher TEWL, a lower sebum amount, a lower surface temperature and higher catalase activity than the insensitive group, and was similar to that of damaged skin. These results suggest that sensory irritation caused by hair ‐ dye could occur easily on the damaged dry scalp, as that caused by skin cosmetics reported previously.     

Histamine determination in tears as an index of safety in use of cosmetic products

To assess ocular irritancy caused by chemical and cosmetic products a reliable method based on evaluation of histamine (Hm) in tears is presented. Hm is measured at picomole levels by HPLC and fluorimetric detection after fluorescamine-HM derivatization. In order to avoid any uncontrolled irritation and stimulation of the conjunctiva during sample collection, a procedure of conjunctiva lavage was developed. A balanced salt solution (50 μl) containing a known amount of Hm-fluorophore as reference standard is instilled in the conjunctiva fornix. After a few seconds 20 μl of tear fluid is collected: 10 μl are immediately analysed and 10 μl after derivatization reaction. In this way it is possible to evaluate tear dilution and to assess Hm content in less than 10 minutes.
In a group of 20 normal subjects Hm has been determined in comparison with that of two volunteers after topical application of 50 μ of 0.2% and 0.4% sodium lauryl sulphate solution. A contact of 30 seconds of the cosmetic ingredient caused an immediate dose-dependent Hm release through a direct cytotoxic damage of cell membranes due to the surfactant action.
Évaluation de l'irritation occulaire due aux cosmétiques par la détermination de l'histamine lacrimale     

Analytical Methods for Enzyme and DPPH Radical Scavenging Activities of Natural Pigments from Some Plants

The enzyme activities in different fractions of Dioscorea japonica Thunb. and 1,1-diphenyl-2-picryl hydrazyl radical scavenging activity in 15 natural plant pigments from black rice, purple sweet potato, yellow bitter melon, yellow paprika, red cabbage, yellow gardenia, blue gardenia, Chinese foxglove, mulberry leave, onion peel, grape peel, mulberry, red beet, gromwell, and cactus were determined. The antioxidant activity in the cosmetic composition of mulberry leaves, grape peel, mulberry, and red cabbage pigments was relatively high in comparison with all other studied plants. Enzyme activities in investigated plants were evaluated as superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and ascorbate peroxidase (APX). The cosmetic composition of mulberry leaf pigment had the highest SOD enzyme activity of 67.1% while onion peel pigment showed the lowest SOD enzyme activity of 15.3%. The activity of CAT and APX from cosmetic composition of natural plant pigments has also been investigated. Both CAT and APX showed higher values in the cactus, mulberry, and red cabbage cosmetic compositions in comparison with other plant pigments. The cosmetic composition in EtOAc extract of D. japonica Thunb. had the highest SOD enzyme activity while the BuOH and EtOH extracts were comparatively low. CAT and APX activities showed significantly high values in EtOH and EtOAc extracts. The antioxidant enzyme activities of D. japonica Thunb. differ significantly in different plant pigments during their extraction. In conclusion, we showed that the plant pigments and D. japonica Thunb. had the potent biological activities. Therefore, these plant resources having anti-aging components could be good materials for development of source of natural cosmetics.     

The function of polyglyceryl erucate/isostearate/ricinoleate

Today, it is said that the formula design of cosmetics from ingredients of plant origin is an indispensable way and trend. From this consideration, cosmetic materials made from animal and synthetic petroleum ingredients are becoming less usable. Instead, cosmetic materials are designed from ingredients of plant origin and many and various botanical ingredients are being developed. Lanolin, which is one of the animal-based ingredients, is said to have ideal functions as a cosmetic oil, and it has been used in many fields such as make-up cosmetics as well as hair and skin care products for a long time. However, unfortunately, lanolin is an animal-based ingredient; therefore, the development of a botanical ingredient to replace lanolin was desired. Polyglyceryl-8 decaerucate/isostearate/ricinoleate, which we have developed, is an ester oil originating from plants and has an equivalent or higher function than lanolin. We have confirmed that our developed ester oil has various excellent characteristics such as a water-holding capability 2.5 times higher than that of lanolin, high air permeability, moisture keeping in dermal layers, protection of hair from changes in external environmental humidity, and excellent gloss and excellent dispersability of pigments. Thus, this newly developed ester oil is expected to be a promising new botanical cosmetic ingredient which can be applied in various fields.     

Transport and interaction of cosmetic product material within the ocular surface: Beauty and the beastly symptoms of toxic tears

Eye cosmetics such as mascara, eye shadow and eyeliner are used extensively to highlight the eyes, and are normally applied external to the ocular surface. Adverse reactions of cosmetics within the ocular surface include mild discomfort, eyelid dermatitis, pre-corneal tear film instability, and keratitis. These are attributed mainly to the preservative (benzalkonium chloride (BAC)) constituent of cosmetic product material (CPM).Transport of CPM from an external environment to any location on the ocular surface, essentially precedes the adverse interactions occurring at the location, and the control of these transport modes is therefore of clinical relevance.The inter-transport of CPM across the TF occurs due to both diffusion and drift processes. Diffusion of neutral species is driven by concentration gradients, and the drift of cationic BAC is influenced by the inherent electric field; determined by the distribution of the various ions secreted into the aqueous layer, and the negative glycocalyx charge at the mucin layer.In the presence of mucin deficiency, the corneal epithelium is exposed to invasion by both incident BAC and lipophilic species. The transport of cationic BAC across the TF may be controlled by regulating the secretion of various electrolytes at the lacrimal gland. This is of clinical significance in reducing corneal epithelial adverse effects. However, the risks of adverse effects at the corneal surface due to invasion by the lipophilic species remain. Patients with mucin deficiency, and especially those on eye ointment/drops medication, should be discouraged from using cosmetics in a way likely to contaminate the TF.     

Routine patch testing with the preservative system Kathon CG

Of 1620 patients routinely patch tested with Kathon CG 100 p.p.m. aqua for suspected allergic contact dermatitis, 81 (5.0%) had a positive reaction. Sixty-two reactions (3.8%) were relevant for the dermatitis for which the patient consulted the dermatologist. Most patients were females who presented with dermatitis of the hands and/or face. Forty-six per cent of the patients had become sensitized by using cosmetic products on healthy skin. The other 54% had pre-existing dermatitis, especially atopic dermatitis and irritant dermatitis. Most reactions were caused by moisturizing creams.     

Fragrance raw materials and essential oils can reduce prostaglandin E(2) formation in keratinocytes and reconstituted human epidermis

Essential oils and certain perfumery raw materials exhibit a wide range of beneficial biological activities. Besides the antimicrobial and antioxidant activity, the anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant effects are most often cited. One specific mode of action is the reduction of the formation of the key mediator prostaglandin E(2) (PGE(2)). To study this activity in detail and to create cosmetically useful fragrances with the potential to reduce a key marker of skin irritancy in keratinocytes, an initial screening with pig blood platelets was conducted on 900 perfumery raw materials. Active compounds were then validated in a human keratinocyte cell line. Compounds which successfully reduced PGE(2) formation in this assay were used for the creation of active fragrances. These final fragrances reduced PGE(2) formation by >80% when dosed at 0.8 mug mL(-1) to keratinocytes. Application of such a fragrance in a hydrogel allowed reduction of UVB-induced PGE(2) formation in reconstituted epidermis (MatTec EpiDerm(TM)). Similarly, antiperspirant-induced formation of PGE(2) in reconstituted epidermis was reduced to background levels if these novel fragrances were used in the antiperspirant formulation. In conclusion, fragrances with this added cosmetic benefit can be created based on a database from a comprehensive screening. These fragrances may find use as a part of a formulation strategy optimizing each part of a cosmetic formulation for optimal product mildness.     

Analysis of pigmented polymers in red wine by reverse phase HPLC

A reverse phase HPLC method has been developed for the quantitative analysis of pigmented poly-phenolic polymers in red wines. Pigmented polymers were well separated from anthocyanins and other simple wine pigments and eluted last as a single peak. The polymeric and polyphenolic nature of this peak was confirmed by its precipitation with gelatine and its behaviour during ultrafiltration and chromato-graphy on Sephadex LH20. This method correlates well with spectrophotometric measures of total pigmented polymers and indices of wine age. The proportion of the pigmented material incorporated into polymers increased with increasing wine age.     

高效液相色谱法测定8 个彩色马铃薯品种中花青素种类和含量

采用高效液相色谱法,以表皮和薯肉为研究对象,定量分析8 个彩色马铃薯品种块茎中花青素的种类和含量。研究发现,彩色马铃薯块茎中最多含有6 种花青素,即飞燕草色素、矢车菊色素、矮牵牛色素、天竺葵色素、芍药色素和锦葵色素。紫色马铃薯块茎中主要花青素为矮牵牛色素、芍药色素和锦葵色素,红色马铃薯块茎中主要花青素是天竺葵色素和芍药色素。飞燕草色素和芍药色素广泛存在于彩色马铃薯（紫色和红色）块茎的表皮中,而红色马铃薯块茎中未检测到锦葵色素。品种之间差异显著（P＜0.05）,其中紫云1号的总花青素含量最高。块茎表皮的花青素含量约是薯肉的6～176 倍,且大部分品种的表皮花青素种类比薯肉多。彩色马铃薯块茎的表皮富含丰富的花青素,是天然色素和抗氧化剂的重要来源。     

Mascaras may cause irritant contact dermatitis

The majority of adverse effects of cosmetics have been attributed to soaps in Dutch and English studies, but to eye makeup in a recent Swedish study. The reactions may be caused by irritants or by sensitizing substances. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the irritation potential of commercially available mascaras. The mascaras were exposed to the skin in aluminium chambers. The skin reaction was evaluated using both visual assessments of erythema and non-invasive measurements of the skin reaction. Seven mascaras were tested on 15 healthy individuals in a randomized and blinded fashion. Two of the seven tested mascaras induced pronounced skin inflammation, when applied to normal skin under occlusion. These two mascaras were based on volatile petroleum distillate, in contrast to the other five mascaras that were conventional emulsions with stearate as the main emulsifier. The findings suggest that solvent-based mascaras might induce contact dermatitis due to its content of irritating substances.     

A novel polymer anti-irritant barrier film for cosmetics

Currently, we encounter many chemical substances that can affect the skin through contact in our daily life. To keep these irritants away from us, it is very effective to create a dermal barrier film that can prevent penetration of irritants into the skin. For the purpose, we evaluated the permeation characteristics of currently available film-forming polymers, but almost all were found ineffective as barriers. Our investigation led us to fluoroalkylacrylate–polyglycolmethacrylate–alkylmethacrylate–copolymer (F–copolymer), a new acrylic copolymer. This polymer is soluble in water and can easily be incorporated into various cosmetic products. It consists of hydrophilic and lipophilic groups with fluorine units, and forms a durable, continuous film that is resistant to both water and oil upon drying. Testing on human subjects has demonstrated F-copolymer's effectiveness in countering irritation caused by water-soluble materials, including methyl paraben, lactic acid, and oil-soluble materials, like butyl paraben and methyl saricylate.     

Evaluation for collagen products for cosmetic application

The assessment of ocular irritation potential is an important part of safety testing for cosmetic and consumer products. The purpose of this investigation was to examine ocular irritancy levels elicited in humans by various categories of a specific class of cosmetic and consumer products that have a potential to enter the eye inadvertently during use. Test materials assessed belonged to one of seven categories, which included liquid make-up, shampoo, baby wash, mascara, eye make-up remover, powder eye shadow, and facial cleanser. These test materials were evaluated by human ocular instillation, followed by examinations, for which subjective perceptions of irritation were recorded, and component areas of ocular tissues were individually examined for inflammation and for the area and density of fluorescein staining patterns at 30 s and at 5, 15, 60, and 120 min post-instillation. Subjective and objective ocular irritation scores of 410 eyes were analyzed by product classification. Average score levels were determined for subjective responses, inflammation, and fluorescein staining patterns. This investigation determined that irritation levels of the evaluated test materials varied markedly with respect to product category, type of ocular irritation, and ocular tissue, demonstrating that these factors are important considerations for the prediction of the ocular irritancy of a test material.     

Topical formulation of a new plant extract complex with refirming properties. Clinical and non-invasive evaluation in a double-blind trial

We tested an OTC formulation versus placebo in a double-blind trial to evaluate its ability to improve elasticity and firmness of the skin. The clinical non-invasive evaluation in 20 volunteers shows: 1. No adverse reactions such as itching or irritation 2. Efficacy and cosmetic acceptibility of the test cream 3. An increase in electrical capacitance (moisture content) even though without statistical significance. This result is not surprising because the patients had healthy skin and were relatively young (aged 20-25) 4. A very significant improvement in the biomechanical properties (extensibility and firmness) of the skin. This increase was statistically significant (P < 0.02) The main components of the cream (boswellic acids, Sylibin and Centella asiatica extracts) were formulated as complexes with lyso-phospholipids and soya bean non-saponifiable lipids.     

Analysis of pigmentation in human skin: quantification of ultraviolet ray images by digital image processing

A new method for quantifying pigmentation with transformation of ultraviolet ray images into digital images has been developed. Utilizing this method, the distribution of pigments deposited in healthy Japanese subjects has been investigated. The following characteristics of pigmentations have now been obtained as follows:
— the amount of total pigmentation areas and the frequency of appearance of large pigmented areas increase with ageing;
— in young and middle age groups, women have more pigmentation than men, whereas in old age, this trend is reversed;
— the amount of pigmentation is greatest on the front of the cheeks and the least on the forehead;
— pigmentation areas darken in summer, and the amount of pigmentation and number of pigmented areas increase in summer.
Interestingly enough, a correlation between 'ultraviolet rays in daily life' and 'the pigmentation in human skin' is strongly suggested.