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1.
Afin de reprendre l'hypothèse selon laquelle l'absorption de l'eau par le stratum corneum est un phénomène osmotique et afin de d'effectuer des études, in vitro , de la biophysique de la diffusion de l'eau par osmose, nous avons mis au point un Modèle Osmotique de Cornéocyte (MOC), qui est constitué par de la kératine isolée par une membrane semi-perméable.
Immeré dans de l'eau, le MOC voit sa masse augmenter. En effet, bien qu'insoluble, la kératine est hydrophile et en accord avec le Deuxième principe de la thermodynamique, elle fait diffuser par osmose, de l'eau vers l'intérieur du MOC.
A saturation, l'eau absorbée représente 13 fois la masse de kératine.
La diffusion s'effectue selon une cinétique classique: la masse de l'eau qui pénètre est proportionelle à la racine carrée du temps.
Les éléments constitutifs du Facteur Naturel d'Hydratation comme l'urée, l'acide lactique, l'acide pyrrolidone carboxylique, accroissent la vitesse de diffusion et la quantité totale d'eau absorbée. Un humectant comme la glycérine produit un effet semblable. L'urée est le composé qui donne les meilleures performances.
L'accroissement de la vitesse de diffusion par osmose dans le MOC en présence de composés hydratants peut s'interpréter comme un accroissement de l'hydrophilie de la kératine induite par ces composés.
Le MOC semble pouvoir permettre, outre une étude théorique sur le phénomène osmotique dans le stratum corneum , des études préliminaires in vitro des produits hydratants hydrosolubles utilisables en cosmétologie.  相似文献   

2.
There are indications of elevation of some inflammatory serine proteases in barrier damaged skin (e.g. plasmin and urokinase). Moreover, many other serine protease activities are present such as desquamatory enzymes as well as a newly detected tryptase‐like serine protease. However, the activities of these proteases have never been correlated with stratum corneum (SC) barrier function. The activity of extractable key serine proteases (SC trypsin‐like kallikreins, SC chymotrypsin‐like kallikreins, SC tryptase‐like serine protease, urokinase and plasmin) was measured from the outermost layers of SC obtained from facial tape strippings in clinically normal subjects. The protein content of the tape strippings was quantified by absorption measurements with the novel infrared densitometer SquameScanTM 850A and the protease activities by the use of fluorogenic peptide substrates. SC barrier function, SC hydration and skin surface pH were measured using AquaFluxTM, NOVA dermal phase meter and Skin‐pH‐Meter®, respectively. As expected, SC hydration was reduced with increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values indicative of barrier impairment. Surprisingly, SC chymotrypsin‐like activity showed no correlation with hydration or TEWL, whereas all other enzymes positively correlated with impaired barrier function and some were statistically significant: SC trypsin‐like kallikreins (R2 = 0.66, P < 0.01), SC tryptase‐like enzyme (R2 = 0.95, P < 0.001), plasmin (R2 = 0.86, P < 0.001) and urokinase (R2 = 0.50, P < 0.05). All enzymes except urokinase also negatively correlated with SC hydration. Elevated levels of SC serine proteases have been associated with some dermatological disorders, such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and rosacea but these results indicate that these enzymes are also elevated with milder forms of barrier disruption, which is not clinically evident as irritated skin. As these proteases are elevated in the SC, they will also be elevated in the epidermis where they can be involved in neurogenic inflammation and epidermal barrier impairment via activation of the protease‐activated receptors. These results highlight the need for using serine protease inhibitors especially for urokinase and plasmin, SC tryptase‐like serine protease and possibly SC trypsin‐like kallikreins even in milder forms of barrier damage.  相似文献   

3.
Vichy spa water is essentially known for its therapeutic action on liver and bile duct functions. Its mechanism of action may be partially explained by the activation of certain digestive enzymes. A literature survey showed that Vichy water has also been used for local application in the treatment of certain dermatoses. Based on these data, the effects of Vichy spa water on the skin were studied using cutaneous enzymatic systems. The first studies were carried out on catalase, an oxidoreductase. The results showed a statistically significant increase ( p <0.05) in the activity of the enzyme in the presence of Vichy spa water both in vitro and in vivo. Considering the involvement of catalase in skin defence against oxygen-derived free radicals generated, its increased activity may explain the beneficial role of Vichy water observed in various dermatoses.  相似文献   

4.
Ingredients of topically applied skin care formulations have not only positive effects on the appearance of human skin but can also disturb the Stratum corneum (SC) lipid barrier. In the present study, the influence of silicones (PDMS), as often used cosmetic ingredients, on the microstructure of SC lipids was investigated. For this purpose the interactions of four different PDMS with excised human SC were examined first using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and wide angle X-ray diffraction for physical characterization. Because the physical properties of human stratum corneum strongly depend on the lipid composition, showing inter-and intra-individual differences, the interactions with an in vitro model lipid system containing SC fatty acids were also studied, using polarized light microscopy, transmission electron microscopy, small angle X-ray diffraction and DSC. The results revealed that the investigated PDMS do not change either the microstructure of excised human SC or the biphasic lamellar/inverse hexagonal structure of the in vitro model. We concluded that PDMS will not cause any side-effects when topically applied and that our simplified in vitro model could be helpful for estimating interactions between cosmetic ingredients and other topically applied substances and the skin barrier at an early moment of formulation development.  相似文献   

5.
The mechanical properties of stratum corneum and epidermis have been measured in vitro and a dispersity of approximately 30% to 50% between samples from the same donor has been found. To overcome such a limitation, a technique was developed in order to compare the mechanical properties of the same skin sample before and after treatment. The chosen parameter (initial slope of the stress-strain curve) appeared to be influenced by the topical application of products. A different time response was found with stratum corneum and epidermis reflecting their structural differences.
Une nouvelle technique d'evaluation de l'effet des produits cosmétique sur les propriétés mécaniques du stratum corneum et de l'épiderme humains (etude in vitro )  相似文献   

6.
In a normal and healthy skin, the regular elimination of the superficial corneocytes, called desquamation, is a fundamental physiologic process intended to protect the barrier function of the skin. This invisible loss of corneocytes, individually or in small groups, is incessantly compensated by the divisions of the proliferative layer and the upward cellular maturation in order to maintain the harmonious renewal of the epidermis and the integrity of the stratum corneum. The harmony of this desquamation process is intimately conditioned by a sufficient hydration of the stratum corneum: (i) an abnormal desquamation leads to a disruption of the water barrier function and consequently to a dehydration tendency of the stratum corneum, and (ii) a cutaneous dryness (whatever the cause) is able to disturb the desquamation process. Protecting the water content of the stratum corneum has always been a major preoccupation of the cosmetic industry scientists. Consequently, the moisturizing properties of a cosmetic product are objectively measured by various explorations directly targeted on the hydration (corneometry) and on the level of the water barrier function (transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements), which depends directly on the skin hydration state. This intimate linkage of the desquamation process and the water content of the stratum corneum enable us to suggest an indirect assessment of the hydration from a direct study of the desquamation by examining a skin-stripping sample (D-Squames) by an optical microscope (linked to a computer). We will describe this already known technique and mainly its new and unpublished semiologic exploitation, named Diagnoskin, whose advantages are its simplicity and its reproducibility particularly interesting in the case of sequential appraisal of dermatologic or cosmetic treatments.  相似文献   

7.
The reliability of in vitro proton nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy to specifically measure the water content of rehydrated human stratum corneum samples was assessed by comparison with the previously validated thermal desorption-mass spectrometry technique. The interest of proton NMR is that it can determine, in the same sample, both the amount of total water by recording the spectra at ambient temperature, and that of bound water (non-freezing water) by recording the spectra below 0 degrees C. Provided that enough samples of stratum corneum are analysed to average out the observed and well-known sample-to-sample variation, proton NMR may be of value in the evaluation of hygroscopic properties of raw materials for moisturizer formulations.  相似文献   

8.
We utilized Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy to investigate headgroup and chain interactions in model SC lipid barriers containing equimolar amounts of deuterated hexadecanoic acid, cholesterol, and ceramide 2 (non-hydroxy sphingosine) or ceramide 5 (alpha-hydroxy sphingosine). In the ceramide 2 model the thermotropic response of the CD _ 2 and CH _ 2 stretching modes indicates that hexadecanoic acid begins to disorder at 42 degrees C while ceramide 2 remains ordered until 52 degrees C. Additionally, splitting of the CD _ 2 bending and CH _ 2 rocking modes provides evidence for separate orthorhombic hexadecanoic acid and ceramide domains. The ceramide amide I mode (1650 cm ; -1) is split into two components indicating strong intermolecular hydrogen bonding between headgroups. In the ceramide 5 model, the CH _ 2 and CD _ 2 stretching frequencies again reveal highly conformationally ordered ceramide 5 and hexadecanoic acid chains. Splitting of both the CD _ 2 bending and CH _ 2 rocking modes is observed. However, the CH _ 2 rocking frequencies indicate distorted packing of the ceramide. The collapse of these highly ordered phases, and the onset of conformational disorder, occurs at 50 degrees C for both ceramide 5 and hexadecanoic acid. The amide I and II frequencies of ceramide 5 indicate strong H-bonding, although neither mode is split. Our results demonstrate that model SC lipid systems have quite different physical properties depending on whether they contain ceramide 2 or 5. From this we infer that ceramide 2 and 5 make distinct contributions to the structural biophysics of the SC lipid barrier. Our observation of ordered lipid domains is also consistent with the recently proposed domain mosaic model of the skin barrier.  相似文献   

9.
This study has evaluated the ultraviolet light transmission characteristics of human stratum corneum at the single cell level using a low light level video microscope to measure the mean percentage transmission of light at different wavelengths and the variation in transmission across the stratum corneum. Stratum corneum was isolated by an enzymic technique and examined on a low light level UV video microscope. Quantitative evaluation of the transmitted monochromatic light for the underside of the layer was measured directly using a Kontron UNIPS image processor or indirectly with a Quantimet 920 image processor after video recording. Transmission distribution histograms were obtained from samples of stratum corneum taken from human breast, scalp, abdomen and leg. Mean transmission values were also derived and compared with diffuse transmission values obtained using the same tissue mounted on an integrating sphere. The UV microscopic transmission characteristics of enzyme separated stratum corneum clearly demonstrated that this structure was not an ideal diffuser. Uniform light intensity on the surface of the stratum corneum led to areas of transmitted intensity in close proximity that differed by factors ofthree to six fold, e.g. between regions of high (>70%) and low (<20%) brightness. However, the average transmission was found to be compatible with published data obtained by diffuse transmission spectrophotometry, taking into account the enhanced transmission arising from stratum corneum immersion in phosphate buffered saline. This was confirmed by the elevated values obtained by diffuse transmission spectrophotometry in this study for samples of stratum corneum prepared for UV microscopy being higher than these found in published data. It is obvious from these findings that viable cells in the epidermis are not exposed to a uniform incident light intensity even when this is true for the surface of skin. Studies of skin response to ultraviolet light at the single cell level must take account of the possibility of preferential exposure of specific sites in any subsequent explanation of cell sensitivity. This is in addition to the already well established cell cycle dependent ultraviolet sensitivity.  相似文献   

10.
11.
The drying stresses that develop in stratum corneum (SC) are crucial for its mechanical and biophysical function, its cosmetic feel and appearance, and play a central role in processes of dry skin damage. However, quantitative methods to characterize these stresses are lacking and little understanding exists regarding the effects of drying environment, chemical exposures and moisturizing treatments. We describe the application of a substrate curvature technique adapted for biological tissue to accurately characterize SC drying stresses as a function of time following environmental pre‐conditioning and chemical treatment in a range of drying environments. SC stresses were observed to increase to stress levels of up to ~ 3 MPa over periods of 8 h depending on pretreatment and drying environment. A unique relationship between the SC stress and water in the drying environment was established. The effect of glycerol on lowering SC stresses and damaging surfactants on elevating SC stresses were quantified. Extensions of the method to continuous monitoring of SC stresses in response to changes in environmental moisture content and temperature are reported. Finally, a biomechanics framework to account for the SC drying stress as a mechanical driving force for dry skin damage is presented.  相似文献   

12.
Methods for the study of the stratum corneum in situ are described and their application to clinical problems and cosmetic science are discussed. In vivo measurements of the thickness of skin and the components of skin can be made using high frequency pulsed ultrasound. Improved resolution of the device should allow measurement of epidermal thickness, and even that of the stratum corneum, which may vary with hydration. The protective ability of the stratum corneum can be estimated in a number of ways, the most familiar technique being transepidermal water loss measurements. Mechanical properties of the stratum corneum have been widely investigated in vivo by numerous researchers. A recent technique devised by us to deform the stratum corneum using an extendable metal frame has been used on patients with ichthyotic disorders. The deformation or compliance of the skin surface has been measured using profilometric methods, and compared to normal individuals. The results appear to be in agreement with the loss of flexural ability experienced by ichthyotic patients. Other mechanical methods more usually involve the measurement of the forces generated by skin while undergoing extension. Three techniques are described which have been used to investigate hydrational change with emollient application. Finally, the phenomenon of desquamation is discussed and methods presented for its evaluation. Passive collection of corneocytes using chambers is useful for estimation of the rates of desquamation, but are laborious and inconvenient. Forced desquamation using the desquamator enables rapid controlled harvesting of corneocytes. In addition to this, the dansyl chloride fluorescence technique has been adopted for estimation of stratum corneum kinetics using visual comparison and fluorimetric techniques. These techniques require further refinement and validation, but the tests available now are nonetheless important in understanding the biology and pharmacology of the stratum corneum.  相似文献   

13.
14.
Seasonal variation in stratum corneum (SC) biophysical and biological characteristics has been described previously. In particular, the winter season has been shown to affect more severely the properties of facial skin compared with forearm skin. Moreover, when compromised, such as in dry skin conditions, facial SC has been shown to contain increased inflammatory cytokines and proteases. Nevertheless, there have been no comparative studies of the activities and depth activity of several proteases in the SC on different body sites and at different times of the year. In this study, we examined the distribution of key serine protease activities (kallikrein 5, kallikrein 7, urokinase, plasmin and a tryptase-like enzyme) in different layers of the SC on the cheek and the forearm by analysis of consecutive tape strippings of healthy Caucasian subjects during winter and summer. The protein content of the tape strippings was quantified by absorption measurements with a recently developed and novel infrared densitometer SquameScan 850A while the SC enzyme activities were determined using fluorogenic peptide substrates. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin pH and skin hydration were higher on the cheek than on the forearm. In the same way, the activity of the inflammatory-related proteases plasmin, urokinase and tryptase was approximately five to eight times and the activity of the desquamatory-related proteases kallikrein 5 and kallikrein 7 approximately two to four times higher on the cheek than on the forearm. There were no gender-related differences in these enzyme activities except for the increased kallikrein 7 in the forearm skin of the female subjects in winter. Reduced kallikrein 5 was associated with increased SC cohesion, as judged by increased protein removal, in forearm skin in the winter months of the year although the skin was clinically normal. It can be concluded that (i) protected skin areas show lower TEWL, skin pH and skin hydration and less protease activities than skin areas that are exposed to the environment, possibly indicating subclinical inflammation on these body sites, (ii) in normal healthy forearm skin, the outer SC exhibits greater serine protease activity than its deeper layers, (iii) compared with the forearm, urokinase- and plasmin-like activities are elevated on SC strippings from the cheek, confirming activation of the plasminogen cascade, and (iv) tryptase-like activity in the SC is also elevated in samples from the cheek, possibly indicating involvement of mast cells in these barrier-compromised body sites or the synthesis of a novel tryptase-like enzyme by keratinocytes. Although elevation of the activities of urokinase, plasmin, kallikrein 5, kallikrein 7 and now a tryptase-like enzyme was observed on SC derived from skin of clinically normal cheeks, we anticipate even higher activities in skin conditions where the epidermal barrier is further impaired.  相似文献   

15.
The structure, composition, formation and function of the stratum corneum have been the subject of intense research over the last few decades. As has become apparent, stratum corneum barrier function is not only dependent on one single component but also on its total architecture. Recent developments in understanding lipid composition have led to a new ceramide nomenclature system, a new proposal for a molecular model of the interactions between ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids, and the demonstration of the presence of crystalline orthorhombic and gel hexagonal lipid phases in the stratum corneum. Linoleate-containing ceramide one, now known as CER EOS, have been shown to be essential for the formation of the 13 nm long periodicity phase (LPP) observed by electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction studies, whereas long-chain fatty acids are important for the formation of the crystalline lipid phases essential for barrier function. The role of the corneocyte envelope, its constituent proteins and its transglutaminase-mediated maturation processes have been shown to be essential for good skin condition. Several proteases may have a role in corneodesmolysis, particularly serine and cathepsin-like enzymes. Novel filaggrin polymorphisms have been identified that may be involved in the expression of a dry skin phenotype. Disturbances in lipid packing states, reduction in ceramide levels (particularly the phytosphingosine-containing ceramides), reductions in the levels of long-chain fatty acids and loss of the LPP largely account for the perturbations in lipid structure that occur in dry skin. The reduced corneodesmolysis that occurs in this xerotic skin disorder is now well accepted and is caused by reductions in the levels and activities of stratum corneum proteases together with elevated levels of corneodesmosomal glycoproteins in the superficial layers of the stratum corneum. Additionally, increased levels of fragile corneocytes are associated with reduced transglutaminase activity and corneocyte envelope cross-linking events. However, in comparison with the advances in our understanding of the textural changes that occur in dry skin, the somatosensory changes are poorly understood and the itching associated with dry skin is still an under-researched area. The unique biosensor role of the stratum corneum essential for a competent natural moisturizing barrier may also have a role to play in the action of anti-ageing technologies by controlling the expression and secretion of epidermal cytokines and growth factors. Technologies to treat the surface textural skin problems, enhance the differentiation process, particularly lipid biosynthesis, and to control the somatosensory problems in dry skin have received much attention in the last decade. This paper will review the state of the art of stratum corneum biology and the trends in the management of dry skin.  相似文献   

16.
The cornified envelope (CE) is a thin insoluble structure enveloping corneocytes, and is essential for the barrier function of the stratum corneum (SC). Our previous studies revealed that immature CEs are detected in the outermost layer of SC of barrier-impaired epidermis including the face and in various inflammatory disorders, using a non-invasive method to evaluate CE maturity. However, factors attributable for immaturity of CEs are still unclear. The aim of the present study is to clarify whether immature CEs in the SC have the potential to mature. SC samples, in which immature CEs abundantly exist, were collected from the cheek of healthy volunteers by tape-stripping, and were incubated ex vivo under the humidified air at 37 degrees C. Then, CE maturity was evaluated by staining with a combination of anti-involucrin and Nile red to detect involucrin antigenicity in the immature CEs and hydrophobicity in the mature CEs, respectively. Ex vivo incubation of the SC resulted in the conversion of immature CEs into mature CEs in terms of loss of involucrin antigenicity and acquisition of hydrophobicity. Application of buffer solutions of various pH onto the SC prior to incubation revealed that maturation of CEs was proceeded at range of pH 5-7, corresponding to intrinsic pH range within the SC. Chelating agents, ethylenediamine-N, N, N', N',-tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and ethyleneglycol bis(beta-aminoethylether)-N,N,N',N'-tetraacetic acid (EGTA), and thiol alkylating agents, N-ethylmaleimide and iodoacetamide, inhibited the maturation. Labelled cadaverine as an exogenous substrate for transglutaminase (TGase) could be incorporated into CEs during maturation. Extractable involucrin-like protein detected in the SC samples before incubation concomitantly disappeared with CE maturation, suggesting incorporation of endogenous substrates into the CEs. These results obviously demonstrate that maturation of CEs was mediated by TGase activity in the SC, and that immature CEs found in the outermost face SC have potential to mature by cross-linking of endogenous CE precursors present in the SC. Reduction of environmental humidity during ex vivo incubation of the SC resulted in marked suppression of maturation of CEs, and application of a moisturizer, glycerine, onto the SC replenished the suppression of maturation, suggesting that water content in the SC may affect the TGase reaction in the SC. Therefore, various factors, including a decrease in the water content in the SC, may account for impaired maturation of CEs in the face SC.  相似文献   

17.
18.
Bien que le stratum corneum soit composé de cellules ‘mortes’, il est le siège d'une activité métabolique très importante. Mais, contrairement à la plupart d'autres tissus, cette activité a la particularité d'étre extra-cellulaire. Elle est due à des enzymes excrétées par les Corps d'Odland avec les bicouches céramidiques. Ces enzymes sont des hydrolases, elles sont identiques ou très proches de celles des lysosomes. Les principales activités observées correspondent à une (ou des) glycosidase(s), une phospholipase, une sphingomyélinase, une phosphatase, une (ou des) estérase(s), des sulfatases, des protéases. Comme les hydrolases des lysosomes, elles semblent peu spécifiques. Ce pool enzymatique pourrait jouer plusieurs rôles fondamentaux, notamment: 1. La transformation des bicouches gluco-céramidiques en bicouches ceramidiques plus lipophiles; 2. L'élimination de la membrane plasmique, dont certains produits du catabolisme, comme les acides gras et les céramides, peuvent être intégrés aux bicouches céramidiques; 3. La diminution de la cohésion entre les cornéocytes; 4. La protection contre l'intrusion de corps étrangers. Comme tout système enzymatique, les hydrolases extra-cellulaires, sont certainement soumises à des régulations. Plusieurs de ces régulations sont envisagées. A partir de considérations d'enzymologie, le pH de la base du stratum corneum peut être estiméà environ 5. En cosmétologie, les enzymes du stratum corneum sont mises à contribution pour rendre actifs des précurseurs. L'étude des conséquences des modifications de l'activité enzymatique sur l'état de la peau pourrait constituer une future voie de recherche extrêmement prometteuse.  相似文献   

19.
This study investigated the effect of different treatments on skin permeability, in vivo in man, by two noninvasive methods: transepidermal water loss (TEWL) determination measured with an evaporimeter, and Laser Doppler velocimetry (LDV) to measure the lag time before the vasodilatation induced by application of methyl and hexyl nicotinates.
Different treatments were performed on forearms of volunteers: 1. removal of the stratum corneum by stripping, 2. occlusion and hydration of the stratum corneum, 3. application of three surfactants in aqueous solution (Tween 60, sodium dodecyl sulphate and cetyl trimethylammonium bromide).
Increase in TEWL and decrease in lag time before the vasodilating effects of nicotinates measured with LDV after all treatments confirmed the modifications in skin permeability. The variations observed were more or less significant depending on the treatment, the investigative method, and the molecule used for the penetration study. With methyl (hydrophilic) nicotinate, the more TEWL increased, the more lag time decreased. A significant decrease in lag time after hexyl (lipophilic) nicotinate application was observed when there was a very high increase in TEWL. The lipophilic nature of the stratum corneum barrier was confirmed in vivo. Use of these two complementary methods, TEWL and LDV, allows the evaluation in vivo of the effect of different treatments on skin permeability in man.  相似文献   

20.
Protein carbonyl groups in the stratum corneum may be used as a biomarker for skin photo-stress. To evaluate the relationship between the protein carbonyl to total protein (TP) ratio (carbonylation ratio) and skin photo-stress, the authors established a methodology by which protein carbonyl can be easily and highly sensitively analysed using an optical technique based on surface plasmon resonance (SPR). To collect the stratum corneum, tape stripping was employed. Firstly, the protein carbonyl was reacted with 2,4-dinitrobenzenesulfonic acid dihydrate, and the quantity of dinitrophenylated (DNP)-protein carbonyl was determined using an anti-dinitrophenyl (anti-DNP) antibody. The mass of DNP-protein carbonyl was measured using SPR. A truncated sampling-reporting cycle of <5 min allowed speedy reporting of DNP-protein carbonyl levels. A significant difference was observed in the protein carbonyl/TP ratio (carbonylation ratio) between a sun-protected area (mid-ventral arm) and a sun-exposed area (upper cheek, P < 0.05). Additionally, the carbonylation ratio of the sun-exposed area showed a higher value than that of the sun-protected area. It was suggested that the carbonylation ratio might be a useful index of skin photo-stress.  相似文献   

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