Transdermal delivery of two antioxidants from different cosmetic formulations

The efficacy of any cosmetic product containing a functional ingredient is determined by the skin delivery of the active molecule, which is influenced by the type of the vehicle and the molecule itself. This study was designed to compare the percutaneous absorption habits of the antioxidants carcinine and lipoic acid out of various formulations by means of the porcine skin model. Initial evaluation of the in vitro porcine skin model has demonstrated its feasibility for various substances and formulations [1, 2]. Increasing legal requirements for risk assessment in the cosmetic industry have led to the development of this alternative test method. The penetration properties are determined by the OECD Guideline TG 428: Skin Absorption: in vitro Method [3, 4], which allows the use of porcine skin for penetration studies. Porcine skin is used because of its similarity to human skin in terms of its morphology and the essential permeation characteristics [5]. The mass balances for each tested formulation type of the antioxidants show individual penetration behaviours with significant differences. The presented data plainly demonstrate that the lipophilic lipoic acid has a distinct higher penetration potential than the hydrophilic carcinine. The chosen vehicle can enhance or reduce the transdermal delivery of both tested antioxidants. Modern effective cosmetic formulations will work only, if the active ingredients penetrate into the epidermis. In conclusion, the correct selection of a suitable formulation plays an important role during product development.     

Free internal lipids in hair from pre- and post-menopausal women

Plant secondary metabolites such as flavonoids, isoflavones and phytosterols have been proposed as cosmetic ingredients displaying anti-aging effects. On the cellular level, however, the activity profiles of these ingredients are only partially understood. In this study we analyzed the effects of apple seed phytosterols on age-related structural and functional parameters using cell biochemical, molecular biological and bioengineering techniques. The expression of age-related genes was studied using skin equivalents and cDNA microarrays. Incubation of skin equivalents with apple seed phytosterols had significant consequences: (i) differential regulation of a set of genes associated with keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation, (ii) stimulation of hyaluronic acid synthesis, and (iii) increase of epidermal thickness. In vivo studies revealed that apple seed phytosterols improve skin elasticity and decrease skin roughness. In conclusion, apple seed phytosterols display distinct biological effects and significantly improve the structure and function of mature skin.     

Oral fish cartilage polysaccharides in the treatment of photoageing: biophysical findings

The topically applied cosmetic products can be helpful in improving the aged skin condition. The present study shows how oral fish-cartilage food supplementation can be helpful in improving the treatment of ageing skin. A total of 30 healthy women with signs of skin ageing were studied. Fifteen of the women were treated with a food supplement based on polysaccharides derived from the fish cartilage and a natural mix of antioxidants for 2 months and the other 15 with a placebo. Clinical evaluation and biophysical parameters related to skin function and wrinkle severity, such as silicone replica, skin thickness, mechanical properties, skin colour and capacitance, were measured. The results showed statistically significant changes in the active-treated group in comparison to the placebo. In particular, dermal thickness (treatment: from 1.13 to 1.23 mm; P < 0.001), skin wrinkling (treatment: from 9.5 to 3.5 R(a); P< 0.002), skin colour (treatment: brighter and less pigmented; P < 0.02) and viscoelasticity (treatment: from 0.70 to 0.97%; P < 0.02) showed considerable improvement. Most of these parameters are related to changes occurring within the dermal matrix, which is improved after the treatment, whereas most of the topically applied cosmetic products have a short-term effect on superficial structures. A combination treatment (oral and topical) can be more effective in reducing the signs of skin-ageing.     

Clinical and instrumental evaluation of a food supplement in improving skin hydration

Topically applied cosmetic products can be helpful in improving skin hydration. The study shows how oral supplementation could be helpful in improving and preventing the skin dehydration. A total of 32 healthy female volunteers entered the study. Of which, 16 were treated with a food supplement based on vegetable ceramides, amino acids, fish cartilage, antioxidants and essential fatty acids for 40 days and 16 with placebo. The results of the clinical and instrumental evaluations carried out in this study, have highlighted how the active treatment is effective in improving skin hydration and in reducing the cutaneous smoothness and roughness and the depth of furrows, in comparison to the placebo. In fact, concerning several important parameters, as stratum corneum hydration and skin roughness, the improvement measured exceeded 25%. We therefore suggest that a combination of treatments (oral and topical) can be more effective in improving skin hydration.     

Photostability of Cosmetic Materials

The basic principles of photochemistry and photochemical reactions applicable to the topic are briefly reviewed. A more detailed survey of the photochemical reactions of raw materials used in the formulation of cosmetics is treated, according to the principal chemical classification of the material. In each group the photochemical reactions of the substance are reported with the more apparent implications for the cosmetic industry highlighted. The effects of photochemical catalysts are discussed, including the sources of impurities which can catalyse photochemical spoilage of cosmetic products. The methods of retarding photochemical degradation are appraised, including precautions which could be adopted in manufacturing processes and the use of additives collectively known as antioxidants.
La stabilite a la lumiere des produits cosmetiques     

The melanogenesis and mechanisms of skin-lightening agents--existing and new approaches

Skin-lightening products are commercially available for cosmetic purposes to obtain lighter skin complexion. Clinically, they are also used for treatment of hyperpigmentary disorders such as melasma, café au lait spot and solar lentigo. All of these target naturally melanin production, and many of the commonly used agents are known as competitive inhibitors of tyrosinase, one of the key enzymes in melanogenesis. In this review, we present an overview of commonly used skin-whitening ingredients that are commercialized, but we also hypothesize on other mechanisms that could be important targets to control skin pigmentation such as for example regulation of the adrenergic and glutaminergic signalling and also control of tetrahydrobiopterins in the human skin.     

Recent Trends in the Use of Natural Antioxidants for Meat and Meat Products

Antioxidants are added to fresh and processed meat and meat products to prevent lipid oxidation, retard development of off‐flavors, and improve color stability. In the food industry, they can be divided into natural and synthetic antioxidants. Synthetic antioxidants have been confirmed for their toxicological and carcinogenic effects. Thus, the food industry now chooses natural products over synthetic ones. This review provides an overview of the current trends in the use of antioxidants from natural sources, for potential applications in meat and meat products. These natural antioxidants contain some active compounds, which exert antioxidative potential in meat and meat products by different mechanisms of action. The efficient extraction of these antioxidants from their natural sources, along with establishing their in vitro and in producto antioxidant activity, has been a great challenge for researchers engaged in this field. Therefore, this review is focused on all these aspects, along with current studies related to this area, to provide in‐depth information to readers.     

Oxidative effects of cigarette smoke on the human skin

The oxidative effects of cigarette smoke on the human skin were investigated. A remarkable increase in the conversion ratio of squalene (SQ) to squalene monohydroperoxide (SQHPO) due to exposure to cigarette smoke was observed using a CL-HPLC (high performance liquid chromatography with a chemiluminescence detector) system. The results showed that cigarette smoke caused lipid peroxidation. We also found that the addition of chain-breaking-type antioxidants, such as oolong tea extract, inhibited the peroxidation. When cultured human skin fibroblasts were exposed to cigarette smoke, this increased the intensity of ultraweak chemiluminescence (CL), leading us to assume that cigarette smoke caused oxidation in cultured human skin fibroblasts. When the cultured human skin fibroblasts were treated with antioxidants such as glutathione, thiotaurine, hypotaurine and ascorbic acid there was little increase in CL, meaning that oxidation had been prevented in the human skin fibroblasts. We also exposed the human forearm to cigarette smoke and obtained sebum using cotton immersed in acetone in order to measure hydroperoxide levels by means of a CL-HPLC system. The exposure of skin to the smoke caused a dose-dependent increase in hydroperoxides derived from cigarette smoke. Further exposure of the forearm to cigarette smoke increased the intensity of CL, but pretreating the skin with antioxidants such as glutathione, thiotaurine and hypotaurine inhibited this increase. From these results, we concluded that cigarette smoke had an oxidative effect on SQ, cultured human skin fibroblasts and the surface of the human skin. The application of antioxidants prevented the cigarette smoke-induced oxidation. We consider that these oxidative effects on the skin could be a cause of skin disorders and skin aging.     

经口给予透明质酸的生理功能及其作用机制研究进展

透明质酸（hyaluronic acid，HA）广泛存在于人体各个组织中，具有保湿、润滑等多种生理功能，并且参与到伤口愈合、炎症反应、组织修复等多个生物过程中。HA作为重要的医疗和美容材料，已被广泛应用于医药和化妆用品。2021年1月7日，国家卫生健康委员会发文，批准透明质酸钠为“新食品原料”，可应用于普通食品添加。口服作为最理想和经济、方便的给药方式，具有更高的使用依从性。本文综述了目前已发表的经口给予HA相关代表性研究成果，主要关注其在体内的吸收、分布和代谢途径，以及其对于不同组织、器官的保护功能，并结合药理、毒理研究为新型口服HA制剂的开发和应用提供科学依据，同时提高大众对于口服HA的正确认知。     

What are the potential strategies to achieve potentially more healthful meat products?

In recent years, much attention has been paid to the consumption of meat and processed meat, and their relationship with a healthy diet. This review provides an overview of the potential strategies, which can be used to provide the implications for producing healthy, wholesome and consistently high-quality meat products. Genetic selection, nutrition and feeding management, and gene manipulation techniques have been used as the main strategies to induce beneficial changes in meat and meat composition. Besides, the incorporation of ingredients that play a technological role and are potentially health-enhancing, such as fibre, fat substitutes, natural antioxidants and the reduction of sodium and nitrites, has a high potential in the development of healthier meat products. In this review, we have observed that many strategies have been successfully used to obtain products with low fat, reduced sodium and nitrite content, low cholesterol and absence of synthetic antioxidants. Another point to be highlighted is that some of these strategies also allow obtaining products with positive health effects that can be potential alternatives to improve consumer acceptance.     

The promise of marine molecules as cosmetic active ingredients

The marine environment represents an underexploited resource for the discovery of novel products, despite its high level of biological and chemical diversity. With increasing awareness of the harmful effects of chronic ultraviolet exposure, and a universal desire to improve cosmetic appearance, the market for new cosmetic ingredients is growing, and current trends have generated a greater demand for products sourced from the environment. A growing number of novel molecules from marine flora and fauna exhibit potent and effective dermatological activities. Secondary metabolites isolated from macroalgae, including carotenoids and polyphenols, have demonstrated antioxidant, anti‐ageing and anti‐inflammatory activities. In addition, marine extremophilic bacteria have recently been shown to produce bioactive exopolymeric molecules, some of which have been commercialized. Available data on their activities show significant antioxidant, moisturizing and anti‐ageing activities, but a more focussed investigation into their mechanisms and applications is required. This review surveys the reported biological activities of an emerging and growing portfolio of marine molecules that show promise in the treatment of cosmetic skin problems including ultraviolet damage, ageing and cutaneous dryness.     

Phytochemical characteristics of citrus peel and effect of conventional and nonconventional processing on phenolic compounds: A review

Citrus peel is rich in functional ingredients such as essential oils (0.6–1%), fibers (6.30–42.13 g/100 g db), phenols (0.67–19.62 g/100 g db), and vitamin C (0.109–1.150 g/100 g db). Flavanones (hesperidin: 0.002–80.90 mg/g db, neohesperidin: 0.05–11.70 mg/g db, narirutin: 0.03–26.90 mg/g db; naringin: 0.08–14.40 mg/g db), and polymethoxylated flavones (sinensetin: 0.08–0.29 mg/g db, nobiletin: 0.20–14.05 mg/g db, tangeretin: 0.16–7.99 mg/g db) are the main phenolic compounds (PCs) of citrus peel. Due to their antioxidant activity, PCs are used in various applications such as formulation of healthy food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical products. PCs present sensitivity to process operating conditions (during juice processing and further thermal and nonthermal processing). This review summarizes the main publications dealing with the proximate chemical composition, the functional properties, and the potential applications of the main citrus peel compounds. The effects of conventional and nonconventional processing on PCs of citrus fruits and their derived and coproducts are analyzed. The information provided in this review allows a better choice of appropriate processes and their optimal operating conditions for a better retention of antioxidants in citrus products.     

Main features and applications of organogels in cosmetics

Cosmetic treatments aim at improving skin appearance through vehicles of good sensory properties. Those vehicles are mainly emulsions and gels designed to deliver safe and effective compounds to skin. Creams and serums are widely used to achieve these goals, but recently a new type of formulation known as organogels triggered scientific attention, particularly in the design of both topical and cosmetic formulations. It has been established that the lipophilic nature of organogels makes it an excellent candidate for the delivery of cosmetic molecules through skin. In this review, we discuss the properties and characteristics of organogels and present the advantages of the application of these systems in cosmetics.     

In vitro human skin permeation and cutaneous metabolism of catechins from green tea extract and green tea extract-loaded chitosan microparticles

Catechins are major antioxidants in green tea (Camellia sinensis or Camellia assamica), but because they do not permeate the skin well, the application of green tea in cosmetic products has so far been limited. This study aims to evaluate the cutaneous absorption of catechins from an extract of green tea and from a green tea extract-loaded chitosan microparticle. The catechin skin metabolism was also examined. The results suggest that chitosan microparticles significantly improve the ability of catechins to permeate skin. The cutaneous metabolism of the catechins significantly affected their permeation profiles. Epicatechin (EC) and epigallocatechin (EGC) penetrated the skin more than epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) and epicatechin gallate (ECG). The galloyl groups in EGCG and ECG were enzymatically hydrolysed to EGC and EC, respectively. Dehydroxylation of catechins was also observed. Chitosan microparticles effectively prevented enzymatic changes of the catechins; therefore, chitosan microparticles are here found to be the promising carriers for enhancing the skin permeation.     

Main characteristics of peanut skin and its role for the preservation of meat products

BackgroundThe produced peanuts by-products are a huge challenge, but they are recognized to be a source of valuable nutrients, including natural antioxidants and antimicrobials. Antioxidants are considered as necessary ingredients in food to prevent oxidative reactions and their undesirable effects in food quality during processing and storage. However, the use of such compounds is regulated due to their harmful effects revealed by in vitro and in vivo studies. The use of natural antioxidants appears as an interesting alternative for food producers, particularly meat industries.Scope and approachPeanut skin (PS), a by-product of peanut processing in agro-industries, constitutes an under-explored source of natural antioxidants. Thus, this review was focused on both the reuse of peanuts by-products and societal health, reducing the use of synthetic antioxidants and antimicrobials.Key findings and conclusionsProanthocyanidins are the main compounds in PS that are associated with the antioxidant activity in vitro and its protective effect in meat products. Studies in recent literature strengthen the role of PS as a natural source of antioxidants wherein oxidative reactions involving mainly pigments, lipids and proteins are delayed.     

Therapeutic and Nutraceutical Potential of Bioactive Compounds Extracted from Fruit Residues

The growing interest in the substitution of synthetic food antioxidants by natural ones has fostered research in identifying new low-cost antioxidants having commercial potential. Fruits such as mango, banana, and those belonging to the citrus family leave behind a substantial amount of residues in the form of peels, pulp, seeds, and stones. Due to lack of infrastructure to handle a huge quantity of available biomass, lack of processing facilities, and high processing cost, these residues represent a major disposal problem, especially in developing countries. Because of the presence of phenolic compounds, which impart nutraceutical properties to fruit residues, such residues hold tremendous potential in food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. The biological properties such as anticarcinogenicity, antimutagenicity, antiallergenicity, and antiageing activity have been reported for both natural as well as synthetic antioxidants. Special attention is focused on extraction of bioactive compounds from inexpensive or residual sources. The purpose of this review is to characterize different phenolics present in the fruit residues, discuss the antioxidant potential of such residues and the assays used in determination of antioxidant properties, discuss various methods for efficient extraction of the bioactive compounds, and highlight the importance of fruit residues as potential nutraceutical resources and biopreservatives.     

Bioengineering and subjective approaches to the clinical evaluation of dry skin

Dry skin (also known as xerosis) is a cutaneous reaction pattern indicative of abnormal desquamation, which has not only cosmetic considerations, but can also lead to the penetration of irritants and allergens through the stratum corneum (SC). Over the last few decades, our understanding of the structure, composition, formation and function of the SC has advanced tremendously; however, despite these advancements, the occurrence of dry skin remains prevalent in the adult population. The clinical evaluation of dry skin is therefore of significant importance to the cosmetic industry not only for understanding the condition but also for measuring the effects of treatment. Traditionally, dry skin has been evaluated by visual inspection, however, recently a variety of bioengineering techniques have emerged enabling the investigator to objectively assess the extent of xerotic conditions. The most frequently employed methods for the evaluation of dry skin are discussed in this review, including regression testing, squametry, measurement of transepidermal water loss, epidermal hydration, profilometry, confocal Raman spectroscopy, optical coherence tomography, in vivo confocal microscopy and magnetic resonance imaging.     

The Impact of Milling and Thermal Processing on Phenolic Compounds in Cereal Grains

Consumption of wholegrain foods has been recommended for healthy diets. The beneficial health properties of wholegrain products have been associated with the presence of higher amounts of dietary fiber and antioxidants and lower calories as compared to their respective refined ones. Phenolic compounds are mainly attributed to antioxidant properties of wholegrain foods. This review article provides a single comprehensive source that describes effects of milling and thermal processing on phenolic compounds and antioxidant properties in cereals. In general, milling and pearling processes affect the distribution of phenolic, compounds and thus antioxidant properties vary among the milling fractions. Thermal processes such as baking and extrusion could cause negative or positive effects on phenolic compounds and antioxidant properties of the end product subject to grain type and processing conditions. Thus factors that enhance health benefits of wholegrain cereal products have been discussed.     

Repurposing chia seed oil: A versatile novel functional food

Chia seed oil (CSO) has been recently gaining tremendous interest as a functional food. The oil is rich in with polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs), especially, alpha linolenic acid (ALA), linoleic acid (LA), tocopherols, phenolic acids, vitamins, and antioxidants. Extracting CSO through green technologies has been highly efficient, cost-effective, and sustainable, which has also shown to improve its nutritional potential and proved to be eco-friendly than any other traditional or conventional processes. Due to the presence of valuable bioactive metabolites, CSO is proving to be a revolutionary source for food, baking, dairy, pharmaceutical, livestock feed, and cosmetic industries. CSO has been reported to possess antidiabetic, anticancer, anti-inflammatory, antiobesity, antioxidant, antihyperlipidemic, insect-repellent, and skin-healing properties. However, studies on toxicological safety and commercial potency of CSO are limited and therefore the need of the hour is to focus on large-scale molecular mechanistic and clinical studies, which may throw light on the possible translational opportunities of CSO to be utilized to its complete potential. In this review, we have deliberated on the untapped therapeutical possibilities and novel findings about this functional food, its biochemical composition, extraction methods, nutritional profiling, oil stability, and nutraceutical and pharmaceutical applications for its health benefits and ability to counter various diseases.     

Antioxidants Bound to an Insoluble Food Matrix: Their Analysis,Regeneration Behavior,and Physiological Importance

Dietary antioxidants play an important role in human health by counteracting oxidative stress and preventing chronic diseases. Most common dietary antioxidants in foods are vitamins, carotenoids, phenolic compounds, sulfur‐containing compounds, and neoformed antioxidants. Antioxidants may be present in free soluble or bound insoluble forms in foods. Antioxidants bound to insoluble food matrices have gained the spotlight because they exert their antioxidant effects much longer than free soluble ones. A direct procedure called QUENCHER has been shown to accurately measure the antioxidant capacity of antioxidants bound to insoluble matrices. This procedure overcomes the drawbacks of extraction‐dependent classical assays leading to underestimation of the total antioxidant capacity (TAC) of foods. This review focuses on antioxidants that are found naturally in foods or are formed in foods during processing specifically the antioxidants bound to the insoluble food matrices. The literature gap on the importance of bound antioxidants, their physiological relevance, and methods for measurement of their antioxidant capacity will be filled by this comprehensive review. In particular, chemical properties and health effects of food antioxidants, measurement of the TAC of foods by the QUENCHER method, digestion behavior of bound insoluble antioxidants, and their interactions with free soluble antioxidants are discussed throughout this review.