Encapsulating plant ingredients for dermocosmetic application: an updated review of delivery systems and characterization techniques

Today, there is a rising demand and ongoing search for novel plant-derived phytochemicals in the cosmetic market owing to the growing consumer expectations worldwide for green and natural health products. Various plant ingredients, including polyphenols, oils, volatile oils, vitamins and other herbal extracts, have been extensively used in herbal cosmetics. Recent advances in encapsulation technologies have greatly improved their chemical stability, biocompatibility, skin permeability and dermocosmetic efficiency when applied topically. This comprehensive review summarizes the up-to-date information on encapsulated plant ingredients tailored for dermocosmetic application with a focus on the development of novel delivery systems. An overview of the commonly used techniques for carrier characterization, performance-related properties and toxicological evaluation is also included, which might provide guidance for researchers to select or develop appropriate assay systems.