Influence of skin cleansing preparation acidity on skin surface properties

Two long-term trials were conducted each over eight weeks to compare the effect of the regular application of skin cleansing preparations of pH 5.5 and pH 8.5 and pH 5.5 and pH 7.0 respectively on the surface pH, roughness and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of normal human forehead and forearm skin. Both trials were based on a cross-over design: five healthy volunteers started with a pH 5.5 preparation and switched to the other after four weeks, five additional volunteers used the preparations in the opposite order. While the skin surface pH was markedly lower in those individuals using the pH 5.5 preparation at each examination, as compared to those using the pH 8.5 or pH 7.0 preparation, no such difference could be established with respect to skin roughness and TEWL. Hence the skin irritancy of a cleansing preparation does not seem to be linked to its pH within the pH ranges tested.     

Leg wash protocol to assess the skin moisturization potential of personal cleansing products

Many personal cleansers claim to provide a skin moisturization benefit, but there has been relatively little discussion in the scientific literature of the clinical methods that provide the basis for such claims. We have developed a leg wash method to assess the dry skin improvement potential of personal cleansing products. The protocol is performed on 'natural' dry leg skin to avoid potential confounds that may result from applying cleansers to soap-damaged skin. Washes are conducted over a period of days or weeks, with visual and instrumental assessments performed at various times throughout the period to characterize products' short-term and cumulative skin effects. Studies conducted with a variety of personal cleansing technologies demonstrate the method's ability to discriminate products on the basis of their dry skin improvement potential. Further, results from a series of eleven leg wash studies conducted with the same treatment pair under different test conditions (time of year, test facility, expert grader) demonstrate the protocol's robustness. The data generated under this protocol show that personal cleansing products differ widely in their ability to improve dry skin. Our results indicate that there is a wide range of efficacy among moisturizing personal cleansing products, with some products delivering a significant dry skin improvement benefit even for periods as long as 24 hours.     

Iron: a cosmetic constituent but an essential nutrient for healthy skin

Iron compounds have an established role as colorants in many cosmetic products applied to the skin, hair and nails. Evidence is reviewed showing that in addition to its importance as an essential nutrient necessary for oxygen metabolism and mitrochondrial function, iron exhibits a fundamental importance as a trace metal in the normal growth and functional maturation of the skin and in the health of hair and nails. The implications of iron from cosmetic sources in the nutrition of human skin is discussed.     

Stratum corneum fatty acids: their critical role in preserving barrier integrity during cleansing

Stratum corneum (SC) bilayer lipids, specifically fatty acids, ceramides and cholesterol, contribute to the permeability barrier function of the skin. Normal skin cleansing is associated with damage to the SC lipids because cleanser surfactants, in addition to providing the desired effect of solubilizing and facilitating the removal of sebum and skin soils, have a propensity to disrupt bilayer lipids by extracting endogenous skin lipids or intercalating into the bilayer. Disrupted SC lipids are associated with a variety of pathological skin conditions, as well as with dry skin induced by harsh cleansing. In an attempt to preserve the barrier and mitigate the damage caused by frequent normal cleansing, the incorporation of physiologically relevant lipids into skin cleansers has become common in leading cleansing products. It has been noted that fatty acids are more susceptible to surfactant‐induced removal than other lipids (eg, ceramides), an observation that may form the basis for a critically important strategy for replenishing SC lipids. This review will focus on the role of fatty acids in the structure and function of the SC, and the rationale for incorporation of stearic acid into moisturizing body cleansers to minimize their extraction by surfactants and replenish lost fatty acids to promote skin barrier preservation.     

Influence of cleansing on stratum corneum tryptic enzyme in human skin

Desquamation in human skin is a well-balanced process of de novo production of corneocytes and their shedding from the skin surface. The proteolysis of corneodesmosomes is an important step in the final desquamation process. In the degradation of these adhesion molecules, the stratum corneum tryptic enzyme (SCTE) plays a key role. In initial studies with extracts of porcine epidermis, SCTE was shown to be inactivated by low concentrations of sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES). These in vitro findings were supported by in situ results obtained by measuring the release of fluorescent dyes coupled to trypsin-specific substrates incubated on human skin cross-sections. Moreover, in further studies, it could be demonstrated that the SCTE activity in the human horny layer decreases after in vivo application of cleansing products containing SLES. After repeated washing of human volunteers with tap water, a standard market cleansing product (SLES/betaine system) or a new improved cleansing product (SLES/betaine/disodium cocoyl glutamate system), the specific SCTE activity was determined in extracts from the uppermost layers of the stratum corneum. It could be shown that after application of the new formula the remaining SCTE activity was significantly higher than after use of the standard market formula. This ex vivo approach has proven to be very helpful for measuring surfactant effects on human skin enzymes. Using this assay, we developed an improved shower gel formula, which leads to a significantly higher skin enzyme activity after application, compared to a standard market formula.     

Absorption of materials by or through the living skin

The skin comes into contact with a large range of materials either deliberately or inadvertently. It should be possible to predict the exact transport rates of these materials through the skin as a function of the physicochemical properties of the different compounds. With this sort of knowledge it is possible to predict the exact disposition of compounds and use this in the formulation of new products both in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic field. The information will also be useful from the standpoint of skin toxicology and environmental health. In order to be able to predict this complex process it is necessary to split the overall transport into different component parts. This article will identify these components and provide illustrations. The major areas discussed will be barrier function of the skin, the release properties of different topical formulations and how these may be monitored. Novel means of enhancing the penetration of drugs will be discussed and how some additives that are incorporated into formulations will perhaps alter the barrier function of skin. A mathematical model describing skin penetration has been developed and its use in predicting blood levels will be described. This model has been tested both in animal experiments and in limited human studies and its relevance to these situations will be highlighted.
Absorption cutanée et transcutanée in vivo     

Transdermal delivery of two antioxidants from different cosmetic formulations

The efficacy of any cosmetic product containing a functional ingredient is determined by the skin delivery of the active molecule, which is influenced by the type of the vehicle and the molecule itself. This study was designed to compare the percutaneous absorption habits of the antioxidants carcinine and lipoic acid out of various formulations by means of the porcine skin model. Initial evaluation of the in vitro porcine skin model has demonstrated its feasibility for various substances and formulations [1, 2]. Increasing legal requirements for risk assessment in the cosmetic industry have led to the development of this alternative test method. The penetration properties are determined by the OECD Guideline TG 428: Skin Absorption: in vitro Method [3, 4], which allows the use of porcine skin for penetration studies. Porcine skin is used because of its similarity to human skin in terms of its morphology and the essential permeation characteristics [5]. The mass balances for each tested formulation type of the antioxidants show individual penetration behaviours with significant differences. The presented data plainly demonstrate that the lipophilic lipoic acid has a distinct higher penetration potential than the hydrophilic carcinine. The chosen vehicle can enhance or reduce the transdermal delivery of both tested antioxidants. Modern effective cosmetic formulations will work only, if the active ingredients penetrate into the epidermis. In conclusion, the correct selection of a suitable formulation plays an important role during product development.     

RAPA: a novel in vitro method to evaluate anti‐bacterial skin cleansing products

Development of efficacious anti‐bacterial skin cleansing products has been limited by the availability of a pre‐clinical (in vitro) method to predict clinical efficacy adequately. We report a simple and rapid method, designated as rapid agar plate assay (RAPA), that uses the bacteriological agar surface as a surrogate substrate for skin and combines elements of two widely used in vivo (clinical) methods (Agar Patch and Cup Scrub). To simulate the washing of the human hand or forearm skin with the test product, trypticase soy agar plates were directly washed with the test product and rinsed under running tap water. After air‐drying the washed plates, test bacteria (Staphylococcus aureus or Escherichia coli) were applied and the plates were incubated at 37°C for 18–24 h. Using S. aureus as the test organism, anti‐bacterial bar soap containing triclocarbanilide showed a strong linear relationship (R² = 0.97) between bacterial dose and their per cent reduction. A similar dose‐response relationship (R² = 0.96) was observed for anti‐bacterial liquid hand soap against E. coli. RAPA was able to distinguish between anti‐bacterial products based on the nature and level of actives in them. In limited comparative tests, results obtained by RAPA were comparable with the results obtained by clinical agar patch and clinical cup scrub methods. In conclusion, RAPA provides a simple, rugged and reproducible in vitro method for testing the relative efficacy of anti‐bacterial skin cleansing products with a likelihood of comparable clinical efficacy. Further testing is warranted to improve the clinical predictability of this method.     

Natural skin surface pH is on average below 5, which is beneficial for its resident flora

Variable skin pH values are being reported in literature, all in the acidic range but with a broad range from pH 4.0 to 7.0. In a multicentre study (N = 330), we have assessed the skin surface pH of the volar forearm before and after refraining from showering and cosmetic product application for 24 h. The average pH dropped from 5.12 +/- 0.56 to 4.93 +/- 0.45. On the basis of this pH drop, it is estimated that the 'natural' skin surface pH is on average 4.7, i.e. below 5. This is in line with existing literature, where a relatively large number of reports (c. 50%) actually describes pH values below 5.0; this is in contrast to the general assumption, that skin surface pH is on average between 5.0 and 6.0. Not only prior use of cosmetic products, especially soaps, have profound influence on skin surface pH, but the use of plain tap water, in Europe with a pH value generally around 8.0, will increase skin pH up to 6 h after application before returning to its 'natural' value of on average below 5.0. It is demonstrated that skin with pH values below 5.0 is in a better condition than skin with pH values above 5.0, as shown by measuring the biophysical parameters of barrier function, moisturization and scaling. The effect of pH on adhesion of resident skin microflora was also assessed; an acid skin pH (4-4.5) keeps the resident bacterial flora attached to the skin, whereas an alkaline pH (8-9) promotes the dispersal from the skin.     

The dimensions of wine quality

The nature of product quality is complex and repays close investigation. Using qualitative methods, this study examined Australian wine drinkers’ perceptions of wine quality to construct a comprehensive, consumer-focused understanding of the complexity of the concept. Wine quality was found to comprise a number of dimensions, both intrinsic to what is drunk and extrinsic to it. These dimensions may be terminal – an end state of pleasure – or catalytic, factors which help to stimulate resulting pleasure. In theoretical terms the study suggests that quality is a multi-dimensional construct and that consumers engage with it depending on their varying involvement levels with the product. Practically the research offers marketers the chance to understand how quality is conceived by consumers and the varying ways in which drinkers can be grouped based on the quality dimensions they focus on.     

Antioxidants for improved skin appearance: Intracellular mechanism,challenges and future strategies

Recent advances in molecular and biochemical processes relevant to the skincare field have led to the development of novel ingredients based on antioxidants that can improve skin health and youthfulness. Considering the plethora of such antioxidants and the many implications for the skin's appearance, this review focuses on describing the critical aspects of antioxidants, including cosmetic functions, intracellular mechanisms and challenges. In particular, specialized substances are suggested for the treatment of each skin condition, such as skin ageing, skin dehydration and skin hyperpigmentation, which treatments can maximize effectiveness and avoid side effects during skin care processes. In addition, this review proposes advanced strategies that either already exists in the cosmetic market or should be developed to improve and optimize cosmetic’ beneficial effects.     

Oral fish cartilage polysaccharides in the treatment of photoageing: biophysical findings

The topically applied cosmetic products can be helpful in improving the aged skin condition. The present study shows how oral fish-cartilage food supplementation can be helpful in improving the treatment of ageing skin. A total of 30 healthy women with signs of skin ageing were studied. Fifteen of the women were treated with a food supplement based on polysaccharides derived from the fish cartilage and a natural mix of antioxidants for 2 months and the other 15 with a placebo. Clinical evaluation and biophysical parameters related to skin function and wrinkle severity, such as silicone replica, skin thickness, mechanical properties, skin colour and capacitance, were measured. The results showed statistically significant changes in the active-treated group in comparison to the placebo. In particular, dermal thickness (treatment: from 1.13 to 1.23 mm; P < 0.001), skin wrinkling (treatment: from 9.5 to 3.5 R(a); P< 0.002), skin colour (treatment: brighter and less pigmented; P < 0.02) and viscoelasticity (treatment: from 0.70 to 0.97%; P < 0.02) showed considerable improvement. Most of these parameters are related to changes occurring within the dermal matrix, which is improved after the treatment, whereas most of the topically applied cosmetic products have a short-term effect on superficial structures. A combination treatment (oral and topical) can be more effective in reducing the signs of skin-ageing.     

Unveiling the molecular basis of intrinsic skin aging(1)

The process of skin aging is a combination of an extrinsic and intrinsic aspect, and knowing the molecular changes underlying both is a prerequisite to being able to effectively counter it. However, despite its importance for a deeper understanding of skin aging as a whole, the process of intrinsic skin aging in particular has barely been investigated. In this study, the molecular changes of intrinsic skin aging were analyzed by applying 'Serial Analysis of Gene Expression' (SAGE(TM)) to skin biopsies of young and aged donors. The analysis resulted in several hundred differentially expressed genes with varying statistical significance. Of these, several genes were identified that either have never been described in skin aging before (e.g. APP) or have no identified function, e.g. EST sequences. This is the first time that intrinsic skin aging has been analyzed in such a comprehensive manner, offering a new and partially unexpected set of target genes that have to be analyzed in more detail in terms of their contribution to the skin aging process.     

Predicting skin penetration of actives from complex cosmetic formulations: an evaluation of inter formulation and inter active effects during formulation optimization for transdermal delivery

Twenty products, containing a radiolabelled form of each active in typical cosmetic formulations, were made and applied to female human epidermal membranes mounted in Franz diffusion cells for 48 h under ‘in use’ conditions. The products consisted of combinations of five formulations (a hydro‐alcoholic gel, an oil in water emulsion, a water in oil emulsion, a microemulsion and an oil) with four model drug actives (testosterone, hydrocortisone, 5‐fluorouracil and ketoconazole). Steady‐state flux appeared to be reached by 8 h and maintained for all products, other than for the microemulsions, consistent with the actives being present in the residual formulation on the skin at saturation. The recovery for each active at the end of the 48‐h study (from a series of stratum corneum tape strips, the remaining skin, cumulative amount penetrating into the receptor solution, product washed from the skin and on the donor chamber cap) ranged from 86.5% to 100.6%. The rank order of the fluxes for the actives from the hydro‐alcoholic gel is consistent with the known active molecular size and polarity determinants for maximum epidermal flux. Actives with similar steady‐state (maximum) fluxes from a range of formulations had retention in the stratum corneum and similar transport rate constants through the stratum corneum. The microemulsion formulation significantly enhanced both the stratum corneum steady‐state flux and transport rate constant for 5‐fluorouracil, hydrocortisone and testosterone. The penetration flux of each active could be related to its size and polarity and appeared maximal when the actives in the different cosmetic formulations applied to the skin under ‘in use’ conditions were likely to remain in the residual product on the skin as a saturated solution after solvent evaporation. Enhanced penetration fluxes can be achieved by formulation selection and an appropriate choice/mix of emollients/adjuvants. The principles described here provide a framework for understanding the delivery of cosmetic ingredients from various formulations.     

Relating rheological measurements to primary and secondary skin feeling when mineral‐based and Fischer–Tropsch wax‐based cosmetic emulsions and jellies are applied to the skin

Rheology measurements were correlated to skin sensations occurring when cream and petroleum jelly cosmetic products containing different amounts of synthetic Fischer–Tropsch wax were applied to the skin. A panel of 15 people with a background in cosmetic product development were asked to rate skin feelings when a range of petroleum jelly and cream samples are applied to the skin. Primary skin feel, or the spreadability of a cosmetic product, was correlated to the product's flow onset and maximum viscosity as measured by a Anton Paar rheometer, whereas secondary skin feel or the sensation occurring at the end of application when the product was completely rubbed into the skin was correlated to the product's viscosity measured at high shear rates. The cream samples prepared with a petroleum jelly containing 10% and 20% Fischer–Tropsch wax fell within the boundary of good primary skin feeling of cream products. Predominantly, synthetic petroleum jellies were given the best assessments in terms of primary skin feeling and were used with mineral‐based petroleum jellies to determine the boundary of good primary skin feeling for petroleum jelly products. The further away a product falls from this rheological boundary the poorer the skin feeling assessment appears to be by the panel. Products containing Fischer–Tropsch waxes were given the best assessment by the panel for secondary skin feeling. Comments from the panel include that these products feel silky and light on the skin. The higher the Fischer–Tropsch wax content, the lower viscosity was at high shear rate (? = 500 s^?1) and the higher the assessment by the panel. Rheological measurements can be used to objectively determine skin sensation when products are applied to the skin; this may shorten research and development times. A rheology boundary of certain product viscosity and shear stress applied is associated with good primary skin feeling for lotions, creams and petroleum jellies. Lower product viscosity at high shear rate seems to be associated with better secondary skin feeling. Products with higher Fischer–Tropsch wax content appear to be rated higher in terms of secondary skin feeling.     

Filaggrin – revisited

Profilaggrin (proFLG) and its processing products are critical to the health and appearance of skin. The recent identification of loss‐of‐function filaggrin (FLG) mutations as a predisposing factor in ichthyosis vulgaris and atopic dermatitis has lead to a resurgent interest in this enigmatic protein. Here, we review the literature on the structure and many functions of proFLG, from its role as a filament‐aggregating protein and a source of natural moisturizing factor (NMF), to the more recent discoveries of its role in epidermal barrier formation and its more speculative functions as an antimicrobial and sunscreen. Finally, we discuss the relationship of proFLG with dry skin, the influence of moisturizers on NMF generation and speculate on next generation of FLG research.     

Topically applied KTTKS: a review

Skin ageing is an irreversible process that is caused by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The possibility of arresting or delaying skin ageing represents a large research area and has a big potential in the cosmetics sector. Recently, the polypeptide lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine (KTTKS) has attracted a lot of attention and it features in numerous up-market cosmetic products where it has become erroneously associated with the term 'pentapeptide'. In this study, we review in detail KTTKS and its major derivatives, in terms of the limited information in the literature and an appraisal of its physicochemical and theoretical skin permeation properties. There appears to be a sound in vitro basis for its action on fibroblasts due to its stimulatory effect on extracellular matrix synthesis, where the stimulatory effect of KTTKS is specific to collagen types I and III and fibronectin expression. However, there is a surprising absence of in vitro skin penetration data in the literature, and there are relatively few clinical studies using these materials.     

Bioengineering and subjective approaches to the clinical evaluation of dry skin

Dry skin (also known as xerosis) is a cutaneous reaction pattern indicative of abnormal desquamation, which has not only cosmetic considerations, but can also lead to the penetration of irritants and allergens through the stratum corneum (SC). Over the last few decades, our understanding of the structure, composition, formation and function of the SC has advanced tremendously; however, despite these advancements, the occurrence of dry skin remains prevalent in the adult population. The clinical evaluation of dry skin is therefore of significant importance to the cosmetic industry not only for understanding the condition but also for measuring the effects of treatment. Traditionally, dry skin has been evaluated by visual inspection, however, recently a variety of bioengineering techniques have emerged enabling the investigator to objectively assess the extent of xerotic conditions. The most frequently employed methods for the evaluation of dry skin are discussed in this review, including regression testing, squametry, measurement of transepidermal water loss, epidermal hydration, profilometry, confocal Raman spectroscopy, optical coherence tomography, in vivo confocal microscopy and magnetic resonance imaging.