波浪辐射应力理论的应用和研究进展

回顾波浪辐射应力张量的概念，前人的研究成果表明微幅波的辐射应力理论是符合实际的．综述波浪辐射应力理论在海洋流体动力学中的应用，分析该理论在研究近岸流的形成、波浪增水和波浪减水、沿岸流流速的沿程分布、破波带内底部反向流的速度分布、河口海岸泥沙运动、海岸碎波拍和波流相互作用等问题中的应用．总结波浪辐射应力的研究进展，包括考虑有限振幅波和不规则波的辐射应力场以及微幅波辐射应力张量沿水深分布的研究，指出辐射应力张量沿水深分布的研究可以为探讨近岸水动力环境的垂直结构以及完善波流相互作用三维数学模型提供理论基础．为深入考察波浪辐射应力张量沿水深分布情况，提出进一步研究的思路．     

Wave Climate and Potential Longshore Sediment Transport Patterns,Nottawasaga Bay,Ontario

A storm wave climate for Nottawasaga Bay, Ontario, is hindcast, using the SMB technique, from wind records at Cove Island for the period 1966-1970. Thirteen wave classes, defined on the basis of significant wave height, period, and direction, are identified and these are used as inputs into a computer model of wave refraction within the bay. The total and longshore component of wave energy flux are determined for each wave class. The total annual energy flux P₁ and the net longshore component P₁ are determined for 55 points spaced at one kilometre intervals by multiplying the value of energy flux at each point by the mean annual frequency for that wave class and summing the values for all relevant waves. A simple model of potential erosion, transport, and deposition patterns within the bay is then developed from the variation in the net P₁ values. The predicted model is compared with geomorphological evidence of sediment transport patterns visible in vertical aerial photographs and with measurements of erosion and accretion at selected points. It is concluded that the continued eastward growth of the Wasaga spit results primarily from deposition of sediments from the Nottawasaga River rather than littoral transport.     

Measuring and modelling nearshore recovery of an eroded beach in Lake Michigan,USA

Erosion by storms and high-water levels impacts large enclosed basins; however there have been few attempts to numerically model cumulative impacts in large lakes. Antecedent morphology is a large determinant of coastal sensitivity to storms, so capturing the beach recovery is important for overall vulnerability assessment. To study beach recovery, we apply the numerical model XBeach to simulate a period of low to moderate wave energy when beach recovery typically occurs. Surveys were conducted one month apart during summer of 2020 on the west coast of Lake Michigan and used to initiate model runs and evaluate model performance. XBeach was used to propagate offshore wave conditions from a Great Lakes Coastal Forecasting System (GLCFS) node ～1 km offshore into the nearshore, and results were compared to measurements from a nearshore pressure sensor. We tested for the optimal value of the asymmetry/skewness parameter (facua) for model-data convergence. We evaluated model skill using a Mean Square Error Skill Score (MSESS) and a decomposition. In our repeat surveys we observed slight landward migration of longshore bars and the initiation of bar welding to the shoreline but, overall, changes in bathymetry were small. We found that XBeach transforms offshore waves well and sediment transport volume was accurately predicted by the model. However, XBeach did not capture the morphologic evolution under low energy conditions, preventing simulation of beach recovery. Overall, higher values of facua resulted in improved skill scores and modeled nearshore morphology that was more similar to the morphology measured in our surveys.     

Sedimentary in-filling of an urban Great Lakes waterfront embayment and implications for threshold-driven shoreline morphodynamics,Montrose Beach,SW Lake Michigan

This paper addresses subaqueous and subaerial patterns of geomorphic change across Montrose Beach, an urban embayment along Chicago’s engineered SW Lake Michigan coastline. Our goal was to better characterize the urban littoral zone, its sediment-transport processes, and associated shoreline morphodynamics (from the early 1950s to present). Succinct beach geomorphic responses to decadal base-level changes (i.e., regression during lake-level fall and transgression during lake-level rise) occurred once a morphologic threshold in the subaqueous portion of the system had been crossed. Despite continuous sand trapping, nearshore elevations were initially not conducive to promoting expansion of the subaerial beach environment, regardless of water-level condition. Rapid beach expansion after 1990 (by a factor of four in <25 years) was facilitated by prior decades of nearshore accretion. Shoreline morphodynamic trajectories and degree of coupling to nearshore sedimentary processes are important considerations for developing long-term beach-management strategies. Rapid cross-shore movements of the shoreline in response to oscillatory base levels are expected to persist at Montrose and other urban beaches of similar design (and nearshore conditions). This has important implications for managing urban lakefront ecosystems, including coastal dunes and shore-bird habitats. Few datasets have thus far quantified time-variant and threshold-driven patterns of beach geomorphic development along engineered coastlines. Such insights should help coastal managers better understand littoral sediment interconnectivity across the urban lakefront and anticipate future geomorphic trajectories of beach environments with anticipated decadal-scale oscillatory patterns in lake level.     

不规则波辐射应力的精确解与近似解

波浪辐射应力是波生沿岸流乃至近岸流的主要驱动力。波浪辐射应力的计算将直接关系到沿岸流的大小及其水动力特性。不规则波相对规则波更能反应实际海洋中的波浪运动,因此不规则波作用下辐射应力的计算将更能体现实际沿岸流中的波浪驱动力。通过推导给出不规则波辐射应力计算的精确解与近似解,并对两种计算方法进行了分析比较,在此基础上进一步用波生沿岸流试验结果对近似计算方法中的波能计算进行了验证。结果表明窄谱情况下,不规则波辐射应力的近似计算方法已有较好的精度,可节省大量的计算时间,从而提高计算效率,但精确计算方法更能准确反应各时刻各位置辐射应力的波动状况。     

波流共同作用下细沙粉沙质海岸复合沿岸输沙率计算

应用能量原理建立波浪作用下沿岸输沙率公式时,通常采用波浪的“载沙量”与沿岸流的乘积推导而得.对于一般的沙质海岸,由于岸滩坡度较陡,波浪破碎带较窄,破波带内潮流流速与破波产生的沿岸流相比较小,常可忽略.而对于细沙粉沙质海岸,岸滩坡度相对较缓,风暴潮期间,近岸波浪较大,破波水深较深,破波带较宽,近岸潮流流速也较大.因此,细沙粉沙质海岸风暴潮期间波浪和潮流共同作用下的复合沿岸输沙率计算应当考虑波浪和潮流的共同作用.在以往波浪作用下沙质海岸沿岸输沙率研究的基础上,通过波浪潮流共同作用下近岸水流特性和沿岸输沙率特性港池试验研究,得出了波流共同作用下复合沿岸流计算公式,据此,将能量输沙原理导出的沿岸输沙率计算公式推广应用到波流共同作用下的复合沿岸输沙率计算,经与模型试验结果和现场实测资料对比,吻合良好.该公式可以有条件地推广应用到细沙粉沙质海岸波浪潮流共同作用下复合沿岸输沙率计算.     

Large-scale 3D numerical modelling of flood propagation and sediment transport and operational strategy in the Three Gorges Reservoir,China

Sediment deposition carried by flood flow is the main cause of reservoir sedimentation. This can be reduced by an appropriate operational strategy of flood flow and sediment in the reservoir. High-precision and large-scale hydrodynamic models to predict flood propagation and sediment transport in reservoirs are extremely important for an efficient flood forecasting and real-time joint regulation of water and sediment in reservoirs. In the present study, the three-dimensional (3D) numerical semi-implicit cross-scale hydroscience integrated system model (SCHISM) was adopted to model the flood propagation and sediment transport in the approximately 280-km-long reach in the Three Gorges Reservoir. This model is mainly focused on analysing the asynchronous movement characteristics of flood propagation and sediment transport and the operational strategy of sediment peak regulation. The flood event in July 2013 was reproduced by the numerical model, which was validated by a comparison with the measured data. The results indicated that the numerical model has the ability to accurately simulate the flood propagation and sediment transport processes. The time that the sediment peak lags behind the flow discharge peak increases as the flood waves propagate downstream, reaching 8.1 days at the dam site. During the rising period of the flood, the discharged flow is lowered to reduce the flood peak, and when the sediment peak reaches the dam, the discharged flow is increased to release high concentration sediment during the flood recession period so as to reduce sedimentation in the reservoir. The model results agreed well with the measured results. The 3D numerical model can be used for the real-time prediction of the arrival time of the flow discharge and sediment peaks for the joint regulation of water and sediment in the Three Gorges Reservoir.     

Developing and monitoring an innovative NNBF to nourish a bay bar: An example from the southeast shore of Lake Ontario

This project tests a cost-effective, innovative dredged sediment placement technique targeted to nourish an eroded barrier bar. The dredged sediment was placed in the nearshore in a Cobble Bell, a form designed to allow for efficient dispersal and migration of sediment by natural processes in this location (such as predominant waves and longshore transport) in a desired direction along the bar. We describe the regional and site assessment undertaken, and explain the way design parameters including technical feasibility, assumptions about wave climate, and constructability were accounted for. A monitoring protocol was designed and implemented to measure the vertical and horizontal accretion on the barrier bar. This included survey transects using RTK equipment and surface analysis of beach volume and morphology change via drone images and photogrammetry. Field measurements of the bar indicated that within the first few days, the piled material eroded rapidly, and over the next few months, migrated downshore, widening the previously breached area. This suggests that the cobble bell nature-based feature has the potential to both accelerate and slow down natural processes in ways that enhance the performance and attractiveness of the beach while minimizing costs. In addition to the monitoring results, we describe a monitoring protocol that is both simple and effective which can be adapted by local entities interested in the management of their coastal landscapes.     

A field study of nearshore environmental changes in response to newly-built coastal structures in Lake Michigan

In this study, we monitored changes of cohesive nearshore environment including bluff and lake bottom/bed response to newly-built coastal structures with a thousand-meter-long revetment in Lake Michigan shoreline over a six-year study period. Sequential aerial photos showed that excessive slumping occurred only on the south bluffs and no bluff recession in the middle areas with coastal structures. Field measurements using our recently developed integrated geophysical techniques provided information on bathymetry, sand layer thickness, and lakebed downcutting over the nearshore reach of Concordia University in Lake Michigan. During the study period, the bathymetry profiles at the study site fluctuated dynamically, especially in the regions outside the shoreline structures, suggesting continuous and ongoing sediment erosion and deposition. The lakebed downcutting in front of the newly-built coastal structures is correlated with CWIH (cumulative wave impact height). Significant differences of lakebed downcutting in the north and south natural beach regions were revealed and may be associated with the nearshore sediment budget. The southwardly dominant longshore current maintains the equilibrium state of beach profiles in the north region, but the coastal structures prevent sediment supply from the well-protected bluffs in the middle region to the south region. The possible source of sediment supply in the south region is therefore from lakebed or bluff materials, supported by excessive bluff failures and lakebed downcutting. Overall the newly-built coastal structures seem to pose negative impacts on bluff stability at the south shore of the coastal structures.     

Changes in the hydrology and sediment transport produced by large dams on the lower Ebro river and its estuary

The mean annual flow of the lower Ebro river has reduced by 29% during this century (592 to 426 m³ s⁻¹). The main causes are increased water use and evaporation from reservoirs in the river basin. The losses due to irrigation explain 74% of the decrease, whereas losses by evaporation in the reservoirs explain another 22%. Decreased flow in the lower Ebro river caused an increase in the salt wedge in the estuary. During the study period, the permanent low river flows from July 1988 to April 1990 caused the continuous presence of the salt wedge for 18 months. Historical data for sediment transport in the Ebro river are scarce and incomplete. Limited data before the construction of reservoirs in the Ebro basin allow only an estimate of the order of magnitude of annual suspended sediment transport (3·0 × 10⁷ Mt yr⁻¹). Before the construction of large reservoirs in the lower Ebro at the end of the 1960s, the sediment transport was estimated to be around 1·0 × 10⁷ Mt yr⁻¹. This amount was reduced to around 0·3 × 10⁶ Mt yr⁻¹ after construction of the dam. Currently, this amount ranges from 0·1 to 0·2 × 10⁶ Mt yr⁻¹, which represents a reduction of more than 99% in sediment transport. On a seasonal scale, the effects of the dams have been the standardization of the river flow and the virtual suppression of peaks in sediment transport. In the estuary, the salt wedge dynamics changed and its presence increased. River regulation and hydropower generation also changed the hydrology of the river on a daily scale. The effect of local storms on the river flow and the sediment transport has been suppressed. At present, these changes are related to hydropower generation.     

毛里塔尼亚友谊港岸线演变及防护工程

毛里塔尼亚友谊港所处海域为典型沙质海岸,面向大西洋,波浪作用下自北向南的沿岸输沙是其主要泥沙运动方式。该海岸泥沙中值粒径0.25 mm,年平均输沙约100万m~3。因为港口建设拦截了沿岸输沙,原本平直海岸线形成了港口北侧淤积和南侧冲刷的岸线形态。为保护堆场免受侵蚀,港口南侧于1991年建成了南挑丁坝,至2009年其南侧岸线已后退至根部,再度危及堆场和陆地设施安全。根据实测岸线资料,采用一线理论岸线演变数学模型,对港口南侧海岸不同防护方案进行了计算。结果显示,现有南挑丁坝与其南侧续建的T型丁坝之间岸线能很快调整至稳定状态,可对该岸段陆地设施起到保护作用。在现有丁坝南侧2 000 m处新建T型丁坝,平行于岸线的横头部分置于-2 m等深线,作为港口南侧岸线防护的推荐方案。沿岸输沙未得到补给的情况下,新的岸线防护工程在稳定上游岸线的同时,下游岸线的冲刷后退不可避免。考虑较长期限和更大范围的岸线稳定,还需采取每隔一定年限新建防护工程的措施。     

Reduced sediment export to the Pennsylvania Lake Erie littoral zone during an era of average lake levels

This paper analyzes high-resolution lidar data to estimate sediment export to the Pennsylvania Lake Erie littoral zone from lakefront bluff retreat under relatively unique lake-level conditions: approximately a decade of average lake level transitioning into a mild transgression. Analysis identifies bluff-failure patterns important to coastal hazard planning, possible feeder-bluff conservation areas to preserve sediment supply, and data pertinent to sand management in the western Erie County littoral cell (WECLC) and at Presque Isle State Park in the next-downdrift cell.Based on 2007–2015 bluff-face mapping, there were net losses of 318,250 m³ of total-sediment and 105,700 m³ of sand+ (sand-boulders) to the littoral zone. On an average annual basis, bluffs thus exported 39,800 m³ of total-sediment and 13,300 m³ of sand+ to the WECLC. Exports of sand+ by six HUC-12 watersheds ranged from ~0 to 4600 m³/yr, with ~ 30% supplied by Crooked Creek watershed bluffs that occupy only 18% of the coast. Sand+ export volumes reported here were ~65% lower than prior research covering different lake-level phases. Understanding sediment export during periods of average lake level is important because such lake-level phases occur in the record and will likely recur. Incorporating a decade-scale low sediment-supply scenario for sand management in the Presque Isle littoral cell would permit fine-tuning of estimates of sand nourishment needed to mitigate ongoing beach erosion. Uncertainty in bluff-face change can be minimized by expanding data-comparison windows; future tracking of sediment export from Pennsylvania bluffs may not need lidar surveys any more frequently than once every 10–15 years.     

The role of wind-wave related processes in redistributing river-derived terrigenous sediments in Lake Turkana: A modelling study

A complete annual cycle of the dynamics of fine-grained sediment supplied by the Omo and smaller rivers is simulated for Lake Turkana, one of the world’s large lakes, with the hydrodynamic, wave and sediment transport model Delft3D. The model is forced with river liquid and solid discharge and wind data in order to simulate cohesive sediment transport and resuspension. It simulates stratification due to salinity, wave generation and dissipation, and sediment advection and resuspension by waves and currents, with multiple cohesive sediment fractions. A comparison of the simulation results with remotely-sensed imagery and with available in-situ sediment deposition rates validates the model. By devising simulation scenarios in which certain processes were switched on or off, we investigated the contribution of waves, wind-induced surface and bottom currents, salinity-induced stratification and river jet, in resuspending and transporting fine sediments in the lake basin. With only the wind or river influence, most of the sediment deposition occurs in the first 10 km off the Omo River mouth and at a depth < 10 m. When waves are switched on, increased bed shear stresses resuspend most of the fine sediments, that are then deposited further and deeper in the first 30 km, in water depths > 30 m. This study sheds new light on sediment transport in Lake Turkana and in great lakes in general, favouring the view that wind-waves can be the main agent that transports sediment away from river mouths and to deeper areas, as opposed to river-plume or gravity-driven transport.     

Sediment TMDL Development for the Amite River

The Amite River is recognized as one of the 15 water bodies impaired by sediments in Louisiana, USA. Based on US EPA’s Protocol sediment TMDL (Total Maximum Daily Load) development is conducted for the Amite River and described in this paper. The TMDL development consists of four components: (1) development of a new model for cohesive sediment transport, (2) estimation of sediment loads (sources) due to watershed erosion, (3) river flow computation, and (4) determination of sediment TMDL for the Amite River. Using the mass conservation principle and Reynolds transport theorem a new 1-D model has been developed for computation of suspended cohesive sediment transport. Sediment erosion in the Amite River Basin is calculated by combining the USLE (Universal Soil Loss Equation) model with GIS and the digital elevation model of the Amite River Basin. Digital elevation data was imported into the GIS which generated inputs for USLE. The calculated average annual rate of soil erosion in the Amite River Basin is 13.368 tons per ha, producing a nonpoint sediment load of 103 mg/L to the Amite River. The flow computation is performed using the HEC-RAS software. The computed sediment concentration in the Amite River varies in the range of 3–114 mg/L and sediment TMDL is 281.219 tons/day. The reduction necessary to support beneficial uses of the river is 55% or 275.946 tons/day. Results indicate that the combined application of the new 1-D sediment transport model, GIS, USLE model, and HEC-RAS is an efficient and effective approach to sediment TMDL development.     

海南岛西南岸沿岸输沙特性及防波堤影响

通过海南岛西南岸东方海洋观测站波浪观测资料验证,建立八所海域波浪数学模型,计算确定八所新港沿岸水域各向破波要素。采用3种沿岸输沙率计算公式,确定海南岛西南岸八所新港周边海岸沿岸输沙率。分别探讨风浪、涌浪对海南岛八所新港沿岸输沙率的贡献,对比分析防波堤工程建设前后八所新港及附近沿岸输沙率特征。研究表明,海南岛西南岸向北的沿岸输沙能力大于向南的;风浪、涌浪对八所新港附近海岸沿岸输沙能力的贡献率与其出现的频率略有区别;八所新港建港后南北两侧出现淤积且南侧淤积强度大于北侧;防波堤长度的增加对沿岸输沙能力影响的范围和强度有所增大。     

波浪边界层中细颗粒粘性泥沙的再悬浮和扩散输移

本文用多尺度摄动方法从理论上推导了波浪边界中细颗粒粘性泥沙的再悬浮和扩散输移的规律，并用几个算例细致地分析了波浪对细颗粒经沙再悬浮和扩散输移的作用。指出：在近 岸及湖泊地位、波浪不仅是细颗粒粘性泥沙再悬浮的主要动力，而且其引起的泥沙扩散输称我工和风生流相当。     

Calculation of the suspended load in rivers and canals

Conclusion The investigations made it possible to propose a combined method of calculating turbidity-corresponding to the transport capacity of the flow. At first for the period of water discharge being considered the turbidity corresponding to it is determined with respect to the regional annual distribution of the sediment discharge. Then on the basis of the value of the turbidity obtained the limit of application of Eq. (6) is selected and the transport capacity of the flow is calculated with respect to it.Translated from Gidrotekhnicheskoe Stroitel'stvo, No. 1, pp. 30–34, January, 1987.     

波、流共同作用下的近底泥沙输移及航道骤淤预报

波、流(包括潮流和风吹流)共同作用下的输沙机理是波浪轨道速度掀沙与挟沙，波浪传质速度、潮流速度和风吹流的合成速度输沙。根据波动水流能量及泥沙运动原理，参考窦国仁推导底沙输沙率的方法，推导出波浪、潮流和风吹流共同作用下的底沙输沙率公式。对于细颗粒泥沙，底沙输沙实质上是近底泥沙(包括浮泥)的输移；应用本文公式对大风期黄骅港外航道的骤淤进行验证计算，得到与天然较符合的结果。另外，根据近年的实践，改进以前的浮泥输沙公式，给出二种输沙的计算模式。本文是作者1987年以来研究此问题的总结。     

Impacts of wind waves on sediment transport in a large,shallow lake

Lake Okeechobee is a large, shallow subtropical lake, located in south Florida. Over the last several decades, Lake Okeechobee has experienced accelerated eutrophication due to excessive phosphorus loads from agricultural run‐off. Recycling of phosphorus from bottom sediments through resuspension is critical to addressing eutrophication of the lake and for water quality management. The present study investigates the impacts of wind waves on sediment transport in Lake Okeechobee, using measured data and the Lake Okeechobee Environmental Model (LOEM). The LOEM was fully calibrated and verified with more than 10 years of measured data in previous studies. Analysis of the measured data indicates significant wave height (SWH) and suspended sediment concentration are closely correlated to the wind speed in the lake. The nonlinear interaction of high‐frequency wind waves with relatively low‐frequency currents in the boundary layer plays a key role in sediment deposition/resuspension. Without considering the effects of wind waves, the bottom shear stress can be greatly underestimated. The spatial variations of key variables for sediment modelling, including SWH, water depth, orbital velocity, current velocity, bottom shear stress and sediment concentration, are discussed. In general, the near‐bottom wave velocity (and the associated bottom shear stress) is greater than or the same order of magnitude as the near‐bed current velocity (and the associated bottom shear stress) in this shallow water system. Although the sediment zones of Lake Okeechobee were described in previous studies, few published papers discussed its formation mechanisms. The findings of the present study include that the multiyear averaged bottom shear stress with wind‐wave effect plays a key role in forming the spatial patterns of the sediment zones. The study results are currently being used in lake management and in developing strategies for reducing phosphorus in the lake.     

波浪潮流共同作用下长兴岛海区二维悬沙输运数值模拟研究

根据近岸地区波浪、潮流与泥沙运动的规律,把波浪运动概化为在潮周期中具有时均意义的波浪流分布场,将波浪辐射应力以及波流底部剪切应力耦合到潮流运动方程和悬沙输运方程中,建立了非结构网格下近岸波浪和潮流共同作用下的二维悬沙输运数值模型。时间离散采用欧拉向前格式,空间离散采用有限体积法的显式格式。将模型应用于矩形海湾实验和大连长兴岛附近海区悬沙冲淤过程的实际算例。结果表明:波浪对潮位影响很小,但是对近岸流速有较为明显的影响;波流共同作用对近岸泥沙浓度影响比单纯考虑潮流作用可提高40%～100%的幅度。